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Attn Bill / Brake Pad Break In

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Old 08-06-2001, 05:11 PM
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There have been a lot of brake discussions lately, but I went ahead and purchased Axxis Metal Masters, Goodridge SS Lines, and Slotted rotors. My question to everyone is do you recommend breaking in the pads on the stock rotors first and then installing the rotors or would you install everything at the same time and just do one break in? I want to do a good break in on my pads as well as on my rotors, but it seems hard to do that at the same time.
Any suggestions appreciated.
-hype
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Old 08-06-2001, 06:25 PM
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You should break in the pads with the new rotors. I followed Stillen's break-in process. Right after the install, I found an empty parking lot and drove at about 5 mph and bring the car to a stop with light pressure on the brake pedal. I did this for a bout 15 minutes with cool downs of a minute between sessions.
My rotor were coated with an anti-rusting agent so they made much noise when I was braking them in at the lot. When they quieted down some, I drove around running my errands but keeping my speed around 35 driving in the streets. Everytime I braked to stop for a light or stop sign, I braked early to prevent high heat to the rotors which will cause "hot spots" on the surface of the rotor which you will feel when braking.
Take your time and be easy one them for the first 300 miles.
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Old 08-06-2001, 07:19 PM
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Thanks for the reply Deezo, but that's what confuses me the most. Rotor break in says to keep it easy for the first ~300 miles, but pad break in usually says to heat up the pads so that the compound becomes harder. When I hear pad break in it says ~5 60-0mph stops with cooling in between, but that's the total opposite of keeping the rotors cool :P
-hype
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Old 08-06-2001, 07:31 PM
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Originally posted by xHypex
Thanks for the reply Deezo, but that's what confuses me the most. Rotor break in says to keep it easy for the first ~300 miles, but pad break in usually says to heat up the pads so that the compound becomes harder. When I hear pad break in it says ~5 60-0mph stops with cooling in between, but that's the total opposite of keeping the rotors cool :P
-hype
That's the method I use and recommend. You want to heat cycle the rotor to prevent warping, but you still want to avoid heating them too much initially. I've used this method numerous times and have never had warping or cracking problems.
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Old 08-06-2001, 10:09 PM
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Wow, i will need to knwo this when i get my new brakes. Thanks.

Phuong just give em to me. jOO know... the goods. Free is a good thign right> hehe. I can promote your y-pipe knocking off 1 full second for me.

Seriously i will be getting them soon. Or at least trying. Damn banks take forever clearing checks!
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Old 08-06-2001, 10:11 PM
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Originally posted by got rice?


That's the method I use and recommend. You want to heat cycle the rotor to prevent warping, but you still want to avoid heating them too much initially. I've used this method numerous times and have never had warping or cracking problems.
method i used as well
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Old 08-07-2001, 11:23 AM
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I don't know what the other companies say about their braking in their rotors but make sure with whatever method you use, let them cool down during the process.
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Old 08-07-2001, 01:04 PM
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Originally posted by deezo
I don't know what the other companies say about their braking in their rotors but make sure with whatever method you use, let them cool down during the process.
How do you know they're really cooling down? Isn't the pad always in contact with the rotor while driving, just very lightly? I'd think that, while the heat much less than when braking, it's still very hot. Probably too hot to touch. I doubt much air circulates freely inside the rims.
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Old 08-07-2001, 01:12 PM
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Originally posted by xHypex
There have been a lot of brake discussions lately, but I went ahead and purchased Axxis Metal Masters, Goodridge SS Lines, and Slotted rotors. My question to everyone is do you recommend breaking in the pads on the stock rotors first and then installing the rotors or would you install everything at the same time and just do one break in? I want to do a good break in on my pads as well as on my rotors, but it seems hard to do that at the same time.
Any suggestions appreciated.
-hype
all I have to say is that AXXIS METAL MASTERS SUCK,
1) squick
2) dust like there is no tomorrow
3) when I was "breaking" them in, on the 6th brake, they started "smoking", literally brake dust was coming from the sides of the front wheels
4) if you brake hard couple of times and they heat up, the braker power goes DOWN
5) i have them and I autocross my car, I would never ever ever recomend this piece of crap, if you invested $ for rotor you might as well get pads which brake better when they get hot

just my .2 cents, but I'm very disapointed with the axxis pads
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Old 08-07-2001, 01:42 PM
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Originally posted by Maxwell


How do you know they're really cooling down? Isn't the pad always in contact with the rotor while driving, just very lightly? I'd think that, while the heat much less than when braking, it's still very hot. Probably too hot to touch. I doubt much air circulates freely inside the rims.
I think of it this way, what is hot to us may not be hot to the rotor. Rotors can pack very high temperature and if they are vented, drilled and slotted, they will release the heat quicker than a normal rotor.

Friction causes heat temperatures to build up on rotors so they can't be cooler when braking. Just look at the rotors on F1 or GT1 race cars when they are braking. The rotors glow orange when braking from high speeds.

