Mobil 1 synthetic
04-06-2002, 12:56 PM
#1
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Mobil 1 synthetic
OKay guys, I changed my PCV valve last night, and also my oil. The oil (Mobil 1 synthetic, 5w 30) had been in the car probably 4000 miles; when I last filled it up, it was probably February.
The oil was THIN, very thin. I was NOT impressed. I was using my friend's shop bay after hours (mmm, warm), and they recommended Royal Purple instead. Okay, I said, I'll give it a shot. Same weight, 5w 30. When I change it again, I'll see if it's any better.
FYI, the PCVv was a ... not fun thing to do.
The oil was THIN, very thin. I was NOT impressed. I was using my friend's shop bay after hours (mmm, warm), and they recommended Royal Purple instead. Okay, I said, I'll give it a shot. Same weight, 5w 30. When I change it again, I'll see if it's any better.
FYI, the PCVv was a ... not fun thing to do.
04-06-2002, 03:57 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
I've been using Mobil 1 religiously ever since my Maxima turned over 45,000 miles. Today, almost 6 years later, it has over 191,000 miles on it, and it is still running extremely strong. Obviously, I've had no problems with it... 
04-06-2002, 07:30 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 412
Praise Mobil 1 Synthetic or be sent to da Devil!
haha
I personally prefer Mobil 1 synthetic over anything.
hahaI personally prefer Mobil 1 synthetic over anything.
04-06-2002, 07:42 PM
#6
ever since I switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 back in august at 70,000 miles....I've been consuming about a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Before august I used only Castrol GTX 5w-30 and never had any noticable oil consumption...I'm going to try and move up to 10w-30 Mobil 1 and see how that does....if that does't work I might just be switching back to dino oil.....
04-07-2002, 06:19 AM
#7
Change mobile 1 formula?
I just heard that mobile 1 reformulated their oil and now its not as good as it was. Any truth to this? Whats the name of the new oil. I went to my local car supply store yesterday and notice two kinds of mobile one. Tri-Synthetic the one i usually get and SuperSyn. Is Super-Syn the new, cheaper one?
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
ever since I switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 back in august at 70,000 miles....I've been consuming about a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Before august I used only Castrol GTX 5w-30 and never had any noticable oil consumption...I'm going to try and move up to 10w-30 Mobil 1 and see how that does....if that does't work I might just be switching back to dino oil.....
ever since I switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 back in august at 70,000 miles....I've been consuming about a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Before august I used only Castrol GTX 5w-30 and never had any noticable oil consumption...I'm going to try and move up to 10w-30 Mobil 1 and see how that does....if that does't work I might just be switching back to dino oil.....
04-07-2002, 07:08 AM
#8
Re: Change mobile 1 formula?
Originally posted by Larcenist
I just heard that mobile 1 reformulated their oil and now its not as good as it was. Any truth to this? Whats the name of the new oil. I went to my local car supply store yesterday and notice two kinds of mobile one. Tri-Synthetic the one i usually get and SuperSyn. Is Super-Syn the new, cheaper one?
I just heard that mobile 1 reformulated their oil and now its not as good as it was. Any truth to this? Whats the name of the new oil. I went to my local car supply store yesterday and notice two kinds of mobile one. Tri-Synthetic the one i usually get and SuperSyn. Is Super-Syn the new, cheaper one?
Amsoil uses a polyalphaolefin base stock which is created by combining ethylene molecules into hydrocarbon chains of uniform size and shape.
Redline is a polyolester base synthesized from a chemical reaction between an alcohol and an acid.
Castrol Syntec is made from a hydroisomerized and hydrocracked PETROLEUM DISTALLATE. Basically, they create a synthetic from a non-synthetic.
Now, for Mobil 1 it's a little more involved. They use three different main compounds, hence the tri-synthetic label. Similar to Amsoil, one component is a polyalphaolefin, the second is a synthetic ester and the third is an alkylated aromatic fluid. It's the third compound that is interesting. An aromatic is a component of petroleum oil, and in fact is one of the compounds in dino oil that promotes seal swelling (the other synthetics use additives for this same issue to remain more pure). Notice I said PETROLEUM oil. This is where the new formulation comes in. Mobil claims this is in there oil in order to make it fully compatible with conventional oils, yet Amsoil and Redline manage to do this in other ways, which actually cost more money, but in my opinion, produce a better oil.
