Confounding grounding wires
Confounding grounding wires
I recently purchased a grounding kit that came with six wires, a negative battery terminal adapter, and a round disk to which one end of each wire is to be connected.
While I was researching grounding kits, I found others that contained either five wires or four wires, and some of the five wire kits (like Stillen) had two wires joined at one end.
Well, I tried connecting my kit according to some instructions offered up by a Car Domain member, and when it came time to fire up the engine -- it didn't!
All I heard was, "Click!"
Needless to say, I removed the wires and returned the battery to its original state. Then I decided to follow the directions provided by Active Tuning for their four-wire grounding kit.
In less than 30 minutes, all four wires were connected, with only one wire going to the negative battery terminal. The car starts fine -- quicker than before -- but, other than that, nothing noticable in terms of performance.
Now, my question to the group is this:
Why all the variations here with the different number of wires AND the different connection sites?
I've got two wires left over, and despite the Active Tuning setup I used, I'm still wondering if there is a place under the hood for more connections. For example, I do not have a wire going to the transmission housing, and I'm thinking of running one to its existing grounding site.
My current connections are as follows:
1. (-) battery terminal to existing grounding site on frame below, and to the right of the fuse box on driver's side.
2. Cylinder head to existing grounding site on frame near filler tube for window washer.
3. Intake manifold to existing grounding site on frame near where #2 was attached.
4. Timing valve cover to frame under the cruise control servo vaccum.
Any thoughts?
While I was researching grounding kits, I found others that contained either five wires or four wires, and some of the five wire kits (like Stillen) had two wires joined at one end.
Well, I tried connecting my kit according to some instructions offered up by a Car Domain member, and when it came time to fire up the engine -- it didn't!
All I heard was, "Click!"
Needless to say, I removed the wires and returned the battery to its original state. Then I decided to follow the directions provided by Active Tuning for their four-wire grounding kit.
In less than 30 minutes, all four wires were connected, with only one wire going to the negative battery terminal. The car starts fine -- quicker than before -- but, other than that, nothing noticable in terms of performance.
Now, my question to the group is this:
Why all the variations here with the different number of wires AND the different connection sites?
I've got two wires left over, and despite the Active Tuning setup I used, I'm still wondering if there is a place under the hood for more connections. For example, I do not have a wire going to the transmission housing, and I'm thinking of running one to its existing grounding site.
My current connections are as follows:
1. (-) battery terminal to existing grounding site on frame below, and to the right of the fuse box on driver's side.
2. Cylinder head to existing grounding site on frame near filler tube for window washer.
3. Intake manifold to existing grounding site on frame near where #2 was attached.
4. Timing valve cover to frame under the cruise control servo vaccum.
Any thoughts?
I just finished an article in NissanPerformanceMag about a grounding kit that daisy-chained them; i.e., battery to chassis to manifold to transmission to cylinder head to timing belt cover, etc..
well sometimes even if you think u tightened the nut on the negative terminal it still might not be tight... i learned this after wiring my heads with relays.... and realized that i didnt tighten.... when i tried to start car it did click thing...
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
I recently purchased a grounding kit that came with six wires, a negative battery terminal adapter, and a round disk to which one end of each wire is to be connected.
While I was researching grounding kits, I found others that contained either five wires or four wires, and some of the five wire kits (like Stillen) had two wires joined at one end.
Well, I tried connecting my kit according to some instructions offered up by a Car Domain member, and when it came time to fire up the engine -- it didn't!
All I heard was, "Click!"
Needless to say, I removed the wires and returned the battery to its original state. Then I decided to follow the directions provided by Active Tuning for their four-wire grounding kit.
In less than 30 minutes, all four wires were connected, with only one wire going to the negative battery terminal. The car starts fine -- quicker than before -- but, other than that, nothing noticable in terms of performance.
Now, my question to the group is this:
Why all the variations here with the different number of wires AND the different connection sites?
I've got two wires left over, and despite the Active Tuning setup I used, I'm still wondering if there is a place under the hood for more connections. For example, I do not have a wire going to the transmission housing, and I'm thinking of running one to its existing grounding site.
My current connections are as follows:
1. (-) battery terminal to existing grounding site on frame below, and to the right of the fuse box on driver's side.
2. Cylinder head to existing grounding site on frame near filler tube for window washer.
3. Intake manifold to existing grounding site on frame near where #2 was attached.
4. Timing valve cover to frame under the cruise control servo vaccum.
Any thoughts?
While I was researching grounding kits, I found others that contained either five wires or four wires, and some of the five wire kits (like Stillen) had two wires joined at one end.
Well, I tried connecting my kit according to some instructions offered up by a Car Domain member, and when it came time to fire up the engine -- it didn't!
All I heard was, "Click!"
Needless to say, I removed the wires and returned the battery to its original state. Then I decided to follow the directions provided by Active Tuning for their four-wire grounding kit.
In less than 30 minutes, all four wires were connected, with only one wire going to the negative battery terminal. The car starts fine -- quicker than before -- but, other than that, nothing noticable in terms of performance.
Now, my question to the group is this:
Why all the variations here with the different number of wires AND the different connection sites?
I've got two wires left over, and despite the Active Tuning setup I used, I'm still wondering if there is a place under the hood for more connections. For example, I do not have a wire going to the transmission housing, and I'm thinking of running one to its existing grounding site.
My current connections are as follows:
1. (-) battery terminal to existing grounding site on frame below, and to the right of the fuse box on driver's side.
2. Cylinder head to existing grounding site on frame near filler tube for window washer.
3. Intake manifold to existing grounding site on frame near where #2 was attached.
4. Timing valve cover to frame under the cruise control servo vaccum.
Any thoughts?
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