OK as it stands right now I have a transmission sitting on the kitchen table. I ordered my adjustment shims from Nissan today so as soon as they come in on Wednesday or so I can start reassembly. After using a precision deflection dial gauge, I was able to finally determine the shims that it needed. However, since I had changed both differential, and both carrier bearings there is no way to tell how "off" the original shims were. IF somehow the Quaife and the OE open differential was the same size (we're talking tens of thousandths of inches here for tolerance), then the OE shims would have been 8 sizes off, which is very significant and would explain my toasted bearings.

Anyway, the shims cost almost $5 a piece! You might not think thats so bad, but if you saw what these adjustment shims looked like, you'd wonder how anybody could charge more then 20 cents for one of these things.

As for the flywheel, I STILL have not decided whether or not to put myself into more debt and spend $500+ on the unorthodox racing unit. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=73320 for more info on that. If I were to order it, it will probably set me back a few more days. This project has taken entirely too long, and most the time is waiting around for parts to arrive.

I also need a pilot bushing puller to replace that pilot bushing, unless I cut it off.

I took pictures with a good ol film camera and will continue to take pictures and eventually do a writeup after I get the car back together and the film developed and scanned.

So if you are going to undertake this project, you will need a factory service manual, alot of cash/credit, patience, 3/32 punch, a 36 MM socket (that removes the axle hub nuts and will double as a drift for bearings and seal puller/driver), a hammer, 10, 12, 14, 17 mm sockets and deep wells. Torque wrench and breaker bar. Also, lots of brake cleaner/degreaser. You will also need a deflection dial gauge. A micrometer is optional, but a good way to check flywheel/clutch/rotor wear as well as the existing shims. Im sure I'm forgetting things, but I'll cover those in my write up.

 

If your goal is the best 1/4 mile time, a lightened/aluminum flywheel will probably hurt your times more then help. Note that most drag racers prefer HEAVY flywheels to store kinetic energy on the line and help keep the rpms up during shifts. So if your on the line about spending $500, don't.

Good luck on the tranny work. Sounds like you are on the right track.

 

IMHO save the $500+ and get an ECU. It doesn't matter which one (although JWT can do any program you could want). If anything the gain in midrange torque should be enough to drop that 60ft and 1/8 mile time.

 

Thanks Eric, I picked up my bearings and ring gear today. I'll be cracking my trans this weekend.

My parts guy told me $1.60 on the shims, I thought that was outa control, $5.00 is robery.