emax02

iTrader: (1)

Heres the problem ever since I got my Alloy Flywheel/Center Force Clutch/UPRD ECU my car winds up so fast in first gear my cars front tires go BAMM BAMM BAMM !! like they are hoping or something,I did not incounter this problem very often before the new mods but know it always doss it at WOT.So do polly Eurathane bushings help this or would they have nothing to do with it,and is there any other way to correct this problem with out changing my driving style. TIA.

MaxRod33

iTrader: (2)

I think I have the same problem! Anyone know why??

VQracer

Cattman

http://www.cattman.com

sold these, but they were pricey

Kenneth

iTrader: (8)

yeah engine mounts. very expensive doh

Kenneth

iTrader: (8)

frickin' fwd.

Kenneth

iTrader: (8)

i thought dave b put konis on his max for the front and it reduced wheel hop a lot. try e-mailing him maybe..

Custommaxima.com

I think that if you have factory suspension it makes the car jump. The soft ride of the factory springs act like a rubber band to make the front wheels bounce on WOT. Replacing them with a stiffer suspension kit should fix the problem. That is just what i heard. I have factory suspension and mind bounces too. DOH!!

emax02

iTrader: (1)

I have Tokico's and Eibach's so whats the deal?

MaxRod33

iTrader: (2)

I hope thats why...I'm puttin in my new suspension in a couple weeks, I hope that cures it. I have brand new Z rated tires, but they spin and hop too much, specially when accelerating fast it on turns.

Custommaxima.com

hmmmmmmm good question, I guess that mechanic is full of crap. I noticed that with mine it only tends to do it on certain types of pavement. I can go to one parking lot and get the wheels to bounce every time, then go to another and never get it to no matter how hard i try.

FAST4EN

So I'm guessing that the sway bar have nothing to do with this? They could be a problem, but most likely the suspesion.

Custommaxima.com

No that only supports cornering Hence "sway" in sway bar.
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wdave

Your tires are probably "hoping" they're not hopping. Polly doesn't know anything about bushings but polyurethane bushings might help, good shock absorbers would probably make the most difference.

MaxRod33

iTrader: (2)

Hey Newbie, you a English teacher or somethin BTW, he already has good shock absorbers.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

check your engine mounts. if they are weak or broken it will transfer too much weight towards the back of the engine bay..hence weight is not ON the drive wheels/axle area but behind it.
increase the rear tire pressure will help slightly.
a slight decrease in the front tire pressure will help too. but if your going to run like this constatly then i would recommend getting firmer springs in the rear to reduce the "squat" effect...adjustable struts in the rear would be ideal here. firmer when u want to launch..softer when you want cruise.
the decrease in front air pressure will give u less handling performance.
if you have stereo equipment in the trunk..consider removing it. the extra weight will add to the squat and more front wheel hop.
so there i'm doing my part to help you out...flame me all u want.
Dan

[Edited by DanNY on 12-03-2000 at 05:31 PM]

THEKNITE

iTrader: (1)

I WISH I HAD A RWD. NO IDEA ON HOW TO FIX THIS. MY PREVIOUS FWD CAR HOPPED AND MY MAX HOPPS.
ONLY ADVICE SO FAR: DON'T SPIN OR PEEL OUT!
PEACE

emax02

iTrader: (1)

that was some good advise,I never start flame wars I just defend my self, right now my front tires are 40PSI and my rear are 35 PSI maybe if I switch it around like 40 in the rear and 35 in the front than it will get a little beter.Thanks

I also have been noticing a real annoying sound when I either take a hard left or floor it 1st or 2nd at 3K+RPM'S coming from the front dash or maybe under the hood it's hard to tell,the noise is hard to explain but it's kinda like a real loud rattle noise hmmm,could this be a sign of a bad engine mount?Thanks ohh yeah I have 91K.

sleeper

i have had this since my car was new. i am hoping urathane motormounts and heavy rated shocks and springs in the rear (and front) will eliminate this. i am going to research this issue, this winter.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

metal banging noise? if yeah then it may be the y-pipe hitting your front sway bar when you WOT it..the torque of the engine swinging back. the rattling is the engine vibrating on the bar.
at 91K it's a good time to check out the mounts.
good luck
Dan

emax02

iTrader: (1)

How do I check my engine mounts?And if I decide to replace them how much labor is involved?Does a shop have to raise the engine up off the mounts to replace them?Thanks a lot

Also I checked out the CattMan site and did not see anything about PolyEurathane {still can't spell it} mounts does any one no how I can find some of these? Thanks

wdave

No, I'm not an English teacher, nor am I a "newbie". I am an engineer with over 15 years road racing experience. I have set up and won with a number of different cars and also had the good fortune to drive a great many other cars as an instructor. Theoretically, we all like to drive our fast cars fast, and talk to each other about it in the same language so that we can improve them.