True synthetic oils have far fewer impurities in them, allowing them to offer superior protection. True, Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec is still better than a conventional oil, and in fact I have used Mobil in the past with excellent results, but Amsoil and Redline take things to the next level. Now that I know a little more about oils, ror the small price difference involved, I want the best in my engine because I work it VERY hard and want it to last.
04-07-2002, 08:53 AM
#9
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I was going to try either AMSOIL or Royal Purple next, and my friend's shop uses RP, so I'll try AMSOIL next. A LOT of hardcore racing types use RP as well. I am no longer fond of Mobil1 though, sorry. Take a look at it as it comes out of your car, and you'll see why. Not enough protection.
If you drive hard, protect the engine.
If you drive hard, protect the engine.
04-07-2002, 09:36 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
I'm not sure why one would look at oil draining out of their car and conclude it was time to switch brands. Are you saying Mobil 1 looks thin when it drains out? Thick, like heavy syrup? What? In any case, I'm not so sure the apparent viscosity of used oil is all-important.
Did you ask the mechanic to cut open your old filter to check for any pieces of metal stuck in the filter media? Do you have to refill the oil between oil changes? Is your car smoking? Does a tapping noise come out of your engine on start-up until it warms-up? Do you get poor gas mileage? These may be more important indicators of oil trouble...
But then, you don't need a good reason to switch brands, either. If you want to try another brand on a whim, of course that's OK, too! Good luck.
Did you ask the mechanic to cut open your old filter to check for any pieces of metal stuck in the filter media? Do you have to refill the oil between oil changes? Is your car smoking? Does a tapping noise come out of your engine on start-up until it warms-up? Do you get poor gas mileage? These may be more important indicators of oil trouble...
But then, you don't need a good reason to switch brands, either. If you want to try another brand on a whim, of course that's OK, too! Good luck.
04-07-2002, 10:25 AM
#11
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Re: Mobil 1 synthetic
Originally posted by Lime
OKay guys, I changed my PCV valve last night, and also my oil. The oil (Mobil 1 synthetic, 5w 30) had been in the car probably 4000 miles; when I last filled it up, it was probably February.
The oil was THIN, very thin. I was NOT impressed. I was using my friend's shop bay after hours (mmm, warm), and they recommended Royal Purple instead. Okay, I said, I'll give it a shot. Same weight, 5w 30. When I change it again, I'll see if it's any better.
FYI, the PCVv was a ... not fun thing to do.
OKay guys, I changed my PCV valve last night, and also my oil. The oil (Mobil 1 synthetic, 5w 30) had been in the car probably 4000 miles; when I last filled it up, it was probably February.
The oil was THIN, very thin. I was NOT impressed. I was using my friend's shop bay after hours (mmm, warm), and they recommended Royal Purple instead. Okay, I said, I'll give it a shot. Same weight, 5w 30. When I change it again, I'll see if it's any better.
FYI, the PCVv was a ... not fun thing to do.
Thin oil flows better and has better protection my friend. So just by looking at it you think, oh its thin it doesn't protect well? lol. It protects better than most oils. I can tell you Royal Purple has alot of water in it, and isn't that good of oil. Send your oil after draining to blackstone labs so they can test it and see.
04-07-2002, 10:27 AM
#12
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Originally posted by Lime
I was going to try either AMSOIL or Royal Purple next, and my friend's shop uses RP, so I'll try AMSOIL next. A LOT of hardcore racing types use RP as well. I am no longer fond of Mobil1 though, sorry. Take a look at it as it comes out of your car, and you'll see why. Not enough protection.
If you drive hard, protect the engine.
I was going to try either AMSOIL or Royal Purple next, and my friend's shop uses RP, so I'll try AMSOIL next. A LOT of hardcore racing types use RP as well. I am no longer fond of Mobil1 though, sorry. Take a look at it as it comes out of your car, and you'll see why. Not enough protection.
