View Poll Results: What problems has your tranny had?
Needed a complely rebuilt transmission
52
18.91%
Is suffering from bearing failure
45
16.36%
Is positively suffering from another failure, but no total rebuild needed
7
2.55%
Suspect problem (leak, noise, shavings)
58
21.09%
No problems
113
41.09%
Voters: 275. You may not vote on this poll
So how many here have or suspect 5 speed transmission problems on 4th gen?
Originally Posted by VQuick
Dave, I apologize for my post...it was unnecessary and ad hominem. Sorry.
I just don't think when people post "that's a stupid question" it's helping anything. If it's so stupid, don't waste your time on that post and move on. Chill out a bit and you'll avoid the childish displays that no one wants to read.
I just don't think when people post "that's a stupid question" it's helping anything. If it's so stupid, don't waste your time on that post and move on. Chill out a bit and you'll avoid the childish displays that no one wants to read.
Add me to the list. 1998 with 90K. I have not been overly abusive to this car at all. It started leaking a couple of months ago and its been confirmed that the diff. bearings are worn. I don't have the $ for a new or used trans. at this point and I haven't found anyone that wants to rebuild it. I may trade it in or I may keep filling it with gear oil until I can afford a junkyard trans. They're going for anywhere between $800-1250 and I'll always be worried that the same thing will happen to that transmission too.
Ive heard there will be a problem with the positioning of the shifter if I switch to a 00-01 transmission. Is that true? Has anybody thought that these transmissions might have problems too, but they aren't old enough yet for it to become apparent?
Go back and read the whole thread...post 101 talks about the shimming problems and there are others.
My personal suspicion is that Nissan probably fixed the shimming problem by 2000 but who knows. In any case, the only real way to fix the problem for good is to rebuild it yourself or tell the shop exactly the shimming/preload specs you need. There's a ton of information on the Org about this but I've only skimmed it since my tranny is fine.
My personal suspicion is that Nissan probably fixed the shimming problem by 2000 but who knows. In any case, the only real way to fix the problem for good is to rebuild it yourself or tell the shop exactly the shimming/preload specs you need. There's a ton of information on the Org about this but I've only skimmed it since my tranny is fine.
Well it has been a week since I replaced the axle seal and its not leaking yet. I shined a flashlight in there when I had the axle out and visually confirmed that bearings are failing. Just a matter of time till it leaks again. Hopefully I find a good 00-01 tranny before then. Im still worried about the shifter sitting back further if I use a one of those trannys in my 4th gen? If the shifter sits an extra inch further back, how exactly would you get it into 2nd and 4th gear? Anybody with a 5th gen manual tranny in their 4th gen?
The actual shifter is in the same place. It is the shift **** that is positioned an inch behind. People with STS (most move shifting motion forward) or short arm reaches will love the change. If you sometimes feel like throwing it into 5th is a bit of a stretch, the 5th gen tranny will benefit you. Especially, if you are tall and put the seat back to accomodate your legs, it better now having the shifting area be a little more toward you. I can only see it being bad if you feel the stock position is a little too close to you as is or is "perfect" and you don't want the shifting action being done close to you than it already is.
If your tranny is currently leaking very slowly with the new seal, potentially, you can go another 15k or so before they get totally shot. Just periodically check the tranny oil level and top it off as needed.
The other possibility to save money is to drop the tranny yourself and bring in the tranny for bearing replacement at a shop. I remember reading that someone did this and it only cost a few hundred (I'd like to say $300-400 if memory serves). Even if you buy the shop a shim kit, they may not bother with testing preload and using the shims though--they may do what most shops would do which is just shove in the old shims. It is anyone's guess how long that would last--sometimes short, sometimes way longer than you will probably keep the car for. To reduce downtime, you might want to find another donor tranny that a shop can repair while you drive your car around. Too bad you're not in Cleveland because my old tranny (no other problem but shot bearings) would be yours for the taking...
If your tranny is currently leaking very slowly with the new seal, potentially, you can go another 15k or so before they get totally shot. Just periodically check the tranny oil level and top it off as needed.
