I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Finally got the car to the dyno. Looks like I got some problems to figure out.
First run my MEVI did not open. Zip tied it open on the second run.

With MEVI closed 182tq @ 4.5K and 171hp @ 5.2K

MEVI open the whole run 168tq @5.1K and 172hp @ 6K

I have a couple issues. First is my VI not opening. Second is the low #'s. Third I don't like how my HP curve drops off, I am still losing 20hp from peak to redline.

This sucks to say the least. Here is the graph. I will try and host it somewhere better when I can. So where should I start?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...miked/dyno.jpg

**edit**

Mods

Cattman headers
MEVI
JWT ECU
Pathfinder throttle body
short ram intake
Fidanza flywheel

96 I30t 5spd. Runs done in 4th gear.

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

Was the new motor in good shape??

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

That's very strange if the MEVI lost that much power even zip tied. Whats your rev limit? You say peak to redline, is that from your max hp, 6k to redline, 6.5k? Or your JWT redline?

Where to begin is the question....
I'm sure you pulled codes, but anything different from the norm there?
The VI not opering, I had this problem too, even with the Summit. Would work at rest, but not under load at all. Believe it or not I played around with the locations of my solenoid/ canister and my vacuum piping and it has been working 90% of the time.

One of the best things to do with this problem, is watch it, by wiring an in dash LED to the valve that controls the butterflies so you can see when it's actually opened/closed via the LED.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Damn Mike, that sucks. I can't see your dyno for some reason. Does the new engine feel as strong as the last one? Since on your old engine you ran very good times, my guess is that something might be not working properly on the new engine. The car must feel very sluggish. Was it not obvious during regular driving that the VI wasn't opening?

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Car feels very strong , but no I have not done a compression test on it.

Here is speedemn's MEVI/JWT ECU dyno. This is how it should look.

http://69.193.109.74/car/jwtecudyno.jpg



I am losing 20hp at the top end even with my MEVI open!!!!!

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Is the image link no working for you guys? I will host it elsewhere later.

With the VI open, I loose 20hp from 6K-7K. Uhhhh....I am at a loss on this one.

I am doing the LED indicator tomorrow morning. But gettin my VI working seems like the least of my problems.

Like I said, car feel strong. I am supposed to go to the track tomorrow night...I still plan to go just to see if maybe the dyno is wrong, but I don't think that is the problem.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Knock sensor? Hook up one of those obd II scanners/monitors and see what the ign/o2 etc is doing.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

That is one theory of mine. Maybe my ECU is pulling timing? I don't have a scanner, but I know local guys who do.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

If I had a 4 gen I'd have one of these Palm or labtop versions as std equipment. Invaluable for tuning/diagnostics. I have a thread about it in the 4-gen section. I might get one for the Palm for the wife's RX300

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

What size catback and muffler are you running, Mike?

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

jeff how much can one expect to pay for such a setup? i've been tossing that idea around in my head for a while now but haven't looked at the purchase price of both a palm that can handle it, and whatever program is required (i know lots about computers but nothing about palms). i know DSM people use DSMLink religiously and i think that is the same sort of thing?

anyways mike when you get home from class or whatever email me the picture at n i want to see it and also i will host it for you on my cardomain. i particularly want to see how the drop in hp close to your rev limiter correlates with the air fuel ratio which you said was already on the lean side, at like 14:1 up close to the rev limiter.

and to the guy who asked, if he didnt already answer he has a jwt 7200rpm limiter and thats what he meant when he said redline.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

See in this thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=332205
The amount of info is amazing. I'm surprised all you modded 4-gen guys don't have these things. Codes/clear codes/diagnotics/real time sensor monitoring/the pc versions can view 4 sensors graphs at once??

I've been eyeing the Palm version of the Auterra. Since the wife has the tungsten and I have an old M100. Ebay has them for about $140-ish? I think that guy's reserve is like $130 or something. Just comes with the cables and software. Actually I wonder if someone could burn me the disc and I wonder if I could get the cables somewhere else?

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

He's got stock catback and muffler.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

The stock muffler will choke you at high rpm. I measured 17 psi of exhaust backpressure at 7000 rpm with a stock muffler, and a 7 psi decrease in back pressure going from stock to Apexi WS. That's pretty significant, although Mike won't see that much backpressure being NA.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

neal, email sent

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Now that I see that Dyno, holy crap, thats not good losing that HP w/ MEVI working, looks like a USIM dyno almost, minus the fact that the tq is real low due in the low-mid rangeto the Vi being open all the way. I'll agrew with the others of course, get some readings from timing and such, also, if you know anyone around you with a good K.S, do a swap test with it in case you're not able to get your hands on the palm pilot diag. setup anytime soon.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

See how the power drops at the same time my AF goes to 14...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Hmm, try your stock ECU. Need reading for the O2 aand compare the 2, but this is all a lot of work for you.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Hmm ususally if the ks is fubaring, the hp/torque curves are jagged.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

he doesn't own a stock ecu he used mine while jwt had his.

