Getting it running
03-14-2014, 12:50 AM
#1
Getting it running
Recently bought a 99i30 it has the de-k motor swap, it had a fpr and afrc... Do I need these parts back on the car to have it running correctly. You guys might have more info because its dvri30's turbo infiniti. Thanks for any advice... Looking to also meet some members in my area!
03-16-2014, 03:35 PM
#6
03-16-2014, 03:54 PM
#7
I tried to get in contact with him but no luck... This car is the Infiniti I30 in the thread Dvri30's turbo build. I'm willing to drive to him because we're both in V.A. but like I said can't get in touch with him
03-18-2014, 08:21 AM
#9
I've had the name wrong all along its I30dvr its his infiniti I bought but I'm not sure what maf meter I need. I believe it might be a z32 maf but I can't get in contact with him & the guy I bought it from doesn't know $**! about it. It just looked & sounded good to him.Lol. Can I use any Afpr on the car? Any advice will help
03-18-2014, 10:07 AM
#10
Wait hold on a second its a turbo car right? Specs on the car, what turbo, what is it tuned on, size of the injectors etc this would help a lot.
Yes you need an boost friendly AFPR. Or a stock FPR and the Vortech FMU, otherwise you will go into positive vac and your fuel pressure will stop increasing and start decreasing causing a quite dangerous lean situation. You will pop the motor in no time.
Get it running on stock MAF FIRST, THEN switch to Z32 it will solve a lot of guess work and tuning problems.
Also 99s are tricky unless the have been converted to 95-96 or 97-98. If you wanna find out if its been coverted to a earlier year check the O2 sensors, 99s have 5 O2 sensors the earlier years have 3.
But even I dont know the history of that car it did run but i dont know for how long. Boost takes time and patience even if you bought a car from somebody you have to figure out everything that was done to it yourself.
Yes you need an boost friendly AFPR. Or a stock FPR and the Vortech FMU, otherwise you will go into positive vac and your fuel pressure will stop increasing and start decreasing causing a quite dangerous lean situation. You will pop the motor in no time.
Get it running on stock MAF FIRST, THEN switch to Z32 it will solve a lot of guess work and tuning problems.
Also 99s are tricky unless the have been converted to 95-96 or 97-98. If you wanna find out if its been coverted to a earlier year check the O2 sensors, 99s have 5 O2 sensors the earlier years have 3.
But even I dont know the history of that car it did run but i dont know for how long. Boost takes time and patience even if you bought a car from somebody you have to figure out everything that was done to it yourself.
03-18-2014, 10:33 AM
#11
Reading your other thread it sounds like somebody sold you the car after the screwed something up playing around with it then just tried to make a part out what they could and sell the rest of the car. So my suggestion to you would be.
Contact one of the people that makes PnP harnesses(assuming your stock harness has not been hacked) for 4th and 5th gen SurraTT would be a good person to PM he is good at them. And buy an Emanage Ultimate.
Next sort out the fuel issue, either a Nismo AFPR or a Sard Unit will work great, no ebay junk. You also might have to find out if you still have a Walboro in the tank of the car. That will be easy because when a walboro primes it is LOUD. It sounds like a power drill in the fuel tank of the car.
Boost controller of some type, i suggest sticking with a Greddy product so it can be used in sync with the Emanage.
If the Wideband is not still in the car purchase one and install it. Get an Innovate LC-1 or LM-1 they are the most flexible and accurate widebands you can buy.
Go ahead and swap out the spark plugs get a set of NGK BKR6EGPs, i believe those are number 7092 at autozone and etc($2-3 each). GAP THEM very important, Gap them to .35, this will eliminate spark blow out issues.
After this is done pretty much anybody can tune the car its cake at that point. Infact if you the wire the wideband to the Emanage the car can tune itself. So you still have another $600-800 to spend to get it back up and running correctly. Count on spending around $1000 Remember we are not talking about a factory turbo'd car this is aftermarket and boost is very VERY expensive especially on the maxima with our limited aftermarket support.
Contact one of the people that makes PnP harnesses(assuming your stock harness has not been hacked) for 4th and 5th gen SurraTT would be a good person to PM he is good at them. And buy an Emanage Ultimate.
Next sort out the fuel issue, either a Nismo AFPR or a Sard Unit will work great, no ebay junk. You also might have to find out if you still have a Walboro in the tank of the car. That will be easy because when a walboro primes it is LOUD. It sounds like a power drill in the fuel tank of the car.
Boost controller of some type, i suggest sticking with a Greddy product so it can be used in sync with the Emanage.
If the Wideband is not still in the car purchase one and install it. Get an Innovate LC-1 or LM-1 they are the most flexible and accurate widebands you can buy.
Go ahead and swap out the spark plugs get a set of NGK BKR6EGPs, i believe those are number 7092 at autozone and etc($2-3 each). GAP THEM very important, Gap them to .35, this will eliminate spark blow out issues.
