1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Now I got my water temp sensor figured out, anyone know what's the thread size for the OEM oil pressure switch? I need to find a T so I can run the OEM oil pressure switch and the auto meter oil pressure sender at the same time. The auto meter gauge comes with a 1/8" NPT sensor. There is an adaptor to what looks like 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

I think that AutoMeter adapter # I gave you last time also is for the Oil Pressure too. At least according to the label.

matt calder

iTrader: (2)

Tony, I cant remember for the life of me. But if you know what the thread size is for the stock sending unit. The autometer sending unit should be one size above that.

White96MaxSE

I'm trying to install an oil pressure arrangement similar to 1Max2NV's setup, but I don't know for sure what the threaded hole in the block for the OEM oil sender is for my 1996 Nissan Maxima.

Is it the same as a 99 Max? I am about ready to remove the OEM sender and try to find nuts that fit it to determine the size, but if anyone can help me out I would sure appreciate it.

M16x1.5 seems to be too large given that looking up by the oil pan the threaded portion of the sender looks much smaller than M16x1.5

Autometer makes a M16x1.5 (male) to 1/8" NPT (female) and they also sell a 1/8" BSPT (male) to 1/8" NPT (female).

I ordered the M16x1.5 (male) to 1/8" NPT (female), but I wonder if it is right (I haven't received it yet)

Anybody know for sure?

White96MaxSE

White96MaxSE

I removed my oil pressure sender switch for the idiot light down by the oil pan, and it will screw into a 1/8" NPT female T, but it is not as tight as an actual 1/8" NPT male sender itself.

Also, the 1/8" male NPT will not thread into the hole in the block.

This leads me to believe tha the Autometer Part #2269 which is an
adapter that goes from 1/8" (male)BSPT (British Standard Taper Pipe Thread) to 1/8" (female) NPT is the correct fitting to go from the oil pressure sending unit hole to the T adapter with 1/8" NPT (female)
ends.

Then, on the T one can screw in the Autometer Oil Pressure Sending Unit (electrical) and then one can order Autometer 15psi (equal to the 1/8" BSPT OEM sender switch) Part # 3241, and in this way we don't have to have a custom adapter fitting made that would need to have 1/8" BSPT female on one end and a 1/8" male NPT on the other end to actually use the OEM oil pressure sending unit switch.

The one question that comes up for me is that the location of the original sending unit on the back of the block near the oil pan is pretty close to the axle, and this makes me nervous.

Could I just get some 200 psi fuel line hose and a 1/8" to ribbed hose adapter on either end of the hose and mount the large Autometer Oil Pressure sender Unit a small distance from the T or should I use something else more secure in my oil system?

Anybody have a good idea of what kind of bracket to use to mount the sender?

How far should I run the hose from down there?
Is two feet too long? Could I bring the sender up on the passenger side to the firewall?

Anybody willing to help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

That's what I'm plan on doing. Is to run a #4 or #3 SS braided hose so I can mount the aftermarket sensor and the OEM sensor on something solid away from moving parts. Autometer part #3234 (3ft, 3/16"ID hose) will do the trick. You might need some #3AN to 1/8" NPT pipe adaptors. They are pretty cheap ~$3. As for a bracket, look for something like what OEM uses for the fuel filter. The bracket needs to give the autometer sender case a good ground connection. The autometer sendor grounds via it's brass/metal case. Thanks for the info on the 1/8" BSPT OEM hole. So the autometer # 3241 15psi sender is a good replacement for the OEM dummy sender? Good find.

White96MaxSE

Hi 1Max2NV;

Yep, I went to the Nissan dealer and the parts guy showed me the new OEM sender and it said P15 on it. We both felt that this was 15 PSI trigger point for the low oil pressure warning light.

He told me that some guys racing on the track will actually buy one of the other Autometer Oil Pressure Senders that trigger the light at 20 psi or I think 24 psi. At idle the light is then on, but when racing you know if the light comes on that it is lower than 24 psi at rpm, then it might give you a few extra seconds to shut down the car and protect the engine due to a oil pump failure, etc.

