NOS ppl..................
NOS ppl..................
please post ur set up and how much u running/ ratio.
also how long u spray and how ur car is affected by spraying/ also how much mile u have on your car.....
thanks in advance.
p.s no b u l l s h i t " i run 200 shot with 10 tanks in the trunk please.
i'm feeling 80 is a good amount to spray, anyone do more than 100 feel a difference?
also how long u spray and how ur car is affected by spraying/ also how much mile u have on your car.....
thanks in advance.
p.s no b u l l s h i t " i run 200 shot with 10 tanks in the trunk please.
i'm feeling 80 is a good amount to spray, anyone do more than 100 feel a difference?
Iv'e got a 350 shot with 4 20lb tanks... J/K
I'm currently running a .042= 80 shot at about 85 psi of fuel pressure, which is a bit rich, but until I get an EGT, I want to play it extra safe. I have had no ill effects to my car, and I have 60k on it. I usually spray through a 1/4 mile, or long enough to pull a car or two on silly Rustang owners, etc. I'd say the most you leave it on is about 14-15 seconds...
I'm currently running a .042= 80 shot at about 85 psi of fuel pressure, which is a bit rich, but until I get an EGT, I want to play it extra safe. I have had no ill effects to my car, and I have 60k on it. I usually spray through a 1/4 mile, or long enough to pull a car or two on silly Rustang owners, etc. I'd say the most you leave it on is about 14-15 seconds...
Originally posted by mtrai760
Iv'e got a 350 shot with 4 20lb tanks... J/K
I'm currently running a .042= 80 shot at about 85 psi of fuel pressure, which is a bit rich, but until I get an EGT, I want to play it extra safe. I have had no ill effects to my car, and I have 60k on it. I usually spray through a 1/4 mile, or long enough to pull a car or two on silly Rustang owners, etc. I'd say the most you leave it on is about 14-15 seconds...
Iv'e got a 350 shot with 4 20lb tanks... J/K
I'm currently running a .042= 80 shot at about 85 psi of fuel pressure, which is a bit rich, but until I get an EGT, I want to play it extra safe. I have had no ill effects to my car, and I have 60k on it. I usually spray through a 1/4 mile, or long enough to pull a car or two on silly Rustang owners, etc. I'd say the most you leave it on is about 14-15 seconds...
When you run rich...do you have gasoline coming out from your car's tailpipe? It isn't bad, just poor gas mileage...right?
Re: NOS
Originally posted by c0d3rwlu
hey do you guys have any pics of your bottle set ups....if you do can you please post...i am interested and need a few ideas.....
thanks
jersey
hey do you guys have any pics of your bottle set ups....if you do can you please post...i am interested and need a few ideas.....
thanks
jersey
http://forums.maxima.org/attachment....achmentid=3736
I have a 255lph Walbarro fuel pump. You don't get Gas coming out the tailpipe, you just burn more gas than you need too= less power. NOS seems to make more power running a little on the lean side... Ive been getting the same gas milage, I do mostly freeway driving, my exhaust is just always black, but I'm getting a regulator soon to get it back into specs... 

Originally posted by dashingMax
Do you get that kinda fuel pressure from your stock fuel pump?
When you run rich...do you have gasoline coming out from your car's tailpipe? It isn't bad, just poor gas mileage...right?
Do you get that kinda fuel pressure from your stock fuel pump?
When you run rich...do you have gasoline coming out from your car's tailpipe? It isn't bad, just poor gas mileage...right?
Originally posted by mtrai760
I have a 255lph Walbarro fuel pump. You don't get Gas coming out the tailpipe, you just burn more gas than you need too= less power. NOS seems to make more power running a little on the lean side... Ive been getting the same gas milage, I do mostly freeway driving, my exhaust is just always black, but I'm getting a regulator soon to get it back into specs...
I have a 255lph Walbarro fuel pump. You don't get Gas coming out the tailpipe, you just burn more gas than you need too= less power. NOS seems to make more power running a little on the lean side... Ive been getting the same gas milage, I do mostly freeway driving, my exhaust is just always black, but I'm getting a regulator soon to get it back into specs...

Nissan dealer mechanic told me that the stock fuel pump is 90 lph which is what 5.0 Mustangs and 5.7 Camaro's have stock!! His said that if I am needing a larger fuel pump, I am "probably about to do some serious damage to the engine". It took me 2 days to recover from that!!

