J&S Electronics Ultra SafeGuard Group Deal
#1
J&S Electronics Ultra SafeGuard Group Deal
The group buy for the J&S Electronics Ultra SafeGuard for the distributorless ignition system equipped Maxima is ready to go. We need ten buyers to get a ten percent discount. The normal price for the Ultra SafeGuard is $525.00, the group deal pricing will be $472.50 with free shipping! If less than ten orders are received I may be able to get J&S to prorate the discount to still offer us favorable pricing. The ten percent discount will also apply to the Dual Monitor Knock and Air/Fuel gauge from J&S.
The group buy will close on July 24th. I will handle the transaction for J&S so all orders for the group deal need to be placed through me. Payment must be received by me no later than July 24th. I can accept money orders only at this time, as I do not have a paypal account. If you would like to arrange another method of payment please contact me directly. J&S will ship units within one week of receiving payment from me, which should be August 1st.
J&S will furnish GM Weatherpack connectors, wire, brass “T” fitting for vacuum/boost line tap and other miscellaneous connectors for instillation. Units will be calibrated to work with stock knock sensor. All units will be identical, six cylinder, three channel, Nissan "smart coil" driver. Boost retard start point infinitely adjustable from 0 to 10 PSI. Boost retard rate will infinitely adjustable from 0 to 2 degrees per pound of boost. Nitrous retard enabled by Aux wire, 0, 2°, 4°, or 6° selectable by switches 3 and 4.
Feel free to post any questions here, and I will try to answer them. I will also invite John from J&S Electronics to join in to help with some of the more technical questions.
For Pictures and Docs Click Here
Some threads with info on the J&S
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=122775
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=128543
Payments Recieved...
Y2KevSE (2 Ultra SafeGuards and 2 Monitors)
turbo97SE (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Chunger (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Beau B. (1 Ultra Safeguard) (whats your nick name?)
coolkids1979 (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
joaquink (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
bosco500 (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Delio (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Backed out...
Supia (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
The group buy will close on July 24th. I will handle the transaction for J&S so all orders for the group deal need to be placed through me. Payment must be received by me no later than July 24th. I can accept money orders only at this time, as I do not have a paypal account. If you would like to arrange another method of payment please contact me directly. J&S will ship units within one week of receiving payment from me, which should be August 1st.
J&S will furnish GM Weatherpack connectors, wire, brass “T” fitting for vacuum/boost line tap and other miscellaneous connectors for instillation. Units will be calibrated to work with stock knock sensor. All units will be identical, six cylinder, three channel, Nissan "smart coil" driver. Boost retard start point infinitely adjustable from 0 to 10 PSI. Boost retard rate will infinitely adjustable from 0 to 2 degrees per pound of boost. Nitrous retard enabled by Aux wire, 0, 2°, 4°, or 6° selectable by switches 3 and 4.
Feel free to post any questions here, and I will try to answer them. I will also invite John from J&S Electronics to join in to help with some of the more technical questions.
For Pictures and Docs Click Here
Some threads with info on the J&S
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=122775
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=128543
Payments Recieved...
Y2KevSE (2 Ultra SafeGuards and 2 Monitors)
turbo97SE (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Chunger (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Beau B. (1 Ultra Safeguard) (whats your nick name?)
coolkids1979 (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
joaquink (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
bosco500 (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Delio (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
Backed out...
Supia (1 Ultra SafeGuard 1 Monitor)
#5
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
For 10 units $179.10
For 10 units $179.10
If the GD will close by the 24th, then how will we know how much to send you if 10 orders are not meet? I'm a trouble making aren't I?
Originally posted by Turbo97GXE
typical rice boy question :-D
typical rice boy question :-D
#6
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
If the GD will close by the 24th, then how will we know how much to send you if 10 orders are not meet? I'm a trouble making aren't I?
If the GD will close by the 24th, then how will we know how much to send you if 10 orders are not meet? I'm a trouble making aren't I?
#7
Where would you hook up the Nitrous Aux line at? Also with this how much more Nitrous could you run than with it. I know that our injectors can't handle too much pressure so pretty much anything over a 100 shot on a dry kit is out of the question, right? To get around this could you just run a super duper high bottle pressure, like 1500 psi? Thanks and good price too.