MAXimumHP

iTrader: (7)

Gotta do a compression check, it's really easy. That way you can rule out most of the internal components right away, or find you have a compression problem real easy. Your torque curve sweeps way too low towards redline, but looks reasonable early in the range. Seems like you're not getting enough air like a restriction or something... Even if you did add a little fuel you wont recover that big of loss IMO.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I'd gues KS.

I'd also *guess* compression is good, since you made 182 WTQ.

If you made that with a bad clyinder.. WOW

What about codes, did you get a cylinder misfire?

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

It can only be fuel, air, timing.fuel filter, spark plugs, coil pack, deathly dirty air filter, knock sensor pulling timing, vacuum leak, MAF meter.
I would change the cheap and easy things (if needed). plugs, air filter, fuel filter. You can check the voltage of your MAF to see if it is functioning correctly. You can use a resistor to bypass the knock sensor and see if it is pulling timing. You can check your coil packs to see if one is misfiring or not working correctly.

It could be a bad dyno also. You should have been around 190-200whp on your old engine. Surely your butt dyno could pick up on a 20-30whp loss. Does the power feel like it really drops off as fast as the dyno looks like? My guess would be pulled timing by the knock sensor, or other.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

clean your throttle body

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

oh yeah, I forgot to add that too. Clean your throttle body, get a hyper-grounding kit, and polish your intake manifold by putting sand in the intake while the car is running.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear your troubles Mike but we have to see what the hell is going on with this Summit Switch.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

That really sucks Mike. Sorry for your trouble. I don't have an answer but I've got some time Sun or Mon if you need. My Gtech, Auterra & Palm, and both stock and G-force ECU are available if you need.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

I was just about to send you a PM

I actually have this whole weekend off work and would very much like to get together for a couple hours. Sun, Mon....whatever is good for you. check your pm's. Your the man!

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I have calmed down a bit from yesterday.....I kinda flew off the handle for a little while. Not that it is evident in this thread, but I just wanted to sell all the mods and be done with this car. I mean, I have done through a tranny, a motor, spent 3K+ in performance mods and now this crappy dyno.

Oh well. I am over that and now just want to find and fix the problem...whatever it takes. It could have just been a bad dyno, but I doubt it. I am going to the track tonight and see what happens.

1. New spark plugs and fuel filter less than a couple hundred miles ago. I will still pull the plugs to see what the look like. Air filter could use a changing, but that can't be my sole problem.


2. No codes at this time...the old 0505

3. If I had a misfire bad enough to cause this, then I would expect to feel it or see it in the curve, don't you think? Will check coil packs.

4. I am thinking it's most likely is vacuume leak, massive timing pull, or an MAF problem.

5. Got to do a compression check.

Looking at the frist pull, before the MEVI did not open, eveything seems fairly normal up to 4.5k rpms. Torque is a tad low, but close to where it should be and it would probably be higher if things didn't get fubared at 4.5K.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

That is not my main worry right now, but it still sucks all the same.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

wonder if there are any exhaust restrictions (inadvertently bent/crushed sections, broken catalyst, etc.) contributing...

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

I forgot about that too, and maybe some others. An exhaust restriction could make your graph look like that. Everything normal until the upper rpm range and then the exhaust is choking it off. What is the condition of your cat?

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Didn't think about that one. I have no idea about the condition of my cat...Any good way to check it without taking it off. I have hear the theory about feeling the exhaust pulses come out the muffler...if it's just a stream then the cat my have broken up and clogged the B-pipe.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You would hear rattling if the cat was broken into pieces. The traditional way to test for a clogged cat is to measure backpressure in the exhaust just before the cat. You can do that by having a bung welded to the y-pipe upstream of the cat ($15 at a muffler shop), and using an appropriately sized hose barb to connect to a pressure gauge.

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

Alot of times people check for blocked cats by heat. Exhaust shops will have those infrared temperature sensors that they can use. Run the car hard and then check the temp of the header, cat, and then b-pipe. If the cat is alot hotter than the others, then it is partially clogged. If it is way higher the car might be fully clogged. If it were broken it would just rattle.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I hear ya.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That is pretty lean, even by NA standards. You could benefit from a Cartech fmu. BEGI makes a version for NA use.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

I think it's gotta be a timing retard issue or a clogged exhaust. My first run with the VI closed in lower rpms looks normal, a tad low but nothing major. Torque just falls like crazy all of the sudden....either my timing gets pulled or the exhaust can't flow as the rpms increase. All the other possibilities like MAF, vacuume leak, coil packs and such would cause problems through the whole power band. Not just all the sudden in the middle of my power curve.

The fact that I still get close to my peak tq also explains why the car seems to run good and pull strong. I do go WOT to 5K-6K rpms alot but I don't often take it to 7K. So since I am making all the peak torque the car would still seem strong most of the time.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Disconnect the Y-pipe from the catalyst before doing a run