as i stated before me SR20DEN and his neighbor installed my h&r's yesterday and so far i love them. I feel much more stable in turns not hardly any body roll but need a FSTB to stablize the front like the rear it feels way to tight and makes the front feel very unstable when taking hard turns. So far no bottoming out very stock like ride and a decent drop. About a 3 finger gap in front and a 2 finger in back but looks almost even when standing back away from the car. No more nose diving or lift off when standing on the gas and i feel it might help out with my launching at the track waiting to see the looks of custommaxima.com's FSTB before i buy a different model and probably going to have an injen intake before hitting the track. O well thats just my thoughts on the springs and of course i stayed on stocky struts until they wear out then hopefully we will have a better selection when i need them. I hope the front settles about another 1/4" or so and i will be happy later Matt

 

trust me, they will settle. Great springs, though with the AGX, I'm finding they're kinda soft for me. With the Tokicos, they were AWESOME.

 

I think my ride was little better with the Tokicos. The AGX's make my ride feel more truck-like. The AGX's definitely rebound a lot a better though. I think I'll re-tune or reinstall the shocks after I install the subframe connectors. I've been thinking about my install on the shocks and was thinking...does it matter how far down you compress the springs when you bolt down the top mount?

 

there are torque specs in the chiltons/haynes for those bolts...I'll post them again when I get home.

 

I believe I have the torque down correctly. But my issue is, how to you figure torque? If you compress the spring a lot, you can turn the nut until the strut runs out of thread. This should cause the overall strut/spring assembly to be shorter. Of course when you have the weight of the car pushing down on them it might not matter, but when you hit a bump, dive, launch, or anything you won't have the spring travel that you may desire.

Second scenario: if you don't compress the spring too much. You should be able to get a few turns on with the nut and it when you get to the proper tightness, the overall spring and strut assembly will be taller. This may be favorable for better spring travel on the upspring. I don't know if this will offer a better ride or not. That's my question. I do know that if that at a certain point when turning the nut, you can cause the strut piston to turn and twist up the strut boot and all...this does not do any good.

 

hmmmmm...I think if you don't tighten that screw, it will strip heh. THe springs are made to specifications, and it doesn't matter about a few turns of that middle screw; it should be tightened to spec, so nothing strips or falls apart. A few turns of that screw aren't going to make a difference in the compression, and if it's a lot of turns you're talking about, the springs won't be seating properly, and will be loose in the strut assembly.