I changed my oil the other day, and being that I want to take care of her, I bought Royal Purple Oil/Filter.
I haven't really noticed that much of a difference, I think its just because my old oil was nasty.
I wanted to know if anyone here has used it and noticed a difference or recommends another type of oil (preferably that isn't $9/quart)
If you guys have had good luck with it, I'll keep getting it, plus I can keep getting royal purple stickers with my oil filter

 

ive found Royal Purple to be the best, i used the ATF on the 3rd gen and it really helped the tranny (shifted better and went into gear better). i run Royal Purple 5w-30 oil in the Supra and its working good.

 

you're a sucker for paying $9 a quart to change the oil on a damn maxima

 

lol i paid $12 a litre for Royal Purple, for something that only has to be done every few months its not a big deal

 

Doesnt it last like 15,000 miles right....

 

 

I've always used Mobile 1 full synthetic but after asking a few mechanic/track goers they swear by Royal purple.

Not sure if I want to give it a try or not. I seriously doubt it would make much a difference on an engine with 250,000 miles though.

 

As long as you do your oil changes on time your engine can care less what kind of oil you put in it as long as its new and complies with the standards.

 

There's a whole sub-forum devoted to this kinda stuff, OP.

Honestly, Royal Purple is nothing but a freaking marketing scheme. I wouldn't ever put any kind of oil with purple dye additives in it in my motor, just personally.

I've stuck with Mobil 1 full synthetic or Valvoline semi-synthetic. I also noticed with my 6MT (which burned oil) that it burned far less Mobil 1 than any other type of oil I put in it. Most full synthetics are now supposed to be able to go up to 7,500 miles between changes, but I'd never let any motor oil go beyond 5,000 miles at most.

 

I was looking for the right section to post it in, I completely missed the maintenance section, my bad

When I was getting the oil I was debating between the RP and Mobil 1, it ended up being like a $15 difference, I figured I'd at least try the RP out because of what I've heard about it. If I'm going to keep getting it, I don't know, I wanna give the car the best crap I can buy now because of the low mileage.

thanks for the input guys

 

i dunno, i change it every 4-5 months and usually in that time i'll only put a few hundred kilometers on it

even with my JDMness i like Royal Purple and that says alot lol

 

I've seen engines that used Mobil 1 with 150-200K miles on them that still had the crosshatching in the cylinder walls, and crank bearings that still looked virtually new.

 

petroleum based oil is in its way out in terms of being capable of protecting our engines. In the early days of automobiles, the oil used was pure unadulterated oil. As the technology for manufacturing engines to closer tolerances improved, chemical additives had to be added to prevent the oil from breaking down. The higher compression and closer tolerances of today's engines really challange the chemical companies to come up with additives to hold the oil molecules together.

Could Royal Purple have a superior blend of chemicals? I have no way of knowing, but I doubt it. If that level of chemicals existed, all the other brands would have it too. I believe, as was previously stated, that it is marketing hype.

But what I do believe is that as manufacturing technology continues to improve, synthetic oil will eventually be the recommended oil.

 

I have heard that those recommendations apply to mild driving (mostly highway miles). If you do severe driving(short trips, stop and go, etc) then that is when the 5,000 mile maximum oil change interval is recommended (even new car manufacturers put that in their owners manual IIRC)

 

My max has 210k, and I started doing the oil changes myself at 60k after the warranty expired. I always used castrol gtx dino juice, but switched to synthetic 2 changes ago.

imho there's no need for $9/qt. oil. I mean a GM car gets a Mobil1 oil change for $39.95 at the dealer, why spend $36 on oil alone when you're diy? Get a 5 qt. jug of whatever, synth is up to $27, but sometimes there are $20 deals.

 

you can get it in bulk and get a good discount though, i bought Royal Purple ATF by the case and got 15% off. oil i just buy individual bottles. you can get oil filters cheap on Ebay too if you buy it in case lots

 

I use the cheapest oil and filter I can find. Usually consists of a Walmart Super Tech filter with whatever conventional 10-30 is on sale. OEM parts for all other maintenance aside from fluids and lubes. A lot of good replacement parts can be found at junkyards on the cheap. My current brake pads, upper radiator hose, plug wires (NGK) and multiple other mint/like new parts have been found at the junkyard.

 

Pretty sure its 10k for mild driving and 7.5k for severe.

 

IMHO just use Mobil1 in 5qt jugs from Walmart, its $23 for regular, $26 for 15k mile.

If you have a high mileage car use Rotella T6 5w40, I think it is about $21 at walmart for a gallon jug, or you can find a five gallon bucket of it for $81 at Napa.

