I love manually shifting my automagic. It tides me over till I get a 5spd conversion. Anyways, does this act of shifting from 1st, into 2nd, into drive really quicken you ?? I've heard mixed things, but no definate answer. What do you guys think ?

 

gives you the closest feeling to what us 5spd Drivers do

 

THis kinda of shifting does wonders!!!

Sorry to inform you, but there is no faster way of shifting an auto, other then pressing the gas and let it ride.

Or you can get a VB mods, and your shifts will fly

 

It lowered my 1/8 and 1/4 ETs plus raised my trapspeeds. However mine was an 87 max, your results may differ. But yes it does help .

 

HEY, how do you know it does nothing ??

 

Without the VB mod, manually shifting is the way to go if you're racing. I only left in Drive one time the last time I was at the track. I got a 16.0, I think the time should be a bit lower because I hestitated off the line. Anyway, the next time I manually shifted and got a 15.8. Later in the night, I got my best time of 15.5, so I guess manually shifting worked. Now, that I got the VB mod, I don't there's a need to manually shift. I tried to manually shift now with the VB and I can tell it's better to leave in Drive. However, if you don't have the VB, then maybe manually shifting is the way to go. I just wish someone else here has tested this theory at the track. Any similar result like mine?

 

I love putting it in second and listening to the intake grown Anyways I think it does help a little considering you can redline it rather than it shifting at 6100. I have raced people twice and come out better manual shifting.

 

it doesn't seem fun to shift like that

 

If you think about it, what does shifing manual do that the autoshifthing doesnt, Nothing. If you shift a automatic manual at redline it actually doesnt do much more then letting it shift. If you bring it to redline its just a waste of time, because the car reaches peak hp, at 5600rpm after that it really doesnt do anything.

 

i raced another maxima and he was manually shifting...we got the same times

 

exactly my point, I dont really think it helps.

 

The only way to know is the same maxima, same day at the track, back to back runs...One time leaving it in D and another time shifting manually. I don't know if it would really do anything or not, I wouldn't think so.

PJ

 

The car will still pull after 5600 rpms, it is not like the car stops pulling at that point. I do see what you are saying about peak hp, but will your times actually be faster if you shift around 5600 rather than let it go to redline?

 

i dont get it how do you shift an auto manually?i've asked this before got no answer please fill me in.

 

What the hell are you talkin about? I thought you were pro-auto?

 

DEEZO...where, uh, did you come from ?

 

start in 1, then shift to 2, then shift to D

 

isnt 1 for going down hills and 2 for going uphills.why would you want manually shift threw these gears if you are racing?i doubt that this does anything i'll stick to just flooring it.

 

anyway, I know it has power after 5600 but its not useful power, I guess

Ok I'll shut up now

 

our 5TH GENS max hp comes in at 6100 or 6600 i forget, and the tranny shifts around 6000rpms. thats not good. with manual shifting, i shift around 6300-6400rpms.. sometimes 6600, i dont know why.

 

Here is the problem, if you let the auto shift. The upshifts occur at 5600-5900 tops. Everyone must remember that the stock tach reads 200-300rpm faster than the engine is actually spinning. From what I have read from 5spd guys with shift lights this is accurate. Now the optimal shifts points from car test are (I used a bone stock automagic GXE for the power curve). Its 6300rpm 1-2, 6100rpm 2-3, 6000rpm 3-4. Now with 5800-5900rpm shift points for all 3 shifts you lose 1 tenths 0-60 and 1 tenth in the 1/4. I'm betting a later 1-2 shift would drop the 1/8 mile ET by a tenth alone. But then again this is data for cartest, so everyone else will have to try different shift points. If I had a 4th gen automagic I'd try shifting at an indicated 6500-6600rpm 1-2, 6300-6400rpm 2-3. Either way with trapspeeds between 87-89mph you only be at 4400-4500rpm at the finish line.

 

1 = first gear
2 = second gear
D = third and overdrive

when you floor it, the tranny is doing the exact same thing as when you shift it manually. the thing about shifting manually is that you get to control when you shift, so you can shift at redline if you want to, instead of 3500 RPM or whatever

 

you're right but if you shift @ ~5700 you'll end up in the high 3000s rpm in the next gear, I notice that it really lags till you get to 4000rpm. If I manually shift first @ redline, I'll end up with abt 4200rpm in second gear.

 

1(dink), 2(dink), D.......i was quicker with manual.....but doesnt make up for my imaginary 5 speed

 

imaginary 5 spd...... hmm... do you pretend the foot rest is the clutch? i know i would

 

interesting... i was curious about this as well and was going to post it until i saw it is already here. cool.

 

you are correct sir. next time you want to try this leave it in D with od ON. and floor it from a dead stop. and then shift manually next. the shift points will ONLY change if you shift past REDLINE. I hav a 97 SE auto and have been looking at this for awhile. and you would be better feathering the gas at lke 5900 or so to put you in a better part of your torque curve when you shift. but this is my 2 cents.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Nismo87SE
[B]Here is the problem, if you let the auto shift. The upshifts occur at 5600-5900 tops.