I have NOS kit on its way. I'll try my best to make it 100% safe and "IDIOT-Proof". No pun intended
Originally posted by wicked1044
tired of people saying what n20 system are you runnig?? hehehe
also whats the point of getting such a high outout fuel pump???
your injectors and ecu measures the fuel going in...
tired of people saying what n20 system are you runnig?? hehehe
also whats the point of getting such a high outout fuel pump???
your injectors and ecu measures the fuel going in...
The stock fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel at the right pressure to run over a 65 shot. A 50 shot requires roughly 62 PSI of fuel pressure, a 75 shot requires about 72 psi of fuel pressure, that's 10 PSI more, the stocker can't handle it... 

Originally posted by wicked1044
tired of people saying what n20 system are you runnig?? hehehe
also whats the point of getting such a high outout fuel pump???
your injectors and ecu measures the fuel going in...
tired of people saying what n20 system are you runnig?? hehehe
also whats the point of getting such a high outout fuel pump???
your injectors and ecu measures the fuel going in...
No they don't make one specifically for the Maxima, but you can buy a universal one and use it for under $200. Installation is rather simple, you just have to bypass the stock regulator. The pump is not 90lph, it's 190lph. Just because a pump is 190lhp, or 255lph for that matter, does not mean it can support your flow and pressure needs, which is why you need to upgrade your pump. They sell a 190 lph replacement pump for the Max that will outflow the stock one, but if you want to go into the 80-100 shot range, why not get a 255lph pump and have an extra piece of mind? This pump will flow for over 500 HP engines, so you won't have a problem. With a 75 shot, you need at least 72psi fuel pressure, and a 100 shot requires around 85psi, your stocker is not gonna handle it. Briguy actually just started having trouble with his pump, and he's only running a 50 shot! 

Originally posted by dashingMax
Aren't those fuel pressure regulators around $200? Also, I could not find one made specifically for the 97-99 Maxima. So, installation will not be straight forward.
Nissan dealer mechanic told me that the stock fuel pump is 90 lph which is what 5.0 Mustangs and 5.7 Camaro's have stock!! His said that if I am needing a larger fuel pump, I am "probably about to do some serious damage to the engine". It took me 2 days to recover from that!!
I have NOS kit on its way. I'll try my best to make it 100% safe and "IDIOT-Proof". No pun intended
Aren't those fuel pressure regulators around $200? Also, I could not find one made specifically for the 97-99 Maxima. So, installation will not be straight forward.
Nissan dealer mechanic told me that the stock fuel pump is 90 lph which is what 5.0 Mustangs and 5.7 Camaro's have stock!! His said that if I am needing a larger fuel pump, I am "probably about to do some serious damage to the engine". It took me 2 days to recover from that!!

I have NOS kit on its way. I'll try my best to make it 100% safe and "IDIOT-Proof". No pun intended
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
Re: NOS

Originally posted by c0d3rwlu
hey do you guys have any pics of your bottle set ups....if you do can you please post...i am interested and need a few ideas.....
thanks
jersey
hey do you guys have any pics of your bottle set ups....if you do can you please post...i am interested and need a few ideas.....
thanks
jersey
I am running a 75 Wet Shot. I am buying a regulator and a new fuel pump because I am running into Fuel pressure problems. I will keep you updated. Does anyone know of a good fuel pressure regulator?
Thanks,
Erik
Thanks,
Erik
Which is this universal fuel pressure regulator that I can buy?
Also, as long as I stay 60 shot and below, I should be okay with the stock pump & regulator...correct?
Maybe next spring, I'll upgrade to 80+ shot with fuel pump, regulator & maybe a catback + Y-pipe.
Also, as long as I stay 60 shot and below, I should be okay with the stock pump & regulator...correct?
Maybe next spring, I'll upgrade to 80+ shot with fuel pump, regulator & maybe a catback + Y-pipe.
