Anyone Ever Changed Their Own Oil?
#2
oil change
Originally Posted by Cussingboy
Any tips or ideas?
Thanks
RQ
Thanks
RQ
your going to need the new motor oil 10w-30 (5 quarts), filter.
to get the old filter off you will need a oil filter wrench and for the oil pan plug, a 14mm socket or wrench
you will also need a oil pan to catch the oil when you drain it.
you might want to jack up the right front side of the car if you dont have enough room to get under the car.
with your filter wrench turn the old filter to the left,if your not sure when you get under the car remeber counter clockwise. the old filter will be on there tight so you will have to get a good grip on it. then go ahead a losen up the drain plug, also counter clockwise. your just about done now, when the oil has drained put the drain plug back "dont over tighten" and put the new oil filter on, dont use the filter wrench use your hand. when putting on the new filter put a little oil on the rubber gasket.
all that is left is to put the new oil in the motor, after doing that turn the car on for about 10sec's make sure nothing is leaking, turn off the engine and check the dip stick and done.
#7
Originally Posted by JDM_Maxima
changing your oil should be no problem
your going to need the new motor oil 10w-30 (5 quarts), filter.
to get the old filter off you will need a oil filter wrench and for the oil pan plug, a 14mm socket or wrench
you will also need a oil pan to catch the oil when you drain it.
you might want to jack up the right front side of the car if you dont have enough room to get under the car.
with your filter wrench turn the old filter to the left,if your not sure when you get under the car remeber counter clockwise. the old filter will be on there tight so you will have to get a good grip on it. then go ahead a losen up the drain plug, also counter clockwise. your just about done now, when the oil has drained put the drain plug back "dont over tighten" and put the new oil filter on, dont use the filter wrench use your hand. when putting on the new filter put a little oil on the rubber gasket.
all that is left is to put the new oil in the motor, after doing that turn the car on for about 10sec's make sure nothing is leaking, turn off the engine and check the dip stick and done.
your going to need the new motor oil 10w-30 (5 quarts), filter.
to get the old filter off you will need a oil filter wrench and for the oil pan plug, a 14mm socket or wrench
you will also need a oil pan to catch the oil when you drain it.
you might want to jack up the right front side of the car if you dont have enough room to get under the car.
with your filter wrench turn the old filter to the left,if your not sure when you get under the car remeber counter clockwise. the old filter will be on there tight so you will have to get a good grip on it. then go ahead a losen up the drain plug, also counter clockwise. your just about done now, when the oil has drained put the drain plug back "dont over tighten" and put the new oil filter on, dont use the filter wrench use your hand. when putting on the new filter put a little oil on the rubber gasket.
all that is left is to put the new oil in the motor, after doing that turn the car on for about 10sec's make sure nothing is leaking, turn off the engine and check the dip stick and done.
RQ
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Cussingboy
I'm doing it naked. Warm dirty motor oil on my naked body in my front yard... I'll post pictures.
rq
rq
#10
Originally Posted by attomica
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention goggles. As good as warm oil on or body may be, old motor oil will hurt your eyes. Make sure those pictures show you with goggles on. And maybe a top hat.
I think that mental image has scarred me for life.
#13
Did it today, no problem at all.
I didn't have to jack it up or anything. The filter and plug are like 6 inches away from each other. 14 mm for the plug and I did have to get a filter wrench for the filter, the guys put the old one on way to tight. This is much easier than my old miata.
By the way the mobil 1 filter is the m-110. Could not find a drain plug gasket but I may just use the Fram sure drain next time.
Anyone with opinions on the fram sure drain?
thanks
RQ
I didn't have to jack it up or anything. The filter and plug are like 6 inches away from each other. 14 mm for the plug and I did have to get a filter wrench for the filter, the guys put the old one on way to tight. This is much easier than my old miata.
By the way the mobil 1 filter is the m-110. Could not find a drain plug gasket but I may just use the Fram sure drain next time.
Anyone with opinions on the fram sure drain?
thanks
RQ
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by i30ds
What the hell is blinker fliud?!?
#17
Originally Posted by attomica
It's very important. You usually replace that at the same time you're servicing the muffler bearings. Make sure you use synthetic because you don't want to get caught out there without blinkers and get a ticket. Even if you tell the cop you ran out of blinker fluid, he won't care. Especially if you're wearing a top hat.