The other possibility to save money is to drop the tranny yourself and bring in the tranny for bearing replacement at a shop. I remember reading that someone did this and it only cost a few hundred (I'd like to say $300-400 if memory serves). Even if you buy the shop a shim kit, they may not bother with testing preload and using the shims though--they may do what most shops would do which is just shove in the old shims. It is anyone's guess how long that would last--sometimes short, sometimes way longer than you will probably keep the car for. To reduce downtime, you might want to find another donor tranny that a shop can repair while you drive your car around. Too bad you're not in Cleveland because my old tranny (no other problem but shot bearings) would be yours for the taking...
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
The actual shifter is in the same place. It is the shift **** that is positioned an inch behind. People with STS (most move shifting motion forward) or short arm reaches will love the change. If you sometimes feel like throwing it into 5th is a bit of a stretch, the 5th gen tranny will benefit you. Especially, if you are tall and put the seat back to accomodate your legs, it better now having the shifting area be a little more toward you. I can only see it being bad if you feel the stock position is a little too close to you as is or is "perfect" and you don't want the shifting action being done close to you than it already is.
If your tranny is currently leaking very slowly with the new seal, potentially, you can go another 15k or so before they get totally shot. Just periodically check the tranny oil level and top it off as needed.
The other possibility to save money is to drop the tranny yourself and bring in the tranny for bearing replacement at a shop. I remember reading that someone did this and it only cost a few hundred (I'd like to say $300-400 if memory serves). Even if you buy the shop a shim kit, they may not bother with testing preload and using the shims though--they may do what most shops would do which is just shove in the old shims. It is anyone's guess how long that would last--sometimes short, sometimes way longer than you will probably keep the car for. To reduce downtime, you might want to find another donor tranny that a shop can repair while you drive your car around. Too bad you're not in Cleveland because my old tranny (no other problem but shot bearings) would be yours for the taking...
If your tranny is currently leaking very slowly with the new seal, potentially, you can go another 15k or so before they get totally shot. Just periodically check the tranny oil level and top it off as needed.
The other possibility to save money is to drop the tranny yourself and bring in the tranny for bearing replacement at a shop. I remember reading that someone did this and it only cost a few hundred (I'd like to say $300-400 if memory serves). Even if you buy the shop a shim kit, they may not bother with testing preload and using the shims though--they may do what most shops would do which is just shove in the old shims. It is anyone's guess how long that would last--sometimes short, sometimes way longer than you will probably keep the car for. To reduce downtime, you might want to find another donor tranny that a shop can repair while you drive your car around. Too bad you're not in Cleveland because my old tranny (no other problem but shot bearings) would be yours for the taking...
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,187
My 95SE, 5-speed, is a low-miler and has LSD as its built for the Canadian market. I'm not concerned about the dreaded differential bearing failure, frequently noticed by 95/96s, but I have a slight leak coming from the left transmission seal that I'm just monitoring at this time. I have been told that its not a cause for concern yey. If it does start to leak more, I guess I should change both sides at the same time, as well as the CV boots which haven't been replaced.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
Can we update this poll?
I'm looking at a 95 5spd max with 76k miles. I'm concerned about the bearing issue. It seems that most of the transmissions are fine, but of course you don't see people creating posts like "My Transmission Hasn't Failed!".
Anyone care to talk me out of / into buying this car? Should I hold out for a 97-98? Any help is appreciated. If you have voted yet, please vote so we can keep this poll up to date.
Anyone care to talk me out of / into buying this car? Should I hold out for a 97-98? Any help is appreciated. If you have voted yet, please vote so we can keep this poll up to date.
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Originally Posted by Gary95
I can't remember the exact magazines (Car & Driver, MotorTrend maybe), but several of them test drove the 4th Gen when it first appeared in late '94. Many many good comments. One or two negatives. The only negative I remember hearing that I thought held true was the behavior of the 5 speed.
Two of the magazines had both commented that the clutch action was very touchy, making the drivers feel like they were learning how to shift all over again. Was it a design flaw? Was the engine just too powerful for the transmission? Nissan had no comment.
