Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Okay guys, here's what you've been waiting for...



What is it?
Z32 300ZX REAR calipers and rotors to fit 4th and 5th gen Maximas.

Why?
1. To fill up the rear wheels by upgrading from the small factory rotors and
calipers.
2. To correct the F/R brake bias that is problematic when installing most aftermarket brake kits on the front of the car.

How?
For those of you that are familiar with the Z32 brakes, they use an internal
drum-type parking brake, as almost all other high performance brake systems do
now. This makes caliper maintenance and pad changes extremely quick and easy,
but this is also what makes designing a rear brake kit for this car very
challenging. I have designed and built a rear drum-type parking brake to fit
inside the Z32 rotor, and that's what this kit is based upon.

I designed this rear kit as a compliment to my front 300ZX-based brake kit. It
will return the brake bias to within 3% of the factory brake bias when used on
this setup.
Some of the other kits out there (Stillen, Fastbrakes, Precision, etc) will
probably be using different piston sizes in their calipers that will affect
brake bias considerably. Please check with me before purchasing and be ready to
do some measuring of your calipers (or have the part numbers ready for the
calipers so I can look them up.)
If you buy this kit for other front systems, the worst you will have to do is
install a $50 brake bias adjuster from Wilwood or Tilton to make this kit run on
your car. Be very careful the first few times you hit the brakes, until you
have adjusted the bias properly.


How Much, and what do I need?

I have set the price on my parts so that the entire setup should cost you
under $1000 for everything needed to install the kit on the car. I will send you everything needed EXCEPT rear calipers and
brake rotors, which you will be able to purchase from the sources below and come out under $1000 total.

The parts I will supply are the parking brake assemblies (including custom backing plate and bracket), replacement parking brake
cables (your original cables will not work), 6061 aluminum caliper relocation bracket, all fasteners and hardware required for
installation, and custom rear DOT approved stainless steel brake lines made to fit this setup.

The parts you need to supply are 300ZX rotors and calipers, pads, and brake fluid.
Rotors: Suggested places for the rotors are either AutoMax_95 or through my
contacts at iRotors. Feel free to purchase them from any other place you like,
but those are the two I recommend from personal experience. Purchase rear
rotors from a 1990-1996 300ZX.

Calipers: You can find them quite often on Ebay for under $100 a pair. Any
1990-1996 300ZX TT or N/A rear calipers will work- they're all the same. If you purchase
them used, I highly suggest rebuilding them. You can buy a rebuild kit from
Orielly's Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc for under $10.
Many auto parts stores also carry remanufactured calipers for a reasonable cost. In Houston, they are about $100 each without core, $60 each with core.




So what's the total price from BlehmCo?
For the intro period which lasts until Oct 8th., I am lowering the prices
of both front and rear kits!

Rear Kit only:
Regular Price- $720
Intro Price- $670 ($50 off!!)

Front Kit only: (includes 300ZX caliper relocation brackets to fit the 12.6" 2004 Maxima rotor, all mounting hardware and customs SS front lines.)
Front:
Regular Price- $200
Intro Price- $180

Front and Rear Kits:
Regular Price- $920
Intro Price- $800


How do I send money?
To get the ball rolling at the machine shop, I need to cover some pretty major
up-front expenses.
What I'm asking is that you send me $350 up front (which is 1/2 the cost of the
kit after shipping), and when I have all of the parts in stock and ready to
ship, I will ask for the remainder of the money. If you choose to buy a front
and rear kit, I am still only asking $350 up front, and the balance to be paid
before items ship. I will be issuing NO REFUNDS either, as the money will be
completely gone by the time the parts are ready to ship, and I refuse to pay for
you to change your mind.

The reason for doing this is twofold: First, I can cover some of the out-of-
pocket costs on having the parts made- which will be several thousand dollars.
Second, this provides me a ballpark figure of the people who are seriously
interested. I'm sure you have all been in group deals before where 80% of the
"confirmed buyers" backed out at the last minute. If I take money up front, I
have a guarantee that I won't be making 500 kits and only 50 buyers.

Also only for this deal, I am asking that you pay via Money Order only.
I will not be accepting Personal Checks for the simple reason that I don't want
the hassle of a bounced check. I will accept PayPal only if the buyer agrees
to pay an extra 3% to cover PayPal's fees. Paying with a Money Order is
also safer on your end because I am legally obligated to send you something for
your money. If I don't, that's mail fraud and I go to jail. (Thus, you're sure
to get the parts from me because I'm not going to jail for $1000 in stolen
money!)

