ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Just bought an 02 I35. It's mechanically sound minus a P1800 and P0455 and a few squeaks here and there, exterior probably needs a good detail or even a new paint job and has some minor damage, interior is perfect. Probably want to throw some new tires on as well.


Before I ask my first question, is there an online version of the owner's manual anywhere? I'm not talking about the service/repair manual, but the layman's terms manual.

So I asked previously what P1800 was and it's supposedly VIAS Solenoid Control Valve Open, hopefully that's a simple plug & play part replacement...hope DAVEB comes to the rescue. Cleared it and the code came back as pending.

Now my first question is, is this P1800 under recall? I called a dealer in NY and they told me that what I was talking about was under recall but when I called a local dealer (in IL), they knew nothing about it.

Second question is, are alarms/remote entry standard on these models? I only have a key. If it is, can I just grab a key fob from somewhere and program it?

Third, any suspension mods short of new struts/shocks or even coilovers? I like the car but feels topsy at times. It can still take a high-speed turn with elegance and without a loss of balance. Any way to make it a little firmer?

Also, what maintenance should I do for a car at about 140k? I know I need an oil change, brake fluid flush, air filter (I always go with the lifetime high-flow K&Ns). Anything else good to do?

Guess I should rejoin under a different username now!

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

You can find a copy of the owners manual there-
http://www.infiniti-techinfo.com/deptog.aspx?dept_id=52

For the suspension problem, you can try putting a rear sway bar and front strut brace(its not going to make it firm but you will feel less body role).

The Remote FCC ID is KBRASTU15so you can get that off ebay(make sure the FCC ID matches tho.

Also when you get your K&N drop-in, you can do the GAB mod which will give you more power and a real nice sound(you'll love it and it's free)-
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=154630

din9lebeRrY

iTrader: (2)

Welcome. I have 2 keyfobs for you, one brand new never used. The should work, just have to program it (simple procedure). I upgraded to an aftermarket alarm system so i no longer have use for these.

Good luck with the car.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I just grabbed a couple off eBay for 20 bucks, sorry dingleberry. Thanks for the owner's manual as well, I knew this car had to have some type of security system...and I learned you can still activate the alarm with the key w/o a fob.

This car has some nice power especially the top end, it really pulls!

Thanks for the strut/sway bars...any good, cheap ones?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Also, I cannot open my car with the key that starts the car. And of course vice versa, can't start the car with (non-chipped) key that opens the car. I know the second issue is normal, but what about the first?

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

Check out Vibrant Racing FSTB, theres is good and cheap and for the sway bar go with the Progress one that cattman sells for around 140 i think.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks, a33i30.

Also, do you guys' right front door have a keyhole?

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

keyhole is only on the drivers door.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

OK, I had suspected that the door had been repaired or shaved.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Here's some pictures.






Now, the pictures of why I got a good price:

Torn bumper, and rust around gas cap. What do you guys think would be the best solution for these problems?

Torn bumper:




Rusted gas cap area:

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

What the hell? That rear bumper looks like someone took their frustrations out on it with a screwdriver or something.

And are those wheels off a Q45?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the bumper is pretty nasty looking. Wheels...I don't know. I payed less than $5k.

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

Rims are nice, colors nice too just the rear bumper needs touch-up.

burgy

iTrader: (4)

Those ARE I35 rims. They came on my girls sport model. I know a few other pepz have them as well. I am actually selling a pair of them also right now with tires.


The bumper could be quickly fixed short term and you could sand down the gas cap after covering the hole so crap doesn't get intop your tank, but is it really that big of a deal. looks like just surface rust in the pic?

Looks like a NICE pick up.

VeeTec

Nice color, and sport package. I programmed one of my 350Z key fobs to work with the I35, you can do a google search for the procedure, and it only takes a minute or so.

I had to replace the front and rear motor mounts on mine, after buying it, at 140K miles. Mine also had a power steering leak, coming from the high pressure line on the firewall, and slight oil leak.

It is still a great car though, and provides plenty of driving satisfaction. These cars get a lot stronger with high miles. Lots of power with a nice comfortable smooth ride, while still handling surprisingly well.

Enjoy your new car.

VeeTec

Oh yeah, I had to get the one of the o2 sensors replaced, which was causing a SES light. You must run good premium fuel, or you will get a SES light and poor performance, if you run anything less. I did a little experimenting early on. Now I only run 93 octane, from stations which haven't given me a problem. These cars are picky, but will run very strong with good gas. Congrats again.

burgy

iTrader: (4)

thats why the gas cap says premium only.....

VeeTec

No, actually it says, "Premium fuel is recommended for maximum performance", and it says that on the inside of the fuel door. The I35 and it's Maxima cousin, are very picky, especially with miles.

The issue here is that most stations now have uni-pumps, which means one hose for all grades. If you don't get a pump where the last grade used was premium, you will get anywhere from half a gallon to a gallon of whatever grade was in there. If you are not filling up the tank, and only put $15-20, it will sometimes make a noticable difference in how the car runs, and actually trip the SES light, while putting the ECU in limp mode.

At least it did with our car. I either find a pump where the last grade used was 93, at a station I trust, or I go to a station with individual lines for each grade. The I35 is very sensitive to the gas, and I have even gotten SES lights from stations where I pumped all 93, but the fuel probably had excessive moisture from lack of monitoring. The SES would go away quickly after pumping from a good station.

