Dave B

I got a set of Warpspeed Stage I subframe connectors installed last Saturday. This is a night and day difference kind of mod. No joke. The ride home (3.5 hours on a horrible Missouri highway) and cruising around Kansas City for the past 2 days has allowed me to truely feel the difference in the car. Surface inperfections that use to cause vibration in the cabin is pretty much gone, crashing bumps are now meet with a thump (no more crashing), far fewer little rattles over big bumps (my car hardly rattled to begin with), increased turn-in speed, much less wobbly feel and much less roll going into slightly bumpy highway sweepers and entrance ramps, and most importantly.....hardly any of the pitching and rocking on bumps that caused the rear beam to go crazy. My setup is Intrax springs (2" drop), AGX/Koni, and front strut tower. I love the SFCs.


Dave

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I'd like to get mine installed someday... they are still sitting in my garage

thezcarguy

MAXINXS

Dave,

Do these help at all with traction when launching, or are they just a handling mod?

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Who did the install?

dmontzsta

iTrader: (8)

It is a must mod for now lowered Maximas too. Me and zcarguy had the pleasure of prodotyping them, that was about 6 months ago, and I am still loving them.

ericdwong

I wouldnt doubt it for one second. The 4th gen maxima body flexes like no end. Just watch the next time you jack up the car, the body tweaks and flexes all over and the doors dont close. No wonder these and the FSTB works so well as well. The flexible chassis.

Hehe, hey Dave so do you still subscribe to when you said "Hmmm...subframe connectors will do little for the Maxima. The 4th gen Maxima doesn't have near the flex the 4th gen F-Body has. I had a 94 Z28 hardtop and it wasn't as stiff as my Maxima. My z28 was much stiffer than the T-top F-Bodies. The convertible is even worse. Simply put, the 4th gen Max is a stiffer car all around. I know, I've owned both. " from http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=flex%2A

Anyway, I'd do this sometime as well except I'm fresh out of cash. Is the weight difference negligible for the weight conscious drag racer?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

20 (or 30?) lbs. on the packaging label for stage 1 & 2.

Dave B

Dude, I was WRONG I still hold true to the fact that my Maxima was stiffer than my Z28. Now my Maxima is a couple notches above where it was. I seen much worse flexing on other cars when jacked up. Before the SFCs, with the nose jacked up 16", I could open all my doors on my Max and the car didn't exhibit the interesting popping and creaky noises and hard to close doors like some other cars I've seen. On my buddies Del Sol you're lucky if the door can close when the car is jacked, same went for my old 90 CRX Si or my Z28.

I did this mod primarely for refinement because I honestly believe lowering any car does put added strain on the chassis therefore it's weaknesses are exagerated when lowered. The SFCs bring back all of the "backbone" and then some. It really does feel like a much more expensive car. Straightline performance (traction) hasn't changed from what I can tell. It's the turns. The car is FAR more planted. I'm not making this up. Before the SFCs, the car always felt glued, but it always felt a bit out of control. Now it feels completely planted and wants to go faster.

The Stage I SFCs weigh 24lbs or about equal to 3 gallons of gas. On a high torque FWD car, the added weight won't do anything.

Maxinxs-
I've finally realized that traction is much more dependant on tire selection than car set up. I recently purchased Sumitomo HTR Z-rated tires and I can launch very hard. Traction is not a problem like it was with my 215/55 all-season performance Yokohamas. I can barely chirp 2nd now. The SFCs might help some, but I think the biggest improvement in performance was directed towards the rear of the car.

1Max2NV-
Best Brake and Muffler did the install. This is Warpspeed's installer. Make sure to use a drive-on lift.


Dave

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

how much are these things?

MaximaMan

What are these? Never heard of 'eM? Or at lesat by this name/abreviation

Lordrandall

iTrader: (4)

www.warpspeedperformance.com for you guys looking for them.

darrrr, i want!

2K255HP

Is it another name for a rear sway bar??

Lordrandall

iTrader: (4)

Did you go to the website?

mitch33x

iTrader: (5)

how much was the install?

Albertt

What was involved. How did you strip the undercoating?

Thanks
AL

theblue

dave, I'm still not sure if they would be worth it for me... I'm very lowered (GC+AGX) currently at about a 2.3" drop and I don't really notice any flex on the frame and the car feels well planted all the time. I want my car to handle the best it possibly can and I just feel that I'm already at that point. do you really think these will help me, in my case?

is anybody with the connectors going to the big north east meet?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

You'll feel a difference (we have similar setups). I was just telling Dan and Dallas (yesterday) how the SFCs reduced what little body roll the car had with the GCs and Konis. I was quite surprised.

Stage 2 isn't on yet either.

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (1)

My 4th gen has never made ANY noises when I jack it up....and when it is up...the doors open and close like it's on the ground.

On an interesting note....MAX2000JP and I had his car jacked up a while ago, and his DID make noises and DID have trouble closing the doors....

I thought the 5th gen chassis was 30% stiffer than the 4th gen.....riiight

Ramius83

What are the exact differences between the Stage 1 and the Stage 2 setups. I am very interested in this.....might be my next "little" investment on the Maxipad....

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

My set is in the mail. I'm not sure if I can find an installer in time to install these before the NE meet.

2ndMAX

I'd love to have these put on, but I really don't know any shops that I would trust to install these on my Max. If you find someone in the NE, preferrably the tri-state area please share that info, and possibly speak to the shop about having other Maxima's show up for the install. I stayed away from these because I just dont have a shop I can trust to properly install them.