I agreed, slightly. I had been shifting for well over 15 years when I bought my Maxima, and I felt like the clutch engagement range was noticeably narrower than I'd ever experienced on other cars. I did talk to the dealer about it, and they said there wasn't any adjustment possible to compensate. But I got used to it. Sometimes on cold mornings when I was "dragging" my feet a little, I'd stall out. It happened so rarely that I just ignored it.
Now that I'm at 110k miles, I have a little trouble making a smooth engagement when the transmission is bone cold. I'll get choppiness from the clutch plate or the car will lerch a bit. And if I'm punching the accelerator while shifting a little too early, I get a little slippage. But that's to be expected from a transmission with this much mileage on it. Once the transmission has warmed up, the engagement is always fine.
QUESTION:
The only problem I seem to have now with the transmission, is downshifting into first. If I do it at higher than 5mph, I will get grinding. Didn't start happening until about a year ago. I have to come to nearly a full stop. Anyone know what the source of the problem is? Do you think the clutch is near the end of its life?
Two of the magazines had both commented that the clutch action was very touchy, making the drivers feel like they were learning how to shift all over again. Was it a design flaw? Was the engine just too powerful for the transmission? Nissan had no comment.
I agreed, slightly. I had been shifting for well over 15 years when I bought my Maxima, and I felt like the clutch engagement range was noticeably narrower than I'd ever experienced on other cars. I did talk to the dealer about it, and they said there wasn't any adjustment possible to compensate. But I got used to it. Sometimes on cold mornings when I was "dragging" my feet a little, I'd stall out. It happened so rarely that I just ignored it.
Now that I'm at 110k miles, I have a little trouble making a smooth engagement when the transmission is bone cold. I'll get choppiness from the clutch plate or the car will lerch a bit. And if I'm punching the accelerator while shifting a little too early, I get a little slippage. But that's to be expected from a transmission with this much mileage on it. Once the transmission has warmed up, the engagement is always fine.
QUESTION:
The only problem I seem to have now with the transmission, is downshifting into first. If I do it at higher than 5mph, I will get grinding. Didn't start happening until about a year ago. I have to come to nearly a full stop. Anyone know what the source of the problem is? Do you think the clutch is near the end of its life?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 883
From: Stevens Point, WI
My Maxima never liked going into first unless I was stopped or very close to stopped. My Mazda shifts fine into 1st while rolling, but I still don't do it above 5-6mph. I always thought it was just my crappy tranny.
I am hearing a 'whirring' noise whenever the car is moving. It can be in gear or not. it does it about 80% of the time. Sometimes its louder then others but I am finding it being more louder then not as time goes on like its getting worse. If I wiggle the shifter the whirring noise pulsates. In gear or in neutral it doesn't matter, it pulsates no mater what when it is wiggled. Only time it doesn't do it is when its stopped.
I think my tranny is bad but im not sure,ut 3k , it seems as if it were the axles , but i changed them and the shaking got altittle beter, but didnt go away, and this shaking is pritty bad, it is most on wot and its pritty bad thought all the gears exept first.
Could this be my tranny?
The new axles i put in were remanufactured napa ones, but i dunno
also could being slammed afect my tranny in any way, cause i think its eating my axles, please help guys...
anyone else have this problem?
Could this be my tranny?
The new axles i put in were remanufactured napa ones, but i dunno
also could being slammed afect my tranny in any way, cause i think its eating my axles, please help guys...
anyone else have this problem?
Originally Posted by joecraps
I dont think first has a syncro bearing - correct me if if wrong here but I was always told NEVER to shift into 1st while the car is moving!
Tranny number 3 is going in my car sometime soon. First was bearings and syncos, My second one is a VLSD and the bearing are shot in that. No idea how many miles are on the VLSD trans though. I put 20K on since I got it last year.
my bearings are beyond shot. Its soo god damn loud in 1st gear, and when I downshift the noise will make you **** your pants. Im broke have no money for a new trans. This car is by far the most money pit Ive ever delt with.
