Brake rotor clarification
#1
Brake rotor clarification
I'm going to buy some new rotors for my 00 SE and I'm seeing a lot of conflicting opinions on slotted and xdrilled rotors.
Slotted - from what I understand they allow more "bite", but could potentially wear your pads out faster. Any other pros or cons of slotted?
Cross drilled - I'm hearing different things here. I would think that they would dissipate heat quicker and thus would be less prone to warping. But I am also hearing that because they have less mass, they will actually heat up quicker and will warp easier. I've also heard that they will crack easily and have no advantage other than looks.
Can somebody clarify? Is there any actual "proof" of the pros and cons of both other than just opinions on the .org? (Not that .org opinions aren't worthwhile, its just hard to make a decison when they contradict each other so much.)
Slotted - from what I understand they allow more "bite", but could potentially wear your pads out faster. Any other pros or cons of slotted?
Cross drilled - I'm hearing different things here. I would think that they would dissipate heat quicker and thus would be less prone to warping. But I am also hearing that because they have less mass, they will actually heat up quicker and will warp easier. I've also heard that they will crack easily and have no advantage other than looks.
Can somebody clarify? Is there any actual "proof" of the pros and cons of both other than just opinions on the .org? (Not that .org opinions aren't worthwhile, its just hard to make a decison when they contradict each other so much.)
#2
Um if the rotor releases it's heat too fast, that will warp the rotor. Ask yourself if you even need drilled rotors and if it will really even benefit you on the street. Plus the fact you can't get the rotors turned if they do warp. So they are an one time purchase deal.
#3
my experience with brembo drilled/slotted rotors with hawk pads were that the pedal was a little stiffer, stopping distance improved (not dramatic), smooth as hell after 10k, a little noisier, no brake dust, .....but most importantly....they look fr!ggin awesome! :-)
rims cost like $2,000 to make your car look awesome, rotors cost $100 (for fronts) to make a stock tire setup look awesome...i did the math, dont regret it for a second!
rims cost like $2,000 to make your car look awesome, rotors cost $100 (for fronts) to make a stock tire setup look awesome...i did the math, dont regret it for a second!
#5
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A quality stock replacement rotor will be your best bet for a great set of long lasting brakes.
If you want looks, personally I like X-drilled. I've got over 50,000 on a set of Brembo x-drilled with no problems at all. Veryyyyyy smooth brakes that stop just fine.
If you want more performance slots would be your best bet. The slots help keep the pad surface clean and release any built up gases that might make the pad float under very extream braking conditions. They resist brake fade a bit more but they also eat up pads a bit faster.
If you only need great new brakes, but don't need the looks or added performance, then a quality stock replacement rotor coupled with pads that match your driving style is your best choice. The pads will actually make more of a differance then rotors will. A nice soft semi-metallic pad will have excellent initial bite while a harder pad will not grap as well but will resits higher temps better if your hard on your brakes.
If you want looks, personally I like X-drilled. I've got over 50,000 on a set of Brembo x-drilled with no problems at all. Veryyyyyy smooth brakes that stop just fine.
If you want more performance slots would be your best bet. The slots help keep the pad surface clean and release any built up gases that might make the pad float under very extream braking conditions. They resist brake fade a bit more but they also eat up pads a bit faster.
If you only need great new brakes, but don't need the looks or added performance, then a quality stock replacement rotor coupled with pads that match your driving style is your best choice. The pads will actually make more of a differance then rotors will. A nice soft semi-metallic pad will have excellent initial bite while a harder pad will not grap as well but will resits higher temps better if your hard on your brakes.
#6
I currently have Brembo blanks and metal matrix pads. I've had them for about 40K and they have been ok, no noticable performance gain. I had to turn the rotors twice, once within 10K, and they have been giving me shudder for some time now. I drive a ton for work and relatively hard. I am wanting to gain performance as well as avoid warping again. Do xdrilled or slotted rotors give any protection against warping? Like I said - I would think that xdrilled would lose the heat that causes warping faster - but I'm hearing different things here........
#7
Originally Posted by Rich96
I currently have Brembo blanks and metal matrix pads.........
Back on topic:
I've been running X-Drilled rotors for a long time now and they're still holding up. The only thing that should concern anyone when buying these types of rotors is the noise when stopping from highway speeds. My next set will be slotted or blanks.
#8
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
You need as much mass as possible, we only have wimpy 11 inch rotors.
You need as much mass as possible, we only have wimpy 11 inch rotors.
#9
What does that article have to do with slotted or xdrilled rotors? Its very informative, but only talks about how brake judder is created, it doesn't address the different types of rotors.
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