Don in Texas

iTrader: (-2)

Ok,

Here's something to keep you busy in between all the "What size tire can I use" posts. hehe

I am installing new drive-axles on my Maxima. This transmission is the VLSD from an Infiniti I-30 Touring. I installed it in my car about a year and a half ago. I have about 105,000 miles on this car and have never changed the axles (or CV's). CV's are known to go bad on cars as soon as 50,000. I'm really surprised they have lasted as long as they have.

I started looking at new axles about 3 months ago, when I started to hear the "CV clicking" noise, commonly identified with CV joints going bad. Click is heard when going around corners, or backing in or out when the wheels are turning. I figured if I was going to do it....I would go ahead and do both. Since I am in the "driveline performance arena" I decided to look for someone who could manufacturer CV's that would be stronger than stock. I found someone who built these prototypes for me, with the agreement that if they were the right balance and could hold up to abuse I could give it, I would exclusively be offering these axles to you guys. Don't ask me where I got them built, cause I ain't gonna tell you.

This series of posts will deal with the removal and installation of BOTH axles. Sit back and enjoy the show.

This is a tell-tale sign of a bad CV. Just the sight of that heavy grease on a $600 wheel is enough to make you throw-up.


Here is the view of the grease that came from the CV boot that just happened to rip 3 days after I got my new axles. I wasn't really ready to do the installation, but this tear in the CV boot got me off my ***.



To remove the axles, all you need to do is unbolt the two bolts that hold the spindle to the strut assembly, and the big nut in the center of the axle. When you do that, you can tap out the axle from the wheel hub.


This is the passenger side axle out of the car. There is a bracket that holds the axle at the half-way point because of the length. This is held to the engine by three bolts. This axle was out of the car in 20 minutes.


This is the drivers-side of the car with the axle removed. You will have to "tap" the other side the the axle to push the "c" pin out and release the axle from the transmission. I did it with a long punch and a hammer.


This is the drivers-side axle out of the car.


These are the NEW axles. I am waiting on a few parts (new seals, new end-link bushings, pins, etc). I will go into more detail on some of these things when I finish up the installation on Thursday.


STAY TUNED.............

98MAX

Thanks for the great info Don. If this works out good, would it be a discount if bought with the VB.(heheh)

Confused

iTrader: (4)

can't wait for part 2.

Whitemax

Seriously, will there be any axles offered to us 5 speed guys? Are they the same? I have almost 110,000 so I'm sure I'll be needing some one of these days soon....

Synki

Don- you make everything sound and look so simple. Good job on the info/pics.

Don in Texas

iTrader: (-2)

I will be able to get these for the 5-spd guys too. I don't want anyone to mis-understand: It is difficult to actually see how much stronger these axles are, because I am using them for everyday use.

Time is really the only way to tell, unless There is a guy willing to dump his clutch at 5-6,000 RPM's 1,000 times in a row with slicks on. (but again, the tranny would give out first). Its not going to be a noticable modification right away, it will only prove stronger in the long run.

Stay tuned........

Slickismax

iTrader: (4)

BTW, on the pass. side CV axle, you don't have to remove the bracket. The CV comes out of the bracket, you just have to unbolt the three screws on the side of the CV link that goes into the bracket, then it should come out. I did it your way the first time, then I realized you could just unbolt it from the bracket. Much easier when you have limited space and don't have every tool. Just a small tip that you probably already knew!