I called Autometer and they said they had three senders available and the Part #3241 is rated at 15psi. I called Summit Racing today and they have it for 13.95 (22.00 list).

They also have the adapter that screws into the block (1/8" BSPT male) to (1/8" NPT female) which is Autometer Part #2269 for 10.39 each.

I was going to order them today because they told me that Autometer made a braided stainless steel hose, but I wasn't sure what length to get so I decided to wait and look around the engine bay.

Autometer Part #3234 is a 3 foot 3/16" ID Stainless Steel Hose?

I was thinking about getting the three footer, but I'm glad to hear that is the same length you were considering.

The #3AN end is a male while the 1/8" NPT end is female on this adapter right? Is this a hardware store item or should I ask Summit Racing to sell me this as well? Do you know a part number?

One thing you might want to confirm about your oil pressure sender.
Call the dealer and ask them for the part number for your Maxima (isn't it a 99 model?) and make sure it is the same as the 96 which is Part # 25240-89960. That is the one I confirmed was the one for my car.

I have the afternoon off tomorrow so I am going to the junkyard.
I'm going to try to get a fuel filter mount from a Maxima in the yard, and I'm thinking of getting another dash dimmer switch to go in the vacate location just to the right of the stock dimmer switch and use the second one as a dedicated dimmer for the gauge panel.

By the way, I bought Ultra-lite Gauges, but I decided I liked the Phantoms better to go with the white face gauges in my Maxima, so I turned around and ordered the Autometer Phantoms. I think this is what "the blue" has pictures posted of.

Hey, 1Max2NV, Thanks to you as well for the info on the stainless steel hose length and size.

Do you have any idea where you might mount it on the firewall?

Maybe the bracket could piggyback off of other bolts already on the firewall to avoid drilling holes, or if not someone mentioned some blind fasteners that can be inserted into a hole providing threads without having to access the other side of the panel.

Thanks again.

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Autometer ss hose comes with both female #3 AN ends. You will need two "male pipe thread to AN adapter" The ss hose might come with some adaptors, but I would just buy some ahead of time just in case. Summit racing's return policy is awesome, if you ended up not needing it. Here's a link to the adaptor.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=499&part=9983

White96MaxSE

Thanks for the picture of the 3AN Adapter. I called and ordered two of them on my order for the stainless steel hose.

The fuel filter holder from the firewall of a maxima in the junkyard
along with another bracket that holds a small piece of the plumbing worked great as a bracket for the oil pressure sender setup.

I bent the stainless steel fuel filter holder in a vise so that it wrapped tight around the oil pressure sender (removed the rubber pads that were glued to the inside of the bracket), then I drilled a hole through the bracket on both sides and ran a 2 1/2" stainless steel bolt with lock washers and all so that I could tighten it down tight around the sender.

I attached this bracket to the other bracket I pulled from the junkyard and attached the assembly to the bolt on the intake manifold at the back that holds the plastic loop that guides the throttle and cruise control cables.

I used a hose retainer to attach T-connector coming off of the left side (when facing the engine bay) of the sender to another nearby hose for support on that end.

I'm testing it in this location to make sure it rides their ok while I wait for the rest of the fittings to come in.

White96MaxSE

White96MaxSE

I tried to remove the OEM oil pressure sender in the block near the oil pan today.

I had all of the pieces I thought I needed to install the oil pressure sender assembly I have put together.

I had the Part #2269 which is a 1/8" NPT on one end and a 1/8" BSPT on the other end that I was convinced would fit the threaded hole in the block where the OEM sender had been.

Well, It doesn't fit!

I've purchased a couple of Autometer adapters, but both are too big for the hole in the block.

I am putting out another plea for help.

Does anyone know what the proper size is for the OEM hole in the block of the 1996 Maxima for the OEM Oil Sender Unit?

I don't know now if this is Metric (it's not M16x1.5 that is too big), British Standard Taper Pipe Thread (1/8" BSPT is close, but too big) or what (3AN male will start to screw into the hole, but I wouldn't think I would use that).

