Tips to Save GAS
#1
Tips to Save GAS
I found this on another forum and I hope its not a repost, but this information should be helpful with the way gas prices are now.
Pumping gas - good to know with gasoline high prices~!!!
I've been in petroleum pipeline business for about 31 years, currently working for the Kinder-Morgan Pipeline here in San Jose, CA. We deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period from the pipe line; one day it's diesel, the next day it's jet fuel and gasoline. We have 34 storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons.
Here are some tricks to help you get your money's worth:
1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline. When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at their pumps.
2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.
3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)
4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which is being sucked back into the underground tank, so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'.
**Cliffnotes**
1. Fill up in morning when temp. is still cool.
2. If tanker is filling up stations tank, dont fill up.
3. Fill up when your tank is half full.
4. Use the "slow" setting on trigger.
-explaination for these tips are in the long version above
Pumping gas - good to know with gasoline high prices~!!!
I've been in petroleum pipeline business for about 31 years, currently working for the Kinder-Morgan Pipeline here in San Jose, CA. We deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period from the pipe line; one day it's diesel, the next day it's jet fuel and gasoline. We have 34 storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons.
Here are some tricks to help you get your money's worth:
1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline. When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at their pumps.
2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.
3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)
4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which is being sucked back into the underground tank, so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'.
**Cliffnotes**
1. Fill up in morning when temp. is still cool.
2. If tanker is filling up stations tank, dont fill up.
3. Fill up when your tank is half full.
4. Use the "slow" setting on trigger.
-explaination for these tips are in the long version above
#4
#9
i really don't even know the true reason why we can't pump our own gas, but ya it's a state law. i don't know if it's a safety thing or what, but it sucks when you have to sit there for 10 minutes just to put 20 bucks in your car cause the guy is taking forever to get to your car.
#10
Hold on there...hmmm...who is the customer? You have every right to tell them how you want it done. YOU are paying the bill. I'd stand right next to them and intimidate them if they gave me grief over that.
#13
i really don't even know the true reason why we can't pump our own gas, but ya it's a state law. i don't know if it's a safety thing or what, but it sucks when you have to sit there for 10 minutes just to put 20 bucks in your car cause the guy is taking forever to get to your car.
#14
#15
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That freaked me out before. I drove to Oregon and pulled up to a pump to get gas. Within a second a man approached me and asked which octane I wanted. My first thought was 'none of your business'. It took me about 5 seconds to realize he worked there and intended to pump my gas. When I said "No thanks", he kindly informed me I didn't have a choice. lol
Also, this is obvious but leave the nozzle in the gas tank for a short while after the pump clicks off. Also, give it a "good wiggle".
And then of course all the stuff we all know. Leave heavy items out of the car, accel/deccel slowly, proper tire inflation, car maintenance, use your cruise control, lower your top speed, etc., etc.
Also, this is obvious but leave the nozzle in the gas tank for a short while after the pump clicks off. Also, give it a "good wiggle".
And then of course all the stuff we all know. Leave heavy items out of the car, accel/deccel slowly, proper tire inflation, car maintenance, use your cruise control, lower your top speed, etc., etc.
#16
My co-worker was just telling me about all this stuff last week. Two items listed are new to me. I had no idea that there were speed settings on the trigger. I thought the speed was the same, just that the three clicks were there so the nozzle is compatible with every vehicle on the street.
#17
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
1) Ridiculous, ground temps remain stable.
2) I'll agree
3) It should be the other way around, a full tank weighs more. More weight to pull around in the car will hurt fuel economy. Common sense here....
4) Vapor loss, please, seriously.....
Some good advise to get more $$ from a gallon of fuel is to keep your car in proper operating condition. That includes engine tune ups, oil changes, air filter, and most important keep the tire pressure correct and make sure your alignment is within spec as well. That saves fuel, not how or when you fill up..... seriously......
2) I'll agree
3) It should be the other way around, a full tank weighs more. More weight to pull around in the car will hurt fuel economy. Common sense here....
4) Vapor loss, please, seriously.....
Some good advise to get more $$ from a gallon of fuel is to keep your car in proper operating condition. That includes engine tune ups, oil changes, air filter, and most important keep the tire pressure correct and make sure your alignment is within spec as well. That saves fuel, not how or when you fill up..... seriously......
#18
My co-worker was just telling me about all this stuff last week. Two items listed are new to me. I had no idea that there were speed settings on the trigger. I thought the speed was the same, just that the three clicks were there so the nozzle is compatible with every vehicle on the street.
Some good advise to get more $$ from a gallon of fuel is to keep your car in proper operating condition. That includes engine tune ups, oil changes, air filter, and most important keep the tire pressure correct and make sure your alignment is within spec as well. That saves fuel, not how or when you fill up..... seriously......
Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-25-2008 at 04:43 PM.
