Since our previous oil discussion thread was locked I was interested to see who has run 10W30 and the effects of this. In commenting on the last thread I have run Royal Purple and Mobil 1 (both synthetic). I usually run 5W30, but when I ran the Royal Purple it was the summer in Texas so I ran 10W30. The RP oil worked fine and I ran it for probably 3-4k because this was before the oil spreadsheet even existed. I've never had a problem with oil consumption or oil brands either so I feel I am pretty unbiased. On my next oil change I will be submitting Mobil 1 with 5k on it so we can see if the oil has any extended drain problems. The only reason I switched back from RP to Mobil 1 was because I felt they both "performed" the same (if I can say that Bill ) and Mobil 1 was easier to get and was slightly cheaper. Next I plan on trying Amsoil because I'd like to go an extended drain interval of 10-15k.

The biggest question for me on the 10W30 is will it quiet the "clicking" of the VQ? I believe our clicking is from injectors, but on the DSMs moving from a 5W30 to a 10W30 helps get rid of clicking (sorry for lack of a URL).
-hype

 

I think "clicking" is a symptom of oil not reaching parts of your engine at startup. If that's the case, then I would look at your oil filter, not the oil. Are you using Purolator PUREONE?? This filter has a very thick filter medium, which could contribute to oil starvation at startup. Also, maybe your filter may not have a good, or none at all, anti-drainback valve. Next oil change, try a stock Nissan filter and see what happens.

That being said, I've been using 10W30 Synth blends with WIX filters and have never had any cliking in my motor.

DW

 

What is the viscosity (sp?) ratings on the 10W/30 and the 5W/30??
How do these apply?

 

That's great. I look forward to those results.



I didn't lock the thread. Please don't imply actions that I've taken without asking privately. I am not the only moderator on here. In fact, I rarely take action these days.

Why would I not want you to state how they performed? Where on earth or here have I stated that I didn't want your opinion or input? I simply don't understand how many members here can "feel" any difference between changing oil brands (dino or synthetic), given they are the same viscosity.

The only Maxima engine family where this is experienced consistently is the VG30E. It is not usual to have this startup clicking noise in the VQs that are driven on a daily basis. In addition, you may want to look at changing filters to see if this alleviates your "clatter" on startup. A 10W/30 should minimize that effect as well as you have stated.

 

Bill I wasn't implying you locked the thread or did anything wrong. I don't speak up much in regards to flames, but I am probably one of your biggest supporters, unbeknownst to yourself. I am also an admin of a BBS and I know exactly how you feel being a moderator.

The only reason I even mentioned your name was because I changed oils simply because of the price difference and lack of "feeling" performance difference. I didn't want to be in the "I know because I felt it" category

As far as oil filters go I've used Mobil 1 and Nissan filters and didn't really notice a difference. The clicking isn't really that loud nor does it bother me, but if switching to 10W30 makes it go away I'm prepared to use 10W30 (especially here in TX). I thought more people had mentioned the clicking before though.

I apologize for implying you have any evil streak in you at all Bill and hope that you'll forgive my sarcasm

Since no one has replied to this thread I guess I'm the only one who has ever used both 5W30, 10W30, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Mobil 1 Filters, and Nissan Filters
-hype

 

Don't worry about it, I know you are one of my supporters because I think there are about 4 or 5 here.....It's much easier to count the friends than the enemies....


Some of your comments confused me, which is why I addressed them.


Except for Royal Purple, I have tried all that you have tried. Since you live in TX, you probably can justify using 10W/30 anyway.

 

#3

 

generally, if a LOUD clicking occurs only at startup, the engine isn't pulling enough oil in at startup. What's the mileage on your max, and what year is she/he? I ask because excessive carbon buildup associated with high mileage can also cause "ticking," but the ticking is generally noticed the most durinig times of engine strain (like going up a hill). Constant loud ticking can be due to a bad lifter, of course, but that's unlikely unless you've severely stressed the motor. Also remember that the VQ's always tick because of the timing chain. I'm sure this is recap, but oh well.

I will have the RP tested when I take it out, so we can add it to the datasheets. Bill knows I find those datasheets very useful, and I appreciate them; I am glad he took the time to work on them. The reason I am switching around is just a general loudness of the running engine using mobil 1.

While we're at it, how much oil are you guys generally putting in inititally?

 

The loud ticking if it's the lifters could be a few things.

1) If you oil filter's anti-drain back valve is not sealing well, it could allow more than the normal amount of oil to drain back into the pan. Upon start up, the lifters are not filled w/ oil anymore and "click" until they fill again.

2) If your car has a varnish build up on the lifters, it could make then stick and thus click.

3) It just could be the injectors clicking

 

Lime,

I have been watching this thread and like Bill, I am very anxious to see how the RP does in your car. It does not rank real high in "The Motor Oil Bible" rankings rleative to other synthetics but these rankings are based on published spread sheets. Used oil analysis is a much better tool (IMHO) to compare oils.

I thought I read that you were going to remove the RP at 3000 miles and have it analyzed? Is this right? I might suggest you keep it in there for 5000-6000 miles to get a better side by side comparison with the other oils. If I remember the spread sheet, most of the samples are in this range. Secondly, I am not so sure that oil degradation is a linear relationship with mileage. Oil that looks good at 3000 miles may look more than twice as stressed at 6000. Take a look at the spread sheet and see what the most common drain interval is and sample it then.

Don