pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

As most of you know,
Cars like i35 have problems with subwoofer, it cuts out. I fixed it temporarly about 5k miles ago and now the problem is up again.

I know a place that can fix it for about $85, but on top of the cut out problem, sometimes the bass sounds bad from the subwoofer. On some tones it sounds great and on some it sound like bunch of metal washers shake.

So, do you guys think I should fix the cut out problem
or get another subwoofer? I read before that there is some 1omh sub available for sale which sounds better, but not sure about amp etc.

Anyway, what would be your recommendation? Thanks

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Anybody?)

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

GUT IT! I hate "BLOSE"! It sounds like crap all around. IMO.

You asked....

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks so is there any sub available for it? Can i connect it to existing amp? Or i will need to replace the sub and the amp?

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

I would get a new amp and sub. im not the right guy to ask. I just gutted mine and ran all new stuff.

2001i30

iTrader: (1)

I believe there is a sub you can put in place of the OEM sub, but the package shelf itself is what rattles. The shelf needs to be dynomated. Also, there is a TSB on the shelf which requires adding a screw to one of the corners. I wedged a piece of rubber inthe corner which seemed to help, but with heavy base it still rattles.

I think most have had the best result by adding an amp and and a sub with a box in the trunk. I think you can use the speaker wires, but will have to run power form the battery.

Jaidon05

I am thinking about switching out my entire sound system myself. I've only had my baby for the past four months and I am already getting tired of the sub going out.

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Just do it. You won't regret it. You will realize who crappy it sounds once its gone. It is night and day!

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Joeker, you should make full manual with pictures

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

If I want to change the sub and amp, how do I do that?)

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

I don't have time to do that.

S**t! I barely have enough time to sleep half the time.

I surf this site mobile.

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

me too most of the time I am just kind of confused, let's say I want to change four speakers in my car. Do I just get same size speaker of any brand and screw them in and use adapters? or there something else to it? because I heard that there is amp in every speaker. Its really confusing.

Speaking of the sub, If I want to change the subwoofer and amp, do they still need to be 1mh or something like that, or since I change it with amp, it can be 4mh or something like that? would I attach amp to where stock amp is located? what about the black box that is right under the stock sub, what is it for? will I need it on replacement sub?

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Have you ever installed a stereo or speakers before? Or a amp?

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Only stereo and replaced regular speakers

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

This link should help you out:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/5th...ing-codes.html

If you want to run aftermarket speakers you have to bypass the factory amp. What you are gonna want to do is...locate the amp in the trunk.(Under the rear deck on the passenger side) locate the wires going into it (reference the link to the wiring codes)The speakers don't have their own amps. Everything wires back to the amp.



Your bypassing the factory amp doing this.

What you want to do is connect the inputs with the outputs for each speaker. (i.e - input front left to output front left).

At your new headunit. Wire everything straight forward.

The speaker sizes are 6.5 front 5.25 back. Get new speakers!

As far as a sub......get a sub and box and a amp to run the sub.

Your correct on the 1 ohm. Bose stereos run 1 ohm speakers. Non-bose speakers are 4 ohm. That is why you cant just replace the speakers with aftermarket ones and utilize the factory amp. So, by bypassing the amp you can run aftermarket speakers. You will be get the 4 ohm signal off of your aftermarket headunit - bypassing the amp - delivering it straight to the Aftermarket speakers (4 ohm required). If you tried to run it without bypassing the amp.....it goes like this....Aftermarket Headunit - Bose Amp (1 ohm signal) - Aftermarket Speakers (require 4 ohm signal only getting 1 ohm signal) Does that make sense?

Hope this helps!

Everyone else that knows stereo stuff......If this sounds stupid? I'm trying to make it as basic as possible.

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, it helped A LOT

I am confused with one thing though, I need to get this harness

Method 2:
Amp integration Harness Metra Part 70-7551
Metra Part 70-7551


This harness is the best harness you can get. This harness utilizes the low level RCA preamp outputs of your new headunit to produce a clear signal to your BOSE amplifiers. With this harness you bypass your headunits internal amplifier and use only the preamp outs. This method supplies the proper amount of signal to eliminate distortion presented by direct amplifer hookup like with the Metra 70-7550.

But it says that it bypasses aftermarket headunit amp, if it bypasses it and I bypass BOSE amp, will speakers still work good?

Speaking of sub,
Can I put sub in the stock sub place and may be put amp on a side in a trunk?

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Plain and simple, you want to eliminate that bose amp. Its garbage.

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Get the harness without the female rca's on it. The metra 70-7550. I believe? And then bypass the wires in the trunk, and buy new speakers for the doors.

