Any interest in an O2 simulator group deal?
installed mine today.. put 100 miles on the car so far and about 6 key cycles..
still no MIL yet, but the not ready indicators are still lit as well.
I watched the O2 voltages with my scanner, and it just switches between 0V and 0.81V every few seconds... so the ECU still thinks there is a sensor there.
it also specifically says in the install instructions NOT to disconnect the O2 heater wire and to leave the O2 connected.. just as an addition to the bit of discussion above.
still no MIL yet, but the not ready indicators are still lit as well.
I watched the O2 voltages with my scanner, and it just switches between 0V and 0.81V every few seconds... so the ECU still thinks there is a sensor there.
it also specifically says in the install instructions NOT to disconnect the O2 heater wire and to leave the O2 connected.. just as an addition to the bit of discussion above.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
installed mine today.. put 100 miles on the car so far and about 6 key cycles..
still no MIL yet, but the not ready indicators are still lit as well.
I watched the O2 voltages with my scanner, and it just switches between 0V and 0.81V every few seconds... so the ECU still thinks there is a sensor there.
it also specifically says in the install instructions NOT to disconnect the O2 heater wire and to leave the O2 connected.. just as an addition to the bit of discussion above.
still no MIL yet, but the not ready indicators are still lit as well.
I watched the O2 voltages with my scanner, and it just switches between 0V and 0.81V every few seconds... so the ECU still thinks there is a sensor there.
it also specifically says in the install instructions NOT to disconnect the O2 heater wire and to leave the O2 connected.. just as an addition to the bit of discussion above.
Which O2 did you use the simulator for?
the rear sensor on my 240 (OBD-II)..
I gutted the precat a year ago and it took6 months for the CEL to come on. when it finally did, I couldn't get rid of it.
so far so good.. added another 50 miles on it Sat and still no CEL. I haven't checked the ready status on it yet, but it should be getting close to having all the ready indicators set.
I gutted the precat a year ago and it took6 months for the CEL to come on. when it finally did, I couldn't get rid of it.
so far so good.. added another 50 miles on it Sat and still no CEL. I haven't checked the ready status on it yet, but it should be getting close to having all the ready indicators set.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 305
From: New York
Hey Brian, I think I need one for my rear O2. Once I get headers/y-pipe to match with my catback I'll just plug the simulator in so as not to have to deal with that sensor when goes bad down the road. Where do you wire the simulator chip in? Do I need a soldering iron? I have a 97 i30. I got paypal ready. Thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by L0R1DA
Hey Brian, I think I need one for my rear O2. Once I get headers/y-pipe to match with my catback I'll just plug the simulator in so as not to have to deal with that sensor when goes bad down the road. Where do you wire the simulator chip in? Do I need a soldering iron? I have a 97 i30. I got paypal ready. Thanks in advance.
Sorry it took a few days to run across this. Its best to wire the simulator in above where the secondary O2 plugs into the harness because you've got color coded wires above the plug, but not below it. Fortunately the part comes with a wiring diagram, I'm not an expert on this. Its my understanding that O2 wiring is best soldered. We'll keep an eye out for your payment if you haven't ordered already.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by Spin20
still available??? how much shipped to 10570?
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
You will still need to keep the factory sensor- whether it's in the pipe or not, you'll need to keep it somewhere in the engine bay, hooked up.
because the O2 is heated, the ECU looks for that load for the heater and knows when its gone. it will throw a CEL if the heater circuit is disconnected..
the O2 sim is pretty simple to install.. you just tap into +12V power and ground, and then cut the incoming wire off your O2 sensor and substitute one of the yellow wires on the sim for it. (there are two, for cars with dual exhaust/rear o2 sensors). the second wire you just cap off to prevent it shorting on anything. so the only wire you actually remove from the O2 sensor itself is the signal input wire. the power, ground, and heater ckt wires you all leave in place on the sensor.
