Today I decided to rotate my tires, to squeeze all the life out of the 235/40-18's that are on now, before resorting to the new rims in the basement. The fronts really wear much much much faster than the rears. That's how you know the FWD is working as designed.

I was looking at the RF brake caliper and thought, what a bunch of idiots in Japan designing an ABS sensor wire that rubs against the steering whosamathingy. Just plain dumb. Then I got to the LF and see that the wire is routed a different way, minimizing contact. So that's the correct way.

Since I got my axles replaced by the King last month, now I realize that jacka** didn't reinstall the ABS sensor wire correctly.

It just boggles my mind how these folks earn a living doing shoddy work like that. I know they don't earn a good living, but the auto repair business is on my list of least liked ones.

 

You should've known better...

 

There is no need to touch, move or even come close to the ABS wires or sensors to replace an axle.

I think you have blame placed in the wrong direction.

 

I looked on the web to see what the wire is rubbing against, and it's called the "Knuckle." Looks to me like that needs to be undone to do an axle. I also remember seeing brand new cotter pins and nuts where the wire is now rubbing. Since nobody has ever worked on the front end before, including brakes, and I have never removed the front calipers, I still conclude that Midas did it a month ago. It couldn't have gotten like that on its own, and if it came from the factory that way, the wire would have been cut long ago......blame on!

The other thing is that on the motovate.ca website, on his CV boot Removal and Replacement part 1, he states, "Remove the ABS sensor wire from the strut by gently pulling it off." And on his pics, the wire clearly runs above, not below the way it does on my RF. I'm really tempted to unplug the wire and relocate it, but I may take the car back....

 

I took a trip with a friend to Cali and her Pontaic Grand Prix started leaking water into the floor board. Took it to a dealer there, they said the drian got clogged by leaves and it could be fixed and we'd be on our way. Well on the way home the car starts overheating. BTW, it's almost 100 degrees outside coming back to Vegas from San Diego. So I have to shut off the ac and we're all roasting in this brand new car that just got fixed at the dealer. Get it home and the hose running from the radiator to the reservior bottle wasn't clipped into the little holder allowing it to get rubbed in half by the belt and thus loosing coolant. It's not just Midas that messes things up, it's the dealer too. I could be here all day posting about the Toyota dealership here that messed me over big time. It all boils down to the quality of people they hire. You also have the "Whoops!" factor which happens to all of us.

 

O/T: Doesn't McGyver have a "G"?

Regardless, it would be easier just to fix it yourself. Why give them a chance to screw up something else?

 

Yeah it's spelled wrong. Basically over in the old Delphi forums, the proper spelling of McGyver was taken even though it wasn't used in the circle of forums I was iinvolved in, so I went with the next best. So It stuck and now I use it for most of my stuff. It's too hard to remember "Now on the Maxima board do I spell it with or without a C? Or is that the truck board?" Anyway sorry to get Anyway, yes I prefer to fix stuff myself. This wasn't my car and plus this was years ago, I must have been 17 I think. I did not know didly about cars back then. Now I've increased my knowledge to the next level which is "not much." Maybe here soon I can make it to "At least knows there's no such thing as blinker fluid and exhaust bearings."

 

I prefer to fix things myself too, when practical. I feel things out on the web before attempting things I've never done before. And I've never bought into the "my time is worth $350/hr. at work, so it's worth $350/hr. at home" factor either. I don't feel like any less of a man saying that axles are beyond what I want to attempt myself at home, nor do I want to buy all the sockets needed for the job. The last person I saw who did it took only 15 min. to get the driver's side out, and 2 hours later he still couldn't get the pass. side out. and now we were talking about heating up bolts with torches. Not for me.

I'm also not going to change my belts myself either FYI. I'm 100% certain I could get them off, but installing the new ones and properly tensioning them, I've seen problems encountered by others on the fourm.

Moral of the story is know when to say when. Career-wise people who feel that have to do everything themselves tend not to go very far...let it go! hehe

 

we're talking about unplugging a connection and moving the wires 3", then replugging them here. Not an engine swap, guys. If you located the problem, why didn't you just fix it then? Taking it back would take more time and agrivation than it's worth.

Oh, and my time IS worth $350/hr at home since I work from there....

 

O/T

Bauer, how's it going?

Morning commute still a killer? Still having to swing by local coffee shop on way down hallway? Do they give you a break on pricing because you are a frequenter?

I often think back to when you wrote in and announced your switch. You still loving working 'with' the boss? As well as being married to her? I know I do!
Just checking on you and your work and motor progress............Onto Midas!


I usually use Goodyear for things I have no interest in attempting. They have been great to work with!

 

Everything's going great! I need to get back to work, though, or else the slave-driver will whip me again....

 

Said with a grin and a wink!

 

You're right, it's more aggravation than it's worth, with an a. I'm only paying you $299 due to your spelling.

I wasn't sure about the wire, but I ran it by my lawyer and he said that Midas is a big corp., I definitely have a case. Just kidding, I'm gonna move it myself on Fri. Tomorrow is golf day.

 

If your tires are rotated on a regular basis they will have even wear. At least that's been my experience. I replaced my OEM ties at 50,000 miles and each one had the same treadwear pattern with a few thousand miles left before the wearbars would contact the ground.