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Anyone here gotten their AC recharged?

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Old 06-12-2001, 11:38 AM
  #1  
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My AC really seems to suck. Once the temp gets above 80, it lacks the ability to get cold. It just gets cool. My wife's Altima gets much cooler. I do have a black car and it does sit out in the sun all day at work, but I crack the windows, put a sunshade, a drive for a few minutes with AC on and the windows down to get the hot air out. Most of my driving is stop and go, but I've tested the AC on the highway during a 30 minute cruise and it still doesn't get cold (this was before my UDP). Even with my UDP, my AC feels no different in power. This AC just doesn't seem to get cold.

I called Nissan and they said the only reason they would have to recharge the system is if there was a leak. I don't buy it. I've already inspected the system and it's fine (no signs of oil leakage on seals and joints). After over 5 1/2 years of life, I'd think that the AC system may have lost some of it's "punch". Anyone else agree?

Should I just go to a AC shop and ask them to add some R134...if it needs it? Hell, I'd do it myself, but my Chiltons manual says GO TO THE DEALER.


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Old 06-12-2001, 12:09 PM
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The only way to test the AC system is to check the refrigerant level. That can be done only at a licensed shop, not something you would do at home.

One thing to make sure is that the shop doesn't OVERCHARGE your system. Too much refrigerant strains the compressor and your AC won't be cold either.
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Old 06-12-2001, 02:30 PM
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I've noticed mine doesn't get especially cold either, it'll cool you off, but it takes forever to do it.

Dave: Give me a call or fire me off an email and we'll go bug a dealer about it.
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Old 06-12-2001, 03:15 PM
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I called Midas and they'll do an inspection for $30. If it needs a recharge it costs $100. Nissan said it would be $200 for everything and they said it shouldn't need a recharge if the system doesn't have a leak. The guy at Midas said BS, the R-134 doesn't have the shelf life of the old R-12. He said the R-134 is good for 4-6 years depending on the seals. He said all AC systems will loose some punch after a while. If your AC barely cools at all, then you've got problems. If it gets cool, then you probably need a recharge. I can't believe it, but I agree with the Midas guy on this one.


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Old 06-12-2001, 03:20 PM
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Originally posted by Dave B
I called Midas and they'll do an inspection for $30. If it needs a recharge it costs $100. Nissan said it would be $200 for everything and they said it shouldn't need a recharge if the system doesn't have a leak. The guy at Midas said BS, the R-134 doesn't have the shelf life of the old R-12. He said the R-134 is good for 4-6 years depending on the seals. He said all AC systems will loose some punch after a while. If your AC barely cools at all, then you've got problems. If it gets cool, then you probably need a recharge. I can't believe it, but I agree with the Midas guy on this one.


Dave
I had my AC recharged last month, it cost me $110 Canadian which is roughly 70 bucks US. It gets cold now.
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Old 06-12-2001, 05:18 PM
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older cars tend to do that

my dads car was a 94 and it did that, so you should probably go recharge the system, he did that too and it still wasn't cold, afterwards he changed his whole a/c system and now its cold as snow in summer time. good luck.
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Old 06-12-2001, 06:25 PM
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you can get a kit for like 30 bucks at pepboys or any auto parts store and put in the coolant and oil and everything, it come with a gauge and stuff and the coolant is like 3 bucks a can. cost you 40 bucks at most
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Old 06-12-2001, 08:49 PM
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Thanks Mike and others. The guy at Midas said that all seals will leak over time, some cars worse than others. However, he did say that R-134 does have different molecular make up and that it does loose it's ability to cool. SOunds to me like he was just half right.

I'll clean the "fins" outwards and check the water plug. If that doesn't help then I'll go get it checked out.

Maybe I'll check out the stuff at Pep Boys. I'd really like the gauge just to see what's going on and if the level is to low.


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Old 06-12-2001, 09:09 PM
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Originally posted by Dave B
Thanks Mike and others. The guy at Midas said that all seals will leak over time, some cars worse than others. However, he did say that R-134 does have different molecular make up and that it does loose it's ability to cool. SOunds to me like he was just half right.

I'll clean the "fins" outwards and check the water plug. If that doesn't help then I'll go get it checked out.

Maybe I'll check out the stuff at Pep Boys. I'd really like the gauge just to see what's going on and if the level is to low.

Dave
I have a friend with an R-134 gauge, I'll track it down and give you a call, maybe we can avoid spending any $$$.
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Old 06-12-2001, 09:13 PM
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Hey Dave, Russ has been trying to get ahold of ya. He said he sent you some emails, and tried to call.
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Old 06-12-2001, 09:32 PM
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id have it done professionally. The kits that stores sell are hokie pokie stuff. Besides, your system should be chcecked with manifold gauges, and system evacuated and recahrged, not juss adding refrigrant in. Moisture accumlates in the system and should be evacuated.
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Old 06-13-2001, 07:06 AM
  #12  
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GET IT DONE PROFESSIONALLY

Originally posted by Murphy_TX_Mike


The molecular structure of 134a is different than R12 (obvious). The problem with 134a (as I understand it), is that it is a smaller atom, thus a tendancy to leak easier through rubber fittings. In addition, it is harder on the compressor oil, resulting in oil breakdown/contamination.

There is a difference between charging and recharging. Charging is adding. Recharging is removing all oil from the system, vacuum down, and charging. If It were my car, and I were going to do this project, I would buy a new accumulator/drier, replace all o-rings, remove compressor, and drain the oil, flush the whole system with cleaner (available at an Automotive AC parts house).
I would recomend you get this done professionally, and I'll tell you why, my dad does this, he has all the equipment and he recharged my other car before and sometimes it's better to drain the whole system and make sure there are no leaks in it, they just drain the system and vacume it and see if it holds up, if it does then they put the new freon and you're all set. go have fun, if it does have system there is a thingy with a "nose" and if it sees a leak it will start beeping and tell the guy where the leak is, it's kinda cool



the reason for the new freon is that it's environmentally safe, the old ones would go into the atmosphere and in about 5 years reach and destroy the ozone levels, the new freon does not raise into the atmosphere high enough to cause any damage, just a little thing I learned from working at nasa's atmospheric research at langley, va
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Old 06-13-2001, 08:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally posted by Murphy_TX_Mike


The molecular structure of 134a is different than R12 (obvious). The problem with 134a (as I understand it), is that it is a smaller atom, thus a tendancy to leak easier through rubber fittings. In addition, it is harder on the compressor oil, resulting in oil breakdown/contamination.

That's exactly what the Midas guy said. Maybe he isn't full of crap.

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Old 06-13-2001, 10:15 PM
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Well guys, I did a simple test. I got hold of AC vent temperature gauge and got some readings. With the AC on setting 2 and the recirculate button engaged, I was getting readings in the 40-41 degree range from the center vents and about 43 degrees from the side vents while at a 40mph cruise. At stop idle I was getting 42 degrees. The weather was in the mid to upper 80s with about 60% humidity. I think this is about as good as she'll do. I don't think I need a recharge nor does my AC have problems because the AC temps fall within spec. My AC "radiator" is clean and the condenser box is clear of obstruction.

I've come to the conclusion that my problem is my car's color. It is super black with a black cloth interior with a sunroof. I think all these factors attribute to the problem of cooling the car. The AC works good, but it has to work overtime to cool the black car. My windows are tinted, but I may get the carbon/metallic tint like I had on my 94 Z28 in an attempt to reflect some rays....and go for a better look.


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