Infiniti I30/I35 Similar to a Maxima, yet not really a Maxima. Discussion forum on Nissan's luxury model, the Infiniti I30/I35

o2 AND crank

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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 08:17 PM
  #1  
anton9881's Avatar
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o2 AND crank

I finally decided that tomorrow i will replace my faulty o2 (bank 1 sensor 2) and crankshaft position sensor. I have a few questions though. Does it really matter if i get oem or universal sensors and is there any tips/tricks I should know of before I start this?
Old Dec 12, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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I don't know about any tips or tricks, but I'd suggest going with OEM replacements from www.oxygensensors.com .
Old Dec 12, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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I am on a budget for the sensors. I do not want to spend more than $175 for both. I found at autozone and napa, I can get both for 150-175.
Old Dec 12, 2004 | 10:16 PM
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A napa, carquest, autozone should work, and the sensor will propably be bosch as well (oem). The important thing is to make sure that it is NOT just the sensor, but the sensor a long with the wiring and connectors.

When I got new o2s they were oem from everythingnissan.com, but recently I help a friend change the o2s on his 99 tahoe and the napa brand worked just fine. They were complete with the appropriate lenght of wire and connectors. I was quite suprised!
Old Dec 14, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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what you guys think about the $50 ones from oxygensensors.com that you have to splice the wire before the plug.??
Old Dec 14, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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see right here where it says /\ cut here before the plug.
Old Dec 14, 2004 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by orlando00i30
what you guys think about the $50 ones from oxygensensors.com that you have to splice the wire before the plug.??
Stay the hell away from that **** man!!! O2 sensors are VERY sensitive. They search for rich and lean conditions via the exhaust gases, and operate in a range from 200-800 OHMS, going up and down the range searching and searching.

If you do not splice the new ones in EXACTLY PERFECT, your new o2 will be faulty and all that work will be for nothing! Also, o2 sensors can still be working and yet be faulty as when they get old, the will get stuck in a particluar section of the OHMS range witch gives the ECU a false rich or lean signal. The same thing could happen if you do not properly splice these things.

Spend the extra money and get the ones with the full lenght of wire and connectors (I got mine from everythingnissan.com at whol sale), it will save you a huge head ache!
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