ICONOCLAST

I just started having problems since my ecu was switched over to the Jim Wolf Performance ECU. I have contacted them but thought I would also ask here.

What is happening is occasionally more often then not when accelerating form a dead stop at idle or rolling and I push the accelerator the car will repsond properly for the first 500-1000rpms after idle or initiating movement from rolling, but afterwards it will backfire and one of two thing will occurr.

1) The car will backfire minorly then go and maybe backfire minorly again a split second later

2) The car will backfire and then i will still have my foot on the accelerator but the thorttle will be open but the car is not accelerating so I have to let it go back to idle and then and only then will it **MAYBE** decide to accelerate or it will decide to backfire again kinda like a hickup and a burp at the same time (make sense)

3) the other option is that it may do a small backfire (or hickaburp) and then do a major bakcfire/ hickaburp and I'll have to let the Tac drop to idle and it may not stay at idle but will drop below idle to somewhere around 200rpms and then jump back to idle and then the car will respond for a little while or perhaps a long time if it feels like it.

PLEASE help!

Anyone had this happen to them email me back at
DJTHRILLA2@aol.com
ICONOCLAST_PROD@hotmail.com
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Thanks for the help
Jared Seymour

tifosiv122

iTrader: (2)

I can't help you, but I wouldn't use the Nitrous if your backfiring!

Erik

ICONOCLAST

I know! I don't have nitrous on the car now, just the dual mode setup with a switch turned to normal mode for the ecu!

Jared

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

considering the car ran fine before the ECU..
are you 100% sure your switch is not in NOS mode (service engine light is not on)?
things to check...
-double check your timing. make sure you didn't advance it in the past and left it there.
-make sure you're running premium gas
-make sure all injectors are firing properly
-check to see if spark plugs are ok..no burnt electrode and etc.
-check to make sure your fuel pump is delivering the right fuel psi..(also check regulator)
-lastly make sure you have the right ECU for a VE

-almost forgot..check your ign coils.

good luck...those are just a few things to check to get you started.

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

thanks Dan

ICONOCLAST

I know the Fuel pump is fine, it is new, and the right psi, I have had a high speed Nissan/Infiniti test done, it is the right ECU as the numbers checked out fine when JWT checked them for my car a Fed Spec VE 5-speed 92 model.

As for fuel injectors I will check, but the O2 was running 20 Degrees hotter with the JWT ecu.

As for the ECU I have it switched to norm mode I know about that and have changed the TPS sensor, PCV valve, need to change the o2, MAF, and Crank Angler Sensor, also need to change to a new coil, and getting new motor mounts when I get a Aluminum flywheel and ACT stage 3 clutch setup by the end of the month from Stillen.

Thanks for the ideas though

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

the O2 runs hotter because the engine runs hotter..the timing is advanced w/ the ECU.

if you need to change those parts then why not change them and then see if you get the same problems.

ICONOCLAST

It is not the O2 in fact it was the MAF sensor! I get to replace that and will also be doing either my motor mounts or ACT stage 3 clutch kit with Stillen Aluminum flywheel (12lbs). by the end of the month.

Situation under control now and thanks for the help I talked to JWT today for hours and yesterday and ended up just taking the top off the MAF and resoldering the connections to the MAF jack where it plugs up and it is a lil better but still getting replaced as it still messes up!

Jared