Amsoil formulation change...oh NO!
#1
Amsoil formulation change...oh NO!
Well, its finally happened, Amsoil has changed its base stock formulation on its XL-7500 series oils! I just received the June issue of Amsoil Action News and the title of the article is "Amsoil changes XL-7500 Formula to enhance oils, stay competitive." Sounds remarkably similar to Mobil's literature about its new Super-Syn version. The details go on to say that the change was in response to the ruling in 99 that Group III base oils are "synthetic" even though they are made from crude oil base components. Since Castrol, Mobil and others use Group III base stocks and promote them as full synthetics, Amsoil says that in order to remain cost competitive, they had to follow suit! I was about to order some XL-7500 for my next oil change....looks like I'm hitting Walmart at lunch looking for the last few quarts of Mobil Tri-synthetic...Oh what a sad, sad day...
#4
Originally posted by Y2K2Driver
Is Redline a true synthetic? If it is, I'll just have to move to them. It may be more expensive, but I think its worth it.
Is Redline a true synthetic? If it is, I'll just have to move to them. It may be more expensive, but I think its worth it.
#6
Originally posted by Y2K2Driver
Is Redline a true synthetic? If it is, I'll just have to move to them. It may be more expensive, but I think its worth it.
Is Redline a true synthetic? If it is, I'll just have to move to them. It may be more expensive, but I think its worth it.
#7
There's no need to get all bent outta shape. The XL-7500 series of Amsoil has always been their "cheap" oil, actually used to compete against the mainstream oils. However, it's unfortunate they have had to cave in on this.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
#8
Originally posted by bill99gxe
There's no need to get all bent outta shape. The XL-7500 series of Amsoil has always been their "cheap" oil, actually used to compete against the mainstream oils. However, it's unfortunate they have had to cave in on this.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
There's no need to get all bent outta shape. The XL-7500 series of Amsoil has always been their "cheap" oil, actually used to compete against the mainstream oils. However, it's unfortunate they have had to cave in on this.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
Bill I agree with your knee-jerk reaction statement, but I have always understood that the XL-7500, while being their 'mainstream' oil, was fully synthetic with Group IV base stocks but with a tad bit lower additives to meet API certification requirements. Thus, if someone wanted to change oil every 7500k miles, then this oil would function only a small step below the top 2 oils in that regard. Was I wrong. I never used it, but in fact I was going to use it until I get to the bottom of this bearing wear crap I'm dealing with...now I'm stuck with Mobil or some other possibly Group III stocked shiieet masquerading as a full synthetic! Anyway, you're right, for most of us, keep using either of the top 2 versions and you'll be OK for many miles to come.
#9
Originally posted by srbarnes4ever
Bill I agree with your knee-jerk reaction statement, but I have always understood that the XL-7500, while being their 'mainstream' oil, was fully synthetic with Group IV base stocks but with a tad bit lower additives to meet API certification requirements. Thus, if someone wanted to change oil every 7500k miles, then this oil would function only a small step below the top 2 oils in that regard. Was I wrong. I never used it, but in fact I was going to use it until I get to the bottom of this bearing wear crap I'm dealing with...now I'm stuck with Mobil or some other possibly Group III stocked shiieet masquerading as a full synthetic! Anyway, you're right, for most of us, keep using either of the top 2 versions and you'll be OK for many miles to come.
Bill I agree with your knee-jerk reaction statement, but I have always understood that the XL-7500, while being their 'mainstream' oil, was fully synthetic with Group IV base stocks but with a tad bit lower additives to meet API certification requirements. Thus, if someone wanted to change oil every 7500k miles, then this oil would function only a small step below the top 2 oils in that regard. Was I wrong. I never used it, but in fact I was going to use it until I get to the bottom of this bearing wear crap I'm dealing with...now I'm stuck with Mobil or some other possibly Group III stocked shiieet masquerading as a full synthetic! Anyway, you're right, for most of us, keep using either of the top 2 versions and you'll be OK for many miles to come.
You're correct. At first, I thought about using it because it would be virtually the same as the regular Amsoil synthetic. Then, after the lawsuits, etc. I figured Amsoil would have to cave in and go the route of Castrol for that oil.
The day they change their other oils to Group III base stocks is the day I go on a campaign to seriously hurt their business.....I doubt that will happen based on how those oils are currently marketed....