ME: my tach reads redline when it shifts when it is WOT, however i HAVE 18's, so this might change things.


Now the optimal shifts points from car test are (I used a bone stock automagic GXE for the power curve). Its 6300rpm 1-2, 6100rpm 2-3, 6000rpm 3-4.

ME: my car is a 97 SE with a CAI,y-pipe,hi flow cat, b-pipe, muffler and looking at my dyno sheets , i produce max TQ at 5000 rpms and max HP at 5250 rpms. when i shift at 6300 rpms on the tach, i come back to about 4150 rpms, that is in the middle of MY TQ curve at 170 ft lbs. i have about 1000 rpms before it where it starts at 160 ft lbs. and then about 1000 rpms after where it gains about 10 ft lbs to 180. i thought that you would want a broad of TQ curve as possible? maybe i am wrong

I have NEVER taken my car to a track and this is all DYNO numbers , but i think the shift points should be changed DEPENDING on what your mods are and what your dyno sheets read.

but nismo87 se, you might have done more testing than i on the STOCK car. i think this issue needs further review. and i think the VB mod helps , but it is only part of the solution. i will come back to hacking into the ECU and changing shift points and other things but i have babbled enough

 

ME: my tach reads redline when it shifts when it is WOT, however i HAVE 18's, so this might change things.

The 18s should just increase/decrease the speed of each gear. I don't know if they would cause the engine to shift at a later rpm.

ME: my car is a 97 SE with a CAI,y-pipe,hi flow cat, b-pipe, muffler and looking at my dyno sheets , i produce max TQ at 5000 rpms and max HP at 5250 rpms. when i shift at 6300 rpms on the tach, i come back to about 4150 rpms, that is in the middle of MY TQ curve at 170 ft lbs. i have about 1000 rpms before it where it starts at 160 ft lbs. and then about 1000 rpms after where it gains about 10 ft lbs to 180. i thought that you would want a broad of TQ curve as possible? maybe i am wrong

I've changed the torque peak to 5000rpm vs 4600rpm where it was before. The shift points changed to 6500rpm 1-2, 6500rpm 2-3 assuming a 6500rpm rev limiter. Also that is a pretty strong torque curve. Judging by the peak in torque, you would want to shift 1st and 2nd right at or 100rpm before the rev limiter kicks in.

I have NEVER taken my car to a track and this is all DYNO numbers , but i think the shift points should be changed DEPENDING on what your mods are and what your dyno sheets read.

I also agree with you on this. I've noticed that VQ's with CAI's tend to peak hp earlier than SI/pop style intakes. However the torque peak is about 100-300rpm later on average too.

but nismo87 se, you might have done more testing than i on the STOCK car. i think this issue needs further review. and i think the VB mod helps , but it is only part of the solution. i will come back to hacking into the ECU and changing shift points and other things but i have babbled enough

I believe JWT offers a reprogrammed TCU which changes the shift points and other stuff. I believe more info on the JWT TCU is on http://www.cattman.com/ecu.shtml#automatic. If possible you should look into the G-force or JWT ECU. In dyno tests the ECU was worth about 5-9fwtq average between 3000-5000rpm. This would no doubt make the automagics accelerate alot faster.

 

yea i pretend i have a clutch.....am i a poser?

 

get my mail?

 

check your PM.

 

Thanks. Just emailed you.

 

You've got mail.

 

I believe JWT offers a reprogrammed TCU which changes the shift points and other stuff. I believe more info on the JWT TCU is on http://www.cattman.com/ecu.shtml#automatic. If possible you should look into the G-force or JWT ECU. In dyno tests the ECU was worth about 5-9fwtq average between 3000-5000rpm. This would no doubt make the automagics accelerate alot faster. [/B][/QUOTE]

the TCU is only for a 1996 and down along with the ECU. i have a 97. do you think it will work? i know some people have put in the 96 ECU into 97's but i don't wanna half a$$ my car. it's got 101,xxx miles on it and i would like to see 200,000 with lots of upgrades. i am working on what you asked for by the way. who knows maybe we as a group can come up with a good fix for this.

 

After school, I will download the newer version of Cartest and run the car several times manually shifting it and letting it ride. I will see the results and post the times when I finish.

 

the TCU is only for a 1996 and down along with the ECU. i have a 97. do you think it will work? i know some people have put in the 96 ECU into 97's but i don't wanna half a$$ my car. it's got 101,xxx miles on it and i would like to see 200,000 with lots of upgrades. i am working on what you asked for by the way. who knows maybe we as a group can come up with a good fix for this. [/B][/QUOTE]

The 96 ECU will work in a 97 Fed spec maxima. Last year Biomax dyno tested the 95 vs 97 ECU back to back (no difference in power) and the 95 JWT ECU vs 97 ECU. The JWT ECU gained an average of 5hp/7tq from 3000-5000rpm and gave a rev limiter of 6900rpm (which helped him on the autox). I still have his dyno charts and excel spreadsheet if anyone wants to view them.

 

where can I get teh new version? I have the old MS dos version

 

What is Cartest, and where can I get it? Does it cost anything?