New Energy Suspension Bushings Intro Sale
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
Actually brian the auto rear and manual rear mounts are the same 3.5" dia regardless of model. It's the auto front mount thats different which is electronically controlled and 4" dia. Which only the gle and se came with. The gxe has the same 3.5"dia front mount. This info applies to the 4th gen for sure i'm not sure about other gens but 5th gens should be the same.
There may be a bit of ambiguity about this. I was under the same impression that you are, but I heard from someone that their rear mount was too big as well (and I don't know what year it was).
I think it can be said that if the mount has an electrical lead to it (meaning that its the adjustable density type of mount that was deployed on the autos) then the hole will be too large. If there is no wiring connection, logic would suggest that the hole will be the right size.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
I have some spare mounts for a 4th gen that will work with es inserts. I'm not sure if there the same as the 5th gen though. I will sell them for $40 shipped if your interested.
These should fit all 95-03 Maximas. I say this because the Place Racing motor mounts (complete units) we sold fit this entire range (VQ30 and VQ35 motors).
BCC
Originally Posted by mjk
hey Brian, you guys dont sell the PR mounts individually, do you? and if you dont, is there anyway to get the whole mount from ES? thanks
The PR mounts aren't available at all anymore, they went out of business. I've asked some of the local Nissan mechanics to set aside any used mounts they have, but I don't think they've accumulated anything yet. If I could get a few on hand, we'd stuff them with the ES bushes and offer them on a core basis, ready to install in the car.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by Cattman
The PR mounts aren't available at all anymore, they went out of business. I've asked some of the local Nissan mechanics to set aside any used mounts they have, but I don't think they've accumulated anything yet. If I could get a few on hand, we'd stuff them with the ES bushes and offer them on a core basis, ready to install in the car.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
What years are you looking for? I will talk to my friend at the dealership and see if they can keep an eye out for them. We would just have to work out shipping if you are interested.
Originally Posted by doublea
Hey Brian, I'm interested in the motor mount for my 2k1. Let me know if you get some. I'm in no rush since my car will be store for the winter until next spring.
We have plenty of all the ES bushing sets for the Maxima in stock right now.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Brian,
What years are you looking for? I will talk to my friend at the dealership and see if they can keep an eye out for them. We would just have to work out shipping if you are interested.
What years are you looking for? I will talk to my friend at the dealership and see if they can keep an eye out for them. We would just have to work out shipping if you are interested.
That would be great. We simply need the motor mounts from any 95-03 Maxima (or 95-99 I30) with a 5- or 6-speed transmission. Of course we'd be more than happy to pay for the shipping.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Yes.
The easiest way to get the stock motor mount inserts out is to burn them. Just buy or rent a cheap canister torch from a hardware store. Be very careful, you should wear safety goggles since there is a pouch of liquid or something in there that will squirt out while it's burning, and beware that it makes a huge mess and smells bad, so you should put something down on the floor and wear old clothes. Then use a hacksaw and/or chisel to get the metal sleeve out.
The easiest way to get the new ES mount inserts in is to either take them to a shop (but most shops won't be able to do it so you will have to hunt and then shell out at least $50 if not $100 or more) OR the best way: use a car as a press. Jack up the car, position the ES bushing on top of the motor mount directly under one of the tires, and use the jack to slowly lower the tire down onto the bushing. Lube it up a little beforehand, and have one person guide it carefully. It will suddenly pop down into the insert. It's really pretty simple.
The easiest way to get the stock motor mount inserts out is to burn them. Just buy or rent a cheap canister torch from a hardware store. Be very careful, you should wear safety goggles since there is a pouch of liquid or something in there that will squirt out while it's burning, and beware that it makes a huge mess and smells bad, so you should put something down on the floor and wear old clothes. Then use a hacksaw and/or chisel to get the metal sleeve out.
The easiest way to get the new ES mount inserts in is to either take them to a shop (but most shops won't be able to do it so you will have to hunt and then shell out at least $50 if not $100 or more) OR the best way: use a car as a press. Jack up the car, position the ES bushing on top of the motor mount directly under one of the tires, and use the jack to slowly lower the tire down onto the bushing. Lube it up a little beforehand, and have one person guide it carefully. It will suddenly pop down into the insert. It's really pretty simple.
