Gears & Crosses

I need advice. My wife was rearended and the other persons insurance company is hinting at totally my 4th gen. I am very happy with the car and I really don't want to total it unless they make me an offer I can't refuse. My Max. is loaded and in very good shape but my 97 has 136,000 miles on it. I know this Max is just getting broken in. My estimate for repair is $2500. Kelly Blue book says my Max retails for $7000??? They are saying something about the repair getting within 50% of the cars value. Anyone heard of this?

The car is not in that bad of shape. The worst part is the pass. side rear quarter panel is pushed forward about a 1/4". The deck lid is dented, a few of the tail lamps are broken and the bumper is toast. Other than that it is OK.

Expert advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Gears

godlyone

What are you complaining about lol? Get a good deal out of it and buy a new car? 5th gen maybe?

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

well honestly i would total it, but make sure you milk them for every penny!!

once a car is hit in spot like that it may never be the same, paint can not match or chip, and if body filelr is used it can crack over long time.

Make sure you dont setle for what they say, find some expensive 4th gen adds to back your self up , find with site syas your car is worth the most, tell them your car was in excellent condition.

-Good luck man

chernmax

iTrader: (15)

I say out with old and in with the new (or newer used). Not only will the car, paint and parts ever be the same as the original, if you ever try to sell it, the damage will come up on a car fax and you may be lucky enough to be offered 1G.

Your call, think out ALL the pros and cons, you know your wants and needs best, good luck...

wunfstmax

iTrader: (7)

from what i know they go by nada value.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

Most insurance companies hire a third party adjuster to assess the damage and to appraise the vehicle.

Gears & Crosses

I guess I'm worried about getting "piped" on the deal. I actually had a third generation Max several years ago that got wrecked several times and it was repaired and put back in great shape each time. I was amazed at how well the car felt after each time after the repair. Normally, I would let the car go with so many miles but I guess I've been pretty happy with the car. I am real pleased with the service I've gotten. I already have a car note on my 2002 6 speed also. I'm trying to get a new house so I really don't want another note. I might try and fix most of the car myself if necessary.

I will check the NADA value, thanks Wunstmax. They already sent out an appraiser Loe Max, good call.

Thanks for the replies,
Gears

Gears & Crosses

NADA says "high retail" is $6,750. This sucks...

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

I've never, ever, had a 3rd party appraise my car. Always the insurance company that was with the person who was at fault.

Gears and Crosses make sure the company isn't cheating you. Check whether what they told you is true. Over here with all state they won't total a car unless the damage is 100% of value of the car. Other's are 70%. If you don't want the car totaled follow up on that. If you don't mind if they total it just don't worry about it. Hell, if they give you more than $6k for that car take the money and run .

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Um they might USE nada for their value. Too bad you can't BUY another car using nada! That's the 1st bs sign right there. USE KELLY BLUE BOOK. Why? Because that is the source that's used to PRICE used cars. It's what you have to work with when go to car dealers. What does NADA do for you? NOTHING. It's just used by dealers for trade in value and by insurance companies to screw you over by a few thousand.

I get $8,210 using se, moonroof, premium wheels, 134,000 miles and my zip.

http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.u...ima&9;NI;D4&&&

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

Right, the insurance company hires a third party Adjuster to assess the vehicle damage and appraise it. It is probably the same company they are in contract with.

But there are times when they will allow you to have it appraised yourself by either a body shop or the likes. I guess I don't know your situation and what happened, but in most cases, if the vehicle is presumed totalled, the party at fault insurance will send over an adjuster.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

N/P I went through the same ish with my Accord when a tree branch fell on it and totalled it

Gears & Crosses

Thanks for the input guys. I need to stick to my guns. Like I said before, I will fix it myself if I have too. Or maybe I should look for a 5-speed.

I am coming up with $7160 with my options and zip. What do you think would be fair price if I keep the car?

Loe Max, do you like your Max better then your Accord? I had a Vigor before this 4th gen. The Max is more reliable to me, but the Acura handled better.

Gears

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

:

Lets see the damage...

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

Of course I like the Maxima better Keep in mind that whatever you get online, that its just an estimate. My book value of my car during the time of the accident was $10,500 NADA value, but I received a sum of approx $11,650 minus hail damage ($2,300) that I didn't get fixed that I claimed less than 90 days before that accident. In other words, you'll never know what you'll actually get into they insurance issues you a check. The Adjuster won't tell you at the time as he'll have to research the history of the vehicle and observe his pictures that he takes.

If you filed a claim some 90 or so days before the new accident occurred and it totalled the vehicle such as hail like in my situation(depending on insurance company) and you didn't get it fixed but did cash the check, ALWAYS SAY YES if they asked you if you had gotten the repair fixed, unless of course the blemish is still noticable. I made that mistake by saying NO and was cut short on the claim even though the hail damage was not noticable due to the water spots, tree sap, glass everywhere, tree leaves, tree bark ect...