#10
I don't get it. If you are having some bearing wear concerns, step up to Amsoil's better stuff. 2000 series or similar.
Originally posted by srbarnes4ever
Bill I agree with your knee-jerk reaction statement, but I have always understood that the XL-7500, while being their 'mainstream' oil, was fully synthetic with Group IV base stocks but with a tad bit lower additives to meet API certification requirements. Thus, if someone wanted to change oil every 7500k miles, then this oil would function only a small step below the top 2 oils in that regard. Was I wrong. I never used it, but in fact I was going to use it until I get to the bottom of this bearing wear crap I'm dealing with...now I'm stuck with Mobil or some other possibly Group III stocked shiieet masquerading as a full synthetic! Anyway, you're right, for most of us, keep using either of the top 2 versions and you'll be OK for many miles to come.
Bill I agree with your knee-jerk reaction statement, but I have always understood that the XL-7500, while being their 'mainstream' oil, was fully synthetic with Group IV base stocks but with a tad bit lower additives to meet API certification requirements. Thus, if someone wanted to change oil every 7500k miles, then this oil would function only a small step below the top 2 oils in that regard. Was I wrong. I never used it, but in fact I was going to use it until I get to the bottom of this bearing wear crap I'm dealing with...now I'm stuck with Mobil or some other possibly Group III stocked shiieet masquerading as a full synthetic! Anyway, you're right, for most of us, keep using either of the top 2 versions and you'll be OK for many miles to come.
#11
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I don't get it. If you are having some bearing wear concerns, step up to Amsoil's better stuff. 2000 series or similar.
I don't get it. If you are having some bearing wear concerns, step up to Amsoil's better stuff. 2000 series or similar.
#12
Originally posted by bill99gxe
There's no need to get all bent outta shape. The XL-7500 series of Amsoil has always been their "cheap" oil, actually used to compete against the mainstream oils. However, it's unfortunate they have had to cave in on this.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
There's no need to get all bent outta shape. The XL-7500 series of Amsoil has always been their "cheap" oil, actually used to compete against the mainstream oils. However, it's unfortunate they have had to cave in on this.
Just don't buy XL-7500 Amsoil and it won't matter.......and I have never recommended this series because it was marketed as a "mainstream" oil and I thought they would have to do this garbage to remain competetive....
All who all of a sudden want to switch are knee-jerk reacting to an oil that isn't even recommended here.......There is a difference between regular Amsoil full synthetic and the XL-7500 oil.
#13
Question. How exactly do you think Nissan would know what oil you put in unless you told them?? You can do receipts for anything. Plus Amsoil has a section for dealing w/ oil related factory warranty refusals.
Originally posted by srbarnes4ever
I've been using their 25k/yr stuff for the last 3 changes Jeff. The rationale behind the switch is I want to be fully inside the constraints of the Nissan manual with regards to oil usage, so I'll be performing a couple of changes at 3750 miles with fully API certified oils. Amsoil's good stuff isn't API certified and neither is it worth the money to change it every 3750....but once I confirm where my problem is with respect to bearing wear, I want to be able to show Nissan Blackstone analyses depicting oil types that fit their recommendation. Then I'll switch back if this is all a fluke.
I've been using their 25k/yr stuff for the last 3 changes Jeff. The rationale behind the switch is I want to be fully inside the constraints of the Nissan manual with regards to oil usage, so I'll be performing a couple of changes at 3750 miles with fully API certified oils. Amsoil's good stuff isn't API certified and neither is it worth the money to change it every 3750....but once I confirm where my problem is with respect to bearing wear, I want to be able to show Nissan Blackstone analyses depicting oil types that fit their recommendation. Then I'll switch back if this is all a fluke.
#14
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Question. How exactly do you think Nissan would know what oil you put in unless you told them?? You can do receipts for anything. Plus Amsoil has a section for dealing w/ oil related factory warranty refusals.
Question. How exactly do you think Nissan would know what oil you put in unless you told them?? You can do receipts for anything. Plus Amsoil has a section for dealing w/ oil related factory warranty refusals.
You're right, but here's my thought process. Worst case is that for the next 3 oil changes that I get analyzed they all show excessive bearing wear as my initial one did. I'd like to be able to go to or write to Nissan and show them the failing analysis results which do indicate the type of oil used and for them to not give me any **** at all about oil types. That's really the only rationale I have for this. I think I'll be up against it with them anyway because the car isn't acting defective so I don't want any small piece of info for them to start gnawing at to prolong things. Maybe I'm thinking about this incorrectly though so let me know your thoughts and opinions.