Finished installing the CA bushings. Dont be fooled this is one tough and long job. 90% of the time was spent on the infamous pressed in bushings. I torched the rubber out then had to figure a way to remove the metal sleeve the rubber was pressed in with. I used a hack saw to remove a 1/4 inch section of it and then tapped the rest out with a hammer and screw driver. The ES Bushings were cake to press in with 2 peices of wood and a c-clamp.
I am still talking with my buddies at the dealership about motor mounts.
I am still talking with my buddies at the dealership about motor mounts.
Originally Posted by VQuick
Yes.
The easiest way to get the new ES mount inserts in is to either take them to a shop (but most shops won't be able to do it so you will have to hunt and then shell out at least $50 if not $100 or more) OR the best way: use a car as a press. Jack up the car, position the ES bushing on top of the motor mount directly under one of the tires, and use the jack to slowly lower the tire down onto the bushing. Lube it up a little beforehand, and have one person guide it carefully. It will suddenly pop down into the insert. It's really pretty simple.
The easiest way to get the new ES mount inserts in is to either take them to a shop (but most shops won't be able to do it so you will have to hunt and then shell out at least $50 if not $100 or more) OR the best way: use a car as a press. Jack up the car, position the ES bushing on top of the motor mount directly under one of the tires, and use the jack to slowly lower the tire down onto the bushing. Lube it up a little beforehand, and have one person guide it carefully. It will suddenly pop down into the insert. It's really pretty simple.
BCC
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Finished installing the CA bushings. Dont be fooled this is one tough and long job. 90% of the time was spent on the infamous pressed in bushings. I torched the rubber out then had to figure a way to remove the metal sleeve the rubber was pressed in with. I used a hack saw to remove a 1/4 inch section of it and then tapped the rest out with a hammer and screw driver. The ES Bushings were cake to press in with 2 peices of wood and a c-clamp.
I am still talking with my buddies at the dealership about motor mounts.
I am still talking with my buddies at the dealership about motor mounts.
Yeah, using the car as a press is a great idea, don't remember where I read about it but it saved me a lot of time and money.
would any of you guys mind filling me in on the sizes required to remove the CA. i'm assuming you removed it completely off the car to do the whole job.
also, you said you used the car as a press, which i understand, but how. the bushings are perpendicular to the car. did you raise the car all the way up just to fit the CA parallel or am i just not imagining the picture right.
also, you said you used the car as a press, which i understand, but how. the bushings are perpendicular to the car. did you raise the car all the way up just to fit the CA parallel or am i just not imagining the picture right.
Originally Posted by PoLo
also, you said you used the car as a press, which i understand, but how. the bushings are perpendicular to the car. did you raise the car all the way up just to fit the CA parallel or am i just not imagining the picture right.
Originally Posted by VQuick
I was talking about the motor mounts only since they're big and impossible to press in by hand. The mounts, once removed, easily fit sideways under the tire with the bushing set on top of it. You don't need to press in the ES LCA bushings, you can do that by hand and/or with a C-clamp.
36mm ($6.99 at Sears for the one socket, grrr), 27mm, 22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, and 10mm (for the ABS bracket on the strut). I think that's it. 5th gen is probably the same as 4th gen but possibly a few differences. Lotta bolts. You have to remove the front wheels, brakes (tie the caliper to the spring with a zip tie so you don't stretch the line), sway bar nuts, either the outer tie rod end or the ball joint (can use pickle fork on the tie rod end but a 2-jaw bearing puller is better), and then the LCA bolts themselves.
And Nick's got a nice write-up here: http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15
And Nick's got a nice write-up here: http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15
Originally Posted by VQuick
I hacked and chiseled for almost an hour on that metal sleeve. What a waste of time. All you have to do is take an appropriately sized socket (26mm or so, to match the diameter of the metal sleeve) and whack it a few times with a hammer. Sleeve came right out, in about 10 seconds! I did this with the bushing already burned out and the sleeve chopped up a bit; it would probably be a bit harder with the bushing still in there but I'm going to attempt it on the other side.
