Hid problem with voltage
Hid problem with voltage
hey guys i would like to first off say that i am not an electrical person so this has already been a feat, but let me give u the run down......
not too long ago i got in a hit and run (not me doing the running of course) and while the car was in the shop i had a problem with it when i got it out one of the hid headlights(bi=-xexon...may help with solving the problem) werent working, so instead of doing the smart thing ( checking it over myself) i let a friend look at it well his decision was to unplug the ballast for the foglight(single xenon) and plug it into the ballast of the headlight (bi-xenon) in order to c if the ballast was working.... well when he did just that one of the headlights and one of the foglights started violently flashing for about 10 secs and that was it they stopped working all together... well it took me about 2 hours and some electrical tape but i found that the headlight wireing had been rubbed raw and was causing it to ground out on the chassis. so at that point i was not worried about the foglights cuz i needed to get back on the road and get some stuff done......
well tonight i started working on the fog lights and this is what i have done so far:
- i pulled the entire wireharness and checked it for rubbing or possibly a bad ground or connection.... nothing, everything looks great! but i still cleaned all connectors in order to assure a good connection
- i than went inside and got 2 new ballasts and plugged them in nothing!
- and this is where i am i got out the multimeter and started probing things this is what i found on the relay i tested the voltage and it was only reading 4 V so of course i was like maybe the car needs to get started in order to work propperly still at 4V
....from what i know it is supposed to b at 12 V inorder for the ignitors to work! did i do something wrong when connecting the single xenon to the bi-xenon
i am at wits end the only thing that i still have yet to do is try replaceing the bulbs but i still dont think that it will b the problem
HELP ME PLZ!!!!
-Jared
not too long ago i got in a hit and run (not me doing the running of course) and while the car was in the shop i had a problem with it when i got it out one of the hid headlights(bi=-xexon...may help with solving the problem) werent working, so instead of doing the smart thing ( checking it over myself) i let a friend look at it well his decision was to unplug the ballast for the foglight(single xenon) and plug it into the ballast of the headlight (bi-xenon) in order to c if the ballast was working.... well when he did just that one of the headlights and one of the foglights started violently flashing for about 10 secs and that was it they stopped working all together... well it took me about 2 hours and some electrical tape but i found that the headlight wireing had been rubbed raw and was causing it to ground out on the chassis. so at that point i was not worried about the foglights cuz i needed to get back on the road and get some stuff done......
well tonight i started working on the fog lights and this is what i have done so far:
- i pulled the entire wireharness and checked it for rubbing or possibly a bad ground or connection.... nothing, everything looks great! but i still cleaned all connectors in order to assure a good connection
- i than went inside and got 2 new ballasts and plugged them in nothing!
- and this is where i am i got out the multimeter and started probing things this is what i found on the relay i tested the voltage and it was only reading 4 V so of course i was like maybe the car needs to get started in order to work propperly still at 4V
....from what i know it is supposed to b at 12 V inorder for the ignitors to work! did i do something wrong when connecting the single xenon to the bi-xenon
i am at wits end the only thing that i still have yet to do is try replaceing the bulbs but i still dont think that it will b the problem

HELP ME PLZ!!!!
-Jared
The bi-xenon harness may be different from the single xenon. You may have to post your problem on HIDPLANET: HID Kits. The only thing I can tell you to do is to check your headlight and fog fuses.
Next time swap the passenger and driver side bulbs first. When you rule out the bulbs, then you move to the ballasts. So by process of elimination you check the: bulbs --> ballasts --> harness. That way you avoid the situation you're in.
You should be able to hook up the bulb and ballast directly to the battery to see if it's working. When I received mine, I use alligator clips to power up them up. That should determine if the harness is good or not.
Next time swap the passenger and driver side bulbs first. When you rule out the bulbs, then you move to the ballasts. So by process of elimination you check the: bulbs --> ballasts --> harness. That way you avoid the situation you're in.
You should be able to hook up the bulb and ballast directly to the battery to see if it's working. When I received mine, I use alligator clips to power up them up. That should determine if the harness is good or not.
The bi-xenon harness may be different from the single xenon. You may have to post your problem on HIDPLANET: HID Kits. The only thing I can tell you to do is to check your headlight and fog fuses.
Next time swap the passenger and driver side bulbs first. When you rule out the bulbs, then you move to the ballasts. So by process of elimination you check the: bulbs --> ballasts --> harness. That way you avoid the situation you're in.
You should be able to hook up the bulb and ballast directly to the battery to see if it's working. When I received mine, I use alligator clips to power up them up. That should determine if the harness is good or not.
Next time swap the passenger and driver side bulbs first. When you rule out the bulbs, then you move to the ballasts. So by process of elimination you check the: bulbs --> ballasts --> harness. That way you avoid the situation you're in.
You should be able to hook up the bulb and ballast directly to the battery to see if it's working. When I received mine, I use alligator clips to power up them up. That should determine if the harness is good or not.
and yes i will definately use the process in the future in order to solve the problem!!
im on my way outside to check and c if i can get full power by hooking it up to the battery!!!
thank u
Most probably your foglight relays not getting 12v from the battery and that cable/wire will have to be replaced. Hope that helps lmk how it turns out.
Last edited by MaxedOut99; Nov 6, 2007 at 02:41 PM.

so if anyone has a place that they can show me a fog light diagram for a 99 maxima that would b super!!!!
thx
-Jared
ok well i finally figured it out i am a goober i would like to first off state that.... now i get to tell u what i did!!!
well i was looking at everything for the 4th time when i came across the fuse panel under the hood which had the foglight fuse in it well it turns out that i must have put the fuse diagram backwards so that i was reading the wrong fuse location, i noticed this when i was looking over the large fuses under there and the diagram said that there was a fuse, in "location 5"(for example), was the abs fuse and i started thinking.... i dont have abs so i turned the darn thing around and than noticed that the 15v fuse was blown
.....so to make a long story short.....i was reading the fuse diagram backwards and overlooked the correct fuse
but all is working now and i feel much better, i also believe that the reason that i was getting 4V on the multimeter was because i have done the foglight rewire so that the fogs get a constant current even when the high beams are on. so i feel as if i was stealing the volts from the turn signal. so yea....
thank all of u that tried to help me with the situation, and i must say that my electrical knowledge is now much more vast

here it is!!!!

well i was looking at everything for the 4th time when i came across the fuse panel under the hood which had the foglight fuse in it well it turns out that i must have put the fuse diagram backwards so that i was reading the wrong fuse location, i noticed this when i was looking over the large fuses under there and the diagram said that there was a fuse, in "location 5"(for example), was the abs fuse and i started thinking.... i dont have abs so i turned the darn thing around and than noticed that the 15v fuse was blown
.....so to make a long story short.....i was reading the fuse diagram backwards and overlooked the correct fuse
but all is working now and i feel much better, i also believe that the reason that i was getting 4V on the multimeter was because i have done the foglight rewire so that the fogs get a constant current even when the high beams are on. so i feel as if i was stealing the volts from the turn signal. so yea....
thank all of u that tried to help me with the situation, and i must say that my electrical knowledge is now much more vast

here it is!!!!

Glad you figured out the problem. I do have to apologize though. When I read the part about you reading the fuse panel backwards, I burst out laughin'
Sometimes it's just a simple mistake and it goes to show that we're all human. Your HIDs look awesome!
Sometimes it's just a simple mistake and it goes to show that we're all human. Your HIDs look awesome!
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