How long will it take to get my parts?
Once I close the intro pricing (Oct 8th), I will send the machine shop
authorization to produce the parts. It usually takes 10 business days (2
calendar weeks) after that in order for me to receive the parts. Once I have
the parts on hand, I will ask for the remainder of the money.

I need to put some finishing touches on them after I get them from the shop, and
then I will begin to ship them out in the order I received FINAL payments.
Expect to start seeing deliveries about 1 month after the end of the intro pricing.

I think that's about it. If you have any technical questions, please feel free
to post in this thread or email me at tech@mattblehm.com. If you are ready to
buy, please email me at sales@mattblehm.com in order to initiate the purchase.
Please do not send me PMs on this board, as my mailbox is constantly full and I
prefer to only answer the same question once. If it's posted on the forum,
everyone can reap the benefits.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

For those of you that don't remember what the front kit looks like (for comparison purposes), here's a shot of it:


(This is still the same car, but the owner has swapped wheels around since these pics were taken.)

NismoChi

iTrader: (4)

Hey, what about us 3rd gen guys, not that i have money to get that soon.
You 4th/5th gen guys are so luck.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

We have/had a rear BBK, and the best part is that it only costs $70

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Sure, but you're still stuck with the crappy pad selection of the stock calipers. The Z32 calipers have a huge selection of pads and compounds.

Unfortunately, the Z32 rotors won't fit on our 3rd gens due to offset and clearance issues. If they could, you can guarantee that I'd already have them on my car.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

There's a decent amount of pad sections for the 3-gens. Maybe not for the hardcore guys. NismoChi, if you want rear BBKs that use the stock caliper and Z31 rotor, pm me as to not ***** up Matt's for sale.

2kprlmax

iTrader: (16)

Matt

So for the price of the Rear Kit only:
Regular Price- $720
Intro Price- $670 ($50 off!!)

This is what we get
The parts I will supply are the parking brake assemblies (including custom backing plate and bracket), replacement parking brake
cables (your original cables will not work), 6061 aluminum caliper relocation bracket, all fasteners and hardware required for
installation, and custom rear DOT approved stainless steel brake lines made to fit this setup.

And we have to get the capilers and rotors and brake pads correct.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Correct. you supply rotors, calipers, pads, and brake fluid. everything else will be in the box. As I said above with that pricing you should come out right around $1000 for the entire rear kit after you buy all the other stuff.

The way I see it, there's just no need in me buying all of the rotors and pads and such from someone else and being yet another middleman. you can buy them for the same prices I can already, so it'd be a waste of my time and your money to stick me in the middle of it again. So I leave it up to you on where to buy the rotors and pads and such. you pick out something you like that fits and you're done.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Matt...any idea on the brake bias with my AP/Stillen front big brake kit? So $670 for the rear kit WITHOUT rotors and calipers?

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

I would say a upgrade in MC would make sense too. Would a Z MC work?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

1Max, if you can give me some specs on the caliper piston diameters and the rotor diameter, I can do some calculations for you.
In a nutshell, it should help fix the brake bias, but I can't say for certain until I see the piston sizes..

Cutlr7, I see no need in upgrading the master cylinder. the pedal is still VERY firm and doesn't have an issues with running out of fluid anytime soon. See the posts about it in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=326162

(and to specifically answer the question, no. A Z master cylinder won't fit. way too many differences. # of outlet holes, ports are in different directions, all kinds of fun stuff.)

brianw

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm... I'll ICQ you tonight if you're still around. Sounds good to me, my wallet feels lighter already!

WildmanAL

iTrader: (4)

Alright Matt I may just on your GD instead of getting the Cattman headers.

So if I buy the front and rear brakes I will have to also buy:

2K4 front rotors
Z32 rear rotors (90'-96' 300zx)
Z32 rear calipers
front and rear pads
brake fluid

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

matt, here you go:
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/cali...?family=CP5200
Piston Diameters 38.1mm x 2 / 41.3mm x 2
Piston Area 49.5cm²
AP Racing 4 piston aluminum 5200 series caliper, thats the stillen BBK

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Wildmanal, you'll also need the front Z32 calipers as well.. I do not recommend this setup using the stock front caliper relocation bracket. too much rear bias.