Air is everywhere so I don't think the rotors would have a problem with cooling.
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Old 08-07-2001, 01:48 PM
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Originally posted by Maxwell


How do you know they're really cooling down? Isn't the pad always in contact with the rotor while driving, just very lightly? I'd think that, while the heat much less than when braking, it's still very hot. Probably too hot to touch. I doubt much air circulates freely inside the rims.

no, the pads DO NOT TOUCH the rotors while the car is in motion, that would not make sense, otherwise if you're driving on the highway for 1-2 hours the pads would start smoking, pads are extremely close to the rotors but they are not touching
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Old 08-07-2001, 02:38 PM
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Originally posted by Vinipux


all I have to say is that AXXIS METAL MASTERS SUCK,
1) squick
2) dust like there is no tomorrow
3) when I was "breaking" them in, on the 6th brake, they started "smoking", literally brake dust was coming from the sides of the front wheels
4) if you brake hard couple of times and they heat up, the braker power goes DOWN
5) i have them and I autocross my car, I would never ever ever recomend this piece of crap, if you invested $ for rotor you might as well get pads which brake better when they get hot

just my .2 cents, but I'm very disapointed with the axxis pads

Read my reply to the other thread
1) I've had the Axxis MM on three vehicles - never squeeked. I even put them on my mom's Accord.. never squeeked.
2) I go 400-600 miles before I clean my wheels...
3) that smoke is normal.. you're suppose to stop the initial break-in once you finally get them to smoke.
4) In my 300ZX I've done 140-70 mph numerous times on the highway and never felt fade. I've done 100 mph down to 20 mph at the drag strip numerous times.. never felt fade.
5) I've put 70+ autoX runs this year alone and never have problems.
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Old 08-08-2001, 04:42 AM
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Originally posted by got rice?



Read my reply to the other thread
1) I've had the Axxis MM on three vehicles - never squeeked. I even put them on my mom's Accord.. never squeeked.
2) I go 400-600 miles before I clean my wheels...
3) that smoke is normal.. you're suppose to stop the initial break-in once you finally get them to smoke.
4) In my 300ZX I've done 140-70 mph numerous times on the highway and never felt fade. I've done 100 mph down to 20 mph at the drag strip numerous times.. never felt fade.
5) I've put 70+ autoX runs this year alone and never have problems.
Vinipux is not the only one with these complaints. AndyXXL almost rearended me on the highway going to a meet. Some guy cut me off and I had to slow down very quickly. He complained about the fade and he wanted to go back to the originals or the matrix pads.
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Old 08-08-2001, 05:42 AM
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Originally posted by got rice?



Read my reply to the other thread
1) I've had the Axxis MM on three vehicles - never squeeked. I even put them on my mom's Accord.. never squeeked.
2) I go 400-600 miles before I clean my wheels...
3) that smoke is normal.. you're suppose to stop the initial break-in once you finally get them to smoke.
4) In my 300ZX I've done 140-70 mph numerous times on the highway and never felt fade. I've done 100 mph down to 20 mph at the drag strip numerous times.. never felt fade.
5) I've put 70+ autoX runs this year alone and never have problems.
I don't know man, I was showing my fellow maxima.org friend my suspension yesterday and I broke hard only 2-3 times, and the brake was making a weird noise, I mean, everytime it's a mystery, plus, about the squicking, ask AndyXXL, we drive to work every day and when I drive my car in traffic, he always gets ****ed off and tells me to get new brakes because they squick like there is no tomorrow, and I run autoX also, and on the 3rd run I can feel that the brakes aren't as good as they were on the 1st run
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Old 08-08-2001, 07:26 AM
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AN IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT "METAL MASTER" PADS:

If you got these from carparts.com or some other related site like that, you MAY have gotten the BECK ARNLEY Metal Master pads instead of the Axxis ones. Why Beck Arnley is allowed to label their pads like that I don't know. Unless the outside of you box literally said "Axxis" on them, you may have gotten these Beck Arnley pads.

Member Matt93SE had an unfortunate experience with these pads at LAST year's Maxus in Atlanta. His experience mimics what is reported by the two members here. If you are further curious, send him a PM or e-mail and he can help you out further.

I still contend that both of you did not receive true Axxis Metal Master pads.
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Old 08-08-2001, 10:02 AM
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Originally posted by bill99gxe
AN IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT "METAL MASTER" PADS:

If you got these from carparts.com or some other related site like that, you MAY have gotten the BECK ARNLEY Metal Master pads instead of the Axxis ones. Why Beck Arnley is allowed to label their pads like that I don't know. Unless the outside of you box literally said "Axxis" on them, you may have gotten these Beck Arnley pads.

Member Matt93SE had an unfortunate experience with these pads at LAST year's Maxus in Atlanta. His experience mimics what is reported by the two members here. If you are further curious, send him a PM or e-mail and he can help you out further.

I still contend that both of you did not receive true Axxis Metal Master pads.
well, I didn't get them from carparts, I got them from the "rice" website, and they did say Axxis on them, either way, I'm either going to wait till I wear them out, hopefully it shouldn't be that long and get real racing pads
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Old 08-08-2001, 02:56 PM
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I guess the Beck Anrley Metal Masters arent any good? The semi-metallic ones i mean. Maybe i should return them?
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Old 08-09-2001, 05:39 AM
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Originally posted by Synki
I guess the Beck Anrley Metal Masters arent any good? The semi-metallic ones i mean. Maybe i should return them?
yeah, I would, buy either stock or portifier (spelling)

good luck
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Old 08-09-2001, 06:47 AM
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Originally posted by Synki
I guess the Beck Anrley Metal Masters arent any good? The semi-metallic ones i mean. Maybe i should return them?
From what Matt93SE has stated, I wouldn't use them if you do any hard braking. He was real ticked about them labeling the pads as "Metal Masters". Seems illegal to me as well.

Here is a post by Matt detailing his thoughts:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=beck+arnley
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