Yeah, using the car as a press is a great idea, don't remember where I read about it but it saved me a lot of time and money.
Yeah, using the car as a press is a great idea, don't remember where I read about it but it saved me a lot of time and money.
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Took me all of five minutes to have the metal sleeve out with the hack saw method. I tried using a 27mm socket, but no luck. My chassis has 213k miles on it so stuff was pretty stuck together. Also I didnt completely remove the CA. I unbolted everything but the ball joint since I didnt have the 36mm socket.
Originally Posted by PoLo
so i take it you did all the work UNDER the car, correct? i also dont' want to remove the ball joint, so i'm considering doing it all underneath. your thoughts?
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Correct. I did all the work under the car. I dont blame you for not wanting to remove the ball joint since its a little bit more work. It wasnt that difficult to do the work under the car. Banging out the sleeve with a socket and hammer will be much much much harder with the CA still connected to the car though. I still think the hack saw method is the way to go. Just be careful not to saw into the control arm!!!
i'm gonna go look at pictures of this and see if i have any other questions.
Originally Posted by Cattman
There is a 22mm bushing available for the 95-99, by Pedder Suspension of Australia. I have a pair in front of me. We haven't stocked them yet because we've been busy with other things. I also wanted to figure out the demand and what ES is going to do before committing to being a distributor, because their bushings are all more expensive than the ES bushings (when you compare the ones they both make). In addition to the 22mm bushings, they make several bushings sets (mostly for the rear suspension) for the 95-99 that ES does not make at all.
The Pedders bushings are more expensive due to the weakness of the US$, but they encourage a comparison with the ES bushings - I have no basis for knowing that they're superior to the ES bushings, but I've met their engineers and they claim that they perform better, so who knows. I can say that the urethane compound seems to be harder on the Pedders FSB bushings.
front control arm bushings - $60 (ES price is $30)
front swaybar mount bushings - $33 (ES price is $10)
front swaybar link bushings - $17 (ES price is $8)
front alignment bushings* (slotted to allow caster adjustment, I think) - $75
rear swaybar link bushings* - $33
rear swaybar mount bushings* - $13
rear control arm bushings* - $100
rear trailing arm bushings* - $65
I do not have any of these Pedders bushings in quantity, but I do have one set of each for the A32 Maxima SE (22mm FSB frame bushings included). I will sell them at a discounted price to someone willing to install them all, note any fitment issues, and if they work out well, write up the result for publishing on Maxima.org. This requires someone who really knows suspensions well, is proficient at running their car through the twisties, and can do a decent writeup of the installation and road test. They should also live somewhere that isn't too cold right now, both for road conditions and the stiffness of the mounts.
Write to me via email or PM if interested, I'll have to think about a price, but would be around 35-40% off those prices.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
The Pedders bushings are more expensive due to the weakness of the US$, but they encourage a comparison with the ES bushings - I have no basis for knowing that they're superior to the ES bushings, but I've met their engineers and they claim that they perform better, so who knows. I can say that the urethane compound seems to be harder on the Pedders FSB bushings.
front control arm bushings - $60 (ES price is $30)
front swaybar mount bushings - $33 (ES price is $10)
front swaybar link bushings - $17 (ES price is $8)
front alignment bushings* (slotted to allow caster adjustment, I think) - $75
rear swaybar link bushings* - $33
rear swaybar mount bushings* - $13
rear control arm bushings* - $100
rear trailing arm bushings* - $65
I do not have any of these Pedders bushings in quantity, but I do have one set of each for the A32 Maxima SE (22mm FSB frame bushings included). I will sell them at a discounted price to someone willing to install them all, note any fitment issues, and if they work out well, write up the result for publishing on Maxima.org. This requires someone who really knows suspensions well, is proficient at running their car through the twisties, and can do a decent writeup of the installation and road test. They should also live somewhere that isn't too cold right now, both for road conditions and the stiffness of the mounts.