1/8" NPT will not fit it, although the sender will screw in loosely into a 1/8" NPT female T connector

Is there anyone on the .org that has figured out what size of thread this oil pressure sender and the accompanying hole in the block is for this?

Anybody that can lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in Advance.

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

This is not good. I bought the same adaptor too, but I was going to try it sometime this week. Probably need to take that oil pressure sendor put a thread pitch gauge on it and use a caliper to measure the size.

White96MaxSE

Is it possible that it will fit, but that since it was the block itself I was being too careful? I wasn't going to force it.

The 1/8" BSPT Male adapter from Autometer will start and begin easily threading into a standard 1/8" NPT T adapter that Autometer sent to me and the OEM sender will screw into that same hole loosely.

I couldn't get that 1/8" BSPT Male adapter to even start in the hole in the block, but of course the OEM sender goes right back in there.

Where would be a good place to get someone to put a thread pitch gauge and caliper on the OEM oil pressure sender?

Auto Parts Store?
Machine Shop?

I was thinking of taking the OEM Oil Pressure Sender over to the hardware store and finding the nut that would fit it. Your idea is better if the tools can be found.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

A good machine shop should able to find out for you.

White96MaxSE

I got my Autometer Gauges installed and wired.

The water temperature and voltmeter are operational.

I punch a hole with a 36" drill bit into the Large Boot that goes thru the firewall just below the heater hoses.

I then manage to get a coat hanger down that hole and into the interior just to the right of the center console.

I just have to install the stainless steel hose and do a few quick wire changes to hopefully get the oil pressure gauge working.

Here is where I am stuck.

Before using the long drill bit to punch the hole from the firewall side I had tried to use the bit on the interior side out and
I unseated the large 4" or so rubber grommet from its firewall hole.

I have tried trying to reach around to it from below, from the top and from the driver's side, and I haven't been able to get enough of my hand on the grommet to force it back into the hole. It actually has a shield that sits around it mounted to the firewall and it looks like I am going to have to remove this shield, drain the coolant and disconnect the heater hoses, and maybe remove other stuff to get down there so that I can put the damn grommet back into the hole so that water goesn't get in from there and so that I don't have any fumes from the engine coming into the interior.

Does anyone have any ideas before I try to tackle this next weekend?

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

It just much easier to drill a new hole and put a rubber grommet on it. That what I did.

White96MaxSE

Ok, I should have probably drilled another hole in the firewall, but I didn't and now I've got a large boot dislodged from its proper location and four of us have tried to put it back in place and can't get to it.

I'll have to go for it by removing parts back there next weekend.
One of those dumb mistakes that's got to be corrected.

My stainless steel hose for the oil pressure sender would just be in the way so I will have to wait to set that up until after I fix this boot on the firewall.

Did you get your oil pressure gauge operating yet?

The dedicated dimmer switch for the gauge lights is pretty cool. That extra dimmer switch worked out pretty nice.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

White96MaxSE

This Saturday I got the wiring boot reinstalled in the firewall.
Had to remove the lower rear engine mount and torque bar to get to it, but I now know it wont be leaking water around the wiring and I was able to get some silicon sealant around the hole I made where the gauge wires pass through the wiring boot.

Later on, I began to finish up the gauge install with the last task left which is the plumbing for the oil pressure gauge.

I removed the OEM oil pressure sender from the block only to find out that the latest Autometer adapter #2265 (the M10x1.00 to 1/8" NPT) doesn't work in the block (the is the third adapter that I've tried that hasn't fit).

This time a mechanic friend of mine brought his tap and die set over to the garage and we found a tap for 1/8 NPT #27 (I don't yet know the difference between #27 tap and a #28 tap, but I assume it's thread pitch) and he tapped the block out to accept the 3AN male to 1/8" NPT male adapter. We added an extra quart of oil and then started the engine and then immediately turned it off and allowed the oil to drain out of the engine to force any metal from the tap out of the hole. Next, we put teflon (from the tube) onto the threads and tightened it into the block.

Next, I ran the stainless steel 3 foot hose from the sender T-fitting that I had fastened to the intake manifold down to the fitting at the back of the block behind the oil pan.