Originally posted by mtrai760
No they don't make one specifically for the Maxima, but you can buy a universal one and use it for under $200. Installation is rather simple, you just have to bypass the stock regulator. The pump is not 90lph, it's 190lph. Just because a pump is 190lhp, or 255lph for that matter, does not mean it can support your flow and pressure needs, which is why you need to upgrade your pump. They sell a 190 lph replacement pump for the Max that will outflow the stock one, but if you want to go into the 80-100 shot range, why not get a 255lph pump and have an extra piece of mind? This pump will flow for over 500 HP engines, so you won't have a problem. With a 75 shot, you need at least 72psi fuel pressure, and a 100 shot requires around 85psi, your stocker is not gonna handle it. Briguy actually just started having trouble with his pump, and he's only running a 50 shot!
No they don't make one specifically for the Maxima, but you can buy a universal one and use it for under $200. Installation is rather simple, you just have to bypass the stock regulator. The pump is not 90lph, it's 190lph. Just because a pump is 190lhp, or 255lph for that matter, does not mean it can support your flow and pressure needs, which is why you need to upgrade your pump. They sell a 190 lph replacement pump for the Max that will outflow the stock one, but if you want to go into the 80-100 shot range, why not get a 255lph pump and have an extra piece of mind? This pump will flow for over 500 HP engines, so you won't have a problem. With a 75 shot, you need at least 72psi fuel pressure, and a 100 shot requires around 85psi, your stocker is not gonna handle it. Briguy actually just started having trouble with his pump, and he's only running a 50 shot!

Originally posted by tifosiv122
I am running a 75 Wet Shot. I am buying a regulator and a new fuel pump because I am running into Fuel pressure problems. I will keep you updated. Does anyone know of a good fuel pressure regulator?
Thanks,
Erik
I am running a 75 Wet Shot. I am buying a regulator and a new fuel pump because I am running into Fuel pressure problems. I will keep you updated. Does anyone know of a good fuel pressure regulator?
Thanks,
Erik
Get a universal AEM, I think Mardi is running a JEG's... Just get a universal one and add a fuel pressure guage to it.
Correct.
Correct.
Originally posted by dashingMax
Which is this universal fuel pressure regulator that I can buy?
Also, as long as I stay 60 shot and below, I should be okay with the stock pump & regulator...correct?
Maybe next spring, I'll upgrade to 80+ shot with fuel pump, regulator & maybe a catback + Y-pipe.
Which is this universal fuel pressure regulator that I can buy?
Also, as long as I stay 60 shot and below, I should be okay with the stock pump & regulator...correct?
Maybe next spring, I'll upgrade to 80+ shot with fuel pump, regulator & maybe a catback + Y-pipe.
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
There are bunch of universal fuel pressure regulators. Paxton, XS engineering, Holley, AEM, Magna Flow and Aeromotive. They go from $129 - $200. Does the FPR need a return port to work on the maxima?
Originally posted by dmbmaxima88
your prolly running into problems because your running a wet shot on a maxima
your prolly running into problems because your running a wet shot on a maxima
Erik
Less safe? How do you figure? Just wondering how you came to this conclusion?
Originally posted by tifosiv122
I am actually running into the same problems as everyone else who runs more then 70 shot...when I ran a 50 shot, wet, I was fine. I love the people who know that the dry is soo much better when in reality it is less safe, reliable, and well, yeah, its cheaper.
Erik
I am actually running into the same problems as everyone else who runs more then 70 shot...when I ran a 50 shot, wet, I was fine. I love the people who know that the dry is soo much better when in reality it is less safe, reliable, and well, yeah, its cheaper.
Erik
Originally posted by mtrai760
Less safe? How do you figure? Just wondering how you came to this conclusion?
Less safe? How do you figure? Just wondering how you came to this conclusion?
A “Wet” system introduces a homogenous mixture of nitrous
and atomized fuel into the incoming airstream, thus providing a
perfect air/fuel ratio for each cylinder. A “Dry” system introduces
raw nitrous into the incoming airstream and depends on the EFI’s
injectors to provide the fuel enrichment. The problem with this
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous
but only provides a preset amount of fuel from each injector.
This results in rich-lean conditions throughout the engine
often causing engine damage.
The “dry” system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the
nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology
is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port
it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector
becomes clogged engine damage will result. The “Wet” technology
introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech
mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This
allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of
fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe powerful increase.
Let me know if you think this is wrong.
Erik
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
Even with single nozzle wet kit, cylinder 5 and 6 still get more nitrous/fuel. It's better than dry but not perfect.
Originally posted by tifosiv122
Let me know if you think this is wrong.
Erik
Let me know if you think this is wrong.