#17
Originally posted by Jeff92se
maybe and no.
maybe and no.
#18
I just got of the phone with Tech Services and they confirmed that the XL-7500 has gone to a Group III basestock. In order to be competitive and meet the the SL rating, it was more cost effective to go this route and further seperate the XL-7500 from the other products.
Tech services also confirmed that the XL-7500 is the ONLY series that was affected by this change. All the other oils continue to use Group IV PAO basestocks and nothing has changed in regards to recommended uses and drain intervals regarding these oils, so everyone can breathe a little easier now.
Tech services also confirmed that the XL-7500 is the ONLY series that was affected by this change. All the other oils continue to use Group IV PAO basestocks and nothing has changed in regards to recommended uses and drain intervals regarding these oils, so everyone can breathe a little easier now.
#20
Re: Include 5W20 Oil?
Originally posted by knapp9
Amsoil only markets a 5w20 oil in the XL-7500 series. I presume that means the 20wt is now a grooup III too, and not PAO based ???
Amsoil only markets a 5w20 oil in the XL-7500 series. I presume that means the 20wt is now a grooup III too, and not PAO based ???
But please don't run 5w20 anyhow! The increased wear on the engine will eliminate any gas mileage advantages.
#21
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Plus Amsoil has a section for dealing w/ oil related factory warranty refusals.
[/B]
Plus Amsoil has a section for dealing w/ oil related factory warranty refusals.
[/B]
#22
Maybe they are right. Don't see why they would have to be responsible for someone else's problems. Especially when Lexus has extended their warranty for engine sludge related problems. I assume Toyota did the same(both use the same engine). So I assume Amsoil is in the right here.
Originally posted by maxxed
Be careful here! Amsoil has reportedly refused to back people who have the Toyota sludge problem, calling it an engine design deficiency.
Be careful here! Amsoil has reportedly refused to back people who have the Toyota sludge problem, calling it an engine design deficiency.
#23
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Maybe they are right. Don't see why they would have to be responsible for someone else's problems. Especially when Lexus has extended their warranty for engine sludge related problems. I assume Toyota did the same(both use the same engine). So I assume Amsoil is in the right here.
Maybe they are right. Don't see why they would have to be responsible for someone else's problems. Especially when Lexus has extended their warranty for engine sludge related problems. I assume Toyota did the same(both use the same engine). So I assume Amsoil is in the right here.
If you had an engine oil related problem, you could easily get into an agrument about whether the problem was engine design or an oil related problem. I believe the incident I described, happened before Toyota took responsibility, so the car owner was left out in the cold for a while.
#24
Here's a link to the warranty page:
Amsoil Warranty
That sucks about switching the XL's over... I have been setting up all my family's cars with that oil... My wife's Honda uses 5W20, but at least I have a full case - maybe by next year they will have one in the other series...
Amsoil Warranty
That sucks about switching the XL's over... I have been setting up all my family's cars with that oil... My wife's Honda uses 5W20, but at least I have a full case - maybe by next year they will have one in the other series...
#25
Re: Include 5W20 Oil?
Originally posted by knapp9
Amsoil only markets a 5w20 oil in the XL-7500 series. I presume that means the 20wt is now a grooup III too, and not PAO based ???
Amsoil only markets a 5w20 oil in the XL-7500 series. I presume that means the 20wt is now a grooup III too, and not PAO based ???
#26
Re: Re: Include 5W20 Oil?
Originally posted by iwannabmw
The entire XL-7500 has been switched. Needless to say, what I emailed you about the differences is now obsolete.
The entire XL-7500 has been switched. Needless to say, what I emailed you about the differences is now obsolete.
#27
Re: Re: Re: Include 5W20 Oil?
Originally posted by knapp9
I never received your email that I requested. Sorry.
I never received your email that I requested. Sorry.
#28
Re: Amsoil formulation change...oh NO!
Originally posted by srbarnes4ever
Since Castrol, Mobil and others use Group III base stocks and promote them as full synthetics
Since Castrol, Mobil and others use Group III base stocks and promote them as full synthetics
#29
Re: Re: Amsoil formulation change...oh NO!
