O2 Sensors Group Deal!!
02-26-2004, 10:39 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
O2 Sensors Group Deal!!
www.oxygensensors.com
As of 6/20/04, here's what you do:
15% off the price on the website, and free shipping. I think this makes them well under the cheapest price anywhere. Money Orders only.
Go to www.oxygensensors.com and pick out the sensors you want (don't pay for them). Mike recommended the Walker sensors. Print out that paper, and mail the paper and money order for 85% of the order total on the printout, to that company. Remember to make it payable to "Auto Medic Supply or YOUR NAME". Go ahead and mail it to:
Auto Medic Supply
27500 Cumberland Rd.
Tehachapi, CA 93561 USA
Say you're with the Maxima deal.
Shipping is free as long as order after discount is over $50. Otherwise, add $5 to the total. This deal will go on as long as oxygensensors.com wants to...it's been several months and they haven't given me any signs of stopping. When it's done, we will put that on this thread. Until then, it is still good.
I'm starting medical school now, so I'm not going to be doing much with this anymore...which is fine because it's all between the buyer and oxygensensors.com anyway.
Matt
As of 6/20/04, here's what you do:
15% off the price on the website, and free shipping. I think this makes them well under the cheapest price anywhere. Money Orders only.
Go to www.oxygensensors.com and pick out the sensors you want (don't pay for them). Mike recommended the Walker sensors. Print out that paper, and mail the paper and money order for 85% of the order total on the printout, to that company. Remember to make it payable to "Auto Medic Supply or YOUR NAME". Go ahead and mail it to:
Auto Medic Supply
27500 Cumberland Rd.
Tehachapi, CA 93561 USA
Say you're with the Maxima deal.
Shipping is free as long as order after discount is over $50. Otherwise, add $5 to the total. This deal will go on as long as oxygensensors.com wants to...it's been several months and they haven't given me any signs of stopping. When it's done, we will put that on this thread. Until then, it is still good.
I'm starting medical school now, so I'm not going to be doing much with this anymore...which is fine because it's all between the buyer and oxygensensors.com anyway.
Matt
02-27-2004, 06:13 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 150
Can we pay via Paypal, or do we have to send Money orders?
02-27-2004, 06:23 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Just money orders
02-27-2004, 05:15 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 155
I'm in for 1 NTK, I'll check back at 20. 
02-28-2004, 01:27 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Originally Posted by chicago max98
i need both pm me budha with price i need them asap i want to put it with my y pipe and cat back thanks
Matt
02-29-2004, 02:36 PM
#8
Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ANy way we could get them to let us pay on there website, might speed the process up. I need all 3 of mine so I am ordering either way, but I would like to do this as fast as possible.
Thanks
Shawn
Thanks
Shawn
Originally Posted by budha56
Check their website, find the ones you want, multiply the price times 0.85, and that's your cost. Mail me that money order. It won't happen super-quickly though, unless people start getting in on this more quickly. I'm checking to see if we really need 20 people or if he'll let people start getting in now.
Matt
Matt
02-29-2004, 04:35 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Originally Posted by 4thgenguy
ANy way we could get them to let us pay on there website, might speed the process up?
03-02-2004, 05:18 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,469
im me let me know how much.. need the cat one 96 max se 5 speed
03-02-2004, 05:55 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
It's a straight 15% off the price quoted on the website. Each brand has a different price, so you just have to choose the part you want and multiply it by 0.85 That's the total you have to pay. So if it's a $100 part, your price is $85.
Matt
Matt
03-02-2004, 08:03 PM
#16
Originally Posted by budha56
It's a straight 15% off the price quoted on the website. Each brand has a different price, so you just have to choose the part you want and multiply it by 0.85 That's the total you have to pay. So if it's a $100 part, your price is $85.
Matt
Matt
03-02-2004, 08:30 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
I figured most people would just buy them now while they're cheap, since they pretty much always go bad anyway. They didn't give me a deadline yet, so unless they don't I'll probably just close it when we get 20 people or so. Right now I'm flexible though.
