Tell that to the dozens upon dozens of people running for several years now with 300whp stock QR's.. and at least a dozen with built turbo QR's running 400-500whp. The first one that I built, almost 3 years ago.. is still running strong at 400whp.. daily driven. Advancements in coatings, and lightweight/strong forgings.. is what is allowing this to happen.

I spoke to the owner, and we're going to give this a go... So, I'll have my crank in next week.. and we'll get started. I should have some pics/info up soon.

SR20DEN.. I don't understand why you're so negative about this... Instead of telling me it's not going to work, because you don't like the setup.. why don't you help out as best as you can, and contribute.. Don't you think that would be more beneficial? Look, I'm sorry that we got off on the wrong foot in my Sentra thread.. Obviously you know a lot about stuff.. so let's work together.. instead of against one another.

Travis

 

I think this is great ,this kind of stuff is breathing new life into the dieing maxima.
This my give us parts that we may have never gotten.

GUy at my track was revving to 7500rpm with almost a 6 inch strokewhats that around 150mm

 

Well... stroke doesn't necessarily dictate how high you can rev a motor... the rod/stroke ratio plays the biggest part in it. You could have a long stroke, and long rod (tall deck), and rev high still.. But, most strokers have to incorporate a block that's made for a shorter stroke.. So, you have a longer stroke.. but have to shorten the rod to fit it into the constraints of the deck height. So, this means piston speeds go up per revolution. This changes the powerband around... depending on R/S ratio you get.. In a N/A application, piston speeds can get so high.. that you can't effectively fill the cylinder at high RPM. However, in a turbo/super application.. that all changes.. because air is force-fed into the cylinders.. and not just drawn in by suction. So, you can get away with revving low R/S ratio motors a lot higher, and sustain the powerband.. PLUS, you get the benefit of lower RPM grunt, faster spool-up time, and more peak power because of the increased displacement.

I enjoy doing new things like this... I think that when tuners get stuck in a loop, doing the same thing over and over again.. you lose touch with what "tuning" is all about. People who are on the cutting edge, are the ones who win, and get the publicity. I enjoy what I do... and I hope that I can bring some cool stuff to the table for the Maxima/Altima community soon. This project, in general, is going to turn some heads. Trust me..

Travis

 

I just realized something.. I goofed on the R/S calculations.. I forgot that when figuring the new rod length, that it would be HALF of the difference between the 2 strokes... I was using the 10.6mm difference between the 92mm and 81.4mm strokes, and subtracting that from the 144.2mm rod length, to get my new rod length. That's how I got the 1.45 ratio.. HOWEVER, I should only use half of the difference in stroke.. DUH! So, if we have a 5.3mm change in the throw of the rod pin.. that means we only subtract 5.3mm from the 144.2mm rod length, to get our new length needed. That means, without any tricks with the compression height... we get a 1.51:1 R/S ratio.. Now, let's say I decrease the wrist pin diameter a little, and move the wrist pin up 6mm(totaly do-able), I get a rod length, right at 145mm. That gives me a rod/stroke ratio of 1.57:1. This is TOTALY acceptable.. and would be a 8K RPM, reliable motor. For comparison.. the SR20DET has a R/S ratio of 1.59:1.. People rev them to 8500 without piston speed issues.

Also.. This could work for a budget, all motor stroker setup.. How?

92mm stroke, with the 215mm block, you'd need a 138.9mm rod if you wanted to use the stock compression height. However, let's say we move the wrist pin up exactly 5.3mm in our piston? That means you could use the stock VQ35 rods! Now, granted, those rods are only good for around 400whp safely... But, for a all motor setup.. this would be perfect! Here's what it would cost..

New VQ40DE crankshaft- 300.00 (retail)
Grind main journals down 10mm- 150.00 - 200.00
Custom forged pistons (to get the correct compression ratio)- 750.00

That's around 1200.00 for a 3.8 liter stroker kit.. with a rod/stroke ratio at around 1.57:1, and you choose your compression ratio! This would make a awesome street motor.. lots of low end TQ, and big HP up top. Imagine if you owned a VQ35 block.. You'd have a 4.0 liter using this setup! Want something really insane? Do a big bore setup with it.. using 100mm bores.. That would yield a 4.3 liter! Imagine any of these strokers, with all the bolt-on's, reflash, injectors, cams, and a 3" exhaust.. I bet the 4.3 liter would make well into the mid 300's at the wheels..