This is not likely to happen with lower mileage I35's, but more so with higher mileage examples, once the sensors start to get a little wear or build up on them. You can always replace all of the sensors, the TB, the fuel pump, clean the injectors, etc, but that can be pricey, so I only replaced the O2 sensor which was acting up originally, and keeping the SES light on for long periods of time. Eventually I probably will do all of the listed maintenance, but right now, the car runs very well, as long as I run the good stuff a from gas stations I trust.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

sounds like the driver door was replaced and the locked not re keyed for original key. Take it to a locksmith to have the driver door lock re keyed to be used with the transponder key. Around my area, its about $24 at a local locksmith if you remove the lock yourself and drop it off for a few hours.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the comments & suggestions. I'm gonna get a new bumper regardless 'cause it just looks horrible when you walk around the car, think it's nice, and then you see "it".

I always use 93 octane, whichever one is available, usually at a Shell ("V-Power"). I've learned the extra 2 to 3 dollars makes it worth it.

I think the gas cap rust is a problem because I've gotten P0445 (large evap leak) and P0442 (small evap leak). Cleared the codes, bought a temporary cap from Autozone, and after 250+ miles, neither of those codes have come back (and the Trip read 31mpg, but 99% highway). The old cap had rust residue on the rubber seal (and the seal was pretty hard vs. flexible how rubber should be). This new cap is gonna develop it if I don't get that rust out though.

I got my fobs in the mail, gonna try the programming later on, I've seen the instructions on here & also in the FSM.

Also, the door key turns the engine over, but of course since it doesn't have the chip it won't start. I'll still go see what the locksmith says.

Thanks....and I didn't even know it was the sport package, nice!

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

A new gas cap from Autozone solved my EVAP DTCs. Also programmed my remotes successfully.

After paying the $130 diagnostic fee at the dealer, they discovered:
1) Front Stabilizer Bar Links are loose & make noise...$450
2) Engine belts need replacing...$250
3) Need a coolant flush...$120
4) Need a trans flush....$120
5) Need alignment...$180

I'm probably gonna do the coolant & trans drain/refills myself. Is the serp. belt an easy DIY job? Gonna get an alignment after I get new tires. And the loose stabilizer links, is that an easy DIY also?

n3985

iTrader: (36)

$450 for stabilizer end links?

You can get a pair of Moog endlinks which are better buiilt than OEM for ~$40 shipped and do it yourself in 20min, two bolts on each side and you are done! For alignment just to to Firestone or something since our cars only need the front and it will ~$80.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I can't locate a DIY page for the endlinks...do you or anyone else have pictures of what I'm replacing? I just need to know what the part looks like & can probably figure the rest out.

And the belts, how do you replace them?

NSMO240

iTrader: (5)

belts are cake you need a 12mm, and a 14mm, goin from the bottom turn the wheel all the way to the right, pull off the splash sheild on the pass side, the alternator belt there is a tensioner pulley, loosen that up with the 14, about 3 full turns not completely off, then while your down there you take the 12 for the power steering bolt which is located near the firewall, loosen the lock bolt, and the way to loosen the power steering adjuster bolt is backwards, so its righty loosen lefty tighty, then go up top and take the 14 on the alternator pulley adjuster bolt and loosen till it stops, dont go tight or you will strip the threads, just snug it, removed the belts, then install is reverse of removal.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks for the info.

Col Ronson

Hey guys. Just bought an I35 at 96k miles. 2002 model.

I did a carfax and learned that the car was seized from the previous owner at 85k miles and bought at an auction house by the guy i bought it from at 95k miles. Somehow the car gained 10k miles between the auction house and the owner before me.

Since i don't trust the auction guys did any maintenance, what should i get done right away? i recently topped off the tank with 91 octane gas because i doubt the last guy filled it up with premium gas, and shortly later the service engine soon light came on, but i think that's a gas problem that'll go away later (it turns off and on sometimes while driving).

I had the oil changed today, checked the radiator reserve. It was nearly empty with some nasty looking black liquid in there. Im going to have to do a radiator flush soon.

Any other suggestions?

GrandMoffJoseph

To both posters on this thread who just bought an I35:

What kind of oil is being used in those cars? As many of us can attest to (myself included), VQ35s have a tendency to eat oil at accelerated rates when they get into "high mileage" territory. The tell-tale sign of this is excessive timing chain rattle at idle and speed.

Also, FYI, if the Bose CD player starts massively skipping and not playing, this is a known defect from the manufacturer of the CD deck itself (Clarion, I believe). There is no "fix" for it, other than to swap the HU. Unfortunately, swapping the HU requires an adapter to sync the new HU with the stock Bose hardware.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Haha, sounds like we got our cars the same way...in my car's history, it went through an auction & was about to be seized!

Since purchasing, my four-month update:

- Needed VIAS control valve solenoid ($20)
- ATF drain & fills (3 of 'em)
- Overheating; did a radiator drain/flush/fill...but just bought new radiator ($140)
- New radiator fans since one was rattling ($100)
- Horn fuse corroded causing intermittent horn operation
- Swaybar endlinks
- Oil leak (new pan on the way) ($100)
- Bad driver-side inner tie rod
- New EVAP canister & valve ($270)
- New rear brake pads, rotors, and calipers (were squeaking)
- Hole in exhaust (hopefully a $30 or less weld job)

I currently am battling loose steering which was always a problem (thought new tires would fix but didn't) and hope my oil leak & overheating problems will be under control once the pan & radiator are replaced.

Lol, $450 for the end links! Even though it took me like a good month to replace them, $450, hahaha!