I'm due for replacing my brakes all the way around (the fronts were replaced last about 25k ago). I had the car in the shop for some other work and the guy there said the rear calipers needed to be replaced, not just the pads! I didn't notice anything unusual recently when I did suspension work. Why would the calipers themselves go bad (if they really have done so). I don't drive with my parking brake on ...

 

Rotors just wear. If it's an even wear, than that is just natural. Your rear rotors should last a long time, but they don't last forever. Most shops won't put pads on a car that has rotors that are worn past a certain point. They use a laser tool (usually) that measures the thickness of the metal on the rotor and there is kind of an industry standard as to what a safe thickness is. If you're worn past that point, than all the new pads in the world won't help your prob. and your new pads will just get chewed up.
I will warn you on the gen cost of this repair: $370 or so. Do NOT pay more than $200. If you were in Indy I would do it for you. Shops will try to screw you so if you know how do it yourself!!!
Sorry for being so winded...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by nismo1989
[B]

Rotors just wear. If it's an even wear, than that is just natural. Your rear rotors should last a long time, but they don't last forever. <snip>

Sorry if I wasn't clear. My rotors have plenty of meat left. It's the rear calipers that they are saying need replacement. The guys at Courtesy said this is sometimes a scam shops do, but sometimes the rotors have torn seals, frozen pistons, etc. This is sometimes from people driving with the parking brake on, or maybe using it to slow down without brake lights for the cops. Anyway, I've never worn out a caliper before, so this sounded strange to me. I haven't noticed any unusual sounds, pulling, anything from the driver's seat.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
[B]Ok, ok, I re-read your original post and I was way off (sorry). I don't know about calipers wearing out from normal use. It just doesn't seem likely to me and I never heard of it the years I worked for Midas (and believe me, if it was even remotly feasable to rip the customer off on a repair or part, they would do it!) If your calipers are bad I suggest replacing them all together with beefer aftermarket parts from Stillen. You probably won't spend any more money if you have the right shop do it and if you do it yourself you will save a bundle and performance will be much better. Sorry I can't help more but I have never had calipers go bad.

 

Aftermarket calipers are for the front only. The rear brakes don't contribute as much braking power as the front, so I don't see the need to find an aftermarket source. If it were the front calipers that went bad I could sell you mine. I went with the Wilwood brake upgrade. But as for the rear, I really can't help you there. Calipers are pretty easy to install, but they'll run you about $200 or so for an OEM Nissan. My friend's 2000 Accord V6 coupe had the same problem. Cost him towards $450 at the dealer to fix the problem. I later found it was a recall item and the dealer gave him is money back. This is the first time I've heard of this problem on the Maxima though.

 

There are no aftermarket calipers for the rear at all trust me ive searced hard. If you would replace them with aftermarekts anyway you'd have to replace the roter too. Anyway the rear brakes only accont for 30Percent of the brakeing and should not where out for about 100,000 miles. Ask them to pull it and show you the problem. I'm willing to bet if there is a prob then they caused it.

 

Have them explain more in detail. The only reason I know of that there should ever be caliper work done is if the piston seizes.

This can be a moderate to easy project for you though. If you have time in your schedule such as weekends off or a whole day off you can tackle the brakes your self. While you have the calipers off you can take the rotors off and take them to most auto parts stores who can balance your rotors for you. Also while you are there price quote what new rotors would cost, sometimes the price for the new ones are close to the cost of surfacing the rotors.

Of course you will need a 2 ton jack to get both rear wheels in the air or two jack stands and do one side at a time. Pads are easy to install. You will also need a brake piston tool sold at the auto parts store. This tool allows you to turn back the brake piston to put in new thick pads. While doing this you will be able to tell if your pistons are seized to. By learning to do brakes I have saved myself over the years over a thousand dollars.

Good Luck

 

I've done brakes before, but time is more of an issue for me right now. I have a friend who will turn the rotors for me in his shop for about $20. If it was summer I could get on the motorcycle and take the rotors to him, but it's raining to hard these days ...

 

Actually the rear for some reason on my car wear out quicker than the front. Reason is we don't have vent in the rear rotor. I have replaced all four brakes with cross drilled at 42k miles and the fronts were still half away while the rear were gone. I also noticed a little brake fluid on the rear caliper which led me to believe that I have a leak there. I noticed that the part where the cylinder comes out there was fluid on the rubber in the caliper. I think my rear caliper needs replacing also. Hope this help!