#20
1) Ridiculous, ground temps remain stable.
2) I'll agree
3) It should be the other way around, a full tank weighs more. More weight to pull around in the car will hurt fuel economy. Common sense here....
4) Vapor loss, please, seriously.....
Some good advise to get more $$ from a gallon of fuel is to keep your car in proper operating condition. That includes engine tune ups, oil changes, air filter, and most important keep the tire pressure correct and make sure your alignment is within spec as well. That saves fuel, not how or when you fill up..... seriously......
2) I'll agree
3) It should be the other way around, a full tank weighs more. More weight to pull around in the car will hurt fuel economy. Common sense here....
4) Vapor loss, please, seriously.....
Some good advise to get more $$ from a gallon of fuel is to keep your car in proper operating condition. That includes engine tune ups, oil changes, air filter, and most important keep the tire pressure correct and make sure your alignment is within spec as well. That saves fuel, not how or when you fill up..... seriously......
2)
3)I feel where your coming from but more air in your tank allows for some gas to evaporate.
4) Think of it as pouring a beer (coke), the faster you poor, the more foam (fizz) you have, the slower you poor the more beverage you get and better taste!!
I'll agree with you 100% on the tune ups and stuff
#21
#24
The other day when I got gas I did try the speed settings. The speed difference between 1 and 3 is pretty darn close as it is......at least at the Shell gas station I always go to. I had to really pay attention to notice the difference in speed.
#26
Hahaha I didn't know we had such penny pinchers here!
Liquid is denser when its cold - obviously but guess what? Fuel is stored far enough below that there is NO change between day and night. Another thing you get better gas mileage when your car is warm (warm outside).
Filling up when your 1/2 full doesn't make sense either. The extra weight will outweigh the unmeasurable amount of vapor loss.
Tippy Toes had the best suggestion. Light sweet crude oil is a commodity which can be publicly traded. There are also a bunch of options that will appreciate enough to save more than these ridiculous "tricks"
Perform regular maintenance, inflate tires to their recommended, and don't drive like your at lemans.
Liquid is denser when its cold - obviously but guess what? Fuel is stored far enough below that there is NO change between day and night. Another thing you get better gas mileage when your car is warm (warm outside).
Filling up when your 1/2 full doesn't make sense either. The extra weight will outweigh the unmeasurable amount of vapor loss.
Tippy Toes had the best suggestion. Light sweet crude oil is a commodity which can be publicly traded. There are also a bunch of options that will appreciate enough to save more than these ridiculous "tricks"
Perform regular maintenance, inflate tires to their recommended, and don't drive like your at lemans.
#31
The reason its illegal in Oregon is so that they can give the bottom feeders (and teenagers) of society a job, thus, pumping your gas, it's also adding cost to the gas for them to pump it, which would suck if I lived there, but I suppose I could justify it with no income / sales tax. Plus, gas in San Francisco is really pricey nowadays so i'll be trying several of these. I usually fill up from almost Empty during the day or night, sometimes when they're filling up.
Gasbuddy.com could probably save you more money then these tips though.
Gasbuddy.com could probably save you more money then these tips though.
Last edited by Mysticcal; 04-26-2008 at 11:23 PM.
#34
#35
Here is what I do that ACTUALLY gets me much better gas mileage.
1.) The engine is most efficient at higher loads but lower RPM's. I accelerate with 3/4 throttle all the time and shift at 2000-2500RPM. It is more efficient to do this and get to your cruising speed as quickly as possible. If there are cars in front of me that I would end up rear ending by doing this, I try to use as heavy throttle as possible, but just shift shorter, like 1500 or 2000 RPM. This is when the engine is most efficient. In theory full throttle with short shifts is actually the most efficient however most cars and ECU's enrichen the mixture at close to or at full.
2.) This isn't very safe if you don't know what you are doing and is illegal is some states, but they call it "arky overdrive." When I am cruising down a hill at 35+ MPH I usually am in either 4th or 5th gear and I put the clutch in, turn the engine off and then quickly turn the ignition back to the ON position.
-- It is crucial to turn the ignition back to ON because this makes sure you didn't turn the key back far enough to lock the wheel. I don't have to explain why this is bad for the wheel to lock
-- Just to take note of, with the engine off nothing provides more vacuum to the brake booster. You only have one application of the brakes at full power, after that, your braking will start to diminish quickly. As soon as you release the brake pedal any at all, the next time you go down further on the pedal you will have less braking ability
--Your power steering isn't active, you can steer the car but beware of more effort needed to do so.
-- Always leave it in gear and hold the clutch, with the ignition in the on position if something happens where you have to brake hard a second time or accelerate it is as simple as releasing the clutch and your engine is running again.