Originally posted by adc100
Correction- Mobil 1 does not use Group III. It's still PAO based. The new ingredient-SuperSyn is not Group III, it is a new type of PAO. Sinceit is a heavier viscosity the pour point is higher. It is a wear enhancing additive. I know the Mobil 1 15W-50 now contains moly. The other grades may as well. I have nothing against Amsoil-in fact I used to sell the stuff. Its a fine product. But it does appear many Amsoil dealers/users are unusually ready to bash Mobil 1.
Correction- Mobil 1 does not use Group III. It's still PAO based. The new ingredient-SuperSyn is not Group III, it is a new type of PAO. Sinceit is a heavier viscosity the pour point is higher. It is a wear enhancing additive. I know the Mobil 1 15W-50 now contains moly. The other grades may as well. I have nothing against Amsoil-in fact I used to sell the stuff. Its a fine product. But it does appear many Amsoil dealers/users are unusually ready to bash Mobil 1.
#30
Originally posted by Highlander
Here's a link to the warranty page:
Amsoil Warranty
That sucks about switching the XL's over... I have been setting up all my family's cars with that oil... My wife's Honda uses 5W20, but at least I have a full case - maybe by next year they will have one in the other series...
Here's a link to the warranty page:
Amsoil Warranty
That sucks about switching the XL's over... I have been setting up all my family's cars with that oil... My wife's Honda uses 5W20, but at least I have a full case - maybe by next year they will have one in the other series...
You really shouldn't be using 5W/20 anyway. 20 weight is just too significant of a viscosity difference on engines designed around 30 weight viscosity at temperature. You can see in the spreadsheet those who use 5W/20 have much lower sustained viscosity levels, which is why they tend not to hold up to long drain intervals and why Amsoil hasn't produced a 5W/20 for extended drain use......
Ford and Honda should be dope slapped for recommending/forcing an oil that their engines weren't designed to use.....
#31
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Highlander,
You really shouldn't be using 5W/20 anyway. 20 weight is just too significant of a viscosity difference on engines designed around 30 weight viscosity at temperature. You can see in the spreadsheet those who use 5W/20 have much lower sustained viscosity levels, which is why they tend not to hold up to long drain intervals and why Amsoil hasn't produced a 5W/20 for extended drain use......
Ford and Honda should be dope slapped for recommending/forcing an oil that their engines weren't designed to use.....
Highlander,
You really shouldn't be using 5W/20 anyway. 20 weight is just too significant of a viscosity difference on engines designed around 30 weight viscosity at temperature. You can see in the spreadsheet those who use 5W/20 have much lower sustained viscosity levels, which is why they tend not to hold up to long drain intervals and why Amsoil hasn't produced a 5W/20 for extended drain use......
Ford and Honda should be dope slapped for recommending/forcing an oil that their engines weren't designed to use.....
"Thinner motor oils such as 5W-20 or even 0W-20 are becoming more popular these days and are even specified by some OEM's (FORD & HONDA) on new 2001 cars.
Although these oils are promoted as "energy conserving" they generally trade a gain of less than 0.1 MPG in Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) for shorter useful engine life.
FORD which has previously designed cars to have 10 year or 150,000 miles life has reduced the mileage life expectation to "beyond 100,000 miles" on vehicles that are operated on SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil.
HONDA only claims "useful life" as 7-years or 70,000 miles in EPA certifications for their CIVIC which uses SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil, while the previous model that utilized SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil was certified for 10 year or 100,000 mile durability.
Since both HONDA and FORD Warranty their NEW cars for ONLY 3-years or 36,000-miles the reduction in engine life expectancy is not a factor.
By contrast Mercedes-Benz recommends use of ONLY Synthetic Motor Oil that is at least SAE 5W-40! This is a recent increase in recommended viscosity from SAE 5W-30. Apparently customer research indicated that engine longevity is more important to typical MB customer than fuel economy.
Even more important is the High-Shear High-Temperature MINIMUM specification in SAE J300. In tables below you will notice that there are "two" SAE 40 specifications, one with minimum HSHT value of 2.9 cP for Automotive Oils (SAE 0W-40; 5W-40; 10W-40) and the other for Heavy Duty Oils (HDO) (SAE 15W-40; 20W-40; 25W-40; 40).
This double specification is at insistence of heavy duty engine manufacturers who have required HSHT viscosity limits consistent with good engine durability in high-load, severe service operation. HSHT value of 3.7 cP or 27% more viscous oil at 150ºC (300ºF).