Write to me via email or PM if interested, I'll have to think about a price, but would be around 35-40% off those prices.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
rear swaybar link bushings* - $33
rear swaybar mount bushings* - $13
rear control arm bushings* - $100
rear trailing arm bushings* - $65
I will install them on a 1997 Infiniti I30t. All my front bushings (sans the motor mount bushings) were recently changed to Energy Suspension bushings after the CV shafts died
. Let me know if you're interested and where to send the $$$ and what discount you decided upon (PM or my home e-mail). I'll complete a write up with pictures after the install. Thank you Brian. -Sloppy Snood
That sounds good, I'll write to you directly by email.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by Sloppy Snood
Brian - I am willing to test the Pedder's rear bushings you have listed for the 95-99 Maximas. Specifically, I would like to test the following bushings:
rear swaybar link bushings* - $33
rear swaybar mount bushings* - $13
rear control arm bushings* - $100
rear trailing arm bushings* - $65
I will install them on a 1997 Infiniti I30t. All my front bushings (sans the motor mount bushings) were recently changed to Energy Suspension bushings after the CV shafts died . Let me know if you're interested and where to send the $$$ and what discount you decided upon (PM or my home e-mail). I'll complete a write up with pictures after the install. Thank you Brian. -Sloppy Snood
rear swaybar link bushings* - $33
rear swaybar mount bushings* - $13
rear control arm bushings* - $100
rear trailing arm bushings* - $65
I will install them on a 1997 Infiniti I30t. All my front bushings (sans the motor mount bushings) were recently changed to Energy Suspension bushings after the CV shafts died
. Let me know if you're interested and where to send the $$$ and what discount you decided upon (PM or my home e-mail). I'll complete a write up with pictures after the install. Thank you Brian. -Sloppy Snood
Need Cattman Mailing Address for Pedder's Payment
Originally Posted by Cattman
That sounds good, I'll write to you directly by email.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
-Sloppy Snood :attention
Assuming this deal is still going... I'm wanting to get all the bushings availiable for a 98, sans the motor mounts, I was curious though, can you get the end link bushings that Courtesy Nissan sells? The ones that you need 4 of? I would rather be able to order those with the rest of the bushings directly from you, same price as Courtesy is fine. Let me know, thanks.
Originally Posted by paultyler_82
Assuming this deal is still going... I'm wanting to get all the bushings availiable for a 98, sans the motor mounts, I was curious though, can you get the end link bushings that Courtesy Nissan sells? The ones that you need 4 of? I would rather be able to order those with the rest of the bushings directly from you, same price as Courtesy is fine. Let me know, thanks.
We've increased prices slightly on some of the kits, but just a dollar or two. We sell the 4 endlink bushings you mention as a set, part #ES4803, for $6.99.
Give us a call at 520.575.6195 (new #) on Monday, we'll be glad to fix you up.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by Cattman
That sounds good, I'll write to you directly by email.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
My feedback
Well, after months of them just sitting around, I finally installed the urethane motor mounts. All that has to be said is "if ya still have the same 10-6 yr old rubber mounts, GET THESE URETHANE INSERTS".
-They make the drivetrain feel alot steadier. I dont have to slip the clutch into 2nd for example, just let go the clutch and there's no rocking at all. You get better feedback through the clutch and accelerator pedal.
-It DOES make it easier to get into 1st gear, EVEN on a roll (slow of course). The shifter itself feels more percise.
-Wheelhop. I tried it at 2 RPMs. 1st I did it at my normal launch rpm of 1500; it was "clean peelin" and no hop at all. I have to get used to them so I can
grip and not peel, but it does make it more predictable. 2nd, for the heck of it I tried it at 5k rpm... yea that hopped a little, but still grabbed. And that hop was CONSIDERABLY less than what I used to get with rubber mounts launchin just off idle, so this is an incredible improvement.