If you drive hard, protect the engine.
04-07-2002, 10:51 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 781
Yea, I've notice after my last oil change. I was using Amsoil Synthetic before and there were no clicking noise when I first start the car (valve stuff and the cam...) Now with mobil 1, I hear everytime I start the car as if there is something loose and making clanking sounds. But when it's warm, of course it goes away. So I'm beginning to think if Mobil 1 is not as good or should I say thick and sticks to spaces in between the cam and the things that it pushes up against to push the valves down... etc. I think I might go back to Amsoil.
04-07-2002, 11:29 AM
#14
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Posts: 4,154
LOL, you guys are cocky sumbishes; pretty pathetic. I do my oil change myself, for one, and I did not feel like cutting the oil filter open. However, the consistency of the oil coming out, and the color, was not satisfactory to me. Thin oil does NOT protect better, actually, unless it has the correct "ingredients," so you might want to check the additive differences. Royal Purple and Amsoil are not thick oils...I am using the same weight, and it's not that different in consistency. However, when it is in the car and when it comes out of the car, according to my friends at the shop and the customers of Royal Purple, it doesn't allow seal damage or knocking as much as most synthetics.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
04-07-2002, 11:54 AM
#15
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Lime
LOL, you guys are cocky sumbishes; pretty pathetic. I do my oil change myself, for one, and I did not feel like cutting the oil filter open. However, the consistency of the oil coming out, and the color, was not satisfactory to me. Thin oil does NOT protect better, actually, unless it has the correct "ingredients," so you might want to check the additive differences. Royal Purple and Amsoil are not thick oils...I am using the same weight, and it's not that different in consistency. However, when it is in the car and when it comes out of the car, according to my friends at the shop and the customers of Royal Purple, it doesn't allow seal damage or knocking as much as most synthetics.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
LOL, you guys are cocky sumbishes; pretty pathetic. I do my oil change myself, for one, and I did not feel like cutting the oil filter open. However, the consistency of the oil coming out, and the color, was not satisfactory to me. Thin oil does NOT protect better, actually, unless it has the correct "ingredients," so you might want to check the additive differences. Royal Purple and Amsoil are not thick oils...I am using the same weight, and it's not that different in consistency. However, when it is in the car and when it comes out of the car, according to my friends at the shop and the customers of Royal Purple, it doesn't allow seal damage or knocking as much as most synthetics.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
04-07-2002, 11:58 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 781
JUST CURIOUS, how thick do you want the oil? it's 5w-30, both feel the same to me, but I still use 5w-30. It just seems all the same to me.. but then I'm back using Mobil 1 now. And Amsoil is a bit more expensive. I also noticed my mileage has gone down after switching back to Mobil 1. But then I also just got my ECU reprogramed under the T.S.B. I don't know who you're calling rich, but I certainly am not. Support myself, no one buys me stuff. Pay for it all myself, that's why I do what I can myself.
04-07-2002, 12:07 PM
#17
listen...drama queen relax..
oil being thin has nothing to do with how well it protect. if that's the case then why use a 5w-30 weight? why not use 75w-90 gear oil? that'll go in and come out looking like glue. according to your theory that should protect the engine much better than the "water like" 5w-30..right? they do make a 0w-30 oil now...that's probably straight up water to you enh?
you are correct that there are more expensive oils out there that you want to use (amsoil/royal purple/redline)..but at the same time you mentioned that you're not rich...irony?
serious racers use amsoil/royal purple.etc etc..are you saying you're a serious racer in a 4th gen maxima? a serious racer puts massive cash into their engine and the tolerance is set very high in the parts. it's pretty safe to say you would want to run the most expensive oil you can get your hands on if you have 10K put/done to your engine...how much work does your engine have?
i guess everyone who uses a non syn oil will need a new car in 5-10 years because according to you dyno oil will just break down and put wear on the engine and eventually kill the engine.
it's a myth that mobil-1 or any other syn oil can damage seals. ALL synthetic oils will have a tendency to "leak" past a weak seal or it'll leak more past a already slow leaking seal. people see the new leak...they point to the oil damaging the seal.