It's all spelled out very clearly in the instructions. If you can swap speakers or install a head unit in your car, you can do this.
took me about 15 minutes to install. very easy. my CEL has been off since I installed it, but I haven't even driven it enough for the OBD-II tests to show a full system ready yet.. I don't know whether this is preventing it from showing ready or if it's because I simply haven't driven that much yet.
because the O2 is heated, the ECU looks for that load for the heater and knows when its gone. it will throw a CEL if the heater circuit is disconnected..
the O2 sim is pretty simple to install.. you just tap into +12V power and ground, and then cut the incoming wire off your O2 sensor and substitute one of the yellow wires on the sim for it. (there are two, for cars with dual exhaust/rear o2 sensors). the second wire you just cap off to prevent it shorting on anything. so the only wire you actually remove from the O2 sensor itself is the signal input wire. the power, ground, and heater ckt wires you all leave in place on the sensor.
It's all spelled out very clearly in the instructions. If you can swap speakers or install a head unit in your car, you can do this.
took me about 15 minutes to install. very easy. my CEL has been off since I installed it, but I haven't even driven it enough for the OBD-II tests to show a full system ready yet.. I don't know whether this is preventing it from showing ready or if it's because I simply haven't driven that much yet.
Thanks for that, Matt, excellent summary!
Brian
Brian
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
You will still need to keep the factory sensor- whether it's in the pipe or not, you'll need to keep it somewhere in the engine bay, hooked up.
because the O2 is heated, the ECU looks for that load for the heater and knows when its gone. it will throw a CEL if the heater circuit is disconnected..
the O2 sim is pretty simple to install.. you just tap into +12V power and ground, and then cut the incoming wire off your O2 sensor and substitute one of the yellow wires on the sim for it. (there are two, for cars with dual exhaust/rear o2 sensors). the second wire you just cap off to prevent it shorting on anything. so the only wire you actually remove from the O2 sensor itself is the signal input wire. the power, ground, and heater ckt wires you all leave in place on the sensor.
It's all spelled out very clearly in the instructions. If you can swap speakers or install a head unit in your car, you can do this.
took me about 15 minutes to install. very easy. my CEL has been off since I installed it, but I haven't even driven it enough for the OBD-II tests to show a full system ready yet.. I don't know whether this is preventing it from showing ready or if it's because I simply haven't driven that much yet.
because the O2 is heated, the ECU looks for that load for the heater and knows when its gone. it will throw a CEL if the heater circuit is disconnected..
the O2 sim is pretty simple to install.. you just tap into +12V power and ground, and then cut the incoming wire off your O2 sensor and substitute one of the yellow wires on the sim for it. (there are two, for cars with dual exhaust/rear o2 sensors). the second wire you just cap off to prevent it shorting on anything. so the only wire you actually remove from the O2 sensor itself is the signal input wire. the power, ground, and heater ckt wires you all leave in place on the sensor.
It's all spelled out very clearly in the instructions. If you can swap speakers or install a head unit in your car, you can do this.
took me about 15 minutes to install. very easy. my CEL has been off since I installed it, but I haven't even driven it enough for the OBD-II tests to show a full system ready yet.. I don't know whether this is preventing it from showing ready or if it's because I simply haven't driven that much yet.
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Has mine been shipped?
These are really small and light, so they go into a padded envelope and are sent via first class mail - they can take 5-6 days to get to some parts of the country from AZ.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by jac121479
Mr Catts
has my simulator been shipped???
has my simulator been shipped???
Hi,
I believe that we've shipped everything that has been ordered, but if you want to check on your order specifically you'll need to contact us directly by email or phone. 1. I'm not sure who you are based on your forum name, and 2. its the sort of thing that's better discussed off-line.
We send these via first class mail, so it can take up to 8 days to arrive.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
1 question, My current setup is the stock y pipe(i'm CALI spec). I have a rear 02 sensor code. I plan on replacing the Ypipe soon eliminating the precats. Will this change the code if lets say my precat isn't working properly, and then I compltely eliminate it? I'm pretty sure it wont change anything code wise but Just a question. I think I may be ordering one of these.
Originally Posted by Cattman
Hi,
I believe that we've shipped everything that has been ordered, but if you want to check on your order specifically you'll need to contact us directly by email or phone. 1. I'm not sure who you are based on your forum name, and 2. its the sort of thing that's better discussed off-line.