Larrio, thanks for the numbers. quick inspection says they're just a hair bigger than the Z32 caliper pistons, but I'll look into it tomorrow and confirm.

WildmanAL

iTrader: (4)

so for $800 I basically get:

front and rear relocation brackets for Z32 calipers
front and rear SS brake lines

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Add to that the rear parking brake assembly that has several custom CNC machined parts in it, new parking brake cables, shoes, and all the other parts required to make the rears work. that's where the money is in the kit..

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The numbers for the Stillen/ AP kit come out to be just about the same as the Z32 setup. one piston is slightly larger, one is slightly smaller, so it almost evens out once you do the math.

JeffesonM

iTrader: (5)

Sorry if this has been mentioned already, but what size is the 300ZX rear rotor?

WildmanAL

iTrader: (4)

Matt it definitly sounds worth it for all the time you've put into these two kits. I'll definitly be sending you the money as Oct 8th gets a little closer. If you would please either post or PM me the info for your contacts on rotors and calipers.

Thanks again,

papasmurf

Is this rear kit a good match up with the AP racing 13" big brake kit. And if not with a brake bias would I be able to make it better.

Bruce

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Jeffeson, the Z rotor is 11.7" factory 4th and 5th gen rotors are 10.9"

Wildmanal, you can purchase the rear calipers from most parts stores for faily cheap, or junkyards or ebay. There are at least 4 sets on ebay right now for under $100, and I think reman calipers are around $100 each at the parts store..

For Rotors, contact either www.iRotors.com or give AutoMax_95 a shout for some Brembos. The ones pictured above are some zinc plated Brembos that The car owner purchased from AutoMax. Since they are just stock brembo rotors for the Z32, they are everywhere out there and relatively cheap.

Bruce, the AP racing kit will be very slightly more front biased than the 12.6" Z32 front setup on Mike's car, (within 1% though), and should work great. if it's got too much rear bias, it's nothing that a tilton or wilwood bias adjuster won't fit with a few simple J-turn stops and some tweaking. You should be within about 3% of the factory front/rear bias after the upgrade, and you're about 12-15% off right now with the AP/stock setup.

papasmurf

Hey thanks Matt that really helps. Thats good to know for the percentages. What is the front to rear ratio. Also is there any down sides to have the bias more to the fron tor the rear other than understeer while braking. Would my stopping distance be better if it was more to the front or what Im not to farmilary with braking characteristics. But it seems like you know your stuff so any help would be great. Thanks

Bruce

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

stock setup is roughly 72% front from my calculations...
with an aftermarket BBK on, it goes to 80-85% front, depending on the kit- and it can get even worse if you put track pads on the front and leave the stockers on the rear. i've seen upwards of 90% when using really grippy pads on the front.

with the rear BBK, it puts it back around 70%- which will greatly shorten stopping distances since the rears are actually doing something.
when you go to the track, put your grippy high temp track pads up front and you're back to 75% front and you don't have to worry about trail braking into corners and the back end coming around. the rears won't overheat, but will still be doing enough work that the rear BBK helps out.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...erformance.htm

Here's an article fron Stop Tech that explains things quite a bit. If you don't feel like reading the whole thing (the top part is pretty boring), scroll down to the last two sections of the paper that talk about how auto manufacturers set up cars to be 5-10% front-biased under ALL conditions (dry, rain, snow, ice, etc) so that the back end never comes loose when you're stomping on the brakes in a turn.

Remember back to when you were a kid riding your bike.. you clamp on the front brake in a turn and you slow down- too hard and you wind up on your face... but when you clamp down the rear brake, the bike woule immediately go into a skid. same thing on cars, only you're dealing with 3000lb and huge tires instead of 30lb and skinny tires.

Also look at the very bottom graphic, showing the various brake system setups and bias numbers used on an Audi S4. note where the factory one is- way to the front. LOTS of room to go to the rear.
Of course, that's all for an Audi, but you cna be rest assured it's not too far away from what Nissan desgned into their brakes. longer stopping distances for slightly more stability.

papasmurf

Wow that is really good info and I really like the fact that there is no trail braking while racing. And thats cool they really seem like a great mod for those interested in stopping power and racing. Thanks Matt.

Bruce

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

..