i think bill and a few others would agree the "color" of the oil has nothing to do with how well it can protect under the engine.
it'a all about mainteance...change the oil and using a quality filter at the "correct" interval and you'll be fine.
oil being thin has nothing to do with how well it protect. if that's the case then why use a 5w-30 weight? why not use 75w-90 gear oil? that'll go in and come out looking like glue. according to your theory that should protect the engine much better than the "water like" 5w-30..right? they do make a 0w-30 oil now...that's probably straight up water to you enh?
you are correct that there are more expensive oils out there that you want to use (amsoil/royal purple/redline)..but at the same time you mentioned that you're not rich...irony?
serious racers use amsoil/royal purple.etc etc..are you saying you're a serious racer in a 4th gen maxima? a serious racer puts massive cash into their engine and the tolerance is set very high in the parts. it's pretty safe to say you would want to run the most expensive oil you can get your hands on if you have 10K put/done to your engine...how much work does your engine have?
i guess everyone who uses a non syn oil will need a new car in 5-10 years because according to you dyno oil will just break down and put wear on the engine and eventually kill the engine.
it's a myth that mobil-1 or any other syn oil can damage seals. ALL synthetic oils will have a tendency to "leak" past a weak seal or it'll leak more past a already slow leaking seal. people see the new leak...they point to the oil damaging the seal.
i think bill and a few others would agree the "color" of the oil has nothing to do with how well it can protect under the engine.
it'a all about mainteance...change the oil and using a quality filter at the "correct" interval and you'll be fine.
Originally posted by Lime
LOL, you guys are cocky sumbishes; pretty pathetic. I do my oil change myself, for one, and I did not feel like cutting the oil filter open. However, the consistency of the oil coming out, and the color, was not satisfactory to me. Thin oil does NOT protect better, actually, unless it has the correct "ingredients," so you might want to check the additive differences. Royal Purple and Amsoil are not thick oils...I am using the same weight, and it's not that different in consistency. However, when it is in the car and when it comes out of the car, according to my friends at the shop and the customers of Royal Purple, it doesn't allow seal damage or knocking as much as most synthetics.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
LOL, you guys are cocky sumbishes; pretty pathetic. I do my oil change myself, for one, and I did not feel like cutting the oil filter open. However, the consistency of the oil coming out, and the color, was not satisfactory to me. Thin oil does NOT protect better, actually, unless it has the correct "ingredients," so you might want to check the additive differences. Royal Purple and Amsoil are not thick oils...I am using the same weight, and it's not that different in consistency. However, when it is in the car and when it comes out of the car, according to my friends at the shop and the customers of Royal Purple, it doesn't allow seal damage or knocking as much as most synthetics.
I have seen some articles on oils that indicate over the long-term that Mobil1 can damage seals. I am not sure how "scientific" the research was on these instances, but whatever. I didn't like the look and consistency of the oil (between my fingers...yes, I can get dirty like a mechanic) that came out of my car after a SHORTER PERIOD than is recommended. I also have noticed less noise from the car at idle now.
BTW, the sparks, belts, PCVv have all been replaced in the last 6 months (PCVv that same night as the oil). The car has been running fine, if a little louder than expected at idle, and this was just regular maintenance. I felt that because I hadn't been driving many miles, that the oil had been in there long enough, and changed it.
I drive hard a lot of the time, and I want to protect the internals. I don't see why you should be rolling your pathetic little eys at this; oh my god, I like my car and want it to last because I'm not rich and can't afford a new one (don't live with mommy and daddy anymore, sorry kids, they don't buy me cars).
I have had serious racers (with non street-legal racecars, kids) suggest Royal Purple and AMSOIL oils, not Mobil1.
EDIT: I KNOW THAT SYNTHETICS ARE THIN.
04-07-2002, 12:31 PM
#19
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by DanNY
russ...take a deep breath..step away from the keyboard for a few minutes.
russ...take a deep breath..step away from the keyboard for a few minutes.
04-07-2002, 01:20 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
04-07-2002, 02:14 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
Lime, why the "cocky sumbishes" and "pretty pathetic" stuff? I am a self-confident and opinionated person, but I'm not so self-important to state my opinions as facts.