Gears & Crosses

How do I post pictures. I have a digital camera.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

So third party adjustors have their own building with a big ALL STATE or STATE FARM LOCAL OFFICE written on them? You are always allowed to have the car appraised at a shop of your choice.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

I did say most and not all didn't I? I guess I should have said some instead. According to my insurance company (American Family) they hire out for an adjuster. Or course, it'll depend also if its a state wide, nation wide, or locally owned practice also.

BRAN808

iTrader: (1)

Wow, maybe things are different in the mainland than in Hawaii. I'm an estimator at our families' body shop. I can tell you exactly how things are done here in Hawaii......and I'm assuming that they'd be very similar. First off, once your in an accident, whether it be your insurance company or the other guys, you'll get an estimate done. If the other insurance company accepts liability, they'll probably send you to one of their shops in their direct repair program (DRP shops). Most insurance companies have the estimator at that shop write the estimate. Some insurance companies have their own appraisers write the estimates, and then some have independent appraisal companies write them. For us, we write about 95% or our own estimates, the insurance company writes maybe 3%, and independents do maybe 2%. We use an electronic estimating system that will "flag" the writer when the APPROXIMATE value of the car is getting near. True, some insurance companies go off of different %'s before they total a car. The reason being, there are other expenses that are also figured into the TOTAL cost of the repair such as Towing, rental cars, and possibility of additional damage. So For example, let's say your estimate was $2500, but your car needed to be towed to the shop. Let's say that's an additional $100 (hypathetically). Now let's say that the car will be in the shop for 10 working days. If you need a rental car, their insurance would normally cover that. That's about an additional $300 (price may differ). Now let's say that the shop doesn't know for sure that the rear bumper absorber and reinforcement is damaged. That's a possible $400 additional. That's an additional $800 or more that will be added to the total cost of the claim. That's what the insurance will look at. Then, if it looks really close to totaling, the shop/insurance company will do a market search to get the value of the car. We don't go off of KBB, we call a company in the mainland that does a market search in your particular area for similar vehicles with similar options, and similar condition to get the current market value. Average mileage, for example, is not listed as 12,000 miles per year, but rather it's specific per each vehicle. So a Toyota Camry's average mileage may be lower than a Honda Civic for the same year car......you know what I mean? Then, once the insurance company get's the vakue back from the valuation company, they look at waht the salvage value of the car is (basically what they'll get when they sell the car to the auction yard). Then, at that point, with all those things factored in, they decide if the car is going to total. WWHHHEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWW!
Gears, in my opinion, if your estimate is only at $2500, your car won't total. But, I didn't see the estiamte and what are the other factors involved. Usually, it's not the customers decision, it's the insurance companies decision......since they're paying for the repairs. If it's more economically feasable to fix the car, they'll fix it. It all boils down to $$$! Good luck, sorry this was so long, but hope this helps!

Gears & Crosses

Bran,
I think your pretty much right on the money on your explanation and I thank you for it. I drove the car to one of their "DRP" shops, that had a good reputation. I was going to work off of that estimate to take it to the shop of my choice. Where things went south is when they printed the mileage on the shops written estimate. I think when the insurance co. saw the mileage, they imediately sent out one of there appraisers. This guy was out to looking to total it in my opinion. My wife and I "expressed" our strong desire to keep the car to the insurance company and they look like they are considering it.

Thanks again,
Gears

BRAN808

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, sometimes the appraiser can somewhat control what happens to your car. They can control the $$$ amount on the estimate, they can control the "value" of your car (so to speak), and they can "recommend" that the car be totalled. But, the insurance company is the final word. If the car is borderline, and could go either way, then that's when it comes into play how the customer feels or wants to happen. But, for the most part,(at least for me), I'd rather fix the car. Most shops would too, because it's more money, and 1 more job for them. But I'm sure some appraisers have swung things the other way if they didn't like the customer .

Gears & Crosses

I asked the appraiser what he thought about the repair of the car and he told he couldn't say anything until he got back to his office and look at things. I called the insurance company about an hour later to see what was going on. They said the adjuster already called them and told them to tell me not to bring it to a shop yet. Its been a couple of days since then I haven't heard from them. I will call them on Friday when I am off from work.

Believe me guys, if the hit to the car was bad I wouldn't want to keep the car. But it really isn't bad at all.

What worrys me right now is this "market survey" that you are talking about. I have been looking at the paper and 4th gens are pretty cheap right now. I have seen some for $4000 to 5000. Allstate piped me on this same survey when they totalled out my 3rd gen. I could not get a Max as nice as the one a had with what they gave me. They were giving me about $1000 below retail book value for it with a fresh paint job on it. Man was I hot!.

Bran, do you think a second estimate from another shop would help my situation???

Gears

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

Did the adjuster meet you at those places you got estimates?