Erik
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
Even with single nozzle wet kit, cylinder 5 and 6 still get more nitrous/fuel. It's better than dry but not perfect.
Even with single nozzle wet kit, cylinder 5 and 6 still get more nitrous/fuel. It's better than dry but not perfect.
Erik
NOS is a great thing. 
Fuel Pump & FPR are key terms my friends.
There is a debate on Dry kit vs Wet kit. All i know is that a dry 50 shto took a full second of my time. I have nothing to complain about. I just wonder what this 100 shot is gnna do.

Fuel Pump & FPR are key terms my friends.

There is a debate on Dry kit vs Wet kit. All i know is that a dry 50 shto took a full second of my time. I have nothing to complain about. I just wonder what this 100 shot is gnna do.
Originally posted by tifosiv122
I said it was better then dry, but I never said it was perfect. Direct is much better then wet.
Erik
I said it was better then dry, but I never said it was perfect. Direct is much better then wet.
Erik
oh and another thing.. you have an NX kit..
FYI:
those are new solenoids.. no one knows how strong or good they are.. also .. those come with 1 solenoid.. you know what that means?
if the 1 solenoid goes bad.. and its left open? BOOM bye bye engine..
the NOS dry kit comes with 2 solenoids.. so if one goes bad.. you still have 1 left..
FYI:
those are new solenoids.. no one knows how strong or good they are.. also .. those come with 1 solenoid.. you know what that means?
if the 1 solenoid goes bad.. and its left open? BOOM bye bye engine..
the NOS dry kit comes with 2 solenoids.. so if one goes bad.. you still have 1 left..
I'm not trying to argue with you, the theory is just screwed up and it quotes itself saying so. The problem with this
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous Wouldn't it be safe to say then that each cylinder would get a different amount of raw fuel? I'm not against a wet system per say, I just don't think it's any safer than a dry system. I just think you can moniter a little better with a dry system than with a wet, and you don't have to worry about fuel puddiling in your hot intake manifold. if a fuel injector becomes clogged engine damage will result WHat if your fuel injector into the manifold becomes clogged, wouldn't that be worse? I think NOS is a great thing, add's power and when used safely, add's lot's of fun too. I think the best system would be Direct Port, but not all of us can afford that, at least not yet... Each company just want's to sell there product, which is where you get stuff like the quote below. Holley doesn't recommend using a wet system with the Max, Nitrous Express does. Who's right? As long as your having fun and being safe, who cares? You have no complaints with your Wet system, that's great, congrat's and good luck. I have no problem with my dry system, and I know Thomas has run 40+ bottles through his Max, and we all know what it can do
Just my $.02 
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous Wouldn't it be safe to say then that each cylinder would get a different amount of raw fuel? I'm not against a wet system per say, I just don't think it's any safer than a dry system. I just think you can moniter a little better with a dry system than with a wet, and you don't have to worry about fuel puddiling in your hot intake manifold. if a fuel injector becomes clogged engine damage will result WHat if your fuel injector into the manifold becomes clogged, wouldn't that be worse? I think NOS is a great thing, add's power and when used safely, add's lot's of fun too. I think the best system would be Direct Port, but not all of us can afford that, at least not yet... Each company just want's to sell there product, which is where you get stuff like the quote below. Holley doesn't recommend using a wet system with the Max, Nitrous Express does. Who's right? As long as your having fun and being safe, who cares? You have no complaints with your Wet system, that's great, congrat's and good luck. I have no problem with my dry system, and I know Thomas has run 40+ bottles through his Max, and we all know what it can do
Just my $.02 
Originally posted by tifosiv122
Here is your answer:
A “Wet” system introduces a homogenous mixture of nitrous
and atomized fuel into the incoming airstream, thus providing a
perfect air/fuel ratio for each cylinder. A “Dry” system introduces
raw nitrous into the incoming airstream and depends on the EFI’s
injectors to provide the fuel enrichment. The problem with this
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous
but only provides a preset amount of fuel from each injector.
This results in rich-lean conditions throughout the engine
often causing engine damage.
The “dry” system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the
nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology
is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port
it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector
becomes clogged engine damage will result. The “Wet” technology
introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech
mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This
allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of
fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe powerful increase.
Let me know if you think this is wrong.