#9
Originally posted by turbo97SE
I am very interested in this! I need to decide between this and the aquamist now! Damn!
By the way, good job Matt! Thanks for this!
I am very interested in this! I need to decide between this and the aquamist now! Damn!
By the way, good job Matt! Thanks for this!
Matt, please put two orders on your list (2 SafeGuards and 2 gauges).
#10
I will most likly get one as well...but I cannot say for sure at this moment. im 80% sure I will get one, permitting I have the cash before time runs out. :-/
..and yes, please elaborate on the nitrous applications and J&S Electronics Safeguard. What concerns does this box address with respect to the use of N20 in a VQ engine?
..and yes, please elaborate on the nitrous applications and J&S Electronics Safeguard. What concerns does this box address with respect to the use of N20 in a VQ engine?
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Get the retard box instead.
Matt, please put two orders on your list (2 SafeGuards and 2 gauges).
Get the retard box instead.
Matt, please put two orders on your list (2 SafeGuards and 2 gauges).
#12
Originally posted by matt calder
Where would you hook up the Nitrous Aux line at? Also with this how much more Nitrous could you run than with it. I know that our injectors can't handle too much pressure so pretty much anything over a 100 shot on a dry kit is out of the question, right? To get around this could you just run a super duper high bottle pressure, like 1500 psi? Thanks and good price too.
Where would you hook up the Nitrous Aux line at? Also with this how much more Nitrous could you run than with it. I know that our injectors can't handle too much pressure so pretty much anything over a 100 shot on a dry kit is out of the question, right? To get around this could you just run a super duper high bottle pressure, like 1500 psi? Thanks and good price too.
For timing control the J&S would be able to handle it. It does come down to fuel pressure and stock fuel injector flow. I'd imagine that if you could fuel it, a 150hp progressive shot is doable. You may need a to use somthing like the Fields Fuel Controller to get the injectors to be open more so the higher fuel pressure can flow more fuel. The best way to do 100hp and over would be a direct port system. Contact me via e-mail if you want me to elaborate.
#14
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iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Standard 2-1/6" size. I got a single pod and mounted it above my dual pod.
Standard 2-1/6" size. I got a single pod and mounted it above my dual pod.
just wondering if you have a recommendation for how much retard we should set it to and starting at what psi. Should we just experiment? It may be dependent on where we start to detonate which can depend on a number of things.
I'll probably set mine at 1 degree of retard starting at 10 psi? Wonder how much boost I can run then. I am at 12 psi and the EGT is HHHHOOOTT when it is >100F out.
#15
Originally posted by turbo97SE
hey Matt
just wondering if you have a recommendation for how much retard we should set it to and starting at what psi. Should we just experiment? It may be dependent on where we start to detonate which can depend on a number of things.
I'll probably set mine at 1 degree of retard starting at 10 psi? Wonder how much boost I can run then. I am at 12 psi and the EGT is HHHHOOOTT when it is >100F out.
hey Matt
just wondering if you have a recommendation for how much retard we should set it to and starting at what psi. Should we just experiment? It may be dependent on where we start to detonate which can depend on a number of things.
I'll probably set mine at 1 degree of retard starting at 10 psi? Wonder how much boost I can run then. I am at 12 psi and the EGT is HHHHOOOTT when it is >100F out.
One by product of ignition timing retard is increased EGT's, while testing the unit using a full 20 degrees of retard I hit 880c a few times. This is not the same as hitting 880c with out retard its purely a function of the timing retard. It does put more heat on the exhaust valves and should not be done for extended preiods of time, but for 1/4 mile runs or other sprints it is fine.
#16
nitrous retard
Connect the "Aux" wire to the plus side of the nitrous solenoid. The other side of the nitrous solenoid goes to ground.
The plus side of the solenoid should also be connected to the nitrous relay.
With this arrangement, the "Aux" pin will be at zero volts until the nitrous is turned on. At turn on, the "Aux" pin will see 12 volts, and the software will retard by the selected amount.
If the "Aux' pin is left open, an internal pullup resistor turns on the retard. In this case, set the switches for zero degrees nitrous retard.