RQ
#18
Originally Posted by attomica
It's very important. You usually replace that at the same time you're servicing the muffler bearings. Make sure you use synthetic because you don't want to get caught out there without blinkers and get a ticket. Even if you tell the cop you ran out of blinker fluid, he won't care. Especially if you're wearing a top hat.
I never drive with out a top hat .
#20
I just started changing the oil myself last year and after changing oil on 7 cars, the I30 was the easiest, especially if you have the 1st gen. Both oil drain and oil filter are easily accessible by turning your wheels to the right and removing a plastic cover. You don't need to jack the car. The oil drain and oil filter and so close together you can let the oil drain while you remove and replace the oil filter.
Tips. . .
Get one of those large flat metal or plastic floor pans. Trust me.
If the oil filter is too hard to remove by hard, forget filter wrenches, use a channel lock. You probably already have one of those. If you already have a filter wrench and it's just slightly too big for the oil filter, stuff a terry cloth inside it. If you wind up always having to use tools to remove the oil filter and you're sure you eat your Wheaties that morning then the oil filter is on too tight.
Always wipe the oil filter mating surface on the engine and always smear oil on the gasket of the new oil filter.
Fill only 1/2 the distance to full on the dipstick and add more after your 1st regular daily drive. There is usually a fluctuation of levels after the first 'good' run on the road.
Some auto places also give you money for returning oil. It's not much. . . $.24 - $.32 per gallon, but don't be afraid to ask. I once returned oil, asked, they had $.32 cent off coupons, said they didn't know they even existed, and in their suprize and confusion ended up giving me 10 coupons. $3.20 for used oil when I only spent about $3 on the new oil.
Get the best non-synth oil when on sale. . . like Pennzoil for $.89 and Chevron for $.69 and change every 3,333 or 5,000 miles based on how often you do 20 minute freeway runs at least 55mph. Easier to remember on your odometer (0000, 3333, 6666 or 0000, 5000). Don't bother with synths, unless you don't like changing your oil as often or want an additional .5-1 mpg improvement during freeway runs. Synths can go 5000-7500 miles as opposed to 3333-5000 miles for non-synth. Keep in mind that the .5-1mph will barely make up for the difference in price.
Get OEM, Purolator Premium Plus, or FRAM TG oil filters. I recently cut up a bunch of Maxima/I30 oil filter and found those the best. Actual measurements and results can be found in the forums for a popular oil site bobistheoilguy. Look for my username under oil filters. Or if enough interest, I can post here.
Tips. . .
Get one of those large flat metal or plastic floor pans. Trust me.
If the oil filter is too hard to remove by hard, forget filter wrenches, use a channel lock. You probably already have one of those. If you already have a filter wrench and it's just slightly too big for the oil filter, stuff a terry cloth inside it. If you wind up always having to use tools to remove the oil filter and you're sure you eat your Wheaties that morning then the oil filter is on too tight.
Always wipe the oil filter mating surface on the engine and always smear oil on the gasket of the new oil filter.
Fill only 1/2 the distance to full on the dipstick and add more after your 1st regular daily drive. There is usually a fluctuation of levels after the first 'good' run on the road.
Some auto places also give you money for returning oil. It's not much. . . $.24 - $.32 per gallon, but don't be afraid to ask. I once returned oil, asked, they had $.32 cent off coupons, said they didn't know they even existed, and in their suprize and confusion ended up giving me 10 coupons. $3.20 for used oil when I only spent about $3 on the new oil.
Get the best non-synth oil when on sale. . . like Pennzoil for $.89 and Chevron for $.69 and change every 3,333 or 5,000 miles based on how often you do 20 minute freeway runs at least 55mph. Easier to remember on your odometer (0000, 3333, 6666 or 0000, 5000). Don't bother with synths, unless you don't like changing your oil as often or want an additional .5-1 mpg improvement during freeway runs. Synths can go 5000-7500 miles as opposed to 3333-5000 miles for non-synth. Keep in mind that the .5-1mph will barely make up for the difference in price.
Get OEM, Purolator Premium Plus, or FRAM TG oil filters. I recently cut up a bunch of Maxima/I30 oil filter and found those the best. Actual measurements and results can be found in the forums for a popular oil site bobistheoilguy. Look for my username under oil filters. Or if enough interest, I can post here.
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