tclee

iTrader: (1)

heard that there is a mod for the throttle body...can someone pls post how to do it? or link to a past thread? or link to a website that describes how to do it?!

thanks in advance

Nismo87SE

All it will do is cause your idle to go crazy and you get no power benefits. But since my car is older it doesn't matter .

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Not only is this not really a recommended mod, wintertime is even a worse time to consider this.

Shingles

doesn't do much... all this is is making it so the coolant doesn't pass through the TB. coolants pass through the TB to make sure it doesn't freeze up in cold climates. this mod doesn't do much. If you live in a cold climate, DO NOT do this....

-shing

tclee

iTrader: (1)

ok....so bottom line is do not do it / does not work...etc! cool thanks anyways for advice!

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

<img src="http://www.cyberhosts.net/~gotrice/personal/60k/08.jpg">

I ripped mine off and bypassed it =)

Joe_R

I've done it and it does nothing but screw up your idle. Not worth it in my opinion.

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

removal of the hosing has nothing to do with the idle effects. There is something else wrong with your car.. like the idle air control unit, air regulatore, vacuum leak, etc

Keven97SE

The reason why the idle goes haywire (and really only when the temperatures start to get cool/cold) is because there's a fast idle cold-engine mechanism beneath the main throttle cam (where the cables attach to the throttle body). This mechanism is actuated by a thermostat/piston unit that adjusts the close/stop position of the throttle cam. When the throttle body is cold, this thermostat pushes the piston out so that the throttle stop moves out and keeps the throttle from closing all the way...hence, your idle stays high. When the TB warms up (like it's supposed to), the mechanism relaxes and allows the throttle to fully close.

You can adjust this mechanism via a screw/nut on the throttle cam that adjusts where the fast idle mechanism engages the throttle. The only problem is that you may have to adjust this mechanism so much that you'll lose the cold-engine fast idle that you really need, and the engine may stall when cold.

It's too bad, because when I drove my car for ~6 months with that TB coolant bypass (awhile back), the car ran absolutely fine with no more crud buildup in the TB than usual. The coolant probably really isn't needed there, but unfortunately the fast idle mechanism gets screwed up when you bypass it, and that is fast idle feature really is important.

Joe_R

True, but there were occassions where the car had been running for some time, and the idle raced for no apparent reason. In fact one time I specificall remember was when driving to work on I95. It's about a 12 mile drive that takes 20-25 minutes reaching speads of 80mph. No problems out of the neighborhood and through two lights to I95. 10 miles later, I was getting off the exit, let off the gas and the idle went nuts. By then, I new the fix was to put it in N, shut the ignition off, then restart. No problems after that the rest of the way to work. This happened more than once with a warm engine.

Keven97SE

Well, there may be other things going on than I thought...but the fast idle mechanism is a major contributor to the problem.

Irregardless, there's obviously a lot of idle controls that go screwy with the TB coolant bypassed. Instead of working on some convoluded solution, why not just hook the coolant back up and deal with the loss of whatever meager gains the bypass may have provided?