Dave

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

damn i though u knew your $hit...ok
ok a very poor but ez test is to open the hood and get in your car...since you have a 5spd just try to blip the throttle (in netural). do it once but hard. do u see the engine moving a lot? and i mean it tilts. if you see a lot of tilting when u blip the throttle then they are more then likely broken or on it's way. w/ a auto all u do is hold your brake and put it in gear. the shock of the tranny shifting will show the amount of wear on the mounts.
labor is not too bad. the shop will just need to support the engine maybe lift it slightly and lower the center frame member to get to the mounts. there's 2 engine mounts and i believe 2 tranny mounts. if your strapped for cash just do the 2 engine mounts and do the tranny mounts another time. more than likely a lead foot like yourself (and most of the people here) the front mount would be in worst shape than the rear one. no one sells poly mounts. you can use flexane to stiffen them up..but i dunno if u want that downtime. i think it takes a week or more for them to cure in the mounts.
Dan

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

well Dave this is the first i've seen u post..but welcome anyway. i guess some people don't like to be corrected..as long as the point/idea is taken then everyone is cool. everyone just stay calm..keep your egos in check. no need to have a daily flame going on. hey if me and emax can get along you guys can too..DAMN IT!
Dave if you like to drive fast cars then what are you doing w/ a maxima?? heehee j/k
Dan

wdave

I had a '94 Mazda Protege LX (the car to have for SCCA SSC class until they let the Miata in!) and had a change of lifestyle - more long trips. The problem is that there are very few choices of V6 5spd. sedans under $30k, especially if you expect low maintenance. I think the Maxima is a great compromise, and a very compromised car. It does need help in the ride and handling department, as well as some soundproofing to get rid of the excessive road noise, some interior adjustments to fix the poor driving position, poor pedal placement and horrible clutch pedal. The ready wheelspin is quite an embarrasment, as is the exterior appearance (fortunately I can't see it while I am driving).
Overall, it's a great car fo the price but in need of serious help to be great.

Dave

Nismo87SE

Follow the link below and refer to your haynes/chilton/FSM manuals for engine mount removal. I put in the 80 durometer urethane, but if you want you can try the 90 durometer. Also you should fill all your engine/tranny mounts. This way it will keep them from breaking separately. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaver...-r/mounts.html

Dave B

Tell ya guys what, having heavier than stock wheels will increase heavy hop dramatically. The heavier weight of the larger wheels, increased inertia of the weight further out on the rim, and the lower profile tires puts much more force and weight on all the suspension components. I noticed when I had my heavier 47lb 17s on my Max, wheel hop was a big problem, especially on the when the rpms got past 4000 rpms. Now I've got a much lighter set of 16s (37lbs) and I've got no wheel hop what so ever. I use to be able to just roll onto the gas anywhere from 2500-4000 rpms and I could easily blow off my tires.

About the Maxima engine mounts. Every Maxima will "rock" on it's mounts if you rev it up in neutral. Your mounts aren't bad if the engine rocks. My Maxima does it, my Z28 did it, my wife's Altima does it, my CRX Si did it, and my dad's Tahoe does it. You best bet is to follow the link on making your own stiffer engine mounts. I'm probably going to do it in the future.


Dave

[Edited by Dave B on 12-03-2000 at 08:46 PM]

MaxRod33

iTrader: (2)

Dave, I was just fooling around man, hence the Also, the "newbie" comment referred to your Maxima status on the left side under your name (it was not an insult on your knowledge of cars).

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

true...every engine will "rock" or else vibrations will be bad.
but if the mounts are bad the engine will shift a lot more when you blip the throttle...would u agree w/ me on that one? on a auto all u do is put the car in gear...the bump of the tranny will show how much the engine moves and if there's a lot of movement then it's time check the mounts. also it's a crude way to determine how bad are the mounts..it's faster then pulling the mounts and check for cracks yourself.
also Dave if u have any suggestions on checking the mounts w/o pulling them then i would like to hear them.
Dan

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dave B
[I]About the Maxima engine mounts. Every Maxima will "rock" on it's mounts if you rev it up in neutral. Your mounts aren't bad if the engine rocks. My Maxima does it, my Z28 did it, my wife's Altima does it, my CRX Si did it, and my dad's Tahoe does it. You best bet is to follow the link on making your own stiffer engine mounts. I'm probably going to do it in the future.