Erik
Here is your answer:
A “Wet” system introduces a homogenous mixture of nitrous
and atomized fuel into the incoming airstream, thus providing a
perfect air/fuel ratio for each cylinder. A “Dry” system introduces
raw nitrous into the incoming airstream and depends on the EFI’s
injectors to provide the fuel enrichment. The problem with this
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous
but only provides a preset amount of fuel from each injector.
This results in rich-lean conditions throughout the engine
often causing engine damage.
The “dry” system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the
nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology
is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port
it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector
becomes clogged engine damage will result. The “Wet” technology
introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech
mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This
allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of
fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe powerful increase.
Let me know if you think this is wrong.
Erik
Wet is not better in single fogger applications for EFI cars due to fuel puddeling. When nitrous leaves the nozzle it becomes a gas. The intake runners on EFI cars are designed to flow regular air wich is a gas. No fogger nozzle can turn fuel into a true gas, it becomes vaporized into tiny droplets. It will condense and collect on the walls and nooks and cranies of EFI intake runners. This creates the puddeling effect. If you have a small backfire, this will create a big backfire and cause allot more damage to your motor and intake system. A small back fire on a dry system will cause less damage. Has this happend to a Maxima that I know of, no. However I have seen it happen in internet videos to quite a few other vehicles.
Your inferance about distribution is correct that "per cylinder" the a/f ratio of a wet system will be better. However were talking about very small percentages here. IMHO its not enough to validate that either system is better on this fact alone.
The reason that dry is better is because its safer in EFI cars with long bent intake paths that were designed to flow air only. I hope you never have a backfire with your set up and it works well and your car is fast for it. I would never put a single fogger wet system on my car.
Your inferance about distribution is correct that "per cylinder" the a/f ratio of a wet system will be better. However were talking about very small percentages here. IMHO its not enough to validate that either system is better on this fact alone.
The reason that dry is better is because its safer in EFI cars with long bent intake paths that were designed to flow air only. I hope you never have a backfire with your set up and it works well and your car is fast for it. I would never put a single fogger wet system on my car.
Originally posted by SprintMax
oh and another thing.. you have an NX kit..
FYI:
those are new solenoids.. no one knows how strong or good they are.. also .. those come with 1 solenoid.. you know what that means?
if the 1 solenoid goes bad.. and its left open? BOOM bye bye engine..
the NOS dry kit comes with 2 solenoids.. so if one goes bad.. you still have 1 left..
oh and another thing.. you have an NX kit..
FYI:
those are new solenoids.. no one knows how strong or good they are.. also .. those come with 1 solenoid.. you know what that means?
if the 1 solenoid goes bad.. and its left open? BOOM bye bye engine..
the NOS dry kit comes with 2 solenoids.. so if one goes bad.. you still have 1 left..
Erik
Either way, a backfire is not good, and it is more likely in 5 speeds then Auto's, correct? Basically, if I understand correctly, if everything goes ok, wet "seems" safer, but if something goes wrong, "backfire", wet will make it worse? If this is correct, I will take my chances that nothing goes wrong, because if it does I doubt either one will be able to leave without damage.
Erik
Erik
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Wet is not better in single fogger applications for EFI cars due to fuel puddeling. When nitrous leaves the nozzle it becomes a gas. The intake runners on EFI cars are designed to flow regular air wich is a gas. No fogger nozzle can turn fuel into a true gas, it becomes vaporized into tiny droplets. It will condense and collect on the walls and nooks and cranies of EFI intake runners. This creates the puddeling effect. If you have a small backfire, this will create a big backfire and cause allot more damage to your motor and intake system. A small back fire on a dry system will cause less damage. Has this happend to a Maxima that I know of, no. However I have seen it happen in internet videos to quite a few other vehicles.
Your inferance about distribution is correct that "per cylinder" the a/f ratio of a wet system will be better. However were talking about very small percentages here. IMHO its not enough to validate that either system is better on this fact alone.
The reason that dry is better is because its safer in EFI cars with long bent intake paths that were designed to flow air only. I hope you never have a backfire with your set up and it works well and your car is fast for it. I would never put a single fogger wet system on my car.