This can save gas on long downhills. In theory newer fuel injected cars shut off the injectors when the engine is running under no load at a higher RPM, however for a 3000lb car with a 3.0L V6, my maxima has miserable engine breaking, thus I have concluded our ECU's do not cut out all fuel and thus some can be saved by coasting longer distances with the engine off.
3.) Another thing is planning your stops with off-ramps, coming to intersections you know will be red or stop signs. Also distancing yourself from traffic. Any time you hit the brakes is wasted energy. Think of it as taking energy away that you put in with gasoline (aka your right foot). If you are tailgating someone and have to constantly be hitting the brakes and the gas, that is horribly inefficient. If you can stay far enough back and plan things so you only have to hit the brakes as minimally as possible to account for traffic it is much more efficient. Also, this kinda pisses people off who are impatient and behind you, but if a light goes red, or you are going down an off ramp, just take your foot off the gas and slowly coast in.
--First, why use tons of gas to maintain 60mph then slam on the brakes when you can not use gas and let your car slow to 30mph or so and then brake? Chances are you will be waiting at the traffic light anyway, except you just used less gas, less brakes, and have cooler brakes (its not good to stop on hot brakes at all) than the 60mph person.
-- Second, chances are by approaching it slower it may even turn green by the time you get there, meaning you don't have to waste energy by coming to a stop and accelerating again.
#36
Originally Posted by modenaf1
thus I have concluded our ECU's do not cut out all fuel
#37
3.) Another thing is planning your stops with off-ramps, coming to intersections you know will be red or stop signs. Also distancing yourself from traffic. Any time you hit the brakes is wasted energy. Think of it as taking energy away that you put in with gasoline (aka your right foot). If you are tailgating someone and have to constantly be hitting the brakes and the gas, that is horribly inefficient. If you can stay far enough back and plan things so you only have to hit the brakes as minimally as possible to account for traffic it is much more efficient. Also, this kinda pisses people off who are impatient and behind you, but if a light goes red, or you are going down an off ramp, just take your foot off the gas and slowly coast in.
--First, why use tons of gas to maintain 60mph then slam on the brakes when you can not use gas and let your car slow to 30mph or so and then brake? Chances are you will be waiting at the traffic light anyway, except you just used less gas, less brakes, and have cooler brakes (its not good to stop on hot brakes at all) than the 60mph person.
-- Second, chances are by approaching it slower it may even turn green by the time you get there, meaning you don't have to waste energy by coming to a stop and accelerating again.
--First, why use tons of gas to maintain 60mph then slam on the brakes when you can not use gas and let your car slow to 30mph or so and then brake? Chances are you will be waiting at the traffic light anyway, except you just used less gas, less brakes, and have cooler brakes (its not good to stop on hot brakes at all) than the 60mph person.
-- Second, chances are by approaching it slower it may even turn green by the time you get there, meaning you don't have to waste energy by coming to a stop and accelerating again.
#38
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
in a 4 cyl car the "optimal" speed for gas mileage is ~57 mph.
in a 6, the "optimal" speed is a little over 62. every mph you go over that 62, because of the drag coeffeciant due to the increased air resistance, is like paying 50% more per gallon of gas (im looking for the link....when i find it ill post)
i try to keep myself below 80 on the highway but it rarely works because everyone goes at least 75 where i live.
driving under 65 in the far right lane with all the old poeple and drug traffickers just feels ridiculous.
in a 4 cyl car the "optimal" speed for gas mileage is ~57 mph.
in a 6, the "optimal" speed is a little over 62. every mph you go over that 62, because of the drag coeffeciant due to the increased air resistance, is like paying 50% more per gallon of gas (im looking for the link....when i find it ill post)
i try to keep myself below 80 on the highway but it rarely works because everyone goes at least 75 where i live.
driving under 65 in the far right lane with all the old poeple and drug traffickers just feels ridiculous.
#40
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
in a 4 cyl car the "optimal" speed for gas mileage is ~57 mph.
in a 6, the "optimal" speed is a little over 62. every mph you go over that 62, because of the drag coeffeciant due to the increased air resistance, is like paying 50% more per gallon of gas (im looking for the link....when i find it ill post)
i try to keep myself below 80 on the highway but it rarely works because everyone goes at least 75 where i live.
driving under 65 in the far right lane with all the old poeple and drug traffickers just feels ridiculous.
in a 4 cyl car the "optimal" speed for gas mileage is ~57 mph.
in a 6, the "optimal" speed is a little over 62. every mph you go over that 62, because of the drag coeffeciant due to the increased air resistance, is like paying 50% more per gallon of gas (im looking for the link....when i find it ill post)
i try to keep myself below 80 on the highway but it rarely works because everyone goes at least 75 where i live.
driving under 65 in the far right lane with all the old poeple and drug traffickers just feels ridiculous.
This really depends on the car, Not all 4cyl are the same. It depends on gearing as well.
I wouldn't live by this rule but, more drag does = lower mpg.