I thought we were discussing the relative merit of different oils. Why fire back with militant rhetoric? Perhaps some of these views challenged your thinking? (That's OK, isn't it?)
More than likely, the TRUTH is a composite of all the views we've considered thus far, and many more. But it's probably not worth much to continue researching. You can go on what you know now, I'm sure.
If you use Royal Purple, let me know if you see any difference in performance and so forth. Your honest opinion will be OK, but hard facts would be better, considering the hard line you took here today.
This post is written in friendship. If it weren't, I probably would have told you to throw maple syrup in there for all I care!
All we're doing is splitting hairs anyway...
I thought we were discussing the relative merit of different oils. Why fire back with militant rhetoric? Perhaps some of these views challenged your thinking? (That's OK, isn't it?)
More than likely, the TRUTH is a composite of all the views we've considered thus far, and many more. But it's probably not worth much to continue researching. You can go on what you know now, I'm sure.
If you use Royal Purple, let me know if you see any difference in performance and so forth. Your honest opinion will be OK, but hard facts would be better, considering the hard line you took here today.
This post is written in friendship. If it weren't, I probably would have told you to throw maple syrup in there for all I care!
All we're doing is splitting hairs anyway...
04-07-2002, 02:30 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,677
Sorry to go off-topic..but..
Could some one please give me more information about syntethic oil leaking or damaging seals?
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
Some more info regarding this would be appreciated.
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
Some more info regarding this would be appreciated.
04-07-2002, 02:39 PM
#23
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
Re: Sorry to go off-topic..but..
Originally posted by mAdD MAX
Could some one please give me more information about syntethic oil leaking or damaging seals?
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
Some more info regarding this would be appreciated.
Could some one please give me more information about syntethic oil leaking or damaging seals?
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
Some more info regarding this would be appreciated.
04-07-2002, 02:52 PM
#24
Originally posted by Lime
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
mechanics and racers also recommend mobil 1..are u saying they are wrong? they are not real mechanics?
when you pour a bottle of oil in your engine it's prob about (depends on where it's stored) 60-70 degrees. when the oil has been beated around for 4000 miles and warmed up..it's going to be thinner. heat your royal purple up to 200 degrees and see how thin it runs.
i'm not a expert..but your observation is not entirely true. define "unnaturally thin"? none of us are really oil experts..but many have sent their oil to a lab and they noted the results (bill, jeff, russ, many others)
i guess you can't take it when you're wrong enh?
04-07-2002, 03:11 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 699
Good news??
New product spec data for Mobil 1. I printed them out maybe two weeks ago. The current data shows the 0W-40 weight is now gone but the Pour Point for the 5W-30 is back to what it used to be before the formulation change (from -49 F to -65 F).
https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...f?OpenDocument
https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...f?OpenDocument
04-07-2002, 03:12 PM
#26
Re: Re: Sorry to go off-topic..but..
Originally posted by Bman
If it leaks, the seal is on its way out - the regular oil wouldn't seep through it, but the better flow of the synthetic lets it leak out. Either a)switch back to stop the leak, b)replace and clean up the seal, or c)live with it. He DID check if it was just loose right?
If it leaks, the seal is on its way out - the regular oil wouldn't seep through it, but the better flow of the synthetic lets it leak out. Either a)switch back to stop the leak, b)replace and clean up the seal, or c)live with it. He DID check if it was just loose right?
04-07-2002, 03:15 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,677
What is wrong with Castrol Syntec? Please explain in dumbed down words so I can understand.
Also I don't know if he checked to see if the seal was loose. I asked around and found out that there is no gasket between the block and the oilpan, only a seal on a 240SX. How much do you think it will cost for a mechanic to replace the seal?
Also I don't know if he checked to see if the seal was loose. I asked around and found out that there is no gasket between the block and the oilpan, only a seal on a 240SX. How much do you think it will cost for a mechanic to replace the seal?
04-07-2002, 03:18 PM
#28
Originally posted by Lime
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
I've seen lots of posts on other boards about Royal Purple, so it is a great synthetic oil. But I'd have to give the edge to Amsoil as THE best (particulary due to their formulation process).