Lime

I would but I'd have a few concerns about doing that to a unibody car. I'm also still waiting for my Y, so I can't really order anything else at this time from them.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Why? The fox bodied Mustangs almost NEED them when running 400hp in their Fairmont chassis.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

aaron.. i am on an almost 4" drop and my car bounces around and makes all kinds of noises, wish i had the stiff comfy ride..

i am probably going to invest in these as well because my ride is so crappy anything can help..

isn't someone making radial arms for our car as well?? those would be an incredible help.

shortchaz

I got mine the same time as Dave as well but I only have stock suspinsion other than the RSB and FSTB. There is a huge difference with these, almost no body roll except for the very tight turns at high speeds. The install was $100 for stage 1 and 2 on my car. WSP will be coming out with stage 3 as well which will connect the front and back sides together.

Maximamike

Those don't do **** for your ride.. LOL

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

and what technical backing do you have?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

SFCs will help ANY Maxima. no matter what suspension they have on them, period.

those of you slammed with coilovers should worry about ground clearance though. I've got Eibachs on my car and the stage II SFCs.. I bottom out almost weekly around here, but it's only in a couple places near home that I have to drive through. (like the entrance to the drug store and post office near my house).
speedbumps and stuff like that have never been a problem. I've never had any problems on any "public" roads either.

http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...s/MVC-001F.JPG

there's a pic of the STage I and II SFCs on my 3rd gen.
the STage II is the big X brace and the lateral brace right behind my cat. the Stage I are the long bars down each side of the car.
they made the biggest difference of ALL other suspension mods I've done to the car- more difference than Eibachs, Tokicos, ST sways, AND FSTB all at once.

guido_sst

I told you so...

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

He's got a BS in B.S. and talks more $hit he doesn't understand than anybody I know.

But in this case, he is right. Radial arms will only keep the wheels from hopping on hard accerlaration. they won't do squat to stiffen the frame or help the ride. in fact, they'll possibly make the ride more harsh, as the suspension can't move as freely as it did before the radial arms..

mitch33x

iTrader: (5)

Yes, if there is a shop in the tri-state area, preferably NJ I will def order these

ericdwong

I'm not trying to start a fire here, but what were the points the Cattman made out about subframe connectors being detrimental to a beam axled car? The argument was in the "obtaining Y pipe warranty" thread, but it later got deleted.

As for the radius arms, I hope to God somebody comes out with these soon and that they are effective. Anybody with a Quaife differential knows the wheel hopping when you nail it at a prepped drag strip, or when you start fooling around in the rain. I will probably try control arm polybushings to see if they do anything being as they are cheap.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Wouldn't radial arms help reduce front suspension deflection during hard turns etc?? Alot of the old Datsuns had them ie.. 510 etc.. I think one of the last usa Nissans to have them was the Infinity M30.

Albertt

...do you mean trailing links?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

That's why I'm an electrical engineer.

and I only prototype parts and post the results. my speculations on what happens before I try them is not to be taken seriously.

I could see your point, but from the looks of things, solid control arm bushings on our car would help to do the same thing.. hmmmmmm... maybe my next mod.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Any muffler shop that can weld will be able to install these for you. $60 for stage 1... DIY for stage 2.

Italic Ian

Just a few things...

I dont know how new the SFC (subframe connector) idea for the Maxima is..The SHO community has been using them for a few years..

1. Recently, it has been noted that perhaps the front of the SFC's should be tapered and beveled. Why? For the Taurus, the front subframe bolts are supposed to break and push the drivetrain underneath the car in the event of an accident. With the SFC's, its theoretically possible that the flat edges of the connectors will impede this from happening. So, this means that you are more likely to have your motor come through the firewall and into you instead of under you. This applies to the Taurus. I don't know how the crumple zones are set up on the Maxima.

2. SFC's are nothing magical. There are a few different types available for the SHO, shorty's, longer style, 2x2 box steel setup and single box steel. You can make your own, buy them premade or have a shop make them for you. At the very least, make sure that they are painted or powdercoated so that they will not rust. Because they are usually hollow, cap the ends and try to coat the insides as much as possible. If not, they will rust from the inside out.

3. There are a few debates on how to install these. (as far as preloading the chassis, etc.) If there is someone knowledgeable on how to do it that has done them on Maxima's before, I'd listen to that person...At the very least, make sure you prep the surface to be welded by sanding the area to metal and painting it over after the welding is complete. (Rust prevention)

4. Who can do this? Anyone who is smart who can weld. This means exhaust shops, performance shops, etc. Look for places that do a lot of Mustang/Camaro work. They might laugh since SFC is a bit of a misnomer with a unibody car. If you call them unibody stiffeners, they will get the idea. Either way, they have been welding these on cars since the beginning of time..There is a place off of rt1 in North Brunswick, NJ that does a lot of work on SHO's. They fabricate and weld their own set of SFC's on. The name is Brunswick Automotive Pros; the place is owned by Bob and Lenny (brothers) Schickler. I don't have the number handy, but if you do a search on www.anywho.com , I am sure you can find it..

I hope this helps..

BTW, yes, they make a hell of a difference on any unibody car..

Ian
93 SHO 5 speed
not stock

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

I heard preloading the car is a must. Those drive on ramps were recommded by WSP instead of your regular lifts. I have been asking around the mustang crowd for a good place locally that has experience dealing with these. I'm leaning towards a good domestic performance shop. I really don't like dealing with muffler/brake shops since they aren't as careful with customer's car.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Well, in my humble opinion, you will not be liking solid control arm bushings at all. I think mega noise in vibration will be transmitted into the cabin area/steering wheel. "Maybe" poly but solid anything on the suspension is asking for trouble.