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GD: D2 Racing 36 Way Adjustable Full Coilovers $825 shipped

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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 11:27 PM
  #121  
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Got mine this tuesday!!!!! Now im just waiting to see when I'm gonna have time to go install these...
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 12:25 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Iilac
Thanks for the reply. But I want a definite answer. I have heard that they will not retain suspension travel like the JIC's.
Yes I installed mine today and lowered it 2" and yes still the smae amount of suspension travel. The bottom collar with the two bolt holes, is mounted in a threaded tube for ride height adjustment. Haven't driven on them yet. I have to do the rears tomorrow. One thing I can say is, they are good quality so far, but where are the dam installation directions?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 12:28 AM
  #123  
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okay i got mine in today....how in the hell do you adjust the dampening? well i have an idea how to adjust it (turning the thin stick of metal supplied) but how do u freakin know which dampening setting you are on?
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 09:16 AM
  #124  
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Well you have "H" & "L" on the top so I'm going to guess high and low? I'll be driving mine later today. I'm going to do a complete write with pic...........stay tuned
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:32 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by steven88
okay i got mine in today....how in the hell do you adjust the dampening? well i have an idea how to adjust it (turning the thin stick of metal supplied) but how do u freakin know which dampening setting you are on?
Before you stick in the allen key looking ajuster screw on the plate with the dots. Use that as a guide to show how much you have adjusted.


We are placing another order at the end of the month, if you are interested in getting in on this please give me a call!
919-383-4605
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 06:20 PM
  #126  
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just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.

one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
Old Sep 25, 2004 | 11:17 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Larrio
just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.

one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
Larry how is the ride quality??????? im still debating on the teins or these??? ride better than your sprint agx set up?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Battle Max V2.0
Larry how is the ride quality??????? im still debating on the teins or these??? ride better than your sprint agx set up?
after being on the sprints for almost a year, these things are amazing. More suspension travel, the pillow ball mounts are great, and the adjustability gives each owner alot of room for comfortability. I'll take you for a ride next time after I finish the alignment.

still getting a clunk/pop. Which i attribute to either the front spring not seating correctly, or the spring in place when i'm turning.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 12:39 PM
  #129  
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I've got some questions that are probably pretty basic/stupid since I've never really paid attention to coilovers because they always seemed really expensive.

Anyway, would I be correct in my understanding that these would replace EVERY part of the stock suspension? That is, I wouldn't have to replace all the other parts that might need to be replaced when buying say illumina's and a spring? These are the kind of parts I'm talking about http://staff.jccc.net/dlee/maxima/suspension/. These would all be replaced with this system correct? Because once you figure in some/all of those parts that may need to be replaced, these really aren't that expensive. Also how reliable are these? Are they going to blow quicker than a regular strut/spring combination? Thanks.

After reading through the thread some more I've got another question. Is it correct that stock suspension travel is retained for any ride height setting? I could even lower it like 2" and not bottom out (aside from possibly hitting the frame or something)?
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 02:44 PM
  #130  
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all parts are replaced except the rear upper strut mounts which you can reuse or purchase new at Nissan for $45. The amount of travel stays the same but is still a rougher ride due to the stiffer spring rate. Mine is lowered 2.5 " and have hit some good dips and holes, without bottoming out.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 03:49 PM
  #131  
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So the pillowball mounts don't replace the front mounts? Also, I was reading maxmods an they said a complete coilover system (which it says D2's are) will replace all the rubber components of the suspension. Is this incorrect then? Thanks.

Here's the link if it helps http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaCoilovers
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #132  
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The D2s DO replace the front mounts just not the rear.
Old Sep 26, 2004 | 07:56 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by UrbanImport
The D2s DO replace the front mounts just not the rear.
Hey mike can you look at this pic and tell me if this is the way these are supposed to be mounted up front? People are telling me that they are installed wrong, but when I tried to install them the holes lined up one way only, so I don't see how I could have done them any differently?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 12:55 PM
  #134  
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How much longer are these gona be available for this price?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:17 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by slammed95
Swap your front coilovers and the problem is fixed.