04-07-2002, 03:31 PM
#29
Originally posted by mAdD MAX
What is wrong with Castrol Syntec? Please explain in dumbed down words so I can understand.
Also I don't know if he checked to see if the seal was loose. I asked around and found out that there is no gasket between the block and the oilpan, only a seal on a 240SX. How much do you think it will cost for a mechanic to replace the seal?
What is wrong with Castrol Syntec? Please explain in dumbed down words so I can understand.
Also I don't know if he checked to see if the seal was loose. I asked around and found out that there is no gasket between the block and the oilpan, only a seal on a 240SX. How much do you think it will cost for a mechanic to replace the seal?
Made by Bill: Castrol Syntec or Syntec Blend are the only oils here that appear to not hold up for very long intervals.
Made by Blackstone Labs:
Sample 1 Comments for 1997 Maxima Castrol Syntec Bld 10W/30 oil at 108,000 miles from Blackstone Labs:
KIRK: Wear and insolubles both read fairly high in this initial sample from your Nissan. The universal averages show typical wear from this type of engine after 5,500 miles on the oil. You ran this oil 7,100 miles, so that is probably the cause for most of the higher wear. Nothing is high enough to suspect a mechanical problem., but it is excessive. Insolubles were at the limits at .6% . The TBN was low at 2.0, showing very little active additive left in the oil. We don't suggest running the oil any longer due to wear.
Sample 2 Comments for 1997 Maxima Castrol Syntec Bld 10W/30 oil at 108,000 miles from Blackstone Labs:
KIRK: Your two samples, unit 1 and unit 2, were close enough in their final results that both oils could have come from the same oil drain. The same comments for your unit 1 are appropriate for this sample result. The wear metals highlighted and the insolubles were at limits so we suggest this 7,100 miles oil use interval may be too long for the condition your engine is in and the way you operate it. This was Castrol Syntec 10W/30 with no gas, moisture, or anti-freeze. The TBN was 1.5, low for a synthetic 10W/30.
The numerical data can be found if you download Bill's spreadsheet or it can also be viewed here: http://www.mdvsynthetics.com/analysis.htm
If the seal between the engine and oilpan is an RTV type sealant, it shouldn't be too labor intensive to repair it, I'm guessing less than $100. I'm not familiar with this engine or the seals we're talking about, so this is basically a wild *** guess and I may be way off.
04-07-2002, 03:41 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,677
Thank you very much for that information..from what I understand it means that it has a lot of miniscule engine parts in the oil? Ok..so I guess I should get Amsoil now? Can I just add Amsoil oil when there is still Castrol oil in the engine? Or will this mix and match screw the engine up?
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
04-07-2002, 03:47 PM
#31
Originally posted by mAdD MAX
Thank you very much for that information..from what I understand it means that it has a lot of miniscule engine parts in the oil? Ok..so I guess I should get Amsoil now? Can I just add Amsoil oil when there is still Castrol oil in the engine? Or will this mix and match screw the engine up?
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
Thank you very much for that information..from what I understand it means that it has a lot of miniscule engine parts in the oil? Ok..so I guess I should get Amsoil now? Can I just add Amsoil oil when there is still Castrol oil in the engine? Or will this mix and match screw the engine up?
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
04-07-2002, 04:41 PM
#32
Originally posted by mAdD MAX
Thank you very much for that information..from what I understand it means that it has a lot of miniscule engine parts in the oil? Ok..so I guess I should get Amsoil now? Can I just add Amsoil oil when there is still Castrol oil in the engine? Or will this mix and match screw the engine up?
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
Thank you very much for that information..from what I understand it means that it has a lot of miniscule engine parts in the oil? Ok..so I guess I should get Amsoil now? Can I just add Amsoil oil when there is still Castrol oil in the engine? Or will this mix and match screw the engine up?
Yes the sealant is RTV...I did some researching and it seems quite labour intensive. It turns out I have to unbolt a few suspesion components in order to remove the oil pan. Damn complicated suspension!
Sorry to hear the repair is that complicated. I guess nothing is that simple any more, the price we pay for advances in engineering I guess.