-Vibration increase is irrelevant to me. Its not bad at all. The only time I feel it is at idle once its warmed up and sitting around 720-800rpm. But I like it, makes the car feel mean
Brian thanks a million for having put out these urethane parts. I'll be ordering a set of CA bushings soon... due to a p/s leak dripping right on the control arm I'm sure its gonna need changing.
-They make the drivetrain feel alot steadier. I dont have to slip the clutch into 2nd for example, just let go the clutch and there's no rocking at all. You get better feedback through the clutch and accelerator pedal.
-It DOES make it easier to get into 1st gear, EVEN on a roll (slow of course). The shifter itself feels more percise.
-Wheelhop. I tried it at 2 RPMs. 1st I did it at my normal launch rpm of 1500; it was "clean peelin" and no hop at all. I have to get used to them so I can
grip and not peel, but it does make it more predictable. 2nd, for the heck of it I tried it at 5k rpm... yea that hopped a little, but still grabbed. And that hop was CONSIDERABLY less than what I used to get with rubber mounts launchin just off idle, so this is an incredible improvement.
-Vibration increase is irrelevant to me. Its not bad at all. The only time I feel it is at idle once its warmed up and sitting around 720-800rpm. But I like it, makes the car feel mean
Brian thanks a million for having put out these urethane parts. I'll be ordering a set of CA bushings soon... due to a p/s leak dripping right on the control arm I'm sure its gonna need changing.
To add my impressions of the ES motor mounts, I noticed them being very stiff right away. At warm idle the car vibrated like CRAZY. It was like sitting in one of those electric massage chairs. The slop in the drivetrain (i.e., the jerk when you get on or get off the gas in gear) was gone though and I was glad about that.
However, after maybe 50 miles of driving, the bushings really seemed to soften up, permanently. The vibration at warm idle is definitely there but it's entirely tolerable. When starting in first gear now, the car really lets you know when the RPMs drop too low with some serious vibrations, but hey, that just makes you a better driver. Unfortunately, with the bushings softening up the slop in the drivetrain came back! I don't know if it's any better than stock now. Maybe slightly. It's disappointing since eliminating the slop was the main reason I wanted the motor mounts.
FYI, my stock rubber bushings and motor mounts were all in fine shape when I removed them, so I have to state my opinion that most of the improvements people see when installing polyurethane bushings come from people whose original bushings were in bad shape. Still, if you need to replace your bushings, ES is the way to go since they're more durable and cheaper than getting Nissan replacements.
However, after maybe 50 miles of driving, the bushings really seemed to soften up, permanently. The vibration at warm idle is definitely there but it's entirely tolerable. When starting in first gear now, the car really lets you know when the RPMs drop too low with some serious vibrations, but hey, that just makes you a better driver. Unfortunately, with the bushings softening up the slop in the drivetrain came back! I don't know if it's any better than stock now. Maybe slightly. It's disappointing since eliminating the slop was the main reason I wanted the motor mounts.
FYI, my stock rubber bushings and motor mounts were all in fine shape when I removed them, so I have to state my opinion that most of the improvements people see when installing polyurethane bushings come from people whose original bushings were in bad shape. Still, if you need to replace your bushings, ES is the way to go since they're more durable and cheaper than getting Nissan replacements.
Brian may not be able to reply back soon so here you go.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Please search for motor mount threads before installing them it will save you some time and fustration.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Please search for motor mount threads before installing them it will save you some time and fustration.
For the one it may interest, I have an auto 2k1 and bought the ES bushing from Cattman a while ago. I took the engine mount out and brought it to a local welding shop owned by my friend, he welded a metal ring inside the stock mount so the ES bushing could fit in perfectly. He charged me 75$ to do both engine mount. Just to recall that the ES bushing doesn't fit on the engine mount of a 2k or 2k1 with auto tranny, the mount have to be modified the way I explained.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 417
From: NJ
Brian may not be able to reply back soon so here you go.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Please search for motor mount threads before installing them it will save you some time and fustration.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Please search for motor mount threads before installing them it will save you some time and fustration.
One in particular I should be looking at? I want to order these as a replacement- The ones I got back in 2006 seemed to have worn out.. Heat from the exhaust took it's toll I think.
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