Today I was driving and on my way to get my brother, I am at a light then my car shuts off completely then I try to restart and it wont restart at all. I checked and swapped the blue relays to my stock fuel pump which the Vortech FMU is hooked up to as well doesnt work. I swapped out my 15 Volt or amp fuse thats on the FMU cable that doesnt work. I went to sears to buy a volt meter no power to the FMU while trying to crank the car so I know for a fact the car is getting no fuel also the the fuel lines feel soft vice stiff. Did I miss something help please???

 

fuel pump took a dive. Check fuel pressure if it isn't around 36-43psi at idle or there is none at all. Buy another fuel pump (try getting a Z32TT or Q45 fuel pump as a OEM upgrade.

 

I'm a bit confused...

The Vortech FMU doesn't run off the battery... just the vacuum line.

Are you refering to the inline pump mounted underneath the FMU?

To check for fuel pressure... have someone turn the key to the "on" position while you pinch a fuel line from the inline pump... The relay will energize the pumps for only 1 second but the lines will "inflate" hard.

If it doesn't then there isn't any power to the FP relay... even if the intank pump fails, the inline pump will 'fire up' temporarily.

 

Check the ground to the relay.

 

Chunger yes I was referring to the pump under the actual FMU that doesnt come on at all!!!



There is no fuel pressure what so ever. 1MAX2NV, I checked the ground relay by my kick panel connection is still good, I even switched the blue relays as well with another and that didnt work, this morning I removed the 15A fuse to the fuel pump that didnt work. The dealer said that for Diagnostics they will charge me $85 but if its the fuel pump that wont be covered under my warranty but if there is no power to either then its an electrical problem I dont think my both fuel pumps just died, I am not electronically inclined . I told them not to replace my fuel pump because I want to go with a Walbro fuel pump.


Who is reliable dealer or store to get a walbro fuel pump, I emailed that guy NIU who posted at the group deal and informed him can he second day air me one and no reply at all so I guess he dont care anyone else or reliable to shop to get one from??

 

Your aux inline pump works off the stock FP relay... even if the the actual intank pump failed, the aux pump should pump some amount of fuel to the engine. I don't think it's the intank pump. Check the power to the FP at the relay you swapped around. If the 'throw' on the relay shows a good 12V during 'starting' with the key then it would seem both the inline and intank FP are dead...

here's a link for the Walbro... I think someone had something on the for sale forum too...

auto performance engineering

BTW - you don't need the whole kit... just the GSS342 pump itself...

 

I been wanting an intank fuel pump seems in my opinion that all S/ced guys are getting performance out of them. Also the part number listed is all I need then correct? I cant check the voltage on my relay since my car is at Nissan. Both pumps are dead I removed my seat and heard no noise out of either of them.

 

The kit is listed for a 95-98 Eclipse/Talon Turbo - FPD006
Tell him you don't need the $13 filter/pickup kit...

You know that by buying this pump, this is probably not going to solve your immediate problem.

 

Yep..something electrical is wrong. I highly doubt both fuel pumps would be bad at the same time. There are two fuses in the fuse block. There is a 10A and there is a 15A. Did you check the 10A one? I know you said the 15A one is good. That 10A one goes to the ECU and trigger the fuel pump relay at the kick panel. The fuel pump control is fairly simple.

 

Here are all the components of the fuel pump control.

10A fuse - You haven't check this
15A fuse - You checked this already
ECM - You haven't check this, but very unlikely to go bad.
Fuel pump relay - You checked this already
Intank Fuel pump - Might be the problem, but still your aux pump should've work.

That's all. Lets assume all the wires are good, because most of the time they are. Check all the harness connectors to make sure they are tight.

 

AAA I didnt check that 10A fuse where is this fuse located exactly?