Wet is not better in single fogger applications for EFI cars due to fuel puddeling. When nitrous leaves the nozzle it becomes a gas. The intake runners on EFI cars are designed to flow regular air wich is a gas. No fogger nozzle can turn fuel into a true gas, it becomes vaporized into tiny droplets. It will condense and collect on the walls and nooks and cranies of EFI intake runners. This creates the puddeling effect. If you have a small backfire, this will create a big backfire and cause allot more damage to your motor and intake system. A small back fire on a dry system will cause less damage. Has this happend to a Maxima that I know of, no. However I have seen it happen in internet videos to quite a few other vehicles.
Your inferance about distribution is correct that "per cylinder" the a/f ratio of a wet system will be better. However were talking about very small percentages here. IMHO its not enough to validate that either system is better on this fact alone.
The reason that dry is better is because its safer in EFI cars with long bent intake paths that were designed to flow air only. I hope you never have a backfire with your set up and it works well and your car is fast for it. I would never put a single fogger wet system on my car.
Either way, a backfire is not good, and it is more likely in 5 speeds then Auto's, correct?
I dont know? Perhaps if you bog a start up, but Ive seen a TNT equiped LS1 Camaro back fire on a dyno under full throttle, it wasnt nice. Damages were $$$$.
Basically, if I understand correctly, if everything goes ok, wet "seems" safer, but if something goes wrong, "backfire", wet will make it worse?
Much worse!!! I would think the larger the wet shot the bigger the back fire will be.
Also,
Size of the solinoid has nothing to do with the quality of the seal. I have only used Nitrous Oxide Systems parts, I've never had a mojor problem to date.
its not a back up solenoid.. i was talking if one fails.. you have a likely chance of 1 solenoid failing than both at the same time.. and at leaset on the NOS system.. if one fails.. the other one will still prevent the gas from getting in the engine..
I have seen a picture of a civic that had the solenoid fail and was stuck open.. and as soon as the car was started.. BOOM!!!!
I have seen a picture of a civic that had the solenoid fail and was stuck open.. and as soon as the car was started.. BOOM!!!!
Originally posted by tifosiv122
I was told from NOS that the extra solenoid is not a "backup" as you described. The NX solenoid is twice the size. I did research and almost anyone I asked who had nitrous, was running wet or direct, except maximas. I have a friend who ran NOS on one Accord and NX on the other. He has had no problems with either system, but suggested the NX over the NOS for the size of the solenoids and for the reasons I stated above.
Erik
I was told from NOS that the extra solenoid is not a "backup" as you described. The NX solenoid is twice the size. I did research and almost anyone I asked who had nitrous, was running wet or direct, except maximas. I have a friend who ran NOS on one Accord and NX on the other. He has had no problems with either system, but suggested the NX over the NOS for the size of the solenoids and for the reasons I stated above.
Erik
Wet, Dry, Direct Port, everything...
Is there is ONE thing that this thread has achieved is scare me completely. I am a skeptic, about 48 hours away from installing the complete NOS kit. Now I am seeing all the "problems" with pretty much every single kit. I knew that Nitrous in general was not 100% safe regardless of the type of the kit, however, I thought as long as you stay below 60HP shot with FPSS, RPM Switch & WOT switch installed correctly, Nitrous Oxide is SAFE.
Wet Kit:
Backfire in intake because EFI engines not designed for fuel flowing through the intake, only air. Therefore fuel may accumulate and BOOM!
There are no precautions built in to control this. I guess one can put a temperature sender inside the intake and watch for high temperatures, however, I would imagine it would not take much more than a small spark to create a serious backfire!
Only NX makes one, NOS does not make a wet kit.
Dry Kit:
Main problems are due to Fuel. If fuel pump gives up or fuel pressure regulator does not provide enough pressure or fuel injector gets clogged, BOOM! However, the FPSS (Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) will not let any Nitrous flow if not enough fuel pressure is available. However, if the fuel injector is clogged, then that particular plus, cylinder, piston will get seriously damaged. To avoid this, one can monitor the system with an A/F gauge and I think prevent any serious damage. The spark plug will be the first to go.
Direct Port:
Best, however, expensive and would require serious installation and modification to stock engine. NOS does not make one for a Maxima.
Wet Kit:
Backfire in intake because EFI engines not designed for fuel flowing through the intake, only air. Therefore fuel may accumulate and BOOM!
There are no precautions built in to control this. I guess one can put a temperature sender inside the intake and watch for high temperatures, however, I would imagine it would not take much more than a small spark to create a serious backfire!
Only NX makes one, NOS does not make a wet kit.