I picked up a couple of bolts on the way down and used stainless steel clips with rubber grommets to secure the stainless steel hose at a couple of places from one end to the other.

Ok, So now the oil pressure sender for the gauge (electrical) and the Autometer OEM replacement sender (<15 PSI turns on the dash idiot light) are mounted on a T at the top of the engine bay on the intake manifold.

I started the car and cold the Oil Pressure Gauge was working and showed 75 PSI at high idle.

As the car warmed up it dropped to 30 PSI, we checked for oil leaks, saw none, and I decided to take the car for a test drive around town.

What I have discovered is that the car at operating temperature is in the 45 to 55 psi range in normal driving, but at stop signs with the car in drive (automatic transmission) the idiot light comes on and the oil pressure seemed to be about 12.5 psi (this is at 600 RPM).

If I shift the car to either Park or Neutral the engine RPM rises to 700 RPM and the idiot light goes out.

I have decided that the car at idle in drive at 600 RPM with the 3 foot stainless steel hose going up to the intake manifold that the oil pressure reading is slightly lower up there as opposed to having the OEM sender directly plugged into the block as I have never seen the oil pressure idiot light come on in my car ever in its entire lifetime.

I am now considering leaving the oil pressure gauge's electrical sender unit up on the manifold, but relocating the T-connector and the Autometer OEM Replacement Sender back down near to the hole in the block to try to eliminate the idiot light at idle.

Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions about this situation?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

I just read of the FSM. Looks like the OEM oil pressure trigger point is at 10psi @ idle. I didn't notice this until now. I suggest you just reuse the OEM oil pressure sender and retap the T to accept the OEM oil pressure sender.

White96MaxSE

Hi 1MAX2NV;

Thanks a bunch for letting me know about this one.

I'll look into it.

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

1/8" NPT #27. 27 is pretty much standard thread pitch for 1/8" NPT. What could be the correct size for the OEM oil pressure switch?

White96MaxSE

We can screw the OEM Oil Pressure Switch into a 1/8" NPT female on one of the T fittings, but it is loose. The threads appear to be the same, but the diameter of the OEM oil pressure switch is slightly smaller than the 1/8" NPT male on the 3AN (male)/1/8" NPT Male adapter so Bryan (the mechanic friend) had two taps that we were looking at, and if I'm not mistaken one was 1/8" NPT #27 and one was 1/8" NPT #28.

We tapped the hole in the block to be 1/8" NPT to fit the standard male 1/8 NPT on the blue male to male adapter and connected it directly to the stainless steel hose.

Maybe the OEM was 1/8" NPT, but with more tapered threads?

(You know, this means that the OEM switch with the 10 psi trigger point will already be loose in the 1/8" NPT female hole of the T and it may need to be screwed in with maybe something like the RED hardening loctite. Can you think of something else to use on to put the 10 psi sender in the T connector with to hold it in there.)

TIA,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

The 1/8" NPT #28 is as known as 1/8" BSPT. You said the 1/8" BSPT/NPT #28 was alittle too big for the hole in the block right? Maybe it's like a 1/8" NPT #26 or less. Yeah..the OEM is something like 1/8" NPT but with more taper/smaller dia. Give red locitite a try. OR find some sort of cooper washer to crush between the T fitting hole and the OEM oil pressure switch.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

There is another type 1/8" NPT(S) for Straight. Is the OEM oil pressure switch thread taper at all?

White96MaxSE

Yep, the 1/8" BSPT was a little too big and wouldn't start in the hole.

The OEM sender's threads look tapered to others that have looked at it(I'm feeling uncomfortable stating anything conclusively at this point), but remember that I am able to put a nut that is M10x1.00 Extra Fine Thread onto the sender's male threads successfully (and it felt snug) that lead me to conclude that the #2265 Autometer Adapter was the right one.

This last adapter (#2265 M10x1.00) wouldn't start in the hole either, but neither would the blue 3AN male to 1/8" NPT adapter, but that 1/8" NPT male on that adapter would screw in nicely to every T fitting and 1/8" NPT female that we could find in the shop.