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks,
I got my eyes on JVC KW-XR810 HU because I don't want to have ipod connection in front of HU and plus it has bluetooth so I can listen to music from iphone through bluetooth,
You think its a good pick?

Also, what speakers would you recommend? I don't want to pay a lot and want to be sure they will fit in the doors. Do you think I need to change tweeters too?

As I asked earlier, can I put subwoofer in the stock sub spot and mount amp on a side in a trunk? If yes, can you recommend what sub and what amp?

And were you able to keep the steering wheel controls?

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

No, to the steering wheel controls. But they do make a interface for it for like 50 bucks.

The tweeters I just removed. You can get separates, but you will have to fab something to mount the tweeters in the stock location.

I can't really recommend what to pick. Everybody has diffrent preferences. I personally like alpine.

Besides, their are so many choices, thats half the fun. Picking what "you" like!

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a lot man, I believe I understand everything now

I just don't feel like putting box in a trunk, you think with aftermarket sub installed in stock sub it will sound fine? Do you have picture of your trunk? I want to see how you got it there

Just to confirm, to bypass the amp, I don't touch - wires, but put input and output + together, right?

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

There really isn't any free air 8" subs out there. It sounds like crap if you just put a sub in there. You have to box it.

Your going to do all the wires, negative and positive.

I don't have a pic right now. I took some stuff out, due to my body shop visit tomorrow

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a lot bro. You opened my eyes to all that stuff. I counted that to replace all system would cost me about $900. So I think first i will fix the sub for $85, then sometime later change the HU, and only then will figure something out with speakers. I dont want to fill my trunk with anything so I dont know what I can do. It would be nice if there were some air subs available.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

you could always cut the hole in the rear deck so you could do a 10 or 12" sub

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Its such a pain in the a** though. Plus you cant go back once you cut it. I think that would hurt resale.

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I think you will also be more likely to have rattle or problems like this.

I've found another free air sub DLS oa8
I heard it sounds a lot better than stock bose sub
http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_120

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

NICE, I am Senior Member now

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Man, they will just let anybody in these days! j/k dude! Lol

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

lol, well, thats kind of true, 100 messages is not that much, especially if you have tons of little problems with a car

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Okey, here is my idea,
what if I use aftermarket HU, and DLS oa8 sub in stock sub place, and separate amp that I could mount probably to the side in a trunk. And I will leave other bose speakers there for awhile.

What harness would I need to use for that? You think it's possible to make 6 speakers go without internal HU amp and make sub go through the internal HU amp and then to the aftermarket amp?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

you could do six speakers off of an aftermarket HU, but there is no point really. You could do an aftermarket HU and keep the bose components and have an A.M. sub/amp. I had thart set up for a while. Had a local shop bypass bose for me. Check out this thread, should answer your bLose questions
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...nt-thread.html

IIRC the JL 8W7AE is a free air sub. My buddy is rocking to 8W7's and they sound amazing
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=37

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, $450 for a sub is too much for me though
What I was wondering though, to keep stock speakers and after market sub, what harness would I need for HU, 70-7550 or 70-7551?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

not sure. I had a local shop bypass my bose. 51 is said to be better, 50 says there is some distortion. Any questions PM me or ad me on facebook

you could always get something like this(list below) BUT you will still end up spending like $450

stealthbox
good 10" sub
amp

Here is the 8w7 for $338
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...html?aff=72182

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, what confused me was harness 51 is better if you gonna use stock bose speakers because it bypasses internal aftermarket amp, 50 does not bypass the internal amp, so they are better for aftermarket speakers because if you gonna use aftermarket speakers then you will have to bypass original amp. So if I want to have original speakers and aftermarket sub, its kinda complicated to choose which harness to get

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

when the local shop bypassed mine they used some kind of scoshe adapter. They only chaged me like $60

something like this (i have no idea if this is the one I have or not, USE ONLY AS REFERENCE FOR NAME BRAND)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...che-SLC-4.html

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

I see, so you have aftermarket HU, original speakers and aftermarket Sub?

What did local shop do? Were they installing new sub to aftermarket HU?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

all the shop did was install some kind of scoshe adapter. I have A.M. HU, components and 2 12's.

here is another thread to check out
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pass-bose.html

I installed everything but the adapter

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

I did rebuild for my sub amp for $100, so no cut out anymore

I found this
http://www.shiftice.com/bose_deck_fix.html

The guy says that after fixing the deck, bose sounds a lot better

Did anybody tried doing this?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

trash blose. get an aftermarket HU it will sound better. your bose speakers are more than likely bad as well (hence them sounding bad)

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)