okay, I have read a bunch of threads on filling in motor mounts with poly. The one part that I still do not understand is: do you press your old mount out then re use the metal casing (that the bolt goes thru)? If this is the case how have you gone about making sure the metal is in the middle, while forming the new insert. If this is not the case then please fill me in as to how you do this. Thanks for any help.

-Carson

 

I've wondered this myself..

 

Air chisel did the trick for me..

 

I can get the material out...thats not the problem. I am wondering if you take out all the old stuff the re use the bolt hole thing or what? Or if you just leave the old stuff in and fill in the space that is there in the stock mount? Also, do you take the metal insert sleeve out if you take all the originial material out or do you just leave that in? (I know most of this does not make sence, but if you have done this it should)

*I just did the es mounts in my 4th gen, so I had to press the old one out then cut the metal sleeve out before I could press the new one. But what I am asking is different since I am trying to make poly mounts.

 

after looking on google I found a write up done by an MR2 guy...it looks like you just fill in the factory spaces...here is the link

http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/tech/SolidMounts1.htm

here is another guy that just stuffs cutting board into them
http://www.turbomirage.com/mountinserts.htm

and another one that just fills in the holes....
http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

....is filling in the holes ok if your mount is ripped? anyone know? I am asking all of these questions about an 87 so I am guessing the mounts may not be in great shape. Thanks for any help.

 

Scrape out the old rubber but leave enough to keep the metal sleeve in place.

Or just use 3 or 4 zip ties, then scrape out all of the rubber and fill with urethane.

 

if the mount is ripped do you still think they would hold up better than factory mounts after they have been filled?

 

I just left all the stock rubber in and filled.

 

were your's ripped? If so how was the outcome? Did the mounts feel much better?

 

This is how I did mine.

 

I bought a used set that were in good condition. Only one very small tear. The improvement was worth it IMO. A little more vibration and noise, but I don't mind.

 

what are the benefits of this, and how difficult and time consuming is the job?

 

most difficult is removing the engine mounts.

otherwise everything else is just a chemistry set where u mix the chemicals and pour it into the mount and let dry (set).

 

your moter will flex less under stress....it takes out the play that is built into stock mounts...evidently the trade off is more cabin noise, but my car is already pretty loud so I am not worried about that

 

How long does it usually take to remove these mounts/whats the procedure?

 

it is in the 4th gen FAQ's...since you have the same motor I am guessing it will be the same...bottom line you need to support the motor and tranny with a jack and drop the cross member after you have taken the bolts out of the front and rear mounts.

 

I just cut out at much of the stock rubber as possible and filled with a two part poly. Leave just enough rubber so that the stock bolt sleeve stays where it should and tape up the opposite side as good as you can(it can get messy) Took me about 2 hours to remove the rubber and fill both mounts. i would let them dry for at least 3 days and then install them. They aren't that hard to install if you have a couple jacks so you can manipulate the motor. When i installed these it was the best thing i ever did to my car. it felt much better, wheel hop was reduced and the car was smoother. HIGHLY RECOMMENED

 

I would let it dry for as long as possible. I remember there being issues with them if you didn't wait for like 5-7 days. If the ES mounts weren't pretty cheap then I would have done this. I would also let them dry for at least a week. The longer you let it dry the better.

 

i did mine with no success, that ISH took forever to dry.. i couldn't wait for 2 days, i think it's still not dry yet and it's been a lil over a month.. maybe i got 2 tubes of defective poly window sealant.

 

Just fill th bias. Make sure the rubber has no residue of any sort on it and tape off the bottom side. If you are swapping from auto you need to cut out the jelly sections. It doesn't make sense to take out all the rubber. The rubber itself is plenty hard to support the engine. Its the gaps that cause the slop.

 

What the hell did you use?

Was it two part castable urethane?

Here is the McMaster Carr part number of the stuff I used: 8644K11

Needless to say it took more than just one to fill the mounts completely. If you're just filling the voids you may be able to get away with just one.

 

i gave up on it, i think i'll just buy the es bushings. mine wasn't the two parts thing

 

If I would've sealed it up well the first time I would have been able to fill three of mine with only one can. But stupid me let most of it leak through the duct tape. I had to wait a week for another can to come. I love it now. The engine is rock solid. Although my tranny mount isn't filled and I think this is what is causing the wheel hop.

 

have any of you guys used 3M window weld? That is one product that was recomended in a write up I was reading. If you did not use this then what did you use and where did you get it?

 

0123456789

 

Don't use anything but what we know is proven. You have an easy access product to use so why mess with anything else?

 

most 3M stuff is pretty good...

where do you get the McMasters stuff?

 

leave the rubber and fill the voids. The urethane will crack, but still be functional. It it cracks without the rubber as a structure it will just fall out

 

Yeah but its WINDOW WELD. My imediate thought when I hear window weld is that it will be permenantely soft. My second thought is that it is intended to adhere to glass not rubber.

Read Ben's writeup in the how too.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...7&postcount=26
McMaster urethane can be found here.
http://www.mcmaster.com

 

Your picture didn't work.

 

I see it. though I did get a red X once. Don't know whats up.

 

this should fix it...

 

I thought it would be a picture of the urethane cracked. Has anyone else heard of this being a problem? I solid filled my mounts (Removed all the rubber). This is the first I've heard of it cracking.

 

I will take some pics of how my mounts look now.

 

I don't recommend anyone using 3m window weld. I tried it and that stuff is the nastiest crap to work with. It's similar to tar but it has a thinner consistancy. I believe window weld would take a couple of weeks to dry because I waited 3 days and it was still wet. I cleaned out the window weld and then I got the 2 part poly mix and it worked great.

 

Ok I just went to the McMaster site and the stuff is $26 each. So I am wondering how many tubes/orders I will need. I am planning on leaving all rubber that is on the mounts there, and I am only going to fill in gaps and places that they have ripped. This will be done on a 1987 maxima, and I plan on doing two motor mounts and a tranny mount (need to see how many I have). Anyway, anyone with experience I would appreciate your recomendation of how much of this stuff I will need. Thanks.

 

I don't recomend filling the tranny mount or timing chain mount. I did my timing chain mount and the torsional stress just cracked the poly right out. But the main mounts are fine because that is more of a compressional stress. I have mine for sale if you don't want to futs with it. $50 shipped. I'd say if you got the duct tape really tight and sealed the first time you could fill two mounts with one can.

Finally here are pics of mine.

 

I already have the energy suspension mounts in my fourth gen. I am asking this question about my second gen. If the fourth gen mounts will fit a second gen, then sure I will take them from you, but they are not the same part number as the fourth gen. For the tranny mount I was only going to fill it if it was ripped. I am planning on pulling all the mounts out at once, so I wanted to do them all while I had down time on the car. I may be able to get to this project this weekend but I am not sure. Any other imput on if one order of this stuff will fill everything I am looking to fill? Thanks for the advice broaner.

 

why is that one mount so shiny. It looks like it is wet.

 

That would be the same mount in each pic. The none shinny side is the side that was on the duct tape. The shiny side is the side that was open. If left to cure in the open it will dry like black ice.