This may not sound good but I would like to know if anyone have a site or perhaps share of how to prep , paint and anything else, basicaly the DIY on how to paint. THX

 

Lots of DIY info here: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...mType=CATEGORY

 

No instructions, but I feel the most important element to painting is the preparation. Make sure that the surface is ready to be painted or it's pointless.

 

I would advise you to practice on something not valuable to you before trying to paint a car if that's what you intend on doing. It takes a lot of practice to become a good painter.

 

I agree. . . dont go trying out techinques on valuable parts.

 

This is totally OT but ZeroDeuce what is that on the front of your car?

 

It keeps the bugs off my paint and helps prevent rock chips. It's called a nose mask or bra.

 

do you use it on a daily basis?

 

As long as it doesn't get wet from rain I do.

 

Okay - thanks for the information Deuce.

 

aren't you worried about uneven fading of the paint?

 

You're most welcome Phat6.

 

Not at all. I used one on my previous 92 Max for the whole 10 years I owned it and that didn't happen. As long as you properly maintain the paint beneath the bra, fading will be kept to a minimum if it happens at all.

 

Plenty of info on these sites:
http://www.leopardsystems.com/paintucationforum/
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php

 

thx alot for your input
ps. im not painting my car im just repaiting a spiler thats all

 

In my oppinion, if you have ask, let a profesional do it.

 

I taught myself to do bodywork and paint on a succession of battered old sports cars that I restored. Your question is incomplete; it is not just painting, but the bodywork side that's important. Paint is 99% prep and 1% gun.
The problems are:
1. If you do not have a proper paint place you will have to spray outdoors and you risk insects, dust and crap settling on it. Also, I accidently oversprayed a neighbour's car once, two houses away, the breeze blew my paint downwind . . . had to buff the guy's car...
2. The solvents are really bad. You need a pressure-fed mask from a clean air supply. I am permanently sensitised to solvents now because I thought it was ok to spray outside without a pressure fed mask. Also you can absorb the stuff through your skin. The cyanoacrylates can turn your lungs into cement blocks.
3. The cost of the equipment is not cheap. You need to invest in a good compressor plus an extra moisture trap and preferably a dessicator, damp in the air causes blushing, not the look you want... then there is the cost of the spray gun (I used two, one only for primer/filler and one for topcoats) plus the air line and QD fittings.
4. You also need air sanders or a good belt sander and a buffing pad.
5. The prep takes a LOT of time to get right. Just because something is flat doesn't mean the topcoat will look good. Filler absorbs paint and any filled areas need repeated paint/sand/paint/sand before the telltale borders disappear.

On the other hand if you want to do murals, Metalflake(tm), and so forth, there is no substitute for learning to paint. The moment when you do the topcoat is pure Harry Potter. Wave the gun and junk becomes mirror finish paint. My best ever job was a Yamaha bike I had, I hand lettered the tank in gold leaf using characters based on martial arts positions, over a Metalflake Mirra flake base, and then 12 coats of clear lacquer, flatted and buffed. When the sunshine hit it, the whole bike exploded in rainbows of colour, used to attract chicks like nothing else. Then two weeks later I took a bend too fast and smashed it all up...