Dave

[Edited by DanNY on 12-03-2000 at 10:08 PM]

Dave B

Man we've got too many Dave's in here

If your tranny mounts were bad on a 4th gen, you'd know it. The front and rear mounts on the VQ are fluid filled. They'd be leaking if they got torn. The automatic VQ have "electronic" fluid filled front and rear mounts which work to cancel out heavy tranny and engine vibration at idle. A lot of the reason why the VQ is so smooth at idle is because of the fluid mounts. They are super soft. Which do you want? A super smooth idle or a little vibration from idle to 1500 rpms with stiffer mounts? I've fought over this with myself for a while now. Filling the mounts with a 80 series durometer urthane seems to be the best bet to reduce hop and even intial wheelspin. You'd only need to fill the front and rear mounts. I looked in my Chilton's manual and it looks fairly easy to remove the mounts. Two bolts are attached to the lower cross member and one bolt attacts to the motor. You'd need a good breaker bar, Liquid Wrench, and torque wrench because the bolts are on there with ~100 ft/lbs of torque. Make sure to use good jack to support the engine when you've got one end raised because I bet it would be a be-atch to get it back into place.


Dave

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

so the only way to determine if you have bad mounts is to look at them and see if they are leaking. what about 3rd gens w/o the fluid mounts? any suggestions on that?
yeah i did the engine and tranny mounts on my car...it's not a difficult process. a lot easier w/ air tools. just don't let that engine fall on your head.
Dan

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

doug u need to REWRITE that OP book because you're bad at it!!
Dan

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

oh and your cut and paste skills are great doug...did u spend a lot of time on it?
Dan

[QUOTE]Originally posted by doug
[I]dan I didn't know you considered yourself OP

am I not winning your heart? [QUOTE]Originally posted by DanNY
[I]doug u need to REWRITE that OP book because you're bad at it!!
Dan

[QUOTE]Originally posted by doug
[I]FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN FLAME DAN [QUOTE]Originally posted by DanNY
[I]check your engine mounts. if they are weak or broken it will transfer too much weight towards the back of the engine bay..hence weight is not ON the drive wheels/axle area but behind it.
increase the rear tire pressure will help slightly.
a slight decrease in the front tire pressure will help too. but if your going to run like this constatly then i would recommend getting firmer springs in the rear to reduce the "squat" effect...adjustable struts in the rear would be ideal here. firmer when u want to launch..softer when you want cruise.
the decrease in front air pressure will give u less handling performance.
if you have stereo equipment in the trunk..consider removing it. the extra weight will add to the squat and more front wheel hop.
so there i'm doing my part to help you out...flame me all u want.
Dan

[Edited by DanNY on 12-04-2000 at 11:47 AM]

RussMaxManiac

A few things, get Urethane Engine mounts, I think Courtesy might be getting these soon. Also adjustable shocks on the front (Koni) will prevent the tires from hopping so much by you adjusting it to stiff. This takes care of MOST of the hop...but its mostly caused by engine mounts.

Keven97SE

Here's a engine mount stiffening trick:

I learned it from the original MadMax. Cut some ~1" rubber hose and shove it into the "slot" in the front engine mount. I was able to shove two hoses in that space. You really have to compress the hose quite a bit to make it fit. What I found is that this adds a little more stiffness to the mounts, and I did notice a subtle but definite increase in off-line traction. The car bites better. And I haven't noticed any increase in engine vibration/roughness. It's definitely worth trying, being a dirt cheap mod.

emax02

iTrader: (1)

Interesting Idea Kevin,when you say hose what size hose and what material,do you mean like the hoses in the engine bay,and did you have to jack your engine up at all to jam the hoses in.Thanks

Also thanks every one for the help I tried what DanNY said about changing the air pressure in my tires and it helped quite a bit,I checked my tires PSI and the front tires were 38 PSI and the rears were BRight 22PSI/ Bleft 30PSI,so I did 32 PSI for the front tires and 38PSI in the rear tires,and you guessed it, it made a huge difference in wheel hop about a 75% improvement.Now I will have to try jaming some hose in the mounts or getting stiffer ones.Thanks again

Keven97SE

Yep, 1" diameter radiator hose. Cut it into lengths as wide as the front engine mount (~2" long). The first piece will go in okay, but push it towards the back (I believe...maybe it's towards the front) to give enough room to shove in the second hose.

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

UR Da King!!!