I checked the one thats on the wire that connects to the positive side of the battery and this morning one last ditch effort the 15A thats the blue one under the left side of steering wheel but did not check this 10A. If thats the problem there goes $85.00 my dyno and straight pipe money. But as you guys said how in the heck can two fuel pumps go bad at the same time , it has to be an electrical problem.

Both of you guys thank you very much for your help God Bless both of you

 

is your car working now?

 

No is still at towncenter Nissan, They were trying to make all kinds of excuses not to warranty my car by using the supercharger the supercharger, they thougth it was the grey wire on the side of the engine, since I had removed my blower about 6 times already I may have pinched and they are using that as an excuse. Well that was not the case, it is blowing a 7.5A fuse that powers the ECS , this is going to cost me at least $700 to get fixed is all electrical nothing to deal with Fuel system it was all electrical as I had predicted. I am not very wise but not totally dumb either. I thoroughly cleaned the battery area this past weekend and he said that the wire keeps frying my 7.5A fuse that controls the ECS. So the car never started, he guaranteed that was the problem we will see. Man all that money I could have got the JS system thats on the group deal Dynoed my car and also got the straight pipe. Oooh well there goes almost a whole Grand down the freaking drain. I need to be more careful with the electrical parts of the car but besides I am always careful. I dont know what was really going on. All I know is that if I couldnt figure it out in the last day and half I knew it would take them just as long if not longer. I thank Mardigrasmax, chunger and 1Max2nv, thank all you guys I really appreciate the help


Jaime

 

Jaime, sorry to hear about your problem. Hope that it's nothing major.

 

Mike our dealer in New Orleans Ray Brandt is the best dealer ever. These clowns all they are trying to do is blame it on the supercharger you did this and that it voids your warranty. This is going to cost me about $500-$700 dollar bill tomorrow if they in fact get the car started, they said they found the problem. Is not the supercharger at all the only electric part of the supercharger is the power to the fuel pump and grounded relay which did not blew the 7A fuse to the ECS.

 

You either have a short somewhere or you fried your ECU.

 

I"m looking at my FSM, there is no 7.5 A fuse that's hooked up to the ECU. Is it at the fuse box in the engine bay or inside the car fuse box?

 

Have them explain exactly what they did to fix your car, if they charge you... I'm still not sure why they are charging you $700 for... A blown fuse? Sounds fishy...

They have to prove that "your mods" directly caused the failure in order for them to void your warantee... It's their burden.

 

Well they called me 2.5 hours ago claiming my car is ready to go, I believe they even took it on a test drive I am sure thats the first s/ced max they seen out here. I will ask them what was the problem. Total cost is going to be $415 or $417 out the door. I over estimated at $85 an hour for 6 hours I rounded the figures with tax to $500 plus. Well I ll repost and inform everyone what it is and hopefully if it happens to any of the other .org members they can now look at that problem prior to taking to a professional electrician to get fixed. By the way it was not the battery as they claimed either, I even dram about how I put everything back together when I swapped out this past weekend from two step colder plugz to one step.

 

For that sort of price, and the options for repair the .org came up with, I'd want to know exactly what they did, why they did it, and how they figured out to do it before I handed over any cash. I suppose that's your regular nissan dealership for you though. I once had them try to charge me $150 for the relay & install for my hazard lights during a tuneup. Turned out I just forgot to replace the fuse when I switched it to the cigarette lighter for the gtech the night before.

Seems like you're going to have to hand out the cash either way to get your car back unfortunately . Hopefully you can get them to repeat what they did however and pass it on. Good luck!

 

it's not even worth taking your car to a dealership like that.. I had to replace my headlight harness, dealership in NJ $500, dealership in FL $125... it's all about the dealership, if you take your car there not working of course they will **** you over.. i lost $1200 to AC because i snipped some wrong wires will working with stereo stuff.. trust me, they had better walk through every step they took for $417. I've learned my lesson.

 

My bet is on a wire short. Since it doesn't look like they replaced any parts. My money is on a short at the Aux pump or at the fuel pump relay.

 

Yup