Raced, and check engine light comes on
Raced, and check engine light comes on
I have a 2K2 SE Auto and I was racing last night. Went full throttle a couple of times and noticed some smoke from the hood and it smelled like Auto Tran fluid burning, but went away later. But as I was driving, then as I was driving, the gas pedal didn't work, meaning i could not accelerate. The RPM just stayed at 1000 in drive and All I could do was about 5 MPH. Seems the computer cut off the gas pedal. Then the TCS off, Slip, check engine light is on. In park the idling rpm was 2000, normally it is 900. I pressed the gas, and nothing happens. Then I shut off the car again and let it sit for 5 minutes and start again, then all of the other lights go off, except for Check engine light, but this time A/T check light blinks for about 2 seconds and goes off. Now the car runs fine, except for the check engine light on. Does anyone know what went wrong? Is my transmission messed up or did the computer just go crazy. I will be taking my car into the dealer.
Re: Raced, and check engine light comes on
Originally posted by jsohn
I have a 2K2 SE Auto and I was racing last night. Went full throttle a couple of times and noticed some smoke from the hood and it smelled like Auto Tran fluid burning, but went away later. But as I was driving, then as I was driving, the gas pedal didn't work, meaning i could not accelerate. The RPM just stayed at 1000 in drive and All I could do was about 5 MPH. Seems the computer cut off the gas pedal. Then the TCS off, Slip, check engine light is on. In park the idling rpm was 2000, normally it is 900. I pressed the gas, and nothing happens. Then I shut off the car again and let it sit for 5 minutes and start again, then all of the other lights go off, except for Check engine light, but this time A/T check light blinks for about 2 seconds and goes off. Now the car runs fine, except for the check engine light on. Does anyone know what went wrong? Is my transmission messed up or did the computer just go crazy. I will be taking my car into the dealer.
I have a 2K2 SE Auto and I was racing last night. Went full throttle a couple of times and noticed some smoke from the hood and it smelled like Auto Tran fluid burning, but went away later. But as I was driving, then as I was driving, the gas pedal didn't work, meaning i could not accelerate. The RPM just stayed at 1000 in drive and All I could do was about 5 MPH. Seems the computer cut off the gas pedal. Then the TCS off, Slip, check engine light is on. In park the idling rpm was 2000, normally it is 900. I pressed the gas, and nothing happens. Then I shut off the car again and let it sit for 5 minutes and start again, then all of the other lights go off, except for Check engine light, but this time A/T check light blinks for about 2 seconds and goes off. Now the car runs fine, except for the check engine light on. Does anyone know what went wrong? Is my transmission messed up or did the computer just go crazy. I will be taking my car into the dealer.
. If your car goes into limp mode again all you need to do is pull off the road, shut the car off, remove the key from the ignition and then start the car back up. If you do that the limp mode will go away.Now for the smell, it has nothing to do with a lose belt or anything like that. On new car's they often make weird smells when pushed, most likely you burned a little bit of your tranny fluid and thats what caused the odor and smoke.
I found that the only way to get the check engine light off after it has gone into limp mode is to park the car for 24 hours, it worked for me.
Re: Re: Raced, and check engine light comes on
Originally posted by emax95
Congrats, you put your car in limp mode{AKA gimp mode}. On my 6spd max, if I hit the rev limeter it will go into limp mode. My top speed in limp mode was 21MPH going down hill
. If your car goes into limp mode again all you need to do is pull off the road, shut the car off, remove the key from the ignition and then start the car back up. If you do that the limp mode will go away.
Now for the smell, it has nothing to do with a lose belt or anything like that. On new car's they often make weird smells when pushed, most likely you burned a little bit of your tranny fluid and thats what caused the odor and smoke.
I found that the only way to get the check engine light off after it has gone into limp mode is to park the car for 24 hours, it worked for me.
