Turning rotors- a little info I found
Turning rotors- a little info I found
Well, I tried searching for info on turning rotors (I was unfamiliar with the concept), but even for donors the search was not working. I hit Google instead, and this is what I found:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrotors.htm
From http://www.davefancella.com/index.ph...tors+and+Drums :
I posted this as a resource. If anyone has any more information, please feel free to post it here.
http://www.team3s.com/FAQrotors.htm
From http://www.davefancella.com/index.ph...tors+and+Drums :
Turning Metal
Turning rotors and drums is just the act of shaving the outer layer of metal on the actual friction surface. This requires an expensive brake lathe and is usually beyond the scope of a home mechanics resources. Luckily, most auto parts stores will gladly turn your rotors and drums.
But should you get them turned?
The Great Debate on Rotor Turning
First, let's examine why we turn rotors. A good brake technician will tell you that we turn rotors so they'll be perfectly vertical against the brake pads. This same good brake technician will also tell you that if the rotor is warped (noticed through a pulsating brake pedal) then it is bad and *must* be replaced. So if my rotor's not warped, then it's already perfectly vertical against the brake pads, right? Then why should I turn the rotor? The good brake technician can't answer that question.
The great brake technician can. He'll tell you that cutting the rotor makes a raw surface available for the new pads, will cause the new pads to generate a bit more heat and will help them to seat properly against the rotor. In the long run this will actually increase the total miles you get out of the brake job. He'll also generally refer to 'turning' the rotor instead as 'resurfacing'. It's important to remember that turning the rotor is actually 'resurfacing the rotor'. You're putting a new surface on the rotor, that's what you're doing.
So should I turn my rotors when I change the pads?
I say 'not usually'. I also say 'sometimes turning the rotor causes more problems than it's trying to solve'. Consider that each time you turn the rotor it gets thinner. Thinner rotors warp easier than thicker rotors, and most people actually drive their cars a little wrong with regard to their brakes, so you want as much metal as possible on your rotor. If you want a more abrasive surface for your pads to seat against, using a heavy grit sandpaper on the surface of the rotor will provide that. Just sand it 'till it's shiny and go with it. Keeping in mind always that resurfacing the rotor is the *best* thing you can do. In fact, if you have the money to do it, go ahead and take your rotors down and get them turned. It's really the 'right way' to do it. I don't, though, because I have a great deal of experience to back up my decision here. Unless you have similar experience to back up that decision for yourself, I really do think you should get them turned instead of taking any chances. The quality of your brake job is going to directly affect the safety of your vehicle, so don't cut corners.
Turning rotors and drums is just the act of shaving the outer layer of metal on the actual friction surface. This requires an expensive brake lathe and is usually beyond the scope of a home mechanics resources. Luckily, most auto parts stores will gladly turn your rotors and drums.
But should you get them turned?
The Great Debate on Rotor Turning
First, let's examine why we turn rotors. A good brake technician will tell you that we turn rotors so they'll be perfectly vertical against the brake pads. This same good brake technician will also tell you that if the rotor is warped (noticed through a pulsating brake pedal) then it is bad and *must* be replaced. So if my rotor's not warped, then it's already perfectly vertical against the brake pads, right? Then why should I turn the rotor? The good brake technician can't answer that question.
The great brake technician can. He'll tell you that cutting the rotor makes a raw surface available for the new pads, will cause the new pads to generate a bit more heat and will help them to seat properly against the rotor. In the long run this will actually increase the total miles you get out of the brake job. He'll also generally refer to 'turning' the rotor instead as 'resurfacing'. It's important to remember that turning the rotor is actually 'resurfacing the rotor'. You're putting a new surface on the rotor, that's what you're doing.
So should I turn my rotors when I change the pads?
I say 'not usually'. I also say 'sometimes turning the rotor causes more problems than it's trying to solve'. Consider that each time you turn the rotor it gets thinner. Thinner rotors warp easier than thicker rotors, and most people actually drive their cars a little wrong with regard to their brakes, so you want as much metal as possible on your rotor. If you want a more abrasive surface for your pads to seat against, using a heavy grit sandpaper on the surface of the rotor will provide that. Just sand it 'till it's shiny and go with it. Keeping in mind always that resurfacing the rotor is the *best* thing you can do. In fact, if you have the money to do it, go ahead and take your rotors down and get them turned. It's really the 'right way' to do it. I don't, though, because I have a great deal of experience to back up my decision here. Unless you have similar experience to back up that decision for yourself, I really do think you should get them turned instead of taking any chances. The quality of your brake job is going to directly affect the safety of your vehicle, so don't cut corners.
personally, i have never taken my rotors to get turned when i change my brake pads. like it is stated more often than not it will cause more trouble than its worth.
i like to save as much of the rotor as possible since i do some mild to heavy braking on occasion.
to me its not worth the time and money to get the rotors turned everytime i change the pads.
--Paul
i like to save as much of the rotor as possible since i do some mild to heavy braking on occasion.
to me its not worth the time and money to get the rotors turned everytime i change the pads.
--Paul
Alot depends on how much material the tech wants to take off. If the rotors are in good shape, then just .002"-.003" is a good idea. If the rotors are really warped and it will take .02" to get an even surface then I would just replace them. Any good shop will know the specs of the discard amount and will know when to replace, turn, or just leave them alone.
There are also situations of pitting and grooving of the rotor that come into play.
There are also situations of pitting and grooving of the rotor that come into play.