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

Will we need larger rims to fit there? or will the stock 95-99 SE rims fit these? i know with the Brembo BBK at least 17's are needed to fit the rotor/caliper combination.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Well, considering this mod is pointless unless you have a BBK up front, I would say that you need 17" rims to begin with. this mod WILL fit under most 16" wheels (since they're basically stock Z32 brakes and they fit under the Z32 16" wheels)... but before you buy this kit, you should have a BBK up front as well. whether it's my Z upgrade kit or a Fastbrakes, Precision, Stillen, Jeff92SE, whatever kit.. you need something up front to make this worthwhile.

If you insist on staying with 16" wheels, the fastbrakes 12.2" kit will fit under some 16s (not the stock 4th gen 16s though), and if you can fit the fastbrakes kit on the front, you'll be able to fit this one on the rears.

papasmurf

Hey Matt one more question what is the biggest and best Front Brake kit offered in your opinon. Im just trying to figure out what IM doing with my car.

Thanks
Bruce

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Matt93SE, I am very appreciative of your effort to the Maxima community. Keep it up man!

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Hey Matt,

Here's my BBK... http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...xima&year=2002 Can you give me an idea of what the bias would be before/after your rear BBK?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Bruce, depending on what you're looking for, the absolute BEST kits out there are probably going to be the AP, Brembo, or Wilwood kits using 2-piece rotors. after that, it's any of the kits with the 12-13" 1-piece rotors. performance of all of them is going to be roughly the same, but the big difference is the replacement cost for parts. Brembo and AP are both $$$$$ to replace parts. the Wilwood kits are MUCH cheaper to replace parts, and are cheaper to buy to begin with. the Z kit that I make, I would compare to the 1-piece sets of any of the others.. for competition track use, nothing but a 2-piece will do. for the average daily driver that likes to beat on their car every now and then or take it to the road course once a month, any of the 1-piece kits will be more than you'll ever need.

HNDA ETR, the 2 38mm piston calipers retain nearly identical brake bias (within 1%) to the stock setup. I wouldn't recommend using my rear BBK on your car.

papasmurf

Hey Matt thanks for that info, IM thinking wilwood will be my wepon of choice. But who sells them cause they are not listed on their home page. I havent been able to do too much searching on this topic cause I have really been searching on my tranny and engine issues Im facing.

Bruce

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

fastbrakes and precision brakes both sell them.

If I could get the hats made for a decent price, I'd be doing some kits as well... but more hassles than I want to mess with right now.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Matt... can you tell me the formula that you're using to figure out the bias? i don't understand why my BBK keeps nearly stock bias...

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

look at the total piston area of the calipers on a front corner and a rear corner. look at the rotor diameter as well.. keep in mind that there is also a pressure bias adjustment inside the master cylinder as well (that's why is has separate hoses for front and rear).

If you look at the factory caliper and rotor, it's got nearly the same piston area (note piston AREA, not size) as the SSBC calipers. they use two tiny pistons in the front calipers. the Z caliper and all of the other aftermarket calipers use four pistons that are slightly larger than the SSBC caliper. the rear Z32 caliper actually uses larger pistons in it than the SSBC front caliper does.

there are forumlas out there on how to calculate it, but I've got mine worked into a spreadsheet with a lot of other personal/business info that I don't feel like handing over for the world to see, so I'm not willing to share my calculations.. It would take me longer to redo everything and post than it would to google it and learn how to do it yourself.

WildmanAL

iTrader: (4)

Matt have you gotten any payments yet? I bought some 300zx front calipers from derrick today so I'm sealed in on this deal. I get paid next Monday and whenever my check clears I'll have that $350 in the mail.

Do you have details pics of the rear brake assembly like you have on your site for the fronts?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I've gotten a few payments, so the deal is definitely going through.
I've got some pics on my site somewhere. I'll have to find them and I'll link them here when I get a chance.

NightRider

iTrader: (6)

Bruce, I think Matt's kit may be one of the better ones due to the fact it is very versatile when picking a system that works for you. Most other kits give you one or two options in rotor design. With this kit, many aftermarket rotor variants will fit, making it easier to locate replacements should you need one. Also, you can't beat the availability of pads! Many of the other BBK calipers may have more clamping force than the 300zx calipers, but a good braking system doesn't necessarily mean having the biggest rotors or the most pistons, rather than having a good bias between front and rear. Unlike most other big brake kits, that only offer upgrades for the front, this one keeps the bias very close to stock spec, making it easier to modulate your brakes and offers better performance. Would you rather have 2 large pads stopping your car, of 4?