Yes, a 27% increase in viscosity makes a difference between Automotive engine that lasts 100,000 miles and Truck engine that lasts 1,000,000 miles!
When you consider that most Automotive Motor Oils are ONLY 3 cP,"
#32
Originally posted by gsleve
Now the rest of the story,little tidbit on viscosity and how and the reasons why Ford and Honda went to these oils. From an article I read :
"Thinner motor oils such as 5W-20 or even 0W-20 are becoming more popular these days and are even specified by some OEM's (FORD & HONDA) on new 2001 cars.
Although these oils are promoted as "energy conserving" they generally trade a gain of less than 0.1 MPG in Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) for shorter useful engine life.
FORD which has previously designed cars to have 10 year or 150,000 miles life has reduced the mileage life expectation to "beyond 100,000 miles" on vehicles that are operated on SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil.
HONDA only claims "useful life" as 7-years or 70,000 miles in EPA certifications for their CIVIC which uses SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil, while the previous model that utilized SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil was certified for 10 year or 100,000 mile durability.
Since both HONDA and FORD Warranty their NEW cars for ONLY 3-years or 36,000-miles the reduction in engine life expectancy is not a factor.
By contrast Mercedes-Benz recommends use of ONLY Synthetic Motor Oil that is at least SAE 5W-40! This is a recent increase in recommended viscosity from SAE 5W-30. Apparently customer research indicated that engine longevity is more important to typical MB customer than fuel economy.
Even more important is the High-Shear High-Temperature MINIMUM specification in SAE J300. In tables below you will notice that there are "two" SAE 40 specifications, one with minimum HSHT value of 2.9 cP for Automotive Oils (SAE 0W-40; 5W-40; 10W-40) and the other for Heavy Duty Oils (HDO) (SAE 15W-40; 20W-40; 25W-40; 40).
This double specification is at insistence of heavy duty engine manufacturers who have required HSHT viscosity limits consistent with good engine durability in high-load, severe service operation. HSHT value of 3.7 cP or 27% more viscous oil at 150ºC (300ºF).
Yes, a 27% increase in viscosity makes a difference between Automotive engine that lasts 100,000 miles and Truck engine that lasts 1,000,000 miles!
When you consider that most Automotive Motor Oils are ONLY 3 cP,"
Now the rest of the story,little tidbit on viscosity and how and the reasons why Ford and Honda went to these oils. From an article I read :
"Thinner motor oils such as 5W-20 or even 0W-20 are becoming more popular these days and are even specified by some OEM's (FORD & HONDA) on new 2001 cars.
Although these oils are promoted as "energy conserving" they generally trade a gain of less than 0.1 MPG in Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) for shorter useful engine life.
FORD which has previously designed cars to have 10 year or 150,000 miles life has reduced the mileage life expectation to "beyond 100,000 miles" on vehicles that are operated on SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil.
HONDA only claims "useful life" as 7-years or 70,000 miles in EPA certifications for their CIVIC which uses SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil, while the previous model that utilized SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil was certified for 10 year or 100,000 mile durability.
Since both HONDA and FORD Warranty their NEW cars for ONLY 3-years or 36,000-miles the reduction in engine life expectancy is not a factor.
By contrast Mercedes-Benz recommends use of ONLY Synthetic Motor Oil that is at least SAE 5W-40! This is a recent increase in recommended viscosity from SAE 5W-30. Apparently customer research indicated that engine longevity is more important to typical MB customer than fuel economy.
Even more important is the High-Shear High-Temperature MINIMUM specification in SAE J300. In tables below you will notice that there are "two" SAE 40 specifications, one with minimum HSHT value of 2.9 cP for Automotive Oils (SAE 0W-40; 5W-40; 10W-40) and the other for Heavy Duty Oils (HDO) (SAE 15W-40; 20W-40; 25W-40; 40).
This double specification is at insistence of heavy duty engine manufacturers who have required HSHT viscosity limits consistent with good engine durability in high-load, severe service operation. HSHT value of 3.7 cP or 27% more viscous oil at 150ºC (300ºF).
Yes, a 27% increase in viscosity makes a difference between Automotive engine that lasts 100,000 miles and Truck engine that lasts 1,000,000 miles!