If you want cheaper Castrol GTX is typically around $13.50 on sale at Walmart for 5 quarts. And right now Napa has the Mobil Delvac 1300 on sale for $10-11 for a gallon (or maybe it is 5 quarts, I can't remember).

The problem is the Rotella and Delvac have higher phosphorus levels which can destroy your catalytic converter if your car burns oil, but if you have a higher mileage car its probably not doing anything anyway.

As far as Royal Purple, I've never used it and never intend to. Honestly 99% of the cars on this forum will be fine with Castrol GTX or Mobil1 if you want to go longer or need the benefits of a synthetic oil.

Semi synthetics are a waste of money. Most of the higher quality Dino oils use a good base oil and a lot of the oils use one of four VII additive packages (licensing through the API is expensive) and are pretty much the same oil considering the ratio of base oil to VII package. Most of it is just marketing.

I highly recommend using Wix oil filters. Napa has a big sale on the Napa gold oil filters at the moment, I just picked up about 20 of them for $3.60-3.80ish a piece.

FWIW I average 12,000 mile oil changes on my BMW using Mobil1 5w30 15,000mile oil. I use Rotella T6 in my motorcycle and change it every 2000 miles (shearing effect of the transmission destroys the VI package in the oil). The rest of my cars I use Castrol GTX or Delvac 1300 if I'm not using Mobil1 or Rotella.

 

A few things to note... the additive packages are changing to comply with emissions laws/requirements from the manufactures it doesn't have as much to do with engine performance. Zinc and Phosphorus are pretty much the best additives you can use, unfortunately they are also the most damaging to the catalysts in your cars catalytic converters, which has a federal warranty to contend with. To combat this there has been a huge shift to go with molybdenum disulfide which is a friction modifier. This is fine for pretty much everything but solid lifter/non-roller engines (IE: old muscle cars, molybdenum disulfide breaks down under the pressure where zinc doesn't, also other air cooled engines have some challenges) and motorcycles because of the wet clutches. Pretty much all modern engines use roller followers/lifters and do not reach temperatures or pressures where this is an issue.

Also race teams only need their oil to last <500 miles so it is a completely different ball game. UNLESS YOU ARE REBUILDING YOUR ENGINE EVERY 500 MILES DO NOT CONCERN YOURSELF WITH WHAT RACE CARS USE. I promise it offers absolutely no benefit to you.

Additionally because of a law suit back in the late 90's/early 2000's (I forget exactly), basically companies can call oils synthetic that are not truly synthetic. Most of them are a high quality Group III base oil, some of them use a Group V ester oil base stock. You guys can do more research if you are so inclined.

Royal Purple is a decent quality oil. I personally don't think the premium price is worth it hence my never using it and lack of interest in it but it is not bad by any means. I think you could find better places to spend money though if you are paying $9/qt but if you are happy with it, go for it.

 

Sweet, I've always used OEM Nissan but only have 3 left, 2 are made in China as I wanted to preserve the Japanese one.

I've never done my BMW myself as I have an extended warranty through 100k (7 yrs), but my mileage is so low that I basically got a free low mileage change throughout its life. I paid for one at 1,200, and just paid for one a month ago at 28k. If I were to DIY with the BMW I wouldn't fool around, use their LL01 oil, nothing else.

I think some have hit the nail on the head, probably any oil will do with frequent changes, and it is a Maxima. It didn't even come with synth from the factory....

 

For BMW's I use MANN filters, on anything with a cartridge I use Wix (Napa Gold) if they make it.

Nothing wrong with the LL01 oil, I used it for a long time in all my cars. Then my hook up went away so I switched to Mobil1. If my BMWs were still under warranty I would use oem fluids/filters.

 

I used a MANN when I changed the microcabin filter, and a MAHLE when I did the air filter...I guess Mobil1 0W40 is the only LL01 approved weight, and most folks use 5W30 except for M's. I would just follow the rules under warranty, but sometimes I wonder if it matters or not....

Dag I want to see if I can get some Napa Golds for the Maxima, did not know they were Wix. Baldwin is another good brand that I have never tried....I've always figured OEM was good enough, even when they were made in China...

 

In japan they almost always use Valvoline in nissans

 

I just get the mobil 1 syn from walmart for 24bux and a mobil 1 filter for 10 bux and change my oil every 5k. screw paying 70 bux for an oil change

 

People always consider brands for quality. Brand name is for marketing which affects price. When I buy oil, I always look for the cheapest one and the SAE Label is what matters to me.


I always look for an "SN" Grade oil. It's the highest grade introduced in 2010. And I look for the "Energy Conserving" text as well.