Need help ASAP on poping out the tierod...
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
Need help ASAP on poping out the tierod...
I looked around before I posted a new thread. I also Have not done any work on the car for a while now,so I kind of forgot how and where should I wack the tierod to pop it out of the knuckle and should I use a mallet or a hammer. THANKS.
Last edited by vqmaxman; 03-10-2008 at 06:42 PM.
#3
anyone ever use a floor or scissor jack to "lift it out\apart"
ive done this with my breaker bar for axle nuts and suspension
when it finally "gives" its all smooth and slow
but i guess it could be dangerous if the tool breaks and flings
"ze zafety goggles do nuzsing"
ive done this with my breaker bar for axle nuts and suspension
when it finally "gives" its all smooth and slow
but i guess it could be dangerous if the tool breaks and flings
"ze zafety goggles do nuzsing"
#4
Hmm multiple ways to attack this it looks pretty clean so this is where I would start.
Loosen crown nut and whack it with a dead blow hammer. no come out
Try using a pickle fork ($10-20)
Take a steal hammer with the crown nut lose and whack that casting seam that the arrow is pointing to. this typically will pop it free.
And last but not least
Remove the crown nut all the way
Get a torch and heat carefully the spindle area that the tie rod fits into. you want to heat till its starts gettign a nice lite red glow not too much. let it start to cool and then give the same weld on the spindle a whack it should pop right out.
God luck
Loosen crown nut and whack it with a dead blow hammer. no come out
Try using a pickle fork ($10-20)
Take a steal hammer with the crown nut lose and whack that casting seam that the arrow is pointing to. this typically will pop it free.
And last but not least
Remove the crown nut all the way
Get a torch and heat carefully the spindle area that the tie rod fits into. you want to heat till its starts gettign a nice lite red glow not too much. let it start to cool and then give the same weld on the spindle a whack it should pop right out.
God luck
Last edited by 02Blackout; 03-11-2008 at 08:30 AM.
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Torbay, NL, Canada
Posts: 391
Loosen nut or even remove it and hit it the area between the arrow mark and the finger with a 2 to 5lb ball-peen hammer or mallet. A good solid hit should do the trick, careful not to hit anything else, you don't have to make a huge swing just good contact.
#8
pickle fork, $11.96
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=28907
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=28907
#9
#11
use a 3-5 lb hammer preferably with short handle. Aim and hit. If it does not come off hit again till it does. try not to hit the backing plate and if you hit the threads so what, you are replacing that tie rod in the first place. if you hit the backing plate just bend it back. don't buy no tie rod tool. no mechanic will ever have that. and you don't need to torch it. when you torch it metal becomes brittle and next guy that hits it it will shatter.
Try to avoid suspension components from torching as much as you can.
Try to avoid suspension components from torching as much as you can.
Last edited by NisTech; 03-12-2008 at 07:39 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
It has been a while since I had done any major work on the car. I thought about hitting the tierod from the bottom and I was worrying about If I should Hit it and damage It or ask the ORG. I knew I had to hit the rod,but It was more likely at which angle do hit at. I just popped out the rod with good hard whacks to the bottom and the knuckle and It popped out. Now I just did the work everything came back In a flash and now I remember all the little things and the Important steps to the precedure. Thanks.....
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