what do you guys think of this idea...

How about hijacking the "swirl control" system to actuate the VI intake?

The swirl control is a vacuum actuated valve that opens after 3200 rpm. It's added for better fuel burn but opens later for better air flow. Non-CA models don't have this so it's always open. The CA model is normally closed but opens after 3200rpm. If you could make the control logic think it's 5000rpm or just hijack the control solenoid. Basically, your CA model would be modified to work like a non-CA model (as far as the swirl is concerned), but the parts are now used to drive the VI.

For you non-ca models, you can order these CA parts and mount them. Here's a list of the swirl parts added to CA models (notice the similarity with the parts people have been posting about):

- one-way check valve
connected to a
- vacuum tank
connected to a
- valve control solenoid
connected to a
- vacuum check switch
connected to a
- vacuum driven valve actuator (which opens/closes the swirl valve)

Best of all, it all looks to be located in and around the right place...

If you guys think this might work, I'll definitely order this kit...

thanks,
rob

ps. I already tried disabling the swirl control and the car runs fine so here are some potential parts to re-train...

ps.ps. Here's a RPM activated switch from MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/1rpmacc.htm#anchor63270

 

3200 rpm is too early to actuate the VI manifold. You'd end up with a power loss between 3200 and 5000 rpm over the stock manifold...not good.

The simplest solution is what Mardigras did...the aftermarket rpm switch. The one he uses is cheaper and better than the MSD one (no rpm plug-in modules required). Here's a link: http://harlan.sketchy.net/store/store.html

I would like to see an ECU layout for the middle east Maxima. I still have a hunch that one of those many unused connectors under the hood of US Maximas is for the rpm signal, there just is no documentation in the service manual. There's one connector in particular that is located suspiciously close to where the VI intake actuator valve would be located.

 

I was able to locate the VI in Japan for about 320 plus shipping. Just thought I would keep everybody posted on that. I've order it and should be in within 2-3 weeks. Once it comes in I will start taking orders or give it over to someone esle to do it. But, the cost is about 100 for shipping because the part weighs about 8KG. Your looking at a cost of 420-450 probably. Just thought I would keep everyone that was interested posted on what has been going on.

-John

 

This include all the parts you listed + the import taxes?

 

Yep this is including all the taxes. Plus the place I'm going through actually charges 12% for finding the piece...no just if I didn't have to pay that it would be like 290 + shipping. That would be nice. =)

 

Interesting.
My supplier said it weighs 20kg.

When I get the part I will weigh it myself. Then Maybe I can lower my price by shipping 5 (40kg) at $220.

That would bring my price per part down to $470 or so shipped to your door.

Looks like we'll just have to see.

IanS

 

Is there any news to update

 

Check out the two group deal threads. THey'll be Stateside very soon!!!

 

Mine should be shipped today.

One for me, one for Speedtrip.

It should be here early next week. Then install will take place next weekend, and Dynos shortly after.

IanS

 

i hope you get some good results man. we need more mods!

 

Ordered my VVI from Japan the one problems is the bolts to hold on the intake cover are on back order so I will be getting it in about 4 weeks...So beginning of May so by that time I'm sure the other guys will have already got theirs installed and dyno'd. But, for people intersted it cost me 485 bucks for everything, shipped to my door. I have a few people interested. I'm talking to the guy to see if maybe he could cut us a better deal with a bigger order. But, it will be a little longer wait but, it is also a little cheaper. Just thought I would keep everyone posted.

-John

 

what does your car run in the 1/4mi with your current setup? keep us posted on that intake manifold!

 

I wish I knew...we don't have a quarter mile track here in Albuquerque. We used to but they closed it down. But, my inlaws live in Arizona...and will be visiting soon so should be running the quarter mile when I go visit. But, off of everybody elses sig...I figure I'm running like low 14's maybe even high 13's...but at this altitude I'm guessing mid 14's. But I think that this mod should easily put me into the 13's for a NA car.

-John

 

You'll be lucky to run low 15s at those altitudes, even with the intake manifold. Just because others run mid to low 14s in their Maximas doesn't mean you'll be able to. I thought I was an excellent driver until I hit the track for the 1st time in my car. I ran a 15.6@90mph...consistently. I took me 40 passes and 1.5 years to get 14.6s.

