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rear caliper pins seizing

Old Nov 2, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #1  
twiggy144's Avatar
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From: Montreal
rear caliper pins seizing

I cleaned and relubed the 4 calipers today. I am always surprised about the rear wheels calipers pins being always seized everytime I service them. The last time I lubed them was only 12 months ago, yet, they seized in that short period of time. I must have caught them early, because the rear rotors had a good appereance, no rust.

This time the pins were very hard to pull out, I had to remove the caliper brackets, take the brackets on the bench, and clamp in the vise to remove the pins.

Upon re-assembly, I removed the small plastic sleeves in both pins (can't remember if upper or lower pin). This plastic sleeve was making it difficult to reinsert the pins into the caliper. Now the caliper pins have much free play without the plastic sleeve, maybe it will prevent future seizing. I used coopper antiseize grease as pin lubricant as a trial. Before I was using the green caliper grease. I also gently filed the brake pad stubs that go in the pad retainer clips, to make them move freely and have them apply normal pressure on the rotors when braking.

I know cars with rear disc brakes have a tendency to have the rear calipers seize, but it seems my Maxima experience is frequent seizing. I live in a rust country, that does not help it. Do you want to share your experience here ?
Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:42 AM
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10 years, 165,000 miles, NJ wintes and I've never had an issue with rear calipers on my car. I think I took them apart once, maybe 100K ago. Packed them with high temp grease and have never looked back again.

Great idea on filing the pad nubs so they move freely. Don't forget to put plenty of anti sieze where the pad nubs slide. I'm a huge fan of anti sieze. Every nut and bolt I remove gets a brush of that silver stuff before it's reassembled.
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #3  
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that's all what I wanted to know
Old Nov 6, 2009 | 03:05 PM
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You're going to have to put a little elbow into it...and just a big cheater.
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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The rear caliper carrier is bolted to the wheel bearing housing and is fitted with two guide pins. The caliper bolts to these pins. The pins move in and out in the carrier and allow the caliper to center itself o*n the rotor. These rear pins typically seize up due to degradation of the lubricant and intrusion of water.
Old Nov 22, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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From: IT DOESN'T MATTER WHO CARES!!
The best way from preventing rust and corrosion is by pulling the calipers apart when your doing your brake changes. If there is any rust sand the pin down and If there's no grease,grease it down. That's how I have been putting up with my calipers and they have no rust because I have been greasing the pins up nicely. If you grease the pins up the right way you won't have to worry about the rust and corrosion. Make the rubber boots that are sitting on the pin are not cracked or worn and they are covering the pins up nicely.

Last edited by vqmaxman; Nov 22, 2009 at 10:06 PM.
Old May 5, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
10 years, 165,000 miles, NJ wintes and I've never had an issue with rear calipers on my car. I think I took them apart once, maybe 100K ago. Packed them with high temp grease and have never looked back again.

Great idea on filing the pad nubs so they move freely. Don't forget to put plenty of anti sieze where the pad nubs slide. I'm a huge fan of anti sieze. Every nut and bolt I remove gets a brush of that silver stuff before it's reassembled.
Would wheel bearing grease work?
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