This weekend I am going to help a friend change his auto trans filter and gasket on a 4th gen. Does anyone have the torque specs for the pan bolts. I am a new believer in torque wrenches. If anyone else would like to e-mail me with this info. that would be VERY much appreciated. Thanks.

 

Any work of this nature should be done w/ the assistance of a service manual. Even the cheapie ones like Chiltons/Haynes should list the specs. If you are a firm believer in torque wrenches, believe in service manuals also.

 

Where does one acquire a factory service manual and how much does it cost?

 

don't bother doing this. There is no filter, only a 'screen' that does not need replacement unless you are rebuilding the tranny or doing some other major repair.

The auto tranny on 4th gens has a drain bolt with a square head the exact shape of a 1/2" drive ratchet and is easy to undo and drain. IF you insist on doing this, you will have to do it at least 4 separate times to drain all the fluid out. Quickie tips are as follows:

Remove the splash shield in the wheel well on the driver's side (just like when changing oil, only on the opposite side)

With the shield off, it should be easy to see this plug. It will be facing you and is on the lower left hand side of the tranny housing. Slide your 1/2" drive ratchet on there and undo plug. It's just like changing your oil.

Whatever amount comes out (up to 3 quarts or so), re-fill with an ATF of your choice. DON'T overfill. That will fry the tranny.....


My real recommendation is to go to a Penske Auto Center and have a "Trans-Go" full ATF system flush performed. It will cost $80 to $100........

 

Chiltons/Haynes = most auto parts stores.

Factory Nissan = Courtesy Nissan($75 about) or Ebay for whatever $

 

DON'T CHANGE THE SCREEN/FILTER! All of the screen fasteners are bolts EXCEPT one. That one exception is a nut and bolt. The bolt passes through the valve body and there is nothing to keep the bolt from turning except friction. You could very possibly have to remove the valve body (PITA) to tighten it back up. The screen is not listed as a maintanence item and really doesn't collect crud. Mine had 70K miles when I did a valve body kit in February and had absolutely nothing on it.

I would recommend that you don't even drop the pan. Just pull the plug and drain. Your friend's money would be much better spent on a tranny cooler and a complete drain and refill with synthetic.

 

The only reason for pulling the pan, if you have one (2nd and 3rd gens don't), is to wipe out and crud sitting in it. This will help keep the new fluid from picking up the old junk. It is worthwhile to remove the drain plug. It has a magnet on the end to hold any steel/iron slivers that are worn off. By 40k miles it will be covered with stuff.
Draing the pan and having the rest flushed out at the same time is the right way to do it. I did the transmission in my wife's 88 Max (86k miles) last weekend. First I drained and refilled the sump and then disconnected the return line (before starting it up so I wouldn't mix the old and new fluids). It took a total of 11 qts (8 qt capacity) to get clean fluid coming out, and I was using clear, Tygon tubing so I could see exactly what was coming out. This is why most exchange machines use 14 qts.