With all the best mods out there
say:
CAI, ypipe, underdrivepulleys, uprd ecu, S-AFC, custom full exhaust, 30lb wheel tire combo that sticks! <---err...is this valid?
humm...can we see a 13.x NA Max?...oh yeah...running 93octane..street tire not drag slicks...

 

You are not going to see a 13 second NA max with those mods. Low 14's maybe but not 13s. Get some cams, headwork, and ECU I think it is possible.. but not on street tires... gonna need drag radials.

I mean you will have zero traction. For example, right now in my crx, if I shift hard into 2nd, it will literally light up the tires for a good second or two *in* 2nd gear. And this is with only probably 150-160hp to the wheels. You figure on a maxima with more torque and probably 225hp to the wheels, street tires arn't going to hold.

-Shing

 

With all the mods listed above and drag radials, I think it would be very possible for a Max to hit 13s. If this UPRD ECU really is as good as some say, then the Max is gonna fly. It's crazy to think a NA V6 sedan is capable of such good ets. Jeff ran 14.3s@95mph in his Max with drag radials. He never ran in cold weather to see how he would have done. I bet he would have been damn close. All he had was a JWT ECU, CAI, Y-pipe, catback, drag radials, and spring blockers in the rear. Pretty minimal stuff if you ask me.

Like Shing said, you won't see 13s on street tires with a Max due to fwd's launching limitations. It's all in the 60 foot and many of us aren't getting good launches (me included).

Dave

 

13s in a NA maxima is gonnnnnnaa be reallllllllly realllllly hard with just those mods.

try getting a FED spec 95 se 5spd, adding a LSD to grip the ground, stripping the car of everything need less, fiberglass the whole front end, larger thottle body, bore and polish the heads, cams, and really good driving skillz, then maybe like 13.8-13.9.

yeah. i think Jeff K was the closest to 13s but, hence he sold MegaMax.

good luck.
but the real test of driving ability isn't 1/4 mile. it's road racing.....

anyone with alot of money can do a 1/4 mi... but put that NOS'd drag racer on a road course and ha! good luck.

 

=D
I said N/A...no Nitro
=]
hehe...yeah...that would be pretty darn impressive for a an N/A max pulling a steady 13.x time on street setup (not drag)..
humm...
Maxima...the legend continues.....
PS:
unfortunately mine is a 95 fed spec SE (not cali) .
.
.
.
autostick....arggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

First things first, if you have a UPRD ECU, there is no need for the S-AFC. Now, bolt-ons other than a supercharger aren't going to get you into the 13s. In order to do that you're going to have to change the characteristics of the engine. Let's not forget its still meant to be a "luxury" type car. Opening it up a little by port and polishing will help it be a little more responsive, but you will have to get more aggresive cams for the engine to really shine. getting a lighter flywheel will help acceleration by letting it rev quicker. Also some performance lifters, and an aluminum crankshaft will help it gain a little more torque. By doing this to a 5-speed, you may see around 13.7-13.9

 

Hmm...

Custom CAI, cams, y-pipe (better yet, custom headers), RT cat (better yet, straight pipe), cat-back exhaust, ECU and drag radials should bring high 13's on the following conditions:

- crazy driver. Ability to do a good 60' time is critical.
- Custom CAI (try 2.5", 3", 3.5" for best power)-- I suspect Place Racing's 3" is close to ideal, but not sure. The SE-R guys have experimented with this and found gains by going to smaller 2.5" piping (Hotshot CAI), but keep in mind they have smaller engines than we do.
- Custom ECU (URPD, JWT, or other): need every bit of HP and torque you can get.
- Cams: must.

Not sure about lightening or headwork. Might be needed, might not be. Someone find out!

Cheston already said the rest.

 

Excuse me Nightrider but I have never heard of an aluminum crankshaft. Steel yes but aluminum no. Anyway aluminum would be lighter and thus reduce torque (since tq is a function of rotational mass) although it would positively sing in the high revs!!! I also think such a piece would be a custom job and cost like 1,000,000,000,000 bucks or so.

 

Don't think your claim is correct. According to your logic, a lighten flywheel will reduce the torque? Doubt it. Given the same bore, your stroke is going to determine your torque output... given the same bore, increasing the stroke will increase the displacement... more displacement equals more torque, etc. etc... I have never heard that a light(er) crankshaft will reduce torque. Please justify your answer. I am curious, maybe it's just me...

-Shing


[Edited by Shingles on 10-24-2000 at 10:20 PM]

 

It's gonna be nearly impossible to run a 13 with your auto. Get new TC and valve body upgrade. Without that you wont even be close. 5-speed could do it with some major work no doubt.


92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.

 

13's NA is very possible you juss gotta get a good setup and good tuning. In NA, you find the most power in the heads. Everyone doubted Honda's when they first started being modded. But lots of tuning and right combination and their running 11's and 10's NA. Dont be listening to people saying its near impossible. Im not saying its gonna be easy, but its very possible. Before i did my turbo and since its was never done on a 4th gen, alot of people called a *****, internet liar and many other names. Now where are they now??? Juss do it! heheh..

 

Replying to Shingles here. No car has ever had an aluminum crankshaft. I was sort of jabbing NightRider (in the most friendly of ways man). Most cranks are iron (in the good old days) or steel (in the good new days). Forged steel is as good as it gets. Now torque IS influenced by mass hence big cube engines make big torque with crap for hp. Now reducing rotational mass via a flywheel or such will increase the responsiveness of the motor (less inertia to overcome) but on a dyno the low end power is slightly less. The torque increase comes in at high rpm where you have more compression strokes in a given time interval and HP=TORQUE X RPM/5252. The bottom line is this: In the real world you will notice increased responsiveness. You won't miss the little bit of torque you've lost in lower gears because there is enough leverage to easily overcome it and you pass up low rpm quickly. On the highway or any other time you are in a higher gear at relatively low rpm the car will be down a bit but just downshift and fly away. I hope this made some sense to you all and I thank you for listening.

 

Get a 4th-gen, Strengthen the bottom end of a VQ30DE-K, raise the redline to ~ 7500, add forged pistons, cams, full intake/exhaust, ported & polished cylinder head, good ecu programming, bulletproof clutch, get to the track on a cool day, use slicks/drag radials...

Sounds like a recipe for 13's to me

It'd be a heck of alot easier to hit if you dropped in a VQ35, though.

Either way, I think it can be done.