04-07-2002, 06:02 PM
#33
Originally posted by Lime
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
yo, boys, I did some research and gave it a try. Bill never put RP in his oil analysis charts (I read them thoroughly). Thinness aside, I wanted to try something else.
Uh, yeah, that's because no one has submitted a sample that used Royal Purple. From my research, it has more detractors than fans. But I would be happy if someone would start using it exclusively to see how it holds out.
Mechanics and racers recommended RP, so I am giving it a try.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
Yes, it is 5w 30, I don't want THICK OIL. I am saying it was unnaturally thin. You people are hardly experts yourselves, so I don't see why you are so egotistical and rude.
04-07-2002, 06:41 PM
#34
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Uh, yeah, that's because no one has submitted a sample that used Royal Purple. From my research, it has more detractors than fans. But I would be happy if someone would start using it exclusively to see how it holds out.
[/B]
Uh, yeah, that's because no one has submitted a sample that used Royal Purple. From my research, it has more detractors than fans. But I would be happy if someone would start using it exclusively to see how it holds out.
[/B]
I'm switching to Amsoil next though, so I must be biased like all the other Amsoil converts 
-hype
04-07-2002, 07:56 PM
#35
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
Re: Sorry to go off-topic..but..
Originally posted by mAdD MAX
Could some one please give me more information about syntethic oil leaking or damaging seals?
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
Could some one please give me more information about syntethic oil leaking or damaging seals?
I ask this because on my 240SX, while putting syntethic oil (Castrol Syntec) for the first time on an engine that has 75K miles, it was found that the seal between the engine and the oilpan was leaking a little. Now I can't find any visual signs of oil leakage (ie: oil falling to the driveway so I'm taking this at the mechanic's words). Now in reading this post I found that synethic oil can leak thru seals...is this a serious problem or is it supposed to leak through seals??
04-07-2002, 07:59 PM
#36
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
Originally posted by DanNY
i'm not a expert..but your observation is not entirely true. define "unnaturally thin"? none of us are really oil experts..but many have sent their oil to a lab and they noted the results (bill, jeff, russ, many others)
i guess you can't take it when you're wrong enh?
i'm not a expert..but your observation is not entirely true. define "unnaturally thin"? none of us are really oil experts..but many have sent their oil to a lab and they noted the results (bill, jeff, russ, many others)
i guess you can't take it when you're wrong enh?
Forgive me for trying to shed some light, or at least open up some discussion NOT flaming (until you turned it into that) on an area which no one is entirely sure about.
04-07-2002, 08:06 PM
#37
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,154
yup, I'll probably try AMSOIL next and see how the three compare. SO far, the car seems to be quieter at idle. The PCVv that I replaced was clean, so I don't really think that is causing the difference, but maybe it is.
Anyway, to back up to my original post, I am going to try the three over my normal 4k intervals, and see what happens.
Bill's data spec sheets are really great, and I commend his research. I am just trying some others, because the Mobil1 was not what I think I want out of an oil...but maybe it is! I'll find out.
FYI, I am not using the race RP, just the standard 5w 30.
Sorry for sounding "millitant," I just hate when people run off their mouths and use sarcasm on a post that isn't something meant to be rude or sarcasm-inducing. I am trying to keep people open-minded; instead of saying "mobil 1 is the only synthetic to use," I want to make sure we are doing what's best for our cars. If you don't care, then don't post.
Anyway, to back up to my original post, I am going to try the three over my normal 4k intervals, and see what happens.
Bill's data spec sheets are really great, and I commend his research. I am just trying some others, because the Mobil1 was not what I think I want out of an oil...but maybe it is! I'll find out.
FYI, I am not using the race RP, just the standard 5w 30.
Sorry for sounding "millitant," I just hate when people run off their mouths and use sarcasm on a post that isn't something meant to be rude or sarcasm-inducing. I am trying to keep people open-minded; instead of saying "mobil 1 is the only synthetic to use," I want to make sure we are doing what's best for our cars. If you don't care, then don't post.
04-08-2002, 12:34 AM
#39
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
wow...I didn't know a thread about OIL could get so heated
wow...I didn't know a thread about OIL could get so heated