BRAN808

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, I don't think it would. Usually the insurance companies go off the estimate that the shop writes. Especially if it's a DRP shop. They do this because that shop is trustworthy and has a good reputation of writing thorough estimates and doing quality repairs. What insurance company was it that rear ended your wife? I've seen a few times where the customer has had concerns with the dollar amount they've received from the insurance company, but once the insurance company deems it a total loss, that's ususally end of story. Of course, the customer can buy the vehicle back from the inusrance company, but if it has a salvaged title......it's not worth it. The kind of sh--ty thing about it is that no matter how good condition, or how low your mileage, some vehicles just hold their value better than others. Nissan is ok, but not as good as Acura,Honda, or Toyota. Let me know if I can help in any other ways.

BRAN808

iTrader: (1)

The adjusters never leave their office! Just kidding for all you insurance guys out there. But usually, the adjuster is the one who does all of the customer contact, and the appraiser is the one that handles the damage analysis.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Understood. I've never dealt with any ins companies besides all state and state farm

Gears & Crosses

The adjuster came to my house and he was a subcontractor.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

If you didn't go to a body shop, I'm going by gut feeling (about 85% of me) says that he'll total the vehicle out. But thats just my opinion

Gears & Crosses

The Insurance company is American National PAC. I hear you on the resale value. I have no idea why Honda and Toyota resales are better. I think Hondas are especially over rated. Nissan is atleast on par with these companies.

I'm calling the insurance company tomorrow. I will let you know if anything new comes up.

Thanks,
Gears

Gears & Crosses

The piping has begun. The insurance company wants to total and offered me $4000. We are still negotiating.

Gears & Crosses

I drove the car to a Body shop (30 miles away) first for an estimate and they later sent out an adjuster to my house.

Gears

kcidmil

Negotiate to a good deal... take the money, buy back your car. (they won't let you put full coverage till it has been fixed) And have the cheapest place you found for repairs do the work. That way you still have some money left over. (this works best when a car is paid for)

This is what my parents did when they rolled their 89 Toyota pickup. State Farm totaled out their truck. Gave them around $3500. They bought the truck back for like $750. There was nothing wrong with the truck. Just beat up panels on the bed.

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

You got your wish, I think

Gears & Crosses

kcidmil- Ya thats what I'm probably going to do. I hate the fact that my car is going to have a Salvage title just because of a busted bumper and messed up trunk lid. Oh well, I'm just venting.

Loe max- I didn't get my wish, I just wanted the car back like it was. But in hind site, I'm probably going to come out ahead on the deal if I do the work myself. Its just coming at a real bad time right now.

Is there anyway I can get out of the Salvage title if they total it out?????
Gears

Loe max

iTrader: (6)

Probably not, unless you can speak to your insurance company about not totalling it out and instead fix the damage done.

kcidmil

Talk to insurance company... state farm was willing to put full coverage back onto my parents truck if the damage was fixed. They said they'd also do the paperwork to have the title switched back to normal.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

For your own record, if you choose to buy the car back you should take details pics of the damage, the repair process and finally when the car is completely done and repaired. Sure you'll have a salvage title, but if I was a prospective buyer looking to buy a car with a salvage title and the owner showed me pics of the damage, repair process and the final work, that might help convince me to buy the car.

I am/was in a similar situation like you. My wife's Civic got rear-ended, the rt rear qt. panel got push in (but not dented) The bumper cover pop off on one side. The rt rear frame rail was damage, you can see where the floor board was buckle in the trunk. It's a 4dr Civic so the rt rear door was binding every time the door was open/closed. All of this was obvious outside damage, but I was totally aware there could be more inside damage that wasn't obvious.

Seeing this I was affraid the Civic might be totalled so I started taking detail pics of the obvious outside damage. If it was totalled I would have bought the car back from the insurance company without a doubt. We bought the Civic new and it has been 100% trouble free from day one and I knew I couldn't get another used Civic like this one (maybe this is one of the reason Honda's hold their resale value) It wouldn't have matter if I had a Chevy Cavilar that got rear ended, if the Chevy was 100% trouble free from day one I would buy it back.

The car is currently in the shop being repaired by the insurance company so no salvage title for us

MIKE

ramberg

iTrader: (29)

[QUOTE=Gears & Crosses]


My 2 cents. Don't take the first offer. See if you can take out your upgrades (audio system, engine mods etc.) I hope your wife wasn't hurt. Later Warren

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If you can email me the pics, I can host them on my site and post them up for you.

boredMDer74@gmail.com

Gears & Crosses

[QUOTE=ramberg]Thanks for everyones advice! I didnt take the first offer (as suggested) and they are refiguring the offer. Its taking a little while but I guess thats normal. They still want to total the car however.

I will just have to document everything like Candiman suggested.

My wife is basically OK with the exception of an aggravated neck. It starting to get better. Thanks for asking

Pray for me,
Gears