Dave

 

But what mods do you have on your car??? Once I get this mod I will have every preformance mod except a STS that you can get keeping the Maxima NA...at least that I can think of. Of course there are thing for suspension I could still get. But, with other cars I've raced and beaten here in Albuquerque (and I toast a lot of guys). They insist I'm a low 14 to mid 14 car cause I beat them and there time slips are in the upper 14's. I don't think it is unreasonable to think I'll be in the 13's, possibly at this altitude, but we'll see. I just can't wait to get a dyno done, so I can know how much the car is actually putting out to the wheels.

 

Not even corrected!

 

So, it is probably wishful thinking to think I would get into the 13's at this altitude , but it doesn't really matter because there isn't a track here where I could run to find out. Maybe I could a G-tech but I understand that those run fast and aren't to accurate, but I think high 13's aren't out of reach for a NA 4th Gen with this mod combined with all the other mods.

 

Fact is, this mod will make a 4th gen more powerful but it's still NA, so there' only so much air you can push in under normal atmospheric pressure. The VI helps the Max handle the in-coming air better, but it's no NOS, turbo or SC. Boost really changes things. Even with all mods and the VI, I wouldn't expect the crank hp to go as high as 250. 230hp, maximum in the NA 4th gen maxima, if we're lucky, excuse the pun

DW

 

I beg to differ...I mean the stats at the crank for the overseas maxima with the VI was like 222HP...in England the same car has a 193.3HP at the wheels. I mean you add that with all the other mods I think you should easily hit 250HP at the crank I'm thinking around 250-270HP at the crank. But then again...I'm just doing the math of what company's say the part adds. And, I know that those HP gains aren't always accurate That is why we just have to wait for a dyno. I think with all the mods, we should have more HP than the 2k2 Maxima. But this is just a guestimate. Won't know til we put it on the machine

 

I think you're both a little off

Seriously, I think 240 HP for a NA 4th gen is about the most you can do with the current mods + VI manifold. A VI'd 4th gen motor is basically a 5th gen motor. 240 is approximately how much the most powerful NA 5th gens put down...205ish at the wheels, which equates to roughly 240 at the crank.

It's all just speculation, though.

 

So...we agree to disagree...I like it. But like you said it is all speculation. We'll just have to wait and see.

 

True, and I speculate further . . . the 5th gen has a true dual mode variable intake manifold. This 4th gen VI is a compromise design. Better than what the US has, but not quite the 5th gen. That being said, the 4th gen with VI would probably make less hp as a result of the compromise design, as compared to the 5th gen. So, 230 hp

Actually, come to think of it, the 4th gen supposedly has the best (or hottest) cam profile of all the VQ generations. Hmm, this will be very interesting . . .

DW

 

all i can say is...if the variable manifold really does add at least 20hp to the crank the possibility of running 13s on my setup on my local track is very likely. i hope someone runs solid 13s with that manifold. it would make our cars look better!

 

Everyone thinks they're "a good driver" before they race at the track. I know of no one who can honestly say they did good their first few times down the track. Beating low 14-second and 13-second cars on the street is pretty much meaningless. The difference between a car running a 14.2 and one running a 15.2 is about 4 car lengths (assuming the crs got off the line at the same time). On the street, there are no timing devices. Getting a .5 second head start (very hard to see with the eye) in a 15.0-second car vs a 14.0-second car is huge. By 90mph, I doubt the 14-second car could even close the gap (.5 seconds at the start = about .7-.8 at the end).

There IS a track in Albuquerque. One of the quickest US-spec WRXs runs there. Albuquerque is at nearly 5000' above sea level, maybe higher. You'd be lucky to get upper out there. For every 1000', you're looking at over .15 seconds added to your ET, maybe worse.

When I ran my consistent 15.6s, I had a Y-pipe, intake, and muffler. With those mods, I was able to get down to 14.9@94mph. Last winter I added a UDP and B-pipe and removed the HKS muffler in favor of stock. I know my B-pipe and UDP didn't drop my ET 1-second and add 6+mph to my trapspeeds. It took a lot of practice. I had drag raced my 94 Z28 about 50 times prior to running my Maxima at the track (ie I had track experience).

13s are entirely possible with a 2.0 60', all the boltons including the variable intake manifold, a good track, and some good driving. Even my nearly 98mph trap speed is good for honest 13s if I could find the traction. The problem with FWD is the ability to get off the line hard. The laws of physics play against the car.