So Bryan (mechanic) tried the tap in all of these 1/8" NPT female fittings and then we decided to tap the hole in the block.

White96MaxSE

White96MaxSE

Hey Tony;

I swapped the Autometer oil pressure switch with the OEM oil pressure switch on the T fitting with Red Loctite this morning.

I'll let you know if the light stays away today as I test drive the car. (No leaks so far)

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

I have a craftsman metric tap/die set. I got my 1/8" NPT #28 die out and threaded it onto the autometer 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adaptor. The die still had 4 more threads left to cut and make the autometer adaptor more taper. I could cut it 6 to 7 more times before the die bottoms out on the base. I'm going to try to make the 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adaptor work somehow. If those 3 to 4 extra thread would allow me to start into the bottom, then I'm golden.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adaptor worked on my 1999. The thread started in the engine block without any problem. I had to run to sear's twice to get the correct 1" deep socket to remove the oem oil pressure switch. Here are some pictures. I was able to reuse the oem oil pressure switch on the T fitting. It started loose but snagged up at the end. I pretty much had to bottom it out on the T. Fired the engine up and no oil leak.

The T fitting.
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01030.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01031.JPG

The 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT autometer adaptor.
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01032.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01034.JPG

Since I was under the car, I took some pics of my EGT gauge probe.

http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01035.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01036.JPG

White96MaxSE

Tony;

Nice pictures. Sounds good. I'm glad it worked out for you.

What does the #28 stand for in units?

Did you say that was the 1/8" BSPT that you used the die to add more threads to?

To answer the question of this thread finally. What is the thread of the OEM oil pressure switch hole in the block, Tony?

I didn't have a bit of problem today after using Loctite on the OEM switch and putting it on the T (with the 10 psi trigger point).

My oil pressures today at various RPMs:

12.5 psi at idle (automatic at 600 rpm in drive)

50 psi at 2000 rpm
67.5 psi at 2500 rpm
80 psi at 3500 rpm
100 psi at 5000 rpm

Do you know what yours are approximately for comparison.
Keep in mind I have 178,000 miles on my car.

No leaks here either.

I sure would like to have three more gauges in the center dash.

Vacuum Gauge, Transmission Temperature, and maybe Oil Temp.

I bought an extra HKS 3 hole panel in case I go for it.

I have a Double DIN Bose so I may have to wait to swap in a single DIN aftermarket deck to free up the other DIN location.

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

The #28 is the pitch. I think that means 28 threads per inch. I guess I wasn't very clear in my previous post . I didn't make any modification to the autometer adaptor. It worked right out the box. I bet my 1999 oil pressure switch has a different part number than your 1996 oil pressure switch. I can say that on the 1999, the thread of the oil pressure switch is 1/8" BSPT.

I think your are stuck with the threads in the block unless you use helicoil to make the hole smaller. I haven't able to drive the car anywhere since it's stuck in the garage. My driveway is getting worked on. Replaced the old asphalt with concrete.

All there for me to do now is drive the car around and double check for leaks.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Wasn't that the part# from autometer I gave you last time (#2269 - 1/8 NPT to 1/8 BSPT)? I thought you had said it didn't work... or was that someone else?

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

It didn't work for White96MaxSE, but worked on my 1999.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I know this thread is old, but help me out:

I'm trying to remove the OEM oil sender so I can install my V1 SuperCharger to insert the supplied T fitting.

How do i remove the sender?!?

i was able to disconnect the wiring to it via the harness, but i can't get the sender itself out.......Is it the larger bolt on the outside? If so, what size ratchet do i need?

i tried up to a 22mm, and that's all I had. I decided to give up until i can find out what size i need.

Thanks!
IanS

ericdwong

Read my FAQ in the 4th gen forum about this. Its a 1 1/16" DEEP WELL socket.

MajorMax96SE

White96MaxSE: Did you ever find out the thread size for the OEM oil pressure sending unit? I'm still trying to hook up my oil pressure gauge on my 96, but I haven't been able to, due to the fact that I can't get anything to screw into the block. Is there an adapter that will work????