I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
U mean front two is reversed?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:38 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by slammed95
Swap your front coilovers and the problem is fixed.

I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
Well according to mike @ Urban Imports and the guy that aligned the car today, they are at an angle so you can adjust camber and caster at the same time. The alignment shop liked the way they adjusted, said it was very easy to align.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:48 PM
  #137  
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that doesn't seem right. The camber is suppose to go horizontally left and right perdendicular to the front of the car (parallel to the strut bar). The way yours are set up, the wheels are diagonally adjusted in relation to the front of the car.

if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:54 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Larrio
that doesn't seem right. The camber is suppose to go horizontally left and right perdendicular to the front of the car (parallel to the strut bar). The way yours are set up, the wheels are diagonally adjusted in relation to the front of the car.

if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
I tried swapping the 2 front coilovers last night and wasted my time. When I put the right on the left side it went in the same way and angled toward the front center of the car, there was no difference. Going by the information I was given, they are in right. THe guy at the alignment shop said due to the fact that those were at an angle, made it easier to align. He also told me that most of the coilover sets he has seen slide left to right, like what your talking about, but the D2's you adjust two things with one movement. The ride is good the alignment is perfect, I can't really complain about anything?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:12 PM
  #139  
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When you say "clicks", do you mean the marks on the little dial or do you literally mean you get a clicking sound. I don't get any clicking sound.

About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.

You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.

Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.

Originally Posted by Larrio
just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.

one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:14 PM
  #140  
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On the 4th gen, mine came with strut mounts.

Originally Posted by UrbanImport
The D2s DO replace the front mounts just not the rear.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:21 PM
  #141  
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I agree totally with Slammed95. If they are at an angle, then camber and caster would have a direct correlation when they shouldn't. You are suppose to able adjust camber without changing the caster.

For example, you want to dial in alot of negative camber at the track.

The correct way: The caster would stay constant while you dial in negative camber.

The wrong way: The more you change camber, the more the caster changes with it.



Originally Posted by slammed95
Well, those people are wrong. Yes, they're at an angle, but they're not supposed to be. If you try to adjust caster by doing this, you're gonna throw off the centering of the wheel in relation to the wheel well.
These are camber plates.
If they work and it doesn't bother you, just leave them like that.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:35 PM
  #142  
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I love it.

Originally Posted by Ammi
Hows the ride 1MAX2NV?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:41 PM
  #143  
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man i want a set of these bad boys already
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:50 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
When you say "clicks", do you mean the marks on the little dial or do you literally mean you get a clicking sound. I don't get any clicking sound.

About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.

You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.

Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.
yea, I mean clicks as in the marks on the dial.

as for the clunking, most of it has gone away. My sponsor TET reduced the pre-load on the springs yesterday night and also tightened that rear spring perch that came loose. I got only 1-2 clunk/pops on a 50 mile drive back to school and it only happened when I was making a u-turn in the early morning with the steering wheel completely locked out.

one thing i've noticed with the d2's in comparison to kyb agx/sprint combo. The d2's take bumps and road imperfections really well in comparison with the agx/sprint, I couldn't take speed bumps before straight on or else the back end would bottom out or land really heavily, even at super low speeds. On the other hand, the d2's behave very differently on highway speeds with dips and holes. The car seems to fly over them and land heavily on all fours (best way i can describe it). Its actually quite uncomfortable at times driving around L.A. freeways
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:51 PM
  #145  
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Someone else please post a pick of the front strut tower under the hood showing the camber plate on 5th Gen max with D2 coilovers. If someone can show me this then I'll agree that I have a bad set of coilovers. I know they're not installed wrong because I've swapped sides and the holes only line up one way.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 05:04 PM
  #146  
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Nope, if you look at the two outer bolts on your strut, they are parallel with the side of your. This would make yours move left to right like your saying. Yours is a 4th Gen right? Ok now look at the holes on mine. The two outer holes are not parallel with the side of the car like yours. I've tried spinning the coilover to make it co in opposite holes, but they are not evenly spaced therefor will only go in one way. Even when you the right one and move it over to the left. Also you talk about a lot of cluncking and popping. I'm not sure why that is mine are quiet except for a little bit of vibration thats transferred through the strut tower. Also where are your dampening settings. Originally I had mine set all the way on "L" thinking that would be the softest. For fun I turned all 1.5 turns from "L" toward "H" and I can't believe how much softer the ride. Took all of the bounce away.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 05:25 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by XeroX
How much longer are these gona be available for this price?