Originally Posted by VQuick
Get a 2000 or 2001 5-speed tranny from a junkyard or car-part.com. They don't have the problem and the 2001 AE 5-speed has VLSD. Direct fit in a 4th gen.
Originally Posted by VQuick
That sucks. How did you get an A33 tranny installed on an A32 under warranty? I didn't think they would let you do that.
Originally Posted by darklegend06
So assuming to this, it is safe to do a 5spd swap and have no problems with it as long as I don't abuse it. I like all of this input!!!
BEFORE you put the tranny in the car, insert the driver's side axle and see if there's any play in it. If there is, your diff bearing is shot.
I've had 2 5spd failures, one at 59k and another at 100k. I've never raced the car, not even against the Civic rice burners. 90% of the miles it sees are on the freeway. I don't do burnouts.
Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
Some of the 5spd have diff bearings that are shimmed incorrectly. Even driving it like grandma will not stop them from failing prematurely.
BEFORE you put the tranny in the car, insert the driver's side axle and see if there's any play in it. If there is, your diff bearing is shot.
I've had 2 5spd failures, one at 59k and another at 100k. I've never raced the car, not even against the Civic rice burners. 90% of the miles it sees are on the freeway. I don't do burnouts.
BEFORE you put the tranny in the car, insert the driver's side axle and see if there's any play in it. If there is, your diff bearing is shot.
I've had 2 5spd failures, one at 59k and another at 100k. I've never raced the car, not even against the Civic rice burners. 90% of the miles it sees are on the freeway. I don't do burnouts.
Originally Posted by cyberwire2000
I have no problem with it at all with 169k on it. Still running strong with new cluth replaced 2000 miles ago.
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 43
From: Brooklyn NY
Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
Are you the original owner? If not, the original owner probably had it rebuilt.
Originally Posted by cyberwire2000
Nope, I'm the 2nd owner and when I got the car it has 125000 miles on it already and he told me everything on the car was stock.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3
tranny problems
Well first I'd say hello to everyone as I am new to the forums/site.
Second I will tell you all my 95 Maxima has just clocked 210,000 miles and I have only replaced the starter, control arms/bushings and a couple misc parts, as of this weekend the clutch asembly clutch, p/plate, bearing...etc. and now since (just today on the first drives afterward) my clutch pedal has nearly no resistance. this is what I am wondering about is this normal? this is the first MAJOR repai I have had to do so I do not know what is normal and not. I did read the threads about clutches and replacements but did not see anything about a newly replaced one and the issues afterward. any info would be greatly appreciated.
Second I will tell you all my 95 Maxima has just clocked 210,000 miles and I have only replaced the starter, control arms/bushings and a couple misc parts, as of this weekend the clutch asembly clutch, p/plate, bearing...etc. and now since (just today on the first drives afterward) my clutch pedal has nearly no resistance. this is what I am wondering about is this normal? this is the first MAJOR repai I have had to do so I do not know what is normal and not. I did read the threads about clutches and replacements but did not see anything about a newly replaced one and the issues afterward. any info would be greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted by Max3D
Well first I'd say hello to everyone as I am new to the forums/site.
Second I will tell you all my 95 Maxima has just clocked 210,000 miles and I have only replaced the starter, control arms/bushings and a couple misc parts, as of this weekend the clutch asembly clutch, p/plate, bearing...etc. and now since (just today on the first drives afterward) my clutch pedal has nearly no resistance. this is what I am wondering about is this normal? this is the first MAJOR repai I have had to do so I do not know what is normal and not. I did read the threads about clutches and replacements but did not see anything about a newly replaced one and the issues afterward. any info would be greatly appreciated.
Second I will tell you all my 95 Maxima has just clocked 210,000 miles and I have only replaced the starter, control arms/bushings and a couple misc parts, as of this weekend the clutch asembly clutch, p/plate, bearing...etc. and now since (just today on the first drives afterward) my clutch pedal has nearly no resistance. this is what I am wondering about is this normal? this is the first MAJOR repai I have had to do so I do not know what is normal and not. I did read the threads about clutches and replacements but did not see anything about a newly replaced one and the issues afterward. any info would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, welcome to maxima.org.