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Alot depends on how much material the tech wants to take off. If the rotors are in good shape, then just .002"-.003" is a good idea. If the rotors are really warped and it will take .02" to get an even surface then I would just replace them. Any good shop will know the specs of the discard amount and will know when to replace, turn, or just leave them alone.
There are also situations of pitting and grooving of the rotor that come into play.
There are also situations of pitting and grooving of the rotor that come into play.
Any thoughts, guys?
For the money your paying to turn rotors you could buy a set of cheapo rotors at any auto parts store... in reality they're not the best and will probably warp anyway.
I just get Brembo blanks... for the price you cant go wrong and you really dont have to worry about warping as long as you break them in right and every time you change the pads.
Bendix and Wagner are good stuff too that isnt too expensive... most of their stuff is made here in the USA unlike the cheapo overseas stuff.
I just get Brembo blanks... for the price you cant go wrong and you really dont have to worry about warping as long as you break them in right and every time you change the pads.
Bendix and Wagner are good stuff too that isnt too expensive... most of their stuff is made here in the USA unlike the cheapo overseas stuff.
Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
For the money your paying to turn rotors you could buy a set of cheapo rotors at any auto parts store... in reality they're not the best and will probably warp anyway.
I just get Brembo blanks... for the price you cant go wrong and you really dont have to worry about warping as long as you break them in right and every time you change the pads.
Bendix and Wagner are good stuff too that isnt too expensive... most of their stuff is made here in the USA unlike the cheapo overseas stuff.
I just get Brembo blanks... for the price you cant go wrong and you really dont have to worry about warping as long as you break them in right and every time you change the pads.
Bendix and Wagner are good stuff too that isnt too expensive... most of their stuff is made here in the USA unlike the cheapo overseas stuff.
Originally Posted by schernov
It costs $9/rotor to turn them...I say keep turning them untill they are too thin, then get new ones.
You have alot of room on the stock rotors too if they havent been turned by the previous owner(s).
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,594
You'll never find a consensus on this. I've heard from mechanics and pros in the for and against reasons not to do it or to do it. Personally for my 4th gen max, rotors are cheap enough new that I'd not bother with the $15 turning cost. But, with my 00 they cost at least $40/pop. When I did my fronts 4k miles ago I got them turned. They're still good, but I don't know how long they'll last, so I guess I'll find out eventually.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 747
Turning or resurfacing rotors is not required unless they are warped. What I usually do is use a piece of red scotchbrite to cut the old glaze off of the rotors before I install new pads. If you do not remove the glaze it can ruin (glaze) your brand new pad's and seriously decrease the stopping ability. So it is always a good idea to cut the glaze somehow. That is the #1 reason pretty much every brake repair shop I have been to will turn the rotor's even if it's not needed. To protect the new pad's and keep the customer's from coming back with complaint's about squeeky brakes, lack of braking ability or god forbid a accident cause because of brake failure.
Now my opinion on rotors very's slightly because I have used both OEM & Brembo rotor's. I did notice a significant increase in braking when I installed the Brembo's due to the fact that the have some way for the gases created from braking to dissapate. So I did feel a difference there, but the OEM rotor's are very good quality part's and offer alittle more reliability (less squeeks & such). Brembo's require more attention because if you do not break them in as instructed they will eventually warp. If you do not make certain that each lug nut is torqued exactly the same (85ftlbs.) they will eventually warp. If they get to warm & cool off to fast they will warp just like any other rotor. Now with the OEM rotor i feel you can have the same advantages of the Brembo rotors by simply cutting a pattern in the face of the rotor with the resurfacing machine. If you set the cutting bit to dig in slightly & start from the bottom of the braking surface area (closes to the stud holes) & quickly move towards to outside of the rotor you can cut a groove that will allow the gases to escape quicker. Think of it as your own custom slotted rotor. Then you will have the reliability of a OEM rotor & the advantages of a performance rotor. Big brake kit's are a completely different animal. Nobody can argue with the improvement's, so well just keep this conversation to stock diameter rotor's.
Now my opinion on rotors very's slightly because I have used both OEM & Brembo rotor's. I did notice a significant increase in braking when I installed the Brembo's due to the fact that the have some way for the gases created from braking to dissapate. So I did feel a difference there, but the OEM rotor's are very good quality part's and offer alittle more reliability (less squeeks & such). Brembo's require more attention because if you do not break them in as instructed they will eventually warp. If you do not make certain that each lug nut is torqued exactly the same (85ftlbs.) they will eventually warp. If they get to warm & cool off to fast they will warp just like any other rotor. Now with the OEM rotor i feel you can have the same advantages of the Brembo rotors by simply cutting a pattern in the face of the rotor with the resurfacing machine. If you set the cutting bit to dig in slightly & start from the bottom of the braking surface area (closes to the stud holes) & quickly move towards to outside of the rotor you can cut a groove that will allow the gases to escape quicker. Think of it as your own custom slotted rotor. Then you will have the reliability of a OEM rotor & the advantages of a performance rotor. Big brake kit's are a completely different animal. Nobody can argue with the improvement's, so well just keep this conversation to stock diameter rotor's.
Originally Posted by spirilis
"cheapo overseas stuff" ... like what, specifically? (just curious)
Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
As in the rotors usually given to you when you go to an auto parts store. Most of them are made out in China from cheap metal. Those rotors tend to warp pretty easily.
Originally Posted by spirilis
Do you have a pic of one of these (with the "MADE IN CHINA" stamp on it)? Just curious... not to mention, I wonder what companies actually make these (maybe asking the parts store could reveal that...)
But most of the time they say where they're made on the box. I used to work at an auto parts store for about a year... Some rotors dont say where they're made on the rotor itself just the box.
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