bigd480

is it possible to add AUX to this unit like the original Bose HU? I currently use the cassette adapter for my external XM unit (or I did till the tape player crapped out, along w/ the CD). I don't plan to keep XM for much longer so I don't want to go the Nissan-XM route - Aux-in is more verstatile.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Any links to info about adding AUX inputs to the stock hu's? What about rca outputs? I would LOVE to look into this more.

thetoolman424

the difference in head units is that the factory equipped Bose radio uses amps at each speaker to produce it music. The Pathfinder that the radios are out of most likely stock amplified so it doesn't have the pin coming out of the factory deck. The other thing to realize is that you are oversaturating the inputs of the Bose amp when doing this. The Bose system works off of a low level signal(RCA's), and the new stock 6-Disc radios are feeding high level in. It may work for a while but eventually it will cause issues.

thetoolman424

scosche sells input harness's for inputs to the stock i30 and the 6-disc. you can get them ordered at Best Buy for around $100. The can be set-up to run Ipod or a 3.5mm mini-jack.

bigd480

See below for the AUX to RCA adapter: [EDIT: THIS WILL NOT WORK w/ the 2005 Pathfinder HU]
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=610

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/pdf/auxniss.pdf

Have most of you just ground down the 4 depressions on the bracket and drilled 2 new holes (mounting it w/ 2 screws on each side instead of 4)?

I'm thinking about taking it to a machine shop (I don't have metalworking tools) and having them cut out a square shape that contains the 4 holes (not all the way through to the front of the bracket) and then move/reweld that square to the right location (seems to be about 1cm back and the same angle). Let me know if that's overkill or flawed logic.

BlackKnight

iTrader: (5)

Do not buy the adapter below for the 2005 Pathfinder unit. It will not work. The one you need is the PAC AAI-NIS2. It is designed for units that are XM/Sirius ready, not to mention cheaper than the Soundgate unit. Here's a link to the product page: http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...iliary%20Input
The reason the soundgate unit won't work is because it already has a built-in Cd-Changer and that is what the soundgate unit needs. There is no way to select another changer, whereas the PAC model uses the Radio selection button which would normally be used with factory XM/Sirius. It also adds 2 aux inputs instead of one. I've seen them on Ebay for $75.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

That's overkill imho. Even taking the radio completely apart & directly welding the bracket is, the last one I did I did exactly like you said.

bigd480

Gotcha - some n00b questions before I go further:
-you're drilling new holes in the brackets and re-using the same mounting screws/holes in the deck? did you need a washer since the old screws were designed for the depression?

-Tapping K/D - keep both wires connected to the harness and use a parallel ("H" splice) compression connector?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Wiring= Exactly, you got it, those quicksplice vampire taps work pro.

No need to use washers, and YES original screws go into the new deck. I found that I had to drill the holes slightly oversized, almost slotted, so that I could adjust it to get a perfect fit, but that's because I was making them a perfect flush fit. Even the stock ones aren't a perfect flush fit, so you also need to use zip-ties (with the bulky parts cut off) or something similiar to space the top and bottom of the trim out more, otherwise it will bow in. You'll see what I'm talking about. If you do this step before the holes it will also make it easier to mark the holes.

bigd480

Thanks man - just saw the post but what I ended up doing was making the holes bigger like you said and then drilling a wood screw (bugle-end kind) into some scrap wood, through the new bracket hole, causing it to recess a little bit like the original holes. Doing that, the original screws fit in fine, and I torqued em down w/ an impact screwdriver. Everything fit back together pretty tight and to the eye it's flush.

nick

iTrader: (10)

Yes, i have the same question, if K is rear amp, and D is ACC why is it necessary to splice wires?

will it work without splicing?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It is nescascarry to splice the wires because it won't work otherwise.

The radio needs ACC, and the rear amps need ACC. Just do it the way mentioned, don't risk it not working by snipping K from the radio end.

nick

iTrader: (10)

I'm still lost as far as the splice, could some one explain it in more detail/lame terms
or post picture?

thanks alot

Spartuss

iTrader: (8)

I am with nick on this. Can someone explain the splicing, perhaps provide a diagram, or attach pictures. Thanks a bunch!

bigd480

Get a tap splice (AKA wire tap, vampire clip, scotchlock, etc). You can find them at Home Depot, probably Walmart and radio shack too, just get the right size for this wire (probably 18-22AWG). Use this to join the 2 wires - basically making an "H". The tap splice will have one end blocked off - that's for situations where you're tapping a single wire into another. I wasn't sure about this so I just bent that piece of blocking plastic down and clamped the splice on to connect both and it worked fine.

I don't know much about stereos but it seems like the Bose amps need a 12v signal to turn on and this radio doesn't provide that so you're using the ACC circuit to provide it when you turn the radio on (which now that I think about it means you could probably cut the wire at the radio side and just insert the harness side wire into the tap but I could be wrong).

Please feel free to correct me but sometimes n00bs can explain better to other n00bs.

RandallFlagg

BigD and Nick. Did you even read the whole thread? I know at a whopping three pages it might have taken you awhile but this has been extensively covered by myself and others on previous pages.

BKLYNLIMITED

iTrader: (8)

Does anyone know who selling the 2005 bose unit. There was member selling them with the modified bracket a while back but I am unable to find the thread. Can any of you guys point me in the rite direction?

//Keith

BKLYNLIMITED

iTrader: (8)

is there anyone in the New york or new jersey area that can help me with this install? I just ordered a unit on ebay and should get it in a few days. I have a 99I30T and love the clean look. I just want to get it done properly.
I know there need to be some modifications as far as drilling.

//Keith

BKLYNLIMITED

iTrader: (8)

Anyone??

Col Ronson

does this work for an I35? i see these for sale on ebay and crutchfield sells an ipod adapter for this HU which i really want.

If its double DIN it should fit the I35 with the appropriate dashkit right?

nopepeno

I just got mine and I made it flush like the original Bose; can't wait to install it. I made some little holes to start and then made the holes bigger towards the side needed . after checking the installation I will use gorilla glue to over kill. but basically 4 screws should work just fine.
Here is a pic.



and as for the LEDs I took the face apart because I thought I could use the old LED's covers but these LEDs are so totally different so the only way to get a color change is to buy these little LEDs in white and mess with the board to solder the surface mounted LED, then paint over some blueish - greenish. as for now I don't think is worth my time but I might change my mind later on.

Question???
I wonder why do I have to provide POSITIVE charge to the amp remote by joining k and d........
what is coming out of -what is supposed to be the amp turn ON for the Maxima-. is it a negative charge or what????????????? can I used a custom relay? I don't want to use the ignition power turn on to turn the amps on. this will mean that they will always be on no mater what. maybe on a cold winter day this can be a bad idea for me.