We send these via first class mail, so it can take up to 8 days to arrive.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
I believe that we've shipped everything that has been ordered, but if you want to check on your order specifically you'll need to contact us directly by email or phone. 1. I'm not sure who you are based on your forum name, and 2. its the sort of thing that's better discussed off-line.
We send these via first class mail, so it can take up to 8 days to arrive.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by NAPhi_Shift
is this deal still good?
Sure is. Its not really a "deal" anymore, we just regularly sell the O2 Sim for this price, its quite a popular part.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by maximabebe
I'm 99 SE-L California spec. Am I correct in believing that I only need 1 O2 simulator if I plan on a fed spec swap? I prefer a fed spec y pipe.
No matter what the circumstances, you only need one O2 simulator. But since the Fed-spec cars only have one secondary O2 sensor, I want to make sure you understand that the simulator only simulates the signal from the secondary O2 sensor(s) (one on the Fed-spec, just behind the cat, and two on the CA/NLEV-spec, both in the y-pipe), not the primary O2 sensors (that screw into the manifolds). There are no simulators that replace the primary O2 sensors.
You probably have perfectly good reasons, but I wonder why you are swapping to a Fed-spec engine (maybe you're just talking about changing those emissions parts). There were experiments done in '99 when the CA/NLEV cars first came out - replacing the front manifold/pre-cat/y-pipe assembly on the CA/NLEV with Fed-spec parts - and it only gained 1-2 hp. If you're actually swapping the entire engine, why not just drop in a VQ35DE?
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
I recently bought the cali spec 99 SE-L but im having trouble finding a good cali spec y pipe and do not have the cash readily avail for a new one. However, I DO have a fed spec y pipe and a fed spec front exhaust manifold.
Originally Posted by maximabebe
I recently bought the cali spec 99 SE-L but im having trouble finding a good cali spec y pipe and do not have the cash readily avail for a new one. However, I DO have a fed spec y pipe and a fed spec front exhaust manifold.
OK, that makes sense then. You just need to fool your ECU into thinking that nothing has changed, and one simulator will do the trick for both of your secondary sensors (your primary sensors will screw into the y-pipe and you can put the secondaries anywhere but they stay wired in).
Now the sims are available, the "Cali-to-Fed" transformation really isn't that big of a job... I used to think it wasn't worth the trouble, but you can buy a manifold for $25-35, and the sim is $28, so with all the shipping, etc. you could do the parts for about $75 (+ y-pipe) and the front manifold R&R isn't all that big a deal from underneath. There's not supposed to be much of a HP gain, but it would be nice to have the symmetry of no pre-cats front and rear. [I'll note that you could accomplish the same thing without the sim by extending both secondary O2 sensor harnesses back beyond the primary cat, welding two O2 sensor ports into the b-pipe behind the cat, and screwing them in there, but splicing-in the sim is a lot easier.]
Anyway, we've got what you need, give us a call next week.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by philzaga
hey are you still doing the GD? if so, how many O2 sims do i need to get rid of a check engine light for O2 sensors? i got a y-pipe, test pipe, and full cat-back. thanks.
This started out as sort of a group deal, but we sell the O2 simulators regularly for $28 (shipped) now, and we have plenty in stock. One simulator creates a replacement signal for one or two secondary O2 sensors. If you have a car with CA/NLEV emissions, this will substitute for either or both of the secondary O2 sensors that are screwed into the y-pipe. If your 2000 has Federal emissions, the simulator will substitue for the one secondary sensor that's screwed in behind the main cat. Whichever version you have, the O2 sensors need to stay in the car (though not necessarily in their original positions, just wired into the circuit) and there's a wiring diagram that illustrates how it all works.
A few people have tried to order these to replace bad primary O2 sensors (the ones that are screwed into the exhaust manifolds) but that's not what the Sims are for, and they won't work. If your primary O2 went bad, you wouldn't want to use a simulator - its straight to the Nissan parts counter.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