03-03-2004, 04:27 AM
#18
Originally Posted by budha56
I figured most people would just buy them now while they're cheap, since they pretty much always go bad anyway. They didn't give me a deadline yet, so unless they don't I'll probably just close it when we get 20 people or so. Right now I'm flexible though.
03-03-2004, 07:28 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Originally Posted by Subzero
How do we get the discount mention maxima.org?
03-03-2004, 11:33 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
I think you might be able to pull some codes even if you don't have a CEL, but I really don't have much experience with this.
03-03-2004, 12:34 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,571
Ya how do I know if there bad? I have 40k miles. Would new ones help gas milage. Also how long untill they need to be replaced again?
03-03-2004, 02:44 PM
#23
A few sites I've read on said to replace them around 100k miles since they become "slow" but you don't have to until your CEL comes on. I have 103k miles and I'm getting 14-16 MPG so hopefully the new sensors will get me around 20 MPG 
03-03-2004, 03:39 PM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
I'm replacing them at 104K too, even though I'm not getting any codes. I figure either way this will last me through the life of my car, and I can get them while they're cheap.
03-03-2004, 03:52 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,571
ok. So I guess If I only ahve 40k it's not necessary. I have no cel either. I jsut hoped that it ould help my gas milage. Guess that's not the problem then.
03-03-2004, 04:03 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
I have this on my computer...I think I copied it from the FAQ's? Anyway, you can try these things:
Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: www.maximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop. Sprintmax has a great spark plug changing writeup that can be found here: http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/sparkplug.htm
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: www.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). www.buyoxygensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to www.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (www.thepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at www.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
Last edited by gepetto on 01-07-2003 at 03:37 PM.
Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: www.maximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop. Sprintmax has a great spark plug changing writeup that can be found here: http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/sparkplug.htm
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: www.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). www.buyoxygensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to www.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (www.thepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at www.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
Last edited by gepetto on 01-07-2003 at 03:37 PM.
03-03-2004, 04:14 PM
#27
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 83
Budha56, please put me on the list. I want to order three Walker Universals. I just pulled codes 0304 and 0503, so I want to replace the KS and O2 sensors.
03-03-2004, 04:25 PM
#28
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 217
Hola
I need a rear oxygen sensor. Thanks for putting this together.
I need a rear oxygen sensor. Thanks for putting this together.
03-03-2004, 10:21 PM
#29
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 217
I'm also want to get one for my sister's 99 camry. It's for the front oxygen sensor.
Thanks
Thanks
03-06-2004, 09:04 AM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Yeah it's still going...I'm not even sure if we've met our minimum yet. My contact has been away. As far as harnesses, I bet we could get 15% off those if they sell them on the site, but they're not included unless they normally are.
03-06-2004, 09:20 AM
#33
If you buy the OEM type sensor, it'll come with a long wire and the connector (plug and play). If you buy the Universal type, it only comes with the long wire (you have to use your old connector). Your choice 
03-06-2004, 02:02 PM
#36
I have another question, which is the better brand for OEM o2 sensors? Bosch, Denso, or Walker?
One more thing (sorry), when I changed my Y-Pipe and looked at my o2 sensors, the one in front and the one in back were different, they didnt look teh same, is there a reason why? I havent even looked at the one on the CAT after teh y pipe, but I got a code for it so I might as well change it.
One more thing (sorry), when I changed my Y-Pipe and looked at my o2 sensors, the one in front and the one in back were different, they didnt look teh same, is there a reason why? I havent even looked at the one on the CAT after teh y pipe, but I got a code for it so I might as well change it.
03-06-2004, 03:49 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Originally Posted by D1NOnly34
Does anyone knwo if we could get 15% off the o2 Sensor socket tool too? I think I want to get one.
Matt
03-06-2004, 04:05 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 202
What kind of difference does price matter when buying these sensors. I mean, are the Bosch really that much better than the Walkers?
03-06-2004, 05:54 PM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 616
Originally Posted by Neif
What kind of difference does price matter when buying these sensors. I mean, are the Bosch really that much better than the Walkers?
Matt