I have some more questions though too if somebody wouldn't mind answering them. I read in one of the other threads that these are aluminum, is that correct? That would be great given the rust concerns of where I live. Is there any part that's made of any other metal? I would also like to confirm that the only other things I would need to install with these are the orange spacers pictured here (part numbers 55338-0M000 and 54329-39U00). Thanks alot.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 06:16 PM
  #148  
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is the 2nd deal still going down?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by Terran




I have some more questions though too if somebody wouldn't mind answering them. I read in one of the other threads that these are aluminum, is that correct? That would be great given the rust concerns of where I live. Is there any part that's made of any other metal? .
they are aluminum yes, but they are anodized purple to provide a coating over the aluminum. I doubt there is anything besides rubber & aluminum off these things
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 04:40 AM
  #150  
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Is there any way of getting dustboots in there?
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 06:06 AM
  #151  
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Hey guys, for the one it interest, I was reading that the D2 can operate in temperature ranging from -5 to 60C, well since I live in Canada and in winter the temperature can go as low as -35C mostly in january and february I'm thinking that in the cold temperature the D2 can be very stiff, so for that reason I'll be waiting next spring before I install them. On another note I was wondering if the camber should be set with a small negative angle ? I would guess so but can anyone light up my light on this, I was told that a little negative camber ajustment can greatly improve handling but can also lead to an uneven wearing of the tire if the angle is too negative ( that seem to make sense but....any thoughs)

Cheers

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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 06:13 AM
  #152  
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Just set the things for full soft in the winter and don't worry about it.

for camber, you can go to about -1.5 without significant tire wear. usually -1 is a good all-around setting for camber.
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 07:21 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by Terran
Is there any way of getting dustboots in there?
there are already dustboots in there
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 07:59 AM
  #154  
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It comes with dustboot and bumpstop build in.

Originally Posted by Terran
Is there any way of getting dustboots in there?
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 08:02 AM
  #155  
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I have the D2 logo facing out on my 4th gen too. skalberti when I first installed the passenger side on the driver side. The camber plate looked just like yours. I knew I had it wrong so I swapped them.



Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:36 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
I have the D2 logo facing out on my 4th gen too. skalberti when I first installed the passenger side on the driver side. The camber plate looked just like yours. I knew I had it wrong so I swapped them.



D2 really should have labeled these left and right. I'm glad you posted this 1max2nv this will keep a lot of others from making the mistake I did. I plan on switching them this weekend and realign on Monday. Man these things ride great. For a car that lowered 2.5" in the front, it doesn't ride much worse than stock. The handling on the other hand is out of this world. The car just eats up the curves.
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:53 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by skalberti
D2 really should have labeled these left and right. I'm glad you posted this 1max2nv this will keep a lot of others from making the mistake I did. I plan on switching them this weekend and realign on Monday. Man these things ride great. For a car that lowered 2.5" in the front, it doesn't ride much worse than stock. The handling on the other hand is out of this world. The car just eats up the curves.
the same pics were posted by slammed95 on the previous page
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:07 AM
  #158  
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hmmm, I had no problem figuring out which side was which........
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 05:17 PM
  #159  
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So you guys don't think the temperature ratings should be worried about. We get sub -5C here too in the winters.

Are struts like illumina's rated similarly or would they be a better choice in colder climates? I really like the idea of not loosing any suspension travel, but I could just go for a conventional system.
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 06:16 PM
  #160  
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Those orange gaskets (spacers) are $15 a piece at the dealer! What a crock of crap. I'm going to make my own out of gasket material like skalberti did. This is when I get the new lower mount. Mine was the one that wasn't machined properly and too narrow to fit the steering knuckle.



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