Dry Kit:
Main problems are due to Fuel. If fuel pump gives up or fuel pressure regulator does not provide enough pressure or fuel injector gets clogged, BOOM! However, the FPSS (Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) will not let any Nitrous flow if not enough fuel pressure is available. However, if the fuel injector is clogged, then that particular plus, cylinder, piston will get seriously damaged. To avoid this, one can monitor the system with an A/F gauge and I think prevent any serious damage. The spark plug will be the first to go.
Direct Port:
Best, however, expensive and would require serious installation and modification to stock engine. NOS does not make one for a Maxima.
Re: Wet, Dry, Direct Port, everything...
You want even more safety? Get an APEX'i EGT. You can set up the EFT gauge to cut off your NOS if the temp gets too high= extra piece of mind. How many people here have done engine damage due to NOS? I know of only one, and he was running a 125 shot (or more) and ran it too lean... 

Originally posted by dashingMax
Is there is ONE thing that this thread has achieved is scare me completely. I am a skeptic, about 48 hours away from installing the complete NOS kit. Now I am seeing all the "problems" with pretty much every single kit. I knew that Nitrous in general was not 100% safe regardless of the type of the kit, however, I thought as long as you stay below 60HP shot with FPSS, RPM Switch & WOT switch installed correctly, Nitrous Oxide is SAFE.
Wet Kit:
Backfire in intake because EFI engines not designed for fuel flowing through the intake, only air. Therefore fuel may accumulate and BOOM!
There are no precautions built in to control this. I guess one can put a temperature sender inside the intake and watch for high temperatures, however, I would imagine it would not take much more than a small spark to create a serious backfire!
Only NX makes one, NOS does not make a wet kit.
Dry Kit:
Main problems are due to Fuel. If fuel pump gives up or fuel pressure regulator does not provide enough pressure or fuel injector gets clogged, BOOM! However, the FPSS (Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) will not let any Nitrous flow if not enough fuel pressure is available. However, if the fuel injector is clogged, then that particular plus, cylinder, piston will get seriously damaged. To avoid this, one can monitor the system with an A/F gauge and I think prevent any serious damage. The spark plug will be the first to go.
Direct Port:
Best, however, expensive and would require serious installation and modification to stock engine. NOS does not make one for a Maxima.
Is there is ONE thing that this thread has achieved is scare me completely. I am a skeptic, about 48 hours away from installing the complete NOS kit. Now I am seeing all the "problems" with pretty much every single kit. I knew that Nitrous in general was not 100% safe regardless of the type of the kit, however, I thought as long as you stay below 60HP shot with FPSS, RPM Switch & WOT switch installed correctly, Nitrous Oxide is SAFE.
Wet Kit:
Backfire in intake because EFI engines not designed for fuel flowing through the intake, only air. Therefore fuel may accumulate and BOOM!
There are no precautions built in to control this. I guess one can put a temperature sender inside the intake and watch for high temperatures, however, I would imagine it would not take much more than a small spark to create a serious backfire!
Only NX makes one, NOS does not make a wet kit.
Dry Kit:
Main problems are due to Fuel. If fuel pump gives up or fuel pressure regulator does not provide enough pressure or fuel injector gets clogged, BOOM! However, the FPSS (Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) will not let any Nitrous flow if not enough fuel pressure is available. However, if the fuel injector is clogged, then that particular plus, cylinder, piston will get seriously damaged. To avoid this, one can monitor the system with an A/F gauge and I think prevent any serious damage. The spark plug will be the first to go.
Direct Port:
Best, however, expensive and would require serious installation and modification to stock engine. NOS does not make one for a Maxima.
Re: Re: Wet, Dry, Direct Port, everything...
Originally posted by mtrai760
You want even more safety? Get an APEX'i EGT. You can set up the EFT gauge to cut off your NOS if the temp gets too high= extra piece of mind. How many people here have done engine damage due to NOS? I know of only one, and he was running a 125 shot (or more) and ran it too lean...
You want even more safety? Get an APEX'i EGT. You can set up the EFT gauge to cut off your NOS if the temp gets too high= extra piece of mind. How many people here have done engine damage due to NOS? I know of only one, and he was running a 125 shot (or more) and ran it too lean...

To the other gentleman.. dashingmax - if you get the proper gauges and do the right setup.. you will be ok