Congrats, you put your car in limp mode{AKA gimp mode}. On my 6spd max, if I hit the rev limeter it will go into limp mode. My top speed in limp mode was 21MPH going down hill
. If your car goes into limp mode again all you need to do is pull off the road, shut the car off, remove the key from the ignition and then start the car back up. If you do that the limp mode will go away.Now for the smell, it has nothing to do with a lose belt or anything like that. On new car's they often make weird smells when pushed, most likely you burned a little bit of your tranny fluid and thats what caused the odor and smoke.
I found that the only way to get the check engine light off after it has gone into limp mode is to park the car for 24 hours, it worked for me.
Thanks Emax95 for the info. But when I first pulled over and shut the engine off, it was still in this limp mode. After about 10 minutes it went away. But why did the check A/T light flash? Was there any damage done, or should I not worry?
i doubt one beat down could have hurt your car, maxima's are made to be some what bullitproof. my throttle cable got stuck at WOT on a screw for the upper portion of my PR CAI, it was revving at redline for about 2 minutes because we couldn't figure out what was wrong until we got the car to a safe spot.
Mr friend wanted to drive the car, so i let him, but I think he was going full throttle in number 3 position of the automatic. Sometimes if one is not used to the 2k2 auto shifter because of the way stick comes down. Maybe thats why the car did this.
Originally posted by jsohn
Thanks Emax95 for the info. But when I first pulled over and shut the engine off, it was still in this limp mode. After about 10 minutes it went away. But why did the check A/T light flash? Was there any damage done, or should I not worry?
Thanks Emax95 for the info. But when I first pulled over and shut the engine off, it was still in this limp mode. After about 10 minutes it went away. But why did the check A/T light flash? Was there any damage done, or should I not worry?
As for your A/T light flashing, I do not know what the sensor looks for when it set's off the light for your A/T. Most likely it flashes when it sences a over heating condtion, the only other way it should blink is if your low on fluid.
1max2nv, that is not true, my car has gone into limp mode on two seperate occasions, both times it happened becasue I hit my rev limeter. 2002 max's are more advanced electronicaly then older max's, it is just a protection system that kicks in when the car senses a possible danger. This happens to prevent damage, it does not mean damage has allready been done.
Originally posted by emax95
Did you remove the key from the ignition on your first re-start attemp?
As for your A/T light flashing, I do not know what the sensor looks for when it set's off the light for your A/T. Most likely it flashes when it sences a over heating condtion, the only other way it should blink is if your low on fluid.
1max2nv, that is not true, my car has gone into limp mode on two seperate occasions, both times it happened becasue I hit my rev limeter. 2002 max's are more advanced electronicaly then older max's, it is just a protection system that kicks in when the car senses a possible danger. This happens to prevent damage, it does not mean damage has allready been done.
Did you remove the key from the ignition on your first re-start attemp?
As for your A/T light flashing, I do not know what the sensor looks for when it set's off the light for your A/T. Most likely it flashes when it sences a over heating condtion, the only other way it should blink is if your low on fluid.
1max2nv, that is not true, my car has gone into limp mode on two seperate occasions, both times it happened becasue I hit my rev limeter. 2002 max's are more advanced electronicaly then older max's, it is just a protection system that kicks in when the car senses a possible danger. This happens to prevent damage, it does not mean damage has allready been done.
Originally posted by maxed
Strange - I've bumped the rev limiter a couple times now in my 02 6spd with no ill effects other than looking like a dork just learning to drive a stick
Strange - I've bumped the rev limiter a couple times now in my 02 6spd with no ill effects other than looking like a dork just learning to drive a stick
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Re: Raced, and check engine light comes on
Man already broke a new max!! 
Sounds to me the VQ35DE isn't as strong as the 3.0....alot of people are having issues.

Sounds to me the VQ35DE isn't as strong as the 3.0....alot of people are having issues.