Now, imagine a huge turbo, with sleeves, forged pistons/rods, studs.. You'll soon see one in action.




Travis

 

 

Whats up in Lousyana

My 2c. A well built turbo VQ35 using off the shelf aftermarket parts that are tried and true will make more than enough power to rip the tires loose in 3rd on the street and break the transmisson at the track on slicks that all the extra money spent on a unique motor build will, IMHO as a DIY, be a waste. If some one else was paying me to do this sorta work then why not, I'd make a windfall on fixing the next thing that breaks... If $ is no object, put it in a Z.

Now slam back a "Purple Haze" for me and get to work on this

 

Drugie talk is illegal in all of america except denver.

 

Oh dear God, tell me this isn't a white SE-R, who's owner is Cuban and lives in central FL, you are speaking of.

 

Umm.... no.. lol..

It belongs to a black SE-R owner, who is very white.. lol

Random...

Travis

 

It's costing us around 500.00 more than what it would cost for us to build his current motor.. We are sleeving, and forging the motor anyway.. which should be done in ANY reliable, high HP motor. So, 500.00 for an extra .3 liters of displacement is a no brainer to me.

And this trans isn't going to break... trust me on that.

I'm a bourbon drinker.. beer is nasty.

Travis

 

I'm talking about the QR turbo that you posted a graph of.

 

Why are you taking this so personally? I told you it wouldn't work and then I told you what you needed to do to potentially make it work. So what is the big deal?

 

The other guy does have a point. You are being negative about this. Even if someone challenges your knowledge its no reason to bicker about it, or withhold a potential solution just because someone didn't take your word for it. I thought the whole idea behind the forum was to provide a collaborative effort for the progression of the performance of the Maxima. By flately telling someone it just won't work doesn't seem to coincide with the spirit in which this site was started.

His idea may not be as ground breaking as the mastering of flight, but the priciples of discovery are the same. How bout the inventor of the wheel, or the internal combustion engine, or the light bulb, or telephone, or the millions of other discoveries and inventions people have made in spite of all the naysayers.

Wouldn't you guys get much more accomplished if you were to work with each other rather than you tell him how much he is wrong? He doesn't need anyone telling him that. He will find out soon enough if he is wrong, or he will overcome a speedbump and possible discover something that is even more beneficial than what he was going after. It appears he has at least enough knowledge and experience to be on the same page as most of the pioneers that came before us on here.

If you know you are right and that it will never work must you say your peace just to to say it? Wouldn't the knowledge that you are right be enough for your soul without having to say something that will in turn discourage someone from finding something wonderful about these cars? It certainly won't help to tell someone they will fail. As often times it can become a self fulfilling prophecy.

I know people say its cause they don't want to see someone go through all this wasted motion, but its not. Its about voicing ones opinion that they are right and everyone else is wrong. Or the fact that it makes them feel good to stand out there and say something they think that nobody else knows. They want the ego trip from putting something out there that makes them think people will be in awe of their knowledge. When people told you that you could never break the 13's, or your ideas about nitrous were stupid, crazy, and sensless; did you say ok you're right i'll just quite now so i don't waste my time and money? Of course not. So why perpetuate the same negativity? If people weren't so quick to judgment and always being negative this community would be light years ahead of were it is now.

 

If I answer questions I do it quickly and get to the point. If you don't like my answers then don't read them. And at no point did you ever see me say "Don't do this". And at no point did we ever bicker. You guys are making that up.

 

subscribing....

JP

 

Just sleeve the VQ30 with Darton VQ35 sleeves, slap on a set of VQ35 heads, and run any of the numerous FI internals IMHO.

 

It's not that I'm taking it personally... it's just that you have a attitude about it. I'm obviously not the only person who notices that. I'm not sure why... I'm not some dumb ricer kid.. who's talking about putting a skyline motor into a Maxima.. I guess, I'm just used to being treated with respect..