The plus side of the solenoid should also be connected to the nitrous relay.
With this arrangement, the "Aux" pin will be at zero volts until the nitrous is turned on. At turn on, the "Aux" pin will see 12 volts, and the software will retard by the selected amount.
If the "Aux' pin is left open, an internal pullup resistor turns on the retard. In this case, set the switches for zero degrees nitrous retard.
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
One by product of ignition timing retard is increased EGT's, while testing the unit using a full 20 degrees of retard I hit 880c a few times. This is not the same as hitting 880c with out retard its purely a function of the timing retard. It does put more heat on the exhaust valves and should not be done for extended preiods of time, but for 1/4 mile runs or other sprints it is fine.
One by product of ignition timing retard is increased EGT's, while testing the unit using a full 20 degrees of retard I hit 880c a few times. This is not the same as hitting 880c with out retard its purely a function of the timing retard. It does put more heat on the exhaust valves and should not be done for extended preiods of time, but for 1/4 mile runs or other sprints it is fine.
#18
Originally posted by turbo97SE
Hmm I wonder if this is because the ignition of A/F mixture timing occurs closer to when the exhaust valves open?
Hmm I wonder if this is because the ignition of A/F mixture timing occurs closer to when the exhaust valves open?
#19
Turbo engine management
I am getting converting to a turbo maxima in about a week. Will this be all that I need to manage my engine?? It would replace the S-AFC, right?? It would retard the timing and controll the A/F ratio?? I guess I want to know what item(if any) it would replace, that turbo/boosted maximas are currently using.
sorry if I asked any redundant questions...just want to make sure I'm correct. Thanks
sorry if I asked any redundant questions...just want to make sure I'm correct. Thanks
#20
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Re: Turbo engine management
Originally posted by 97maximase5spd
I am getting converting to a turbo maxima in about a week. Will this be all that I need to manage my engine?? It would replace the S-AFC, right?? It would retard the timing and controll the A/F ratio?? I guess I want to know what item(if any) it would replace, that turbo/boosted maximas are currently using.
sorry if I asked any redundant questions...just want to make sure I'm correct. Thanks
I am getting converting to a turbo maxima in about a week. Will this be all that I need to manage my engine?? It would replace the S-AFC, right?? It would retard the timing and controll the A/F ratio?? I guess I want to know what item(if any) it would replace, that turbo/boosted maximas are currently using.
sorry if I asked any redundant questions...just want to make sure I'm correct. Thanks
I am looking at a unit that does both, but the sales rep isn't exactly the most responsive. I will probably get this (J&S) and the Super AFC cos more people have tried it out.
#21
Re: Re: Turbo engine management
Originally posted by turbo97SE
No this retards engine timing based on two things, boost and knock. If I understand correctly, it retards the timing by a preset amount (set by user) for every pound of boost you have starting at a set boost level. If it senses knock, it will retard the timing even more until the knock goes away or 20 degrees (I think).
No this retards engine timing based on two things, boost and knock. If I understand correctly, it retards the timing by a preset amount (set by user) for every pound of boost you have starting at a set boost level. If it senses knock, it will retard the timing even more until the knock goes away or 20 degrees (I think).
And dont forget the nitrous retard of 2,4 or 6 degrees!
So who else out thier needs some protection?
#25
Originally posted by Supai91
Does that work for the middle east ECU and where can I find my knock sensor?
If this does work then I'm intrested.
Can anyone help me with that?
Thanks
Does that work for the middle east ECU and where can I find my knock sensor?
If this does work then I'm intrested.
Can anyone help me with that?
Thanks
#29
shipping charges
From the UPS website:
Origin: GARDEN GROVE, 92843 US
Destination: BH
Drop-off/Pickup: Daily Pickup Service
Address Type: Residential
Packaging: Your Packaging
Currency: USD
Total Shipment Weight: 4 lbs.
SERVICE TYPE RATES
UPS Worldwide ExpressSM
Total Rate (USD) 72.29*
Duties and customs fees to be paid by recipient.