Originally posted by jsohn
I have a 2K2 SE Auto and I was racing last night. Went full throttle a couple of times and noticed some smoke from the hood and it smelled like Auto Tran fluid burning, but went away later. But as I was driving, then as I was driving, the gas pedal didn't work, meaning i could not accelerate. The RPM just stayed at 1000 in drive and All I could do was about 5 MPH. Seems the computer cut off the gas pedal. Then the TCS off, Slip, check engine light is on. In park the idling rpm was 2000, normally it is 900. I pressed the gas, and nothing happens. Then I shut off the car again and let it sit for 5 minutes and start again, then all of the other lights go off, except for Check engine light, but this time A/T check light blinks for about 2 seconds and goes off. Now the car runs fine, except for the check engine light on. Does anyone know what went wrong? Is my transmission messed up or did the computer just go crazy. I will be taking my car into the dealer.
I have a 2K2 SE Auto and I was racing last night. Went full throttle a couple of times and noticed some smoke from the hood and it smelled like Auto Tran fluid burning, but went away later. But as I was driving, then as I was driving, the gas pedal didn't work, meaning i could not accelerate. The RPM just stayed at 1000 in drive and All I could do was about 5 MPH. Seems the computer cut off the gas pedal. Then the TCS off, Slip, check engine light is on. In park the idling rpm was 2000, normally it is 900. I pressed the gas, and nothing happens. Then I shut off the car again and let it sit for 5 minutes and start again, then all of the other lights go off, except for Check engine light, but this time A/T check light blinks for about 2 seconds and goes off. Now the car runs fine, except for the check engine light on. Does anyone know what went wrong? Is my transmission messed up or did the computer just go crazy. I will be taking my car into the dealer.
Re: Re: Raced, and check engine light comes on
Originally posted by RussMaxManiac
Man already broke a new max!!
Sounds to me the VQ35DE isn't as strong as the 3.0....alot of people are having issues.
Man already broke a new max!!

Sounds to me the VQ35DE isn't as strong as the 3.0....alot of people are having issues.
I don't think it was the engine, his friend was racing it in 3rd gear and the a/t probably over heated or the ECU has a safety check to "discourage" that kind of behavior.
What other issues have been popping up? (i.e. with the VQ35DE)
Re: Re: Re: Raced, and check engine light comes on
Originally posted by maxed
Hey Russ are you jealous
I don't think it was the engine, his friend was racing it in 3rd gear and the a/t probably over heated or the ECU has a safety check to "discourage" that kind of behavior.
What other issues have been popping up? (i.e. with the VQ35DE)
Hey Russ are you jealous
I don't think it was the engine, his friend was racing it in 3rd gear and the a/t probably over heated or the ECU has a safety check to "discourage" that kind of behavior.
What other issues have been popping up? (i.e. with the VQ35DE)
Originally posted by dmbmaxima88
i think i've bumped mine too. emax must have bumped his good or something.
i think i've bumped mine too. emax must have bumped his good or something.
. Maybe you have to bounce of of the rev limeter more then once for the car to go into gimp mode?Russ
, that's not true and you know it, why did you say that? I have not heard of a single mechanical problem in any 3.5 VQ. Prove me wrong and show me a mechanical issue and I will eat my words.
Originally posted by emax95
Both times I hit the rev limeter I was racing and trying to do a quick 2-3 shift, when I went to shift to 3rd{too notchy} it did not go in and at the same moment I was rejected from going to 3rd I masshed the gas instictively to accelerate, all I got was some good red line action though
. Maybe you have to bounce of of the rev limeter more then once for the car to go into gimp mode?
Both times I hit the rev limeter I was racing and trying to do a quick 2-3 shift, when I went to shift to 3rd{too notchy} it did not go in and at the same moment I was rejected from going to 3rd I masshed the gas instictively to accelerate, all I got was some good red line action though
. Maybe you have to bounce of of the rev limeter more then once for the car to go into gimp mode?Thread
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