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

If I remember correctly, he used a die set to get the autometer fitting to a smaller size. I don't remember the exact number of the die. It's a 1/8 NPT but with some funky thread pitch number.

White96MaxSE

MajorMax96SE,

1MAX2NV is right, We never figured out the thread size for the OEM oil pressure sender unit. We ended up tapping the engine block to 1/8 NPT Standard Pitch and threaded the 3AN male fitting into it to attach the stainless steel hose.

On the T fitting where I wanted to run the OEM sender (10 psi at idle turns on the idiot light) I used RED loctite and bottomed it out in the T fitting.

Sorry, I can't give you the answer you need.

White96MaxSE

MajorMax96SE

How do you tap the engine block to a different thread size? Where did you get the T fitting?

White96MaxSE

Hi;

The brass T fitting with 1/8 NPT female can be purchased for a couple of dollars at almost any hardware store.

Earlier in this thread 1Max2NV provides a picture of the 1/8" NPT male to 3AN adapter that I used in the engine block that was tapped out to 1/8" NPT with a Standard Pitch 1/8" NPT tap. This adapter could be purchased from Summit Racing. That is where I purchased the stainless steel hose as well.

I used the adapter at the engine block, then connected the stainless steel hose and mounted the T on the other end of the stainless steel hose on the top of the motor where I put the OEM sender and the oil pressure sender for my Autometer Gauge.

The full details of how I did this are on pages 1 and 2 of this thread.

Reread that information to see if it becomes any clearer. You may be approaching this differently than I did because you desire a different result.

White96MaxSE

MajorMax96SE

Well, I finally got my oil pressure gauge to work. After three failed attempts at trying to get an adaptor for the oil pressure sending unit, I took matters into my own hands. I ended up using a file to "skinny up" the top of the 1/8" BSPT adaptor that I got from Autometer. The threads are the same, but the OEM unit has a narrower tip. Anyway, after a few trial and error tests I finally got the 1/8" BSPT to start to thread into the block. No leaks. I was so HAPPY!

One question for you guys, I understand the idea of using both your OEM sending unit and the Autometer one, but how did you hook up the OEM one if its on top of the motor and not down where it used to be? I didn't hook up the old one and I have no problems (i.e. warning lights).

BTW, pics of the gauges in action are on my homepage. Night pics soon.

One more thing, what should my oil pressure be at WOT and at idle???

Thanks guys

White96MaxSE

Hey MajorMax96SE;

1Max2nv and I both used a 3 foot stainless steel hose with 3AN fittings on each end.

One end attached to an adapter at the hole where the OEM sender was located down by the oil pan.

The other end went to a T fitting mounted in a bracket on top of the engine.

Then, both the Autometer Oil Pressure Sender and the OEM idiot light sender were attached to the two places on the T fitting.

The wire from the original OEM sender was extended up to the OEM sender on top of the engine (actually you can find the wire in the top of the loom on top of the engine and splice in there and leave the connector in place down by the original hole in the block), and the wire from the Oil pressure gauge in the dash was attached to the Autometer oil pressure sender unit.

When I start my car cold the oil pressure jumps to 75psi. It slowly drops as the car warms up until at idle it reads around 13-14 psi. The idiot light on the dash will come on if it would ever drop to below 12 psi.

I noticed that when I step on the gas 2000 rpm is around 40 psi, 3000 rpm is around 60 psi and 4000 rpm is 80, and 5000 rpm is around 95 psi. All of these are estimates. I'm not sure about WOT, but I would say if the car is warmed up (which it should be when you hit WOT) then 100-110 PSI would be pretty normal.

1Max2NV will probably post up his thoughts on oil pressure at various rpms or at WOT.

I'm glad you got everything working for your car. I was initially nervous about the setup because I didn't want to catastrophically lose oil so I checked the connections frequently at first, but all is well with my oil pressure mods so far (about 9 months).

Did you leave the wire to the OEM sender disconnected completely or did you attach it to the Autometer oil pressure sender along with the wire from the Autometer gauge?

It seems that it might throw off the accuracy of the readings if both were attached to the Autometer sender itself.

That part of you post was confusing to me so you might clarify that.

White96MaxSE