Origin: GARDEN GROVE, 92843 US
Destination: BH
Drop-off/Pickup: Daily Pickup Service
Address Type: Residential
Packaging: Your Packaging
Currency: USD
Total Shipment Weight: 4 lbs.
SERVICE TYPE RATES
UPS Worldwide ExpressSM
Total Rate (USD) 72.29*
Duties and customs fees to be paid by recipient.
#31
Originally posted by SMX
I?m very interested but just incase I don?t make the group deal in time what is the normal price?
I?m very interested but just incase I don?t make the group deal in time what is the normal price?
#32
Thanks you Sir
#34
Deal is closing
I have sent all of you an e-mail, if you dont recieve it please e-mail me and I will resend, matchou@***.net
I would expect to have all payments in my hands no later than Thursday August 1, 2002 please. I will then send a batch payment to J&S. Once he recieves the batch payment he will begin to customize the units for us. Then he will ship them directly to you. As you can see this may take a few weeks to ship, so please be patient.
I would expect to have all payments in my hands no later than Thursday August 1, 2002 please. I will then send a batch payment to J&S. Once he recieves the batch payment he will begin to customize the units for us. Then he will ship them directly to you. As you can see this may take a few weeks to ship, so please be patient.
#35
Update
I have recieved all payments. They should clear my bank account in a few days. I will then send the bulk payment to J&S, probably Monday 8/12/02. He should begin shipping the units a week after he recieves the bulk payment. This is a conservative guestimate, but I wouldnt expect you will see your packages until the week of 8/26/02, may be a little sooner, but not much.
#36
MardiGrasMax,
I know im going to sound like a moron on this thread but I dont care. I am getting a s/c in about 2-3weeks. Im still trying to understand why I need and what it does and why I cant get by with just a Apexi AFC and what not. If I were to run like a 3.125 or a 3" pulley on possibly a intercooler or just straight up, what advantage does this have?
Is there a site that explain this out to morons like? I dont want to take up all your time on explain this out like im a 10yr old. I still having trouble tring to figure out the whole Apexi AFC thing as well.
This is what scares me in getting the S/C and not knowing what I might be doing and end up smoking up something.
Dixit
I know im going to sound like a moron on this thread but I dont care. I am getting a s/c in about 2-3weeks. Im still trying to understand why I need and what it does and why I cant get by with just a Apexi AFC and what not. If I were to run like a 3.125 or a 3" pulley on possibly a intercooler or just straight up, what advantage does this have?
Is there a site that explain this out to morons like? I dont want to take up all your time on explain this out like im a 10yr old. I still having trouble tring to figure out the whole Apexi AFC thing as well.
This is what scares me in getting the S/C and not knowing what I might be doing and end up smoking up something.
Dixit
#37
www.jandssafeguard.com
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
MardiGrasMax,
I know im going to sound like a moron on this thread but I dont care. I am getting a s/c in about 2-3weeks. Im still trying to understand why I need and what it does and why I cant get by with just a Apexi AFC and what not. If I were to run like a 3.125 or a 3" pulley on possibly a intercooler or just straight up, what advantage does this have?
Is there a site that explain this out to morons like? I dont want to take up all your time on explain this out like im a 10yr old. I still having trouble tring to figure out the whole Apexi AFC thing as well.
This is what scares me in getting the S/C and not knowing what I might be doing and end up smoking up something.
Dixit
MardiGrasMax,
I know im going to sound like a moron on this thread but I dont care. I am getting a s/c in about 2-3weeks. Im still trying to understand why I need and what it does and why I cant get by with just a Apexi AFC and what not. If I were to run like a 3.125 or a 3" pulley on possibly a intercooler or just straight up, what advantage does this have?
Is there a site that explain this out to morons like? I dont want to take up all your time on explain this out like im a 10yr old. I still having trouble tring to figure out the whole Apexi AFC thing as well.
This is what scares me in getting the S/C and not knowing what I might be doing and end up smoking up something.
Dixit
#38
Guys, I am moving from New Orleans to DC over the next two weeks. I will not be on the board as often as I usually am. I wont be able to check my e-mail often either. I am using a temp hotmail account also, matchoup@hotmail.com If you get your J&S box and need to get intouch with me try and contact Delio, he has my cel info.