When you consider that most Automotive Motor Oils are ONLY 3 cP,"
Your point is well taken on the 5W-20 and what Honda and Ford is doing.
#33
By contrast Mercedes-Benz recommends use of ONLY Synthetic Motor Oil that is at least SAE 5W-40! This is a recent increase in recommended viscosity from SAE 5W-30. Apparently customer research indicated that engine longevity is more important to typical MB customer than fuel economy.
Under high shear conditions, such as when you accelerate suddenly at a traffic light, you actually squeeze the oil out of the bearings. Its under these conditions that a thicker oil will provide greater protection because it takes more force to squeeze it from the bearing surfaces. If you feather the gas, or drive on the highway you won't notice any difference in bearing wear with a thicker oil. In fact you will pay a penalty in gas mileage because the thick oil will be harder to pump therefore loading the engine a bit more.
To get the best cold weather performance you can select a wide range synthetic oil like 5w-40. With wide range oils it is very important to use a synthetic oil as conventional oils require too much Viscosity additives (polymer goo/sludge producing chemicals) to acheive wide ranges.
#34
Originally posted by maxxed
The German manufactures specify a thicker oil than the Japanese or American manufacturers. I think the Germans may be correct.
Under high shear conditions, such as when you accelerate suddenly at a traffic light, you actually squeeze the oil out of the bearings. Its under these conditions that a thicker oil will provide greater protection because it takes more force to squeeze it from the bearing surfaces. If you feather the gas, or drive on the highway you won't notice any difference in bearing wear with a thicker oil. In fact you will pay a penalty in gas mileage because the thick oil will be harder to pump therefore loading the engine a bit more.
To get the best cold weather performance you can select a wide range synthetic oil like 5w-40. With wide range oils it is very important to use a synthetic oil as conventional oils require too much Viscosity additives (polymer goo/sludge producing chemicals) to acheive wide ranges.
The German manufactures specify a thicker oil than the Japanese or American manufacturers. I think the Germans may be correct.
Under high shear conditions, such as when you accelerate suddenly at a traffic light, you actually squeeze the oil out of the bearings. Its under these conditions that a thicker oil will provide greater protection because it takes more force to squeeze it from the bearing surfaces. If you feather the gas, or drive on the highway you won't notice any difference in bearing wear with a thicker oil. In fact you will pay a penalty in gas mileage because the thick oil will be harder to pump therefore loading the engine a bit more.
To get the best cold weather performance you can select a wide range synthetic oil like 5w-40. With wide range oils it is very important to use a synthetic oil as conventional oils require too much Viscosity additives (polymer goo/sludge producing chemicals) to acheive wide ranges.
#35
I guess I'm a 10W40 man running 10W30 then
DW
DW
Originally posted by bill99gxe
I would bet 5W/40 or 10W/40 or 15W/50 would be recommended more here if we had 100+ MPH speed limits and some decent roads.....30W is fine for here in the states, unless you drive like Russ.
I would bet 5W/40 or 10W/40 or 15W/50 would be recommended more here if we had 100+ MPH speed limits and some decent roads.....30W is fine for here in the states, unless you drive like Russ.
#36
Originally posted by maxxed
The German manufactures specify a thicker oil than the Japanese or American manufacturers. I think the Germans may be correct.
Under high shear conditions, such as when you accelerate suddenly at a traffic light, you actually squeeze the oil out of the bearings. Its under these conditions that a thicker oil will provide greater protection because it takes more force to squeeze it from the bearing surfaces. If you feather the gas, or drive on the highway you won't notice any difference in bearing wear with a thicker oil. In fact you will pay a penalty in gas mileage because the thick oil will be harder to pump therefore loading the engine a bit more.
To get the best cold weather performance you can select a wide range synthetic oil like 5w-40. With wide range oils it is very important to use a synthetic oil as conventional oils require too much Viscosity additives (polymer goo/sludge producing chemicals) to acheive wide ranges.
The German manufactures specify a thicker oil than the Japanese or American manufacturers. I think the Germans may be correct.
Under high shear conditions, such as when you accelerate suddenly at a traffic light, you actually squeeze the oil out of the bearings. Its under these conditions that a thicker oil will provide greater protection because it takes more force to squeeze it from the bearing surfaces. If you feather the gas, or drive on the highway you won't notice any difference in bearing wear with a thicker oil. In fact you will pay a penalty in gas mileage because the thick oil will be harder to pump therefore loading the engine a bit more.
