machining rotors?
machining rotors?
I was reading Hunter's website about machining rotors. This chart says ~2003+ Nissans require on-car lathing. Any input on this?
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/la...1T/5071T-5.htm
Jae
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/la...1T/5071T-5.htm
Jae
Originally Posted by Hunter engineering
Some vehicles are very “sensitive” to rotor runout. If most of the runout is not in the rotor…but, is caused by mounting surfaces at the vehicle, abnormal noise/vibration and pedal pulsation may be the result. A bench lathe can not address mounting induced runout.
The OCL machines the rotor in its “native environment”. Since the mating surface between the rotor and hub is not disturbed…this helps to ensure the friction surfaces are machined truly perpendicular to the wheel’s axis of rotation.
Additional tear down time for sport utility vehicles, light trucks…and some passenger cars with “captured rotors…” are virtually eliminated!
Rotor conditions will not improve over time. In fact, runout promotes thickness variations. On some vehicles, as little as .0005” thickness variation can lead to vibration and pedal pulsation complaints!
The OCL machines the rotor in its “native environment”. Since the mating surface between the rotor and hub is not disturbed…this helps to ensure the friction surfaces are machined truly perpendicular to the wheel’s axis of rotation.
Additional tear down time for sport utility vehicles, light trucks…and some passenger cars with “captured rotors…” are virtually eliminated!
Rotor conditions will not improve over time. In fact, runout promotes thickness variations. On some vehicles, as little as .0005” thickness variation can lead to vibration and pedal pulsation complaints!
Read the site guys...It pretty much explains why they need OCL...
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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The most accurate way to machine a rotor is while it's on the car.
That type of machining will assures that it runs true with the hub.
Most dealers use the on car brake lathe system. It's quicker and easier to machine the rotor that way plus it's more accurate.
That type of machining will assures that it runs true with the hub.
Most dealers use the on car brake lathe system. It's quicker and easier to machine the rotor that way plus it's more accurate.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,336
I just had that done on my vehicle. The initial results are very good. Only time will tell if that method prevents a re-occurance of slight warping of the rotors. Also by eliminating some 230kph to 0kph brake tests I will prolong their service life. 
CM
CM
I never understood why people cut warped rotors. Removing material increases the chances of warping them all over again. Also if you have a warping problem, try not to keep your foot on the brakes after a hard stop.
But +1 on on-car brake lathes being the best option.
But +1 on on-car brake lathes being the best option.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 460
If it's a frequent occurance then it may not be rotor runout but a pad issue. In a lot of cases the rotors are not warped but pad material has transfered to the rotor surface. The amount is far to small to discern by look or touch but enough to cause shudder just like a warped rotor. People generally have their rotors turned when, if the runout is within specs, it is not neccessary when changing pads. Buffing the rotors lightly with a piece of fine sandpaper is pretty much all that is needed.
I just looked at my 1997 FSM book (the 3" thick one). It says "If runout is still out of specification, turn rotor with on-car brake lateh ("MAD, DL-9700", "AMMCO 700 and 705" or equivalent)." I do my own brake work, but not sure where I can go (besides dealership) for this kinda thing, if I need it. Suggestions?
Jae
Jae
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