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Update on Bosch plugs - READ

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Old 03-17-2002 | 10:11 PM
  #41  
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Originally posted by BobK


Adidas_Boy thanks for the heads up. I'll pull that plug and check again. Do you know if the Haynes manual shows how to replace these seals?
I don't have the Haynes manual so I couldn't check that, but the Chilton's manual doesn't. . . There isn't really even mention of them. I know there really is a part for the spark plug well seal, it is like $1.00 each from the dealer but most don't have it in stock and they have to be ordered or they only have 1 or 2 in stock, and I was told to change it by my relative who I trust and works as a Nissan Service Advisor. Hopefully you won't have to have to change them out, but if there is still oil it may be a necessity.
Old 03-18-2002 | 06:18 AM
  #42  
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This seems to be a more important issue with the added posts over the last week. I just ordered my tuneup kit from Courtesy and when it gets a little warm out, I'll be changing the plugs. I will be posting pics of all six plugs (Bosch +4's) to share my findings.
Old 03-18-2002 | 06:32 AM
  #43  
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Deez, don't forget to let the engine cool a bit before changing.......last time I changed mine was mid-summer ... trying to get it cool...oh yeah, that was sweaty fun.
Old 03-18-2002 | 06:34 AM
  #44  
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Originally posted by deezo
I will be posting pics of all six plugs (Bosch +4's) to share my findings.
I should have taken pics of the plugs I pulled from the I30 last week.
Old 03-18-2002 | 06:38 AM
  #45  
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Originally posted by Lime
Deez, don't forget to let the engine cool a bit before changing.......last time I changed mine was mid-summer ... trying to get it cool...oh yeah, that was sweaty fun.
Hehe, I've don't this a million times before guh.
Old 08-18-2002 | 08:32 AM
  #46  
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how about black dust all over the electrodes and tips
autolite 3923 one step colder.(hey,they were free!)
i looked at the older ngk's and they were a nice tan color.
i may be putting them back in this afternoon just to see if they turn black.
Old 08-18-2002 | 10:35 AM
  #47  
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Originally posted by BobK
What seals needed replaced? I'm assuming the valve seals. I just replaced mine with "normal" NKG's, not platinium (would have had to special order). Took it for a test drive, and it run's much better. Got home and reset the ECU. I'll check it again in a few days to see if the cylinder is still misfiring. I just wonder if the electrodes broke off or melted.

After doing searches on the new about missing electrodes, the article I found said that is is sometimes caused by a loose plug. The engine sucks air around the plug causing a lean condition and a very hot cylinder. When I pulled the plug it was only hand tight. When I put them in I turned them 1/2 turn past hand tight. With my new plugs I used a torque wrench and tightened them to 14ft/lbs. Which was approx. 1 full turn past hand tight. I highly recommend using a torque wrench now as hand tight is highly subjective.
YOu need to replace gasgets for your manifold. I replaced my NGK plats a month ago and found them covered in oil. Oil is leaking into there from the manifold. I replaced the manifolds and no more oil. If someone already answered this cause I was too lazy to read the next page... oops.
Old 08-18-2002 | 01:01 PM
  #48  
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Originally posted by Dave B

There's a saying that your shouldn't run German plugs in a Japanese motor. This seems to be true with the VQ. Some cars don't care what plugs you run, but the VQ obviously does.



Dave
Since this thread has been revived:

When I changed the plugs in my Dad's '98 528i, the owner's manual called for NGK Platinums. Read into that what you will.
Old 08-18-2002 | 02:04 PM
  #49  
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dood.. your sig is a full page
Originally posted by darksands


YOu need to replace gasgets for your manifold. I replaced my NGK plats a month ago and found them covered in oil. Oil is leaking into there from the manifold. I replaced the manifolds and no more oil. If someone already answered this cause I was too lazy to read the next page... oops.
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