To get the best cold weather performance you can select a wide range synthetic oil like 5w-40. With wide range oils it is very important to use a synthetic oil as conventional oils require too much Viscosity additives (polymer goo/sludge producing chemicals) to acheive wide ranges.
#37
The BIG question is, IMO, If the US government wasn't pushing CAFE standards so hard on automakers, how strongly would 5W30 be recommended by them?
I strongly beleive that 5W30 is recommended simply b/c it will provide that extra 0.5 mpgs out of a car. To me, that's the wrong thinking, if you want feul economy, buy a smaller engine. Sheesh, that's why I have a V6 instead of a V8 or SUV that can't even break 20 mpg if it begged and tried. A friend of mine has an expedition. He spends $60/week on gas. He's starting to get really sick of it. At least he's running 5W30
DW
I strongly beleive that 5W30 is recommended simply b/c it will provide that extra 0.5 mpgs out of a car. To me, that's the wrong thinking, if you want feul economy, buy a smaller engine. Sheesh, that's why I have a V6 instead of a V8 or SUV that can't even break 20 mpg if it begged and tried. A friend of mine has an expedition. He spends $60/week on gas. He's starting to get really sick of it. At least he's running 5W30
DW
#38
Originally posted by dwapenyi
The BIG question is, IMO, If the US government wasn't pushing CAFE standards so hard on automakers, how strongly would 5W30 be recommended by them?
I strongly beleive that 5W30 is recommended simply b/c it will provide that extra 0.5 mpgs out of a car. To me, that's the wrong thinking, if you want feul economy, buy a smaller engine. Sheesh, that's why I have a V6 instead of a V8 or SUV that can't even break 20 mpg if it begged and tried. A friend of mine has an expedition. He spends $60/week on gas. He's starting to get really sick of it. At least he's running 5W30
DW
The BIG question is, IMO, If the US government wasn't pushing CAFE standards so hard on automakers, how strongly would 5W30 be recommended by them?
I strongly beleive that 5W30 is recommended simply b/c it will provide that extra 0.5 mpgs out of a car. To me, that's the wrong thinking, if you want feul economy, buy a smaller engine. Sheesh, that's why I have a V6 instead of a V8 or SUV that can't even break 20 mpg if it begged and tried. A friend of mine has an expedition. He spends $60/week on gas. He's starting to get really sick of it. At least he's running 5W30
DW
#39
Bill, and others..
The reason I have the 5W20 for the wife's Honda is because they not only recommend it, they "sort of" require it. The owner's manual specifically says to use 5W20, and nothing more... Of course, at the time I read that, and ordered the oil, I thought it was odd, but I said to myself "Hey, it's Honda, they should know what they're doing, right?".. I assumed that the reason for the 5W20 was due to some slight improvements in gas mileage, but I didn't follow through with the thoughts on engine life... I should have said to myself instead, "How the heck would they know if I used 5W20 or 5W30". Even worse, they recommend changing oil every 7500 miles - even on dino oil!!! I can get her till next year on the 5W20 I have, then go to 5W30 next year... Unless, uhhh, anyone wants to buy some 5W20, cheap...
Thanks for the input...
The reason I have the 5W20 for the wife's Honda is because they not only recommend it, they "sort of" require it. The owner's manual specifically says to use 5W20, and nothing more... Of course, at the time I read that, and ordered the oil, I thought it was odd, but I said to myself "Hey, it's Honda, they should know what they're doing, right?".. I assumed that the reason for the 5W20 was due to some slight improvements in gas mileage, but I didn't follow through with the thoughts on engine life... I should have said to myself instead, "How the heck would they know if I used 5W20 or 5W30". Even worse, they recommend changing oil every 7500 miles - even on dino oil!!! I can get her till next year on the 5W20 I have, then go to 5W30 next year... Unless, uhhh, anyone wants to buy some 5W20, cheap...
Thanks for the input...
#40
Since there are so many Amsoil people here I thought I'd ask. Is the 0-30 series 2k really that much better than the 5-30? If so, please explain. I noticed that the 5-30 has less weight loss in the Noack test. I live in VA. Can anyone sell me Amsoil cheaper than the stores with delivery. I think many local stores are selling the 5-30 for $5.75 and the 0-30 for $7.75 or $8. If it can be matched or beat, I'd rather give the business to you rather than the store.