A 1.59:1 R/S motor is perfectly fine... What's wrong with it? SR20 is the same thing.. If this was going to cost 5K plus to do.. sure, it wouldn't be worth it. But the fact that it's way cheaper.. this is almost a no-brainer.. You're telling me you wouldn't sacrifice some R/S, for a motor with .5 more liters displacement? Are you revving the VQ so high that you are taking advantage of the 1.7 R/S? So, what's so horrible about this engine?

 

That's just the way SR20DEN answer's questions on here. but, he has a ton of knowledge, I guess you just have to get used to his style of posting.

 

What specifically are you doing to the transmission?

 

Sorry, I just have a problem with people who think that just because they know something... that entitles them to talk down to other people. I find that being humble, and nice to people, will get you a lot further in this business.

I have no problem with him... oh well..

Travis

 

Debur/shotpeen the gears, cryotreating and nitriding the input and main shafts, gears, and synchros. I've taken apart the 5spd and 6spd boxes.. and the 6spd is WAY beefier than the 5spd.. plus, it's got a Helical diff.. I think that there were some issues with the early model boxes.. but, I've put over 600 crank HP through one in a Sentra, with no problems. I'm sure it won't last forever.. but, I think it will last twice as long as the 5spd with the same treatment.

Travis

 

I like this guy...keep us posted Travis.

 

I have no problem with you either. And I don't see where I was talking down to you. However I am used to many people taking my comments as being offensive and I stopped appologiziing for that a long time ago.

Few people have noticed that I have already given you useful info that you've already posted on other forums. There will always be some who see me as being the bad guy because of the way I post, but again, that's ok because I stopped caring what other people think. I do however care that people get the facts and the correct story.


Since my being here seems to be a distraction, I'll stop posting in this thread. And if you make this work, more power to you. I just wanted let you and everyone else understand that this subject has been researched before and it isn't the easy project that you implied it would be.

 

Just a quick question TurboS13. Have you considered the additional mass of the larger pistons in your calculations about 8k-9k rpm. Granted the R/S ratio is the same but the additional mass of a larger diameter piston may be troublesome. Yes, the VQ is naturally a more balanced engine than any inline-4, however, I am just curious as to how you think bigger slugs are going to effect your high RPM capabilities. More mass in the piston, longer stroke and smaller (by 10mm) rod bearing journal may make for the potential for crankwalk. Just a concern. With that I will wish you the best of luck. I hope to see this work...I'd love to see it in an old 510 with a T66, tubbed with some slicks, or a Max. Anyway, if you are going to be building this, I would personally reccomend chamfering the oil journals on the crank and knife-edging it. Will help reduce windage drag and rotational mass as well as ensuring (hopefully) you stay well lubed in high-g loads in your sump, without a doubt a possibility with the amount of low-end grunt you will see in this motor. Get back to me and let me know what you think of the piston mass versus speed worries I mentioned. I'd be interested to see how you may overcome them. Good luck...To busted knuckles and Bourbon.

 

Isn't he going to use custom forged pistons? Aren't those generally a bit lighter than normal?

Oh, and that question wasn't very quick...J/K

 

Hey Travis - I've read through the whole thread and you haven't mentioned the estimated performance stats for your engine (unless I missed that between your and SR20's salvoes).

I've always dreamed of stretching my engine into a VQ38DD 00VI but how much power and torque will a stroked 30 or 35 actually make?

The Nissan 50th anniversary 350z makes 221kW/297bhp and 353Nm/260ft-lbs which is almost nothing more than the standard 350z.

Also Travis, what sort of turbo are you putting in? If you choose one with a larger compressor wheel will you suffer bad turbo lag or will the increased torque from the larger displacement mask this?

Cheers mate.

 

he won't know the performance output numbers till he actually finishes the project and get a dyno.

this is going to be a hard project, too many custom work, calculation, and drivability issues. from my view, i agree with WISH-IT-WAS-AWD that rotating balance will be altered on the crankshaft itself. crankwalk is a very possible theoretical problem, too. watch for vibrations before slapping on a turbocharger...

nonetheless, i wish travis all the luck he needs to make this work. he's doing deeds for the maxima community here. thanks travis.