Dave

 

I understand so until I run at the track I shouldn't talk Quarter mile speeds or times. Do you know what the track is called because they closed the one that everyone went to. But, if they reopened it I haven't heard, but then again I've been out of the loop for a while haven't been in the racing scene for a while. I would love to find a track that I could run at but in the mean time just how I do on the street and my dyno run when I get the VI will have to do until I get some track time, or find a track for that matter

 

the very first time i ever ran my car i had a full interior, and stock tire pressures. my time was 15.1 at 92something mph. the second time i ran i was able to post a 14.8 time. i was totally surprised. i was able to hit 14.6 on the same setup (with just the intake as an engine mod). after my ypipe, my times dropped to 14.4s on average with the 14.32 as my best. i can miss 3rd gear sometimes and still run 14.7. my best 60' time is only 2.1 so that can improve. i'm going to have to work on it hard though. it seems like a barrier to me.

 

Good News!

My parts are on the way. I should have them installed by next weekend (have to work this weekend, and don't have the MAp/Baro switch yet anyway.)

IanS

 

Can't wait till you get it on. Good luck.

-John

 

So, most likely (depending on how many horses the mod gives) if you get this mod you should be able to hit really low 14's if not like a 13.9 run. I think an important mod that would help a lot in your time is a new clutch kit from ACT and that would cut your quarter mile time. It is nice how it just catches and goes. But, those are great times.

-John

 

how much heavier is the ACT clutch pedal feel compared to stock? how is it in stop and go traffic? would anyone recommend clutchmasters or centerforce?

 

ACT is slightly heavier. But, it is great for stop and go traffic. I've heard of several people that really like the clutch masters but it cost like almost 2X more than the ACT. I've heard of a lot of people having trouble with centerforce...but, I've never used it myself. I think the clutch would shave a few seconds of your time. It is nice to just grip all the power and go.

 

I just got an ACT clutch as well with my replaced tranny. 1st 4 times I drove off the lot, my car stalled! Pedal effort is the same as before,BUT, the point from "just starting to engage" to "fully engaged" is much much smaller. Took me 500 miles to get used to it. Now I'm comfortable with it as I was with te stock clutch. And, like Cranman said, it's much stronger. When you let go of the clutch, it grabs the engine like never before When driving hard, the stock clutch felt like it was struggling to deal with the VQs torque.

DW

 

I went to the Nissan Dealership to buy the assorted bolts for the Manifold today (for the cover, I will re-use the ones on my existing manifold for everything else)

On my diagram, it shows the part # as 08050-6205A for the bolts.
www.cyberhub.net/intake/diagram.jpg

The Nissan Parts Department said that wasn't a valid part number.

Anyone know what the part number for those bolts really are?

Thanks,
IanS

 

it probably is a valid part number but it could be because it is a middle east part number that it will not show up in the system as a valid part number. i used that parts list to have parts dept look up all of the parts that original part s list with all the parts need and nothing came up.

you might have to find the bolts that fit (m10, 50 pitch) etc. etc. so you can match up the bolts from a auto parts store.

 

Interestingly, the screws for the butterflies (14040A-32U00, I think) DID exist in the US Databases. But not one other "38U00" Part in the lsit did.

Strange. YOu'd think at least the main gasket would.

IanS

 

Yeah, it is strange...I couldn't figure it out either. Like out of the whole part list I had I think only 3 showed up in the database. It must be used for a car here in the states is my guess.

 

Good news. Parts are here and they are 100% correct.

Still need to get some bolts tomorrow and some hose to make the vacuum system work.

I'll be installing probably tomorrow afternoon and Dynoing Saturday if I can get the Dyno time.

IanS

 

Good luck hope the install goes smooth...I'm sure you won't have any problems. I can't wait to see the dyno numbers because I'm sure that they will be great numbers. Once I get mine in I'll be running a dyno also just to see how much my car is actually putting out. Can't wait to see the charts. =)

 

Did you do a before dyno Ian? Also, will you be the first N/A Maxima to get the VI on? So what was the conclusion of Mardigra's dyno? About 20 HP? That's great. What's funny in all this is although Roadbeast is a rat-b@stard S.O.B., I'm glad we learned about the M.E./V.I. from him.

 

That's great. Hopefully, Finality and Mr Cranman will have the real deal as well. Nice job Ian...