After this is done pretty much anybody can tune the car its cake at that point. Infact if you the wire the wideband to the Emanage the car can tune itself. So you still have another $600-800 to spend to get it back up and running correctly. Count on spending around $1000 Remember we are not talking about a factory turbo'd car this is aftermarket and boost is very VERY expensive especially on the maxima with our limited aftermarket support.
03-18-2014, 11:58 AM
#12
getting it running
no the car is n/a. I figure im the fourth owner. the guy i bought it from (digitalqwik) claimed it had a z32 but it was cracked but he still sold it. once all this snow clears i will post pics but the plug for the maf is different than a 4th gen. i compared it to my wifes 97auto
03-18-2014, 12:02 PM
#13
If its NA, then just go back to stock everything, sticking with a Z32 maf is just silly at this point. You dont need an adjustable anything maybe just something to scale those injector on.
03-26-2014, 05:18 PM
#18
Is the PS pump on the engine?
How about the reservoir and lines?
If those are on the car and hooked up, all you need is a belt.
I would think that the A32 PS components are very similar, if not the same. You should be able to swap everything over and be good.
I'll be in RVA this coming weekend, shoot me a PM and I'll come look at it for you. I may even have a few MAF's in my parts pile.....
03-31-2014, 02:08 PM
#20
Whats up members... Made some progress, swapped over power steering lines & reservoir, rewired the stock maf in but still no start... Do I need the Vafc & fpr? I'm getting fuel b cuz I smell it. Not sure what else to do now
04-02-2014, 02:36 PM
#23
Verify that you have spark.
The way I do it is to pull a plug, one on the front bank will do, and hook the coil and stuff up and have someone hit the key.
You should be able to hold the coil assembly close to the valve cover so that it grounds. You should see the spark between the electrode and the other part as the coil discharges its voltage.
Remove, clean, and test your camshaft position sensor, and both crankshaft position sensors. POS, PHASE, and REF.
Remove & clean the ground wires. The negative battery cable, which runs down to a bracket on the gearbox, and the two on the inner timing cover.
I don't thing you really need that VAFC2 to make the engine run. The ECU should take care of that.
Keep at it man. You've made good progress this far. Its only a matter of time.
Last edited by 4thGenTuner; 04-02-2014 at 02:38 PM.
04-02-2014, 03:16 PM
#24
Thanks... I was looking and seen that it has an 01 ecu but the guy left the wires spliced into the ecu for the vafc. Will that interfere with starting? I also connected the extra fuel lines from the Afpr and ran it to the hose coming off the motor... Kinda stuck but not giving up!!!
04-02-2014, 05:13 PM
#26
A intake backfire? Sounds like low fuel as awkward as that sounds, its happened to me a few times. Its either that or a severe timing issue. Make sure the fuel lines are tight and routed correctly and you have fuel of course.
04-02-2014, 06:22 PM
#29
if you are saying the wiring is still there for the vafcII and the guy cut it out then that will screw you up if he installed the vafcII correctly (which it should have been since justin ran it like that I assume). When you install a vafc you have to cut the maf signal wire, so if the guy just ripped it out then the MAF wire is not hooked up to the ecu.
When you put the fourth gen maf in did you copy the wiring of your other fourth gen? Because the wiring on a z32 MAF and A32 MAF are different. You need to make sure you wired it like your stock car is wired.
As for the AFPR, you don't need that on the car to run, but you do need a fuel pressure regulator for it to run properly...does it at least have a stock fpr put back on it?
Did you see the car run before you bought it? I know the guy was advertising it as a running car but it had a transmission problem.
When you put the fourth gen maf in did you copy the wiring of your other fourth gen? Because the wiring on a z32 MAF and A32 MAF are different. You need to make sure you wired it like your stock car is wired.
As for the AFPR, you don't need that on the car to run, but you do need a fuel pressure regulator for it to run properly...does it at least have a stock fpr put back on it?
Did you see the car run before you bought it? I know the guy was advertising it as a running car but it had a transmission problem.
04-02-2014, 07:19 PM
#31
check the maf wire where the vafcII was spliced in, I cleared out some room in my pm box if you need to send me something
04-03-2014, 07:08 AM
#33
It should be obvious if you have a wire at the ecu that is cut. Look at where the afc was wired. If it was wired correctly you only have to cut one wire, the rest you just tie into the wires but don't cut them. Fix that then try to start the car.
If you can post pictures of problem areas with the car (i.e. afc wiring, maf and connectors, etc.) I think we can help you better.
04-03-2014, 07:48 AM
#35
It's hard to understand what you are talking about...three wires are not connected to what? What are they coming from?
If you have the pictures hosted in photobucket then just copy and paste the IMG link in here (I think it's the last link shown to the right of the picture if I remember correctly)
04-03-2014, 09:40 AM
#36
Yeah ended up buying one new, but I see the same wires still on the ecu from the one the guy has... I matched up the wires but upon doing that I found the purple and blue wire not connected but I'm sure it was before he ripped the vafc out
04-03-2014, 12:43 PM
#37
Have you done the set up yet for the VAFCII? i.e. tell it how many cylinders the car has, sensor type, etc...