 

ok now that this is all said and done, I wanna know what ECU are you gonna use? Are you gonna have the Vtec on or off?

 

Fair Enough Mate.

BEST OF LUCK TRAVIS! I HOPE YOU (that's kick *** btw).

 

me 2 lol!!!!

 

i wasnt talking down to you when i asked my question... i really wanna know what ecu your gonna use and if your gonna have the Vtech running or not

 

Vtech??? you mean VTC, right?

Other than that, please clarify because this Vtech thing just lost me, sounds honda-ish.

 

That's a heavy modification there! Changing a Nissan engine over to a Honda engine with a change of internals? Wow!

suscribing. I wanna see how this turns out

 

^man i mean the variable timing... common now ***edit i hope you where being sarcastic

 

So you are going to take a crank from a VQ40DE that was not made for high rpm, and then grind 10mm off each rod bearing journal, and then expect to rev it to 8k rpm and handle it for a long period of time? Seems like it is asking for trouble, and then you have custom rods and pistons for no reason.

I have a VQ30DE and a VQ40DE, and the latter was not meant to rev, it is a completely different feel. With as many 3.5 parts as there are available, you are wasting time doing anything else just to be different. You can do way more with a VQ35DE than traction will warrant. Who cares if a 3.8 gives more area under the curve on the low end, it is not needed in a fwd car with a weak transmission. My maxima is N/A, and I can not go WOT in 1st gear without spinning. No one is being negative, they are being realistic.

 

if we only did and tried things that were realistic or easy or proven then we wouldnt have any of the new and intresting things going on for our cars that have happened in the past two years.

people said putting a 6 speed in a a32 was unrealistic
same about the 3.5
same about using t-trim blowers
same about using a 00 vi
same about using a smt-6
same about using aem ems
and this list keeps on going an going


if we took that attitude towards thing then emanage ultimate would have died a while ago for us but people are fighting to make it work for us. i never met a group of car people such as this one that is so stuck in the old ways of doing things. lots of people here have more car knowledge then i do but they get so uptight when ever someone has a bright idea for doing something differently.

im all behind u with this idea and i was a fan of the 3.5 in a sentra idea as well. it isnt easy trying to come to people with new ideas and its especially hard with this set of old farts on here. i honestly wonder if the ls1 rx7 would have ever happened if their board was full of people like we have on here.

that being said even though they might not warm up to new ideas they are generaly good people and are willing to help if u need it. SR20DEN is just guy that has info but no sense of tact. and when he goes against something every other older member on here follows him blindly.

 

I hope the engine didn't blow up

 

Used VQ35DE= 700 bux from a salvage yard, 900 bux for Darton sleeves. Bore out the sleeves to 4" bore and keep the factory rods, crank, bearings. Install custom Chevy 350 pistons matched to the Nissan VQ35 rods. Price for Chevy pistons is REALLY cheap- I can get a set for around 550 dollars with custom specifications. Local machine shop I deal with told me they can re-sleeve my VQ35 for bout 700 bux with overbore to 4". You end up with a 4.0L motor for bout 3200 dollars. You can control VTCs via HKS injector controller...

I wanna see this done.... hopefully my sleeved motor will be done before and I can show pics of it instead of just rambling bout it.

 

How do you figure that the VQ40 isn't meant to rev? It's got a better rod/stroke ratio than the VQ35! The reason the engine's power falls off up top.. is because of the camshafts/intake manifold design. They promote big low/mid range power.. which is what a truck would need. But, if you slap the right cams, and intake manifold on that engine.. it would make better top end than a VQ35.

Yes, we're going to grind the VQ40 crank.. I'm not sure where you get the idea that the crank won't hold up.. It's a induction hardened, forged crankshaft.. grinding on it doesn't expose weaker material.. because of the hardening process. The crank is hardened through and through..

Seriously fellas.. I wouldn't have put my name on this if I didn't think it would work. A lot of you don't know me.. and that's fine that you question my ability.. but, I assure you.. I've been building fast Nissans for almost 5 years.. and have about 10 years total in performance